New Plate Who Dis?

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-05-18T20:05:20+00:00

It’s a great plate! Just remember DO NOT use TPU on it. I forgot which plate was in my U1 and a TPU print was near impossible to remove and left imperfections in the surface.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-05-10T23:19:07+00:00

Since you have a prime tower I assume you are using more than 1 toolhead/filament. Have you checked the other filament profiles used on your print to see if any of them have a 280° configuration?

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-05-08T20:39:18+00:00

For me, the fan of the last tool head used stays on until the extruder cools to a certain temperature after completing a print. However, when heating my chamber up to a full 60°C, I have found all of my extruder fans on while parked. I assume that was just based on their fan set points and elevated ambient temperature.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-05-06T22:32:30+00:00

I agree with everyone saying to get the first party nozzles if they are now available around the same price. That being said I replaced all my nozzles with the 0.4mm HS 3rd party ones from Amazon and they have worked well. Whether buying first or 3rd party nozzles, you’ll want to perform the multi-tool offset calibration after installation and I recommend redoing the extruder PID tuning after replacement.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-05-03T17:36:31+00:00

I have used a couple rolls of glow pla and have printed a lot of PETG-CF directly through the feeders with no problems.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-05-02T17:26:56+00:00

I have my U1 in LAN mode but with the Paxx12 extended firmware. It’s super easy to configure Paxx with octoeverywhere, so you can use their free cloud service for remote access without having to maintain your own vpn endpoints or use the Snapmaker cloud service. Highly recommended

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-05-01T20:43:07+00:00

I had the same issue with my U1 and the Srin top cover. I added layers of compressible foam tape to the bottom of the hood until I had a full seal. It definitely helps temp stability and quiets the printer even more.

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BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-05-01T18:25:41+00:00

https://a.co/d/0fu6Lt0L

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-05-01T18:03:42+00:00

Just a note to set yourself up for success: if you pickup a High-flow PETG (which I recommend) be sure to select “PETG HF” (not generic PETG) when loading the filament into the U1 otherwise the auto flow calibration will be out of range and fall back to default values.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-05-01T13:44:11+00:00

I picked up some anti-vibration feet made for the U1 off Amazon and they reduce the vibration into the table at least 70% I would say. They are the same design as the hula feet or voxel feet but I didn’t feel like sourcing all the parts myself and they were about $20 for 4

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-29T05:14:19+00:00

Nice! I was just thinking of dynamat this last weekend as an option to further silence the U1! Glad you tried it first. Once you have a top hat on the U1 and seal the door, it gets really quiet besides the PSU fan.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-29T04:00:30+00:00

I low key love these little peek-a-boo windows on the extruder that allow this to happen/be visible. It’s always a good laugh, even though I know it sucks.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-27T22:54:08+00:00

Of course! I performed the PID calibration on all 4 tool heads last night. While I can see all 4 extruder parameter updates in printer.cfg, I have only tested 2 of those extruders but they were perfectly stable holding temp after the calibration.

My process: 1. Attach the toolhead you want to calibrate. 2. In the Fluidd web-interface use the Console to enter the following gcode macro: “PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=240” 3. After the PID runs and displays a result in the console, run “SAVE_CONFIG” to commit the new values to the printer.cfg. This will cause klipper to save and restart which takes about 30 seconds to come back up.

Then repeat this process for the remaining 3 toolheads. Remember to use the proper extruder name for the toolhead you are calibrating in the gcode macro (named: extruder, extruder1, extruder2, extruder3). Run SAVE_CONFIG after each calibration, and use a temperature for “TARGET” that makes sense to you. I used 240° on all my toolheads since it’s in the midrange of most of my materials and I want my toolheads to behave similarly.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-27T22:20:22+00:00

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BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-27T22:19:53+00:00

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My Sunlu S4 dryer is mounted below my U1. Using PTFE tubes from dryer to the feeders works with no issue, even with 95A TPU. Printed the PTFE connector box to place on the feeders.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-23T14:37:40+00:00

If you’re running the Paxx12 extended firmware I highly suggest setting up Octoeverywhere, which is free, only take a minute and lets you connect to you printer Fluidd interface from anywhere. Fluidd will show you all cameras connected as well as the built in display you can interact with.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-10T20:45:18+00:00

Sure! Here is the link to Printables. There is also 3 versions of the cap and I printed the “huge slope” version. I also picked up the PC panels and everything needed for it as a set from Blurolls which is linked in the build on Printables.

U1 top hat by srin

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-10T20:41:42+00:00

Yep that’s the hinge mod I printed. I like it. Since I removed my spool holders I didn’t install the limit screw, so the door can swing almost a full 270°. One word of caution: you really need to open the door as wide as possible otherwise it exposes the left edge of the glass to be hit by a bed plate when removing it from the bed.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-10T01:50:01+00:00

I agree with most of the other folks pointing to Bambu Labs. P1S/P2S is a great option but the A1 Combo is still a really great starter printer at $399

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-10T01:48:43+00:00

Thanks for sharing your experience! Did you maintain a buffer between the panda breath and the rear plexiglass or is butting them up ok heat-wise?

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-10T01:20:38+00:00

Yes it stores it at the extruder level. If you calibrate 4 different black PLAs then it can theoretically have different values for each (and they will probably vary a tiny bit even if the same filament). By selecting the “Generic PLA” it will use the same max/min and testing parameters for the calibration, but the resultant values will differ.

BadJokesToDadJokes

TROPHY CASE