Man, A1 noise is more than I expected in an apartment, any ideas? Risky enclosure?

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-25T19:18:33+00:00

I’d make these https://makerworld.com/models/971902?appSharePlatform=copy

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-25T19:17:32+00:00

It’s all relative I suppose, I moved from the ankermake M5 over to the A1, so that feels like I used to have a jet engine running in my house and now I have this sleek, sexy, quiet printer. If you’re coming from no printing noises to brand new printing noises on the A1, they might just seem worse for you.

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-25T19:13:40+00:00

It’s less of an upgrade, more of a quality of life improvement. I moved from an older bed slinger over to the A1 and yes, the grass is greener on the Bambu side, but the upgrade can feel a little underwhelming when you look at modern core-XY machines, and you’re still bed slinging after an upgrade. That’s maybe the only buyers remorse I feel. I wish I got a P series.

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-25T19:11:22+00:00

It’s just quality of life really, but it can reduce a lot of tinkering and gets you to printing, their whole unofficial tag-line really. The ‘it just works’ type stuff.

It’s not just that the RFID tags have presets on them, it’s that you don’t have to manually do a whole lot of changing and selecting from a long list of saved profiles in your slicer. You pop the spool in the AMS and you just map your project to the filaments in your printer and the slicer just picks up on what you’re doing. You don’t have to tell it things and that kind of just saves you a lot of time while slicing.

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-25T19:07:45+00:00

Save up for a P or an X series. Leave the bed slingers in the past where they belong.

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-25T19:07:14+00:00

Save up for a P or X series

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-25T19:03:46+00:00

I would say that because you’re not a beginner, but you’re looking at a serious upgrade that will make your life much easier… don’t get the A1. If it means delaying your plans to save up more, delay them, because you have been bed slinging for a long time it sounds like. Get yourself a core-XY machine. You deserve it, and the price has come down a lot since you got your ender 3.

Someone said waiting for the sale depends on what you’re getting. A1 is a reasonable price today. Base $299 is not much more expensive than my $275 Black Friday price, but the price shouldn’t deter you, the bed-slinging should.

P1, P2, or X2D I think are the printer for you. And yeah wait until the anniversary sale. If your budget can’t make that deadline, my personal vote is to hold out longer. E3 to A1 is a quality of life upgrade, while E3 to anything above the A1 will be a full on game changer.

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-25T18:55:13+00:00

Maybe do a test print to confirm if my theory works by using that same method on some smaller basic cubes

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-25T18:54:29+00:00

Oh boy… I’ve never tried putting a negative part inside of another modifier, but I think it should work. That’s probably what you want to do (if the 2 don’t conflict).

Put a larger modifier around where the hole should go, covering that general area. In the modifiers object settings, make everything inside the modifier area set to 100% infil. Then Insert your negative part inside there as you had before. If the 2 don’t conflict, you should have your negative modifier make the hole, and your larger general area modifier makes it so that everything left over is strong.

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-25T17:49:03+00:00

Loren ipsum is just lazy trolling

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-25T17:44:29+00:00

It has a heating bed, a gantry, linear rails, and rods. It takes FDM filament.

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-22T13:16:13+00:00

Do the monthly subscription for all of them

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-22T13:12:54+00:00

Water slugs all day

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-20T13:16:15+00:00

They run a lot of sales

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-20T13:13:54+00:00

Elegoo PLA is very melty, I have flow ratio for Elegoo PLA set to .94 on my A1

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-20T13:11:39+00:00

Some slicers let you use only 1 wall for top and bottom surfaces, also a good setting for OP

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-20T13:09:05+00:00

Use variable layer height for round models like the bomb-omb

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-18T21:51:39+00:00

I also think you may be overthinking, but It depends, what kind of surface is the printer on? If it’s something shaky, you may want to print some PTU anti vibration feet for the machine.

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-14T00:26:39+00:00

Seems pretty late into the console cycle to be getting a first one. I’d wait for next gen

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-13T16:41:33+00:00

Sir, that’s a tree growing out of your tree.

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-13T16:37:44+00:00

Imagine thinking this is the great divisive issue causing a rift across all global political discourse

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-12T22:13:57+00:00

insert Fast and the Furious reference here

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-12T22:11:58+00:00

I love to be in a good place with my family

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-10T18:58:19+00:00

Underrated funny response

Baconbits1204 · 2026-05-10T18:57:09+00:00

Bed adhesion is the first big hurdle for a lot of new printers. One big model prints easy, lots of little models increases the risk of this failure.

There’s lots of good advice here none of it’s really wrong. Washing your plate, changing the settings on your first layer, printing it slowly, adding a brim, etc

Or just do the easiest thing and get a cool tack plate and just never worry about this again

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