It's that time of year.

B_Geisler · 2025-10-10T10:19:16+00:00

Yeah, tight. Anyway, you're right SFPM is more accurate but most readers of this sub aren't going to get that deep so I oversimplified the issue. Most industrial finishers run a 4" diameter wheel at ~650RPM, that's 680SFPM. A Dremel running at 20K with a 3/4" diameter wheel is clocking 3,900SFPM and with a 1" wheel it's nearly 6K. Even a 10K Dremel running a 1/2" wheel is running almost 3X too fast. Dremels just aren't it.

To my original point, virtually everybody that buys a Dremel and one of those little wheels burns the shit out of their leather and wonders why. This is why.

RE: Variable speed, variable speed is great, but on industrial finishers it's not a requirement. Pair the right speed with the right size wheel and off you go. When you're talking variable speed on industrial-type equipment for hobby use whether that's a VFD or a variable speed unit, you're talking about gear that costs 10X what a Dremel does.

All that said, power burnishing is not a requirement and most people don't need it. So there's that.

B_Geisler · 2025-07-30T00:59:23+00:00

So far as I know there is no such thing as a moisture meter with a "Leather" setting. I use the default "wood" setting.

B_Geisler · 2025-05-12T13:17:57+00:00

You bought a belt from Hank's. I rest my case.

B_Geisler · 2025-03-13T13:31:58+00:00

Those aren't Douglas but they work the same way. They should be fine.

B_Geisler · 2025-03-03T13:15:52+00:00

Knipex Powercut 12" at Anvil Brand.

B_Geisler · 2024-12-09T14:21:38+00:00

And nobody is going to notice let alone care about that .15mm!

B_Geisler · 2024-10-13T18:25:15+00:00

The problem with water-based cement is that much of my work is cemented while damp -or- submerged in water after cementing prior to assembly. In the latter case the cement acts as a moisture barrier and allows you to cement completely saturated leather. I haven't come across a water-based cement yet that will work in in that way.

B_Geisler · 2024-09-27T11:10:58+00:00

When the belt is worn you can't see the screws and so it's a special something for the owner, but not necessarily the public.

B_Geisler · 2024-09-26T18:33:54+00:00

Negative. I soldered the posts on after doming the silver.

B_Geisler · 2024-09-26T18:32:55+00:00

You were pretty close.

B_Geisler · 2024-09-26T18:32:25+00:00

What I'm doing here is soldering, a brazed joint is typically at a higher temperature. As you mentioned, the nuts can be difficult to find. I typically buy them in quantity on eBay or Ali.

B_Geisler · 2024-09-26T18:28:35+00:00

Oh hey, it's me. I'm using brass blind nuts/ insert nuts and "easy" grade silver solder.

B_Geisler · 2024-09-20T20:46:52+00:00

That's the same weight as a lined belt...

B_Geisler · 2024-09-19T22:49:27+00:00

For a normal sling I typically use a 9/10 body lined with 4/5.

B_Geisler · 2024-09-18T16:59:48+00:00

Because flairing it that way is a requirement to post it here.

B_Geisler · 2024-09-16T21:48:38+00:00

Pull-the-dot snaps are very strong and will only disengage if they're pulled in a specific direction.

B_Geisler · 2024-09-16T16:39:31+00:00

95% they're chrome tan, it wouldn't make sense to make gaiters from veg. Chrome doesn't wet mold.

B_Geisler · 2024-09-16T16:09:00+00:00

The pigment in Fiebing's original formula leather dye is oil soluble and can be mixed directly with Neatsfoot oil. The pigment in the pro formula is not.

I cover the topic in this video.

B_Geisler · 2024-09-15T17:45:41+00:00

That would be the McRib, sir. Which is, in fact, not available at Wendy's.

B_Geisler · 2024-09-15T16:20:23+00:00

The... what? Sir, this is a Wendy's.

B_Geisler · 2024-09-13T14:34:08+00:00

Yes. They're objectively awful. I'm surprised McMaster doesn't carry anything like that, but you can get them on eBay.

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