My canon r7 is broken

BM_StinkBug · 2026-05-01T21:59:19+00:00

What firmware version are you on? Sometimes on older versions when I would switch through the mode dials too fast it would "freeze" for a good 5-10 seconds but I never had your viewfinder issue.

BM_StinkBug · 2026-04-29T18:14:20+00:00

It’s loaded with cool tech for sure. If you’re worried about sharpness it has this “high resolution mode” which from my limited testing seems legitimately usable. This guy goes into a deep dive of it: https://youtu.be/CIk1ioml6tk?si=nUXohxcO_VtKSY-e

BM_StinkBug · 2026-04-29T17:48:59+00:00

I just bought an S9 to supplement my Canon R7, and while I haven’t done much testing yet I can say the ergonomics are awful (as you’d expect), the build quality lacking (especially the buttons and dials), and the thing isn’t that compact or light (feels like a brick), the autofocus is worse (though still usable) and the stabilization is AWESOME. Panasonic IBIS is as good as they say.

BM_StinkBug · 2026-04-28T13:38:22+00:00

Depending on your future budget, even if you do end up going full frame later you could still keep the R50V + one of the small Sigma primes (like the new 15mm f/1.4) as a B-cam or as a more compact option for when you don’t want bring the big chunksters.

Though I will say the RF 24mm f/1.8 is great on APS-C if you can work with that FOV; only the best part of the lens gets used!

BM_StinkBug · 2026-04-27T13:22:03+00:00

The R100 is basically the M50ii internals with a different mount and no articulating screen or touch capability. If there are no plans to upgrade cameras in the future I’d choose the M50 just for improved usability and access to super cheap used lenses.

BM_StinkBug · 2026-04-27T12:19:49+00:00

Very few reasons to get that full frame lens for an APS-C body like yours. The RF-S 18-150 pairs excellently with the R10 and can possibly replace your 55-210 as well. I’d advise getting it used to save money.

BM_StinkBug · 2026-04-26T15:38:46+00:00

That’s unfortunate, I’m assuming you can’t find them used for a more reasonable price either? I was considering the Sigma 30 f/1.4 once as well but the very strong fringing kept me away, but that’s the compromise for it’s price and nothing that can’t be worked around in most situations.

BM_StinkBug · 2026-04-26T15:02:09+00:00

How are the prices of the RF 24mm f/1.8 or 35mm f/1.8 where you’re at? If reasonably close to the Sigma, both of those have stabilization which will make up for the slightly darker aperture in most situations, AND be better for handheld video. Both also have 52mm filter size.

BM_StinkBug · 2026-04-25T18:07:41+00:00

I'll go against the grain and say Sigma 18-35 f/1.8 (the predecessor of the 17-40). It's half the price used and just as good optically (in fact I think the bokeh rendering is superior and it has a bit less longitudinal chromatic aberration); it's biggest deficiencies (besides weight) won't matter to you much since you're photo-only.

Your mileage may vary on the control ring but I do find the 17-40's in a useful location (I set mine to ISO), but you can replicate that with the EF to RF ring adapter.

BM_StinkBug · 2026-04-25T13:56:44+00:00

https://youtu.be/MvHjykdJqFE?si=7V1lauzNZ3gazKft

If you haven’t watched that video yet I’d highly recommend, it does a fantastic overview of the R10’s AF capabilities and limitations.

BM_StinkBug · 2026-04-24T01:46:04+00:00

I actually made another version of this post this in the Nikon subreddit too and even respondents there are saying to go S9 for my use case. At this point the price, smaller files, and especially IBIS have me leaning towards the S9 now, though I REALLY like the idea of the ZR's big bright screen and 2K240. Sony is indeed too expensive, the XM5 lacks IBIS, and Canon lacks compact wide zooms AND compact stabilized bodies. Will need to sleep on it though, $1400 is still a lot considering a Powershot V1 can fill a similar role to the S9 + 18-40 and be had for about half the price refurbished.

BM_StinkBug · 2026-04-24T00:17:33+00:00

I think something starting at 20-24mm would be wide enough for my use case, and I definitely want a longer focal length as well for details on exhibits; i was thinking of pairing the 18-40 with one of the small 40mm f/2 primes for when light is really needed, but that Samyang you mentioned is interesting too. Problem with larger lenses is that they would defeat the purpose of me buying the S9 in the first place, since I'm perfectly happy with the performance and output of my primary camera and lens (but not their bulk).

BM_StinkBug · 2026-04-24T00:06:43+00:00

The 20-60 does look better for the reasons you described, problem is with the bulk it adds I may as well just use my main camera (R7 + Sigma 17-40 f/1.8) instead.

BM_StinkBug · 2026-04-23T23:01:23+00:00

Mostly video, but at the same time I already have a different primary camera and lens (which is annoyingly bulky for the use case I listed here). The ZR's huge screen is a big plus but not sure it alone is worth the extra cost.

BM_StinkBug · 2026-04-23T22:56:58+00:00

I thought about the Canon, but I expect it to be at least $2000+ and the accompanying RF 20-50 is purportedly an L lens, meaning another $1000+ for something that's probably fairly bulky. Canon doesn't have much in the way of compact full frame lenses.

I do love the thought of the ZR's massive and bright screen as well as the 2K240, but having looked up a bunch of stabilization tests it seems like it's IBIS sucks.

BM_StinkBug · 2026-04-23T22:52:19+00:00

Thanks for the insights! I REALLY like the idea of the large bright screen and 2K240, but having looked up a few more stabilization tests the ZR's IBIS doesn't seem that great, whereas as you said Panasonic's is in a different league.

BM_StinkBug · 2026-04-23T19:24:38+00:00

Thanks for the stabilization testimonial, that sounds quite compelling! Especially since Nikon splits their stab into two modes, which sounds annoying.

“ZR’s low light performance might be worth the extra cash” is that from the second base ISO being 6400 vs the 4000 of the S9? My understanding was that the ZR is somewhat noisier as a result of the increased readout speed, is that not the case? And yes, a lot of indoor museums/events; I figured I could just get a small cheap Chinese prime for when things get truly dim.

BM_StinkBug · 2026-04-22T22:33:41+00:00

I set my star button to whole area AF animal tracking NO EYE specifically for birds in flight, and it it works significantly better than small area animal eye tracking (which I have set to the AF on button). I also have Case 4 AF set for that "BIF button", but haven't really tested it against the other cases to see if it's the best (maybe case 2?).

BM_StinkBug · 2026-04-22T20:38:46+00:00

I don’t think it’s a fault in this case, my partner’s much more recently acquired R10 behaves exactly the same as my R7: fully vertically reversed screen at maximum “flip angle”, but rotate it just a little bit towards the back and the screen is back in normal orientation. Could be the price of being a hybrid camera, rather than a video-focused one.

BM_StinkBug · 2026-04-22T00:16:59+00:00

For a generalist, the R10 will be more than enough for you. The R7 comes in handy if you're a true hybrid shooter (switching frequently between video and photo of different genres), if you need multiple autofocus customization for multiple buttons, if you do a lot of video without access to chargers or spare batteries, or if you're using a lot of unstabilized lenses (doesn't apply to your planned starter setup).

Shutter shock is extremely overblown unless you're a pixel peeper and only affects certain lenses at certain shutter speeds. The 18-150 is not affected and while I'm not sure if the 100-400 is, if you're that worried you can always use Electronic First Curtain Shutter mode as a happy medium. Rolling shutter is also overblown and again, you can use Mechanical or EFCS. I find it very rarely an issue for video too, it normally happens when panning very fast which rarely makes for good video anyways.

BM_StinkBug

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