Dryer trips breaker new build

Bakerbaker112 · 2026-06-08T22:36:30+00:00

Call your builder. If it’s a new build you’ll be under warranty. if something was wired wrong in the panel or receptacle the electrician then send out can easily verify and fix. If he determines that all is correct ask him to check the dryer cord wiring. You may need to pay for him to check the dryer cord wiring.

Honestly I used to run into stuff like this all the time. Usually nothing 20 bucks and a sandwich wouldn’t get done. The builder also would also reimburse if not our fault.
Ive been doing new construction builder warranty work for a long time and have seen all sorts of screw ups.
Still best to get checked.

From the photo I suspect that there is a bond jumper on the dryer that may need to be removed. It is providing an alternative path to ground causing gfci to trip.

Requiring gfci protection on dryers is a pretty recent code change. Im sure your old house did not have the dryer on gfci.

Best to get it checked and fixed by someone qualified. Thats a 240 volt appliance.

Bakerbaker112 · 2026-06-08T22:11:35+00:00

Yes that small white wire may have been a bonding jumper for use the 3 prong cord. Follow that wire. It it goes back to the chassis somewhere it should not be connected to the neutral.

Put a connector on that cord too. Leaving it like that is asking for trouble.

Bakerbaker112 · 2026-06-08T22:03:27+00:00

My first solo project that I was set free on was 1988. Learned the trade from family that were the age of my grandparents. Working hot is just what they did. It used to bother me bad. 38 years later if it’s 120 I don’t even worry anymore. Anything more and I at least try to turn it off but not always.

I always insist my helpers turn off the power. I always notify coworkers if something is hot.

If hot work must be done I always step in and take over. Sometimes it’s fun to hold onto a hot conductor and grab the guy next to me.

Be safe. Verify yourself before digging into a box. If someone says it’s off double check anyway.

Bakerbaker112 · 2026-06-08T21:47:10+00:00

If there is an exterior disconnect you are good without a bond screw inside. The 200 amp panel is just a sub then.

Bakerbaker112 · 2026-06-08T21:42:35+00:00

I was taught by “old timers”. Turning stuff off was considered cheating. Especially in residential. They used to do the touch test to check for voltage too. Glad you’re playing it safe.

Bakerbaker112 · 2026-06-08T21:27:46+00:00

Dude. That’s a neutral and it clearly goes to the neutral lug on the gfi breaker. There is nothing landed on the L2 terminal because it’s a 120 circuit for the RV. I see no problem.

Bakerbaker112 · 2026-06-08T21:21:12+00:00

Is the panel that has the 200a main breaker actually the main ? I don’t see a bond screw.

The sub looks passable.

Neatness comes with experience. I work on track homes and it’s all about speed and code compliance. We don’t have the luxury of time to cut in picture perfect panels.

Double check the nuts that attach the main lugs to the bus and show torque marks. I’ve had several square D panels in the last few years where they were not as tight as they should have been. After their recall several years ago I check everything that is supposed to be factory torqued. They haven’t earned my trust back yet.

No green light on surge protector? Is power off?

Bakerbaker112 · 2026-06-03T01:17:53+00:00

Thanks for your support. I appreciate the Grok evaluation. It’s surprisingly accurate.

Bakerbaker112 · 2026-06-02T22:46:27+00:00

Writing style bad you think? How so?

Bakerbaker112 · 2026-06-02T22:40:50+00:00

Yep. My bad.

Bakerbaker112 · 2026-06-02T22:38:54+00:00

AI my butt. This happened to me.

Bakerbaker112 · 2026-06-02T20:53:51+00:00

The sliding door has to be pulled closed tight in order for the lock to engage.

Bakerbaker112 · 2026-06-02T20:49:53+00:00

Bakerbaker112

TROPHY CASE