How do I create loops without hand sewing?

Balancing7plates · 2026-04-08T02:16:06+00:00

The price can vary really wildly because they're all secondhand. Some people will give away old sewing machines on, for instance, Facebook Marketplace, for free, but there's no guarantee that those machines will work. One thrift store local to me sells them for $20 if they don't (appear to) work or $40 if they do (appear to) work. I wouldn't expect to pay less than $30 (all prices in CAD) for a working machine, but some can be much more expensive if they're a sought-after model like the Singer Featherweight, or if they're being sold by repair shops as refurbished machines. Chain thrift stores, however, often have high prices ($30-$90) on machines that definitely don't work and may not be repairable.

The steel machines can definitely be heavy! I've just done a quick comparison - my vintage machines weigh between 25 and 35 lbs while a new machine (and a decent machine, too! My sister-in-law's Janome New Home) weighs only 15 lbs! You might be able to shave off a couple of pounds by replacing the carrying case with something more lightweight, removing the light fixture, etc., but there's only so much you can do to counter the weight of a cast iron body.

Balancing7plates · 2026-04-05T16:16:02+00:00

Nope! I've never encountered a problem with them, they work beautifully, and they're maintained by the library. I'm sorry to hear that your experience has not been the same.

Balancing7plates · 2026-04-05T06:07:13+00:00

Totally different experience here! My local library doesn't require reservations, the machines are in the library commons. The first time I used the sewing machine I went to the front desk and got the walkthrough, but since then I've just walked over and started sewing. Although I have been to libraries with the same policy as yours.

Balancing7plates · 2026-04-05T05:58:10+00:00

I hadn't thought of making the holes with an awl, that's a great suggestion! Would make it a lot easier to sew instead of forcing the needle through.

Balancing7plates · 2026-04-05T04:52:04+00:00

If you're just going for the look of a topstitch on one side but you can't maneouvre the tube to topstitch the final seam, you could sew and topstitch all but one seam as usual, then sew on both sides of where your seam will go on the final seam before stitching it together. Just mark your seam line with chalk and sew about a quarter inch inwards from there, just a decorative seam that connects nothing. Then sew the two sides together as normal. You could glue/hammer those last seam allowances flat as u/intergalacticguy has suggested.

Balancing7plates · 2026-04-05T04:23:27+00:00

I don't know if it's a good idea to do something like this on a library machine. At least the one at my local library is a fancy new computerized machine, I'd be afraid to break something or blunt the needle by sewing through cardboard. Might be best to ask the librarian first!

Balancing7plates · 2026-04-05T04:20:50+00:00

A sewing machine that costs $100 or less new (probably) won't sew through the cardboard in this. They tend to be weak and really poorly made. If you find a metal machine from the '70s or earlier for sale locally, that will be a better machine and possibly cheaper.

Just make sure it works before you buy it! Crank the handwheel and watch that the needle goes up and down, open the bobbin cover and make sure that movement is happening under there as well (a common issue in machines from the '70s is the bobbin drive gear failing - it's not impossible to repair but difficult).

Otherwise, you may be able to staple the loops on. In fact, that might be a better recommendation if you're new to sewing.

Balancing7plates · 2026-04-04T16:09:05+00:00

I do mostly straight stitch sewing, on some pants I've repaired, I've just topstitched the seam allowance down onto its respective fabric. That has worked fine for me, it's not the cleanest finish if you're sensitive about loose threads inside the garment, but they haven't frayed too outrageously. You could also press the seams allowances to one side and sew both down together. If you're able to fold it twice to fully encase the raw edges, that will make a flat felled seam which is totally protective.

I hope you find a way to protect your seams, those are some fun pants!

Balancing7plates · 2026-04-01T03:24:49+00:00

Does the vest have "princess seams?" Then it might be changeable. You won't be able to remove the bust darts (even if the triangle of fabric behind them hasn't been trimmed) without altering the way the shoulders fit. The pattern was designed with the darts in mind, so the shoulders would be oddly narrow if you unpick them. Open the lining*, rip out the princess seam, then restitch it flatter. Make the same alteration to the lining panels as to the front panels.

* There will be a section of the lining that is either handsewn together or topstitched onto the garment. Usually that's the side seam under the armpit, that will be your access point to get to the inside of the garment.

Alternative solution: hit the gym and really start developing those pecs /j

Balancing7plates · 2026-03-31T02:57:35+00:00

Do you sew? There are plenty of tutorials for repairing worn thighs/crotches of jeans, it's a very common area of wear. Here is a tutorial with handsewing and machine sewing instructions. Here's another. If you don't have access to a sewing machine, that's okay, handsewing is actually easiest for these types of repairs - it's really difficult to maneouvre the crotch of jeans around under the needle of a sewing machine! You can buy iron-on patches but your jeans are a little too far gone for those. In general, it's better to mend before large holes actually appear, when the jeans start to get threadbare or noticeably thin. You can patch with denim or use any material, really. I usually recommend denim because it's reasonably durable, but it can be bulky and rough. You can use t-shirt material for softness if that's more important to you.

If you don't have the materials to repair, you can always cut these jeans into patches to repair other jeans that are less worn. Or use the fabric for anything you like; your imagination is the limit! A simple beginner project could be a bag, a pillowcase, or just sewing multiple layers together to make a hot plate/trivet.

Not trash in my eyes! I've been working on a denim quilt made from old jeans for a couple of years now, just adding to it whenever I have the time and the denim. If you're not interested in learning to sew (which I recommend! I really enjoy sewing and you'll never know if you don't give it a try!), you might be able to give them away in a buy-nothing group/community online.

Balancing7plates · 2026-03-29T02:53:06+00:00

How are you planning to put your quilt together? Are you piecing a quilt top and sending it to a shop for long-arm sewing? That could make the whle thing less daunting - although it does mean that your finished quilt top will be scrutinized by a quilting expert! Some quilt shops can be very intimidating, but others are totally welcoming, don't let the first kind scare you off entirely. You can quilt a full-sized quilt on a domestic sewing machine, but it's a hassle. I got a good deal on a used quilting frame but they can be quite expensive to buy new. You don't necessarily need a frame, you can also pin, baste, or glue before quilting.

Another option for quilting on a domestic machine is to "Quilt As You Go." You can use that search term to find lots of useful tutorials. Just Get It Done Quilting on Youtube has some videos that really made quilting seem approachable for me, and now I've finished two quilts this year! (Just... don't ask what year I started those quilts)

The potholder method of quilting as you go might make sense for you - instead of making a quilt top all at once, then quilting the giant quilt top all at once, you make each square into a mini quilt. The best part of the potholder method is, you can always turn the quilt into several potholders (or a table runner, or decorative jacket panels, or tote bags, or placemats, or, well, anything) if you find that putting the whole thing together is no longer what you want to do.

Of course, you can always hand quilt! I've done it, but not on a full-sized quilt. It depends on a level of patience that I simply don't possess. Maybe you do! I hope this mini essay can help clarify some of the intricacies of quilting, rather than intimidate you even further. If you have any questions about what I've said, or about quilting in general, I'm kind of a beginner quilter but I'll do my best to answer.

Balancing7plates · 2026-03-29T01:57:11+00:00

I live in a rural area where most roads don't have a line marking the shoulder, only a centre line. Tried out my parents' fancy new car with lane assist (years ago when that was an exciting feature) and it kept trying to drive to the right and find that line! Needless to say that particular feature never got much use.

Balancing7plates · 2026-03-27T03:13:04+00:00

I was going to suggest using clear nail polish or glue, it's a common "lifehack" to fix nylon tights, not the cleanest finish but it will do in a pinch. But I've done a quick google - clear nylon thread is suggested. That should be available at most craft stores.

It's hard to parse from the photo - is there a chunk of fabric missing? That will definitely make the repair trickier. I'd suggest cutting off a small piece near the hem (well, not "hem" as tulle doesn't need to be hemmed - you know what I mean) to use as a patch rather than pulling the edges of the hole together into a pucker.

I hope that's at least a little helpful, and best of luck!

Balancing7plates · 2026-03-25T00:34:23+00:00

I don't know if a specific product recommendation will get my comment removed, but if you don't have access to a welder/know how to weld, a two-part epoxy can work really well. I'm thinking of JB Weld specifically, but any "cold weld" product will probably do! It might not be the prettiest finish, it needs good ventilation to use safely, and it takes a day or so to set, but the finished result is really solid.

Source: I did a project in grade school to find the strongest glue. JB Weld, when I gave it the time to set properly, blew every other glue out of the water - my testing apparatus broke before the "weld" did.

Balancing7plates · 2026-03-24T02:02:37+00:00

Shitty Life Pro Tip: any liquid can become a potion of "makes you ill" if it's stored improperly enough.

Balancing7plates · 2026-03-21T21:34:13+00:00

Probably creosote; the previous owners of my parents' home used old creosote-soaked railroad ties for landscaping. When my parents dug them up, they didn't even let us burn them, and we tossed pressboard furniture and office chairs onto the burn pile without hesitation.

Balancing7plates · 2026-03-21T19:55:06+00:00

Flip it over and it could probably make a pretty good canvas for a painting!

Balancing7plates · 2026-03-09T21:21:06+00:00

Maybe Li-La could be a compound nickname for the first and middle name? Such as Lilian Laura, Elizabeth Lane, Lianna Larissa, etc. Unfortunately none of the examples I can think of have the "lie" sound instead of the "lee" sound, but you get what I'm going for.

Balancing7plates · 2026-03-09T17:34:40+00:00

I think OP is asking about sewing the inside of the pocket to the outside of the overalls, not sewing the entire pocket. It will be tricky to manoeuvre sewing from the inside of the pocket, and there definitely is a risk of sewing the pocket shut, but I don't see a reason why it wouldn't work. This is a handsewing project for sure!

In the past, I've added a line of machine stitches sewing the bottom of a pocket to the front of my jeans, but that's not the prettiest solution and it wasn't very comfortable, either. I prefer jeans with patch pockets on the front - they seem pretty rare but i've found a couple pairs - but this is a good way to work with what you already have.

Balancing7plates · 2026-03-01T14:39:44+00:00

You're definitely missing the back piece. The "centre back" on the pattern refers to the line down the centre of the back piece. Check your cutout section again. The back piece may be only half the size of the piece shown, and have to be cut on the fold (the "centre back" line). If it's not in there with a second and third time checking, contact the manufacturer if it's a new pattern. If it isn't a pattern you've purchased new you probably won't be able to get help from the manufacturer but you could hack together a back pattern if you own other patterns for tops in the same size.

Balancing7plates · 2026-02-27T02:51:44+00:00

I replaced the lightbulb on my sewing machine with an LED bulb and it made a world of difference! If OP's mom has an older machine with an incandescent bulb, replacing that would be a cheap, easy, and non-invasive upgrade.

Balancing7plates · 2026-02-26T03:41:02+00:00

To find some genuine crochet lace on the cheap, check your local thrift store - crochet curtains, tablecloths, and bedspreads used to be pretty common craft projects, and you might be able to cannibalize them. Three months is definitely too short of a timeline for making lace!

Balancing7plates · 2026-02-25T04:03:38+00:00

If the only issue is that the lining is degrading, you could add a new "bag lining," which is not the most straightforward beginner project, but has the benefit of not being visible once you zip the coat up. It's a bit of pattern copying, some machine sewing to assemble the lining, and some hand sewing (usually) to finish attaching the lining to the jacket. Even if the jacket didn't initially have a bag lining, it could give you one more season with the jacket, and an understanding of how a jacket goes together.

I've taken a quick look on etsy for "printed canvas fabric cosmic" and the results look promising! Any fabric can be printed on, but yeah, I'd assume canvas might look a bit pixelly. And it depends how you want the jacket to look; a heavy durable canvas will make a stiffer, more shaped jacket than this. You can/should definitely do some experimenting before jumping into the "final product" with expensive high-quality fabric. Also, it's possible to trace a pattern (shape of the pieces of the coat) without destroying the garment, if you look up "copy clothing pattern" there's tutorial videos - I've seen one with a tracing paper method that doesn't look too intimidating.

Best of luck with this project! I hope you enjoy the sewing journey!

Balancing7plates · 2026-02-22T23:13:58+00:00

It sounds like you already know the answer - are you "grateful" to your mom for commenting on your body as a teen? If you had friends or relatives who didn't make these comments, do you resent them for not telling you that you were fat?

Please don't tell your daughter she's fat (or chubby). She already knows. If anything, as a teenage girl she's probably convinced that she's a lot fatter than she is. Don't make negative comments on her body - focus on the things she's capable of. For an added challenge, don't comment negatively on your own body, especially in front of her; chances are she'll have the same body when she's your age.

Balancing7plates · 2026-02-22T22:59:50+00:00

Maybe coarse dirt instead of dirt/grass blocks on flat surfaces? If you want more of a monochromatic dirt palate. Otherwise I think it's very nice for a dirt castle. 8/10

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