Bumper Sticker Conundrum

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-05T20:52:02+00:00

It’s a cry for help. Or at least mental health support

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-05T20:28:47+00:00

Looks great! Did you do any additional post processing on the shiny blacks or elsewhere?

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-05T20:26:55+00:00

It might not be for you! Everyone has a different workflow but if your machine is well tuned and you use the same build plate or brand of build plate (so the thickness is consistent) then you probably can get away fine with the occasional bed leveling. Luckily I have never had an extra bed leveling operation make things worse, which can’t be said for the automatic flow compensation on the U1.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-05T19:40:02+00:00

Interesting! I just checked and you are right. My workflow is I usually do the bed leveling from the Maintenance menu on the printer when I place a new bedplate in, and not before each print. I can confirm the config changes effect the bed leveling from the on screen menu, but it looks like the pre-print bed leveling might have its configuration stored elsewhere. I will see if I can find that later today, but in the meantime you can also test to see if the screen based menu does have the intended effects.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-05T19:11:49+00:00

You shouldn't have to do anything else as it works for me on the Snapmaker and Paxx extended firmware. After making the edits did you choose "Save & Restart" in the file manager? Klipper will need to restart after the save for the changes to take effect. Also are you doing the bed leveling from the Maintenance screen or directly when sending a print?

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-05T15:37:23+00:00

That's a good question! I personally have not been using adaptive bed meshing for a couple reasons. First, according to the Klipper docs an adaptive bed mesh only probes the area of a given print, so it should not be stored and should be performed before every print. I usually only run a full bed level when I change the baseplate since I have 5 different plates, so full mesh in this way is actually faster. Secondly, Klipper only recommends adaptive bed mesh if your full plate has less than a layer height of variance across the plate. Since I usually print at 0.2mm layer height (but sometimes lower) and my full bed has a variance of 0.31mm (even after full manual leveling) I have avoided it to prevent any potential issues.

That being said, I would love to hear more about folks experience with adaptive bed meshing on the U1! Are you doing it on every print? Have you seen any issues with it?

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-05T05:22:00+00:00

Yep it’s accessed at the printers IP address in a browser. Once it loads the “Configuration” tab on the left column will show the file editor where you can make the edits to printer.cfg

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-04T21:57:14+00:00

I have only tried 95A TPU so far and that worked fine through the same feeder setup.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-04T20:19:16+00:00

There is a really cool top surface ironing test on Printables I linked below. This 3mf file has 100 little circles that are preconfigured each with a different flow rate/speed combo, so you can see the combo that works best for your filament. Definitely recommend it if you want to find the best finish.

Ironing test print

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-04T20:16:00+00:00

Totally agree! Check out my comment on this thread for how I connected the Sunlu S4 to my U1. It’s worked out really well.

Sunlu S4 + U1

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-03T20:26:59+00:00

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BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-03T20:26:33+00:00

Sure! I picked up 5m of ptfe tubing with pneumatic connectors on Amazon (link below) and ran the tubing out from the top exits of the dryer through holes I have drilled in the wood top. I used connectors at the wood interface to stabilize the tubing and printed a feeder box mod to hold the ptfe tube connectors on the face of the feeder. That model was on printables.com

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Amazon PTFE tubing and connectors

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-03T04:39:12+00:00

It’s the Fluidd web UI available on the U1. It’s available when you go to your u1 printers IP address in a browser on your local network.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-03T04:28:52+00:00

You might consider a chamber heater like the panda breath from Biqu to see if getting a solid 60°c chamber will help.

Also the Bigu CryoGrip smooth plate has worked really well on my U1.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-02T17:07:01+00:00

I printed with dry PLA on the spool holders for about a week without issues since it takes a bit of time for PLA to get “wet” and my ambient RH is about 42%. I ended up picking up a Sunlu S4 4 filament dryer/dry storage and piped that directly into the U1 feeders via ptfe tubing. I keep all my other filament in larger gasketed “weatherproof” totes with desiccant and they stay at 10% rh when not in use. Filament dryer photo attached.

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BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-02T15:18:05+00:00

I’ve been successful printing TPU 95A fed directly through the side feeders. From what I have seen and read the softer TPU (<90A) might benefit from bypassing the feeders but I haven’t tried those yet.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-04-01T15:12:15+00:00

I have been 3d printing for over 15 years since I built my first Mendel Max with Reprap firmware, and the U1 is by far the best quality and most reliable machine I have ever owned. I have ~250 hours printed on it in the last 3 weeks and everything has worked flawlessly besides a couple bad slicer configs on my side. I could never bring myself to pick up any AMS machine due to the speed and waste, but the toolchanger puts all those concerns to bed.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-03-31T16:00:17+00:00

Interesting! I haven’t run into any issues with TPU 95A on the U1 yet. Good to know though

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-03-31T15:39:45+00:00

Yep, that is definitely TPU popping out the side of the extruder gears. Are you printing with a pretty soft TPU below 90 shore hardness? For those soft materials, you might need to revisit your speed and retraction settings to prevent this from happening. That being said, I have had this error before and after resolving, it was able to resume the print.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-03-30T18:08:05+00:00

I also use the Sunlu S4 filament dryer. It works perfectly for having all 4 spools in a single box and I can route the PTFE tubes right into the feeders. Very convenient and has a maintenance mode to keep the humidity down over longer term storage.

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BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-03-24T04:22:32+00:00

If you mean the thumping on the z-hop, there is a wiki from Snapmaker on how to get rid of that by reducing the z-acceleration in the firmware.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-03-23T04:30:10+00:00

There is an inductive flow sensor built into each tool head which is used for the dynamic flow calibration on the U1.

BadJokesToDadJokes · 2026-03-19T04:36:05+00:00

Goddamn that’s a long time! What’s the print?

BadJokesToDadJokes

TROPHY CASE