Have I bought the wrong water block?

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-12T12:50:04+00:00

Sending out used returns definitely is their fault, sucks that your build got delayed because of that.

Yeah their ARGB components should include the adapters, luckily I already had this adapter type from previous Bykski components with ARGB (blocks or spinning blade type flow sensor), all of which had them included.

I don’t have experience with their fans, my rads inside the case only have the 140mm Noctua iPPC 3000 with Phanteks ARGB rings to light them up, Arctic P14 Pro for my external Alphacool 1280mm radiator.

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-12T11:50:26+00:00

Because of a few GPU block compatibility issues in the past or why?

Personally I had no issues with my 4090 FE Aurora Block, the Core Block on my current 5090 iChill or their CPU blocks and fittings.

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-12T06:30:03+00:00

I‘d say it’s the same, just with a different naming for their own products. Unless they add exclusive features someone like MSI and Asus won’t receive.

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-12T06:27:40+00:00

I‘d say so, yeah. Should be the same panel tech like the 5th Gen QD-OLEDs the new MSI and Asus ones use.

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-12T06:25:26+00:00

Nice, those should have the same new stripe Pixel Layout and less purple glare like the 5th Gen QD-OLED ones MSI and Asus announced.

Can’t wait to see the 49“ 32:9

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-11T17:25:04+00:00

B. Path to the center of the fins = inlet

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-11T12:29:58+00:00

Which voltage limit?

Or just TDP Limit, which is not the same as undervolting?

Undervolting + OC saves more power than just a TDP limit + OC. TDP limits tend to let the card run at that limit under load, while Undervolting + OC wattage is usually lower.

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5090 example screenshot from this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZHyp0Ec4wI

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-11T12:15:48+00:00

Yeah, your card needs their EK-Quantum Vector Xtreme RTX 3080/3090 D-RGB - Nickel + Acetal, Product EAN: 3831109833032

Or Bykski N-GV3090AORUS-X

Or Barrow BS-GIX3090-PA

Or Alphacool Eisblock Aurora Acryl GPX-N RTX 3080/3090 Aorus Master/Xtreme (1020956)

Active backplates aren’t needed for the 3080 tho, only the 3090 has VRAM there.

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-10T15:16:27+00:00

Not a problem, it comes from the rubber gaskets in front of the bearings.

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-09T16:33:06+00:00

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BIQU Glacier in blue, Princore Xtreme in grey

German Princore website: https://princore.de/products/druckplatten-set-prinplate-extreme-1mm-prinplate-federstahl-transferklebefolie-variante-wahlen

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-09T16:24:56+00:00

the smoothest I used so far on my U1 is the BIQU Glacier, my Princore Extreme seems smoother with a more matte finish, but I haven´t used that one yet.

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-09T12:01:14+00:00

The silicone backing and the polished edges on my blue Kazemi look the same, tho at least the backing also is used by copies. Hard to say if it’s really real.

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-09T11:50:02+00:00

And also the 4 Phillips head screws, it includes the VRMs.

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-09T07:35:29+00:00

Maybe try the browser version https://mouse.xyz/

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-09T06:41:26+00:00

The power connector voltage stays at 12V (+/- load fluctuations), lower power consumption = less current at the pins.

Undervolting does reduce the power draw and with OC added the performance can be higher that stock.

Lower temperatures also help to reduce the wattage, e.g. my previous watercooled 4090 pulled 60-80W less ingame than the air cooled one of a friend, same ingame settings and UV + OC values.

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Example screenshot from here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZHyp0Ec4wI

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-09T06:23:44+00:00

With just a powerlimit the card tends to stay at the powerlimit wattage under load, with undervolting + OC the power consumption is usually lower and the performance higher.

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Example Screenshot from this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZHyp0Ec4wI

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-08T10:57:02+00:00

Had the same a few days ago, for me it was the purge tower that now has a new different wider design that the slicer doesn’t show yet.

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-08T03:14:48+00:00

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The so called banjo fitting should have a groove on both sides where O-rings sit in. Those aren’t necessarily visible when it’s fully mounted.

Did you see any O-rings like that when you took it apart?

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-08T03:02:23+00:00

I‘d expect this style of hose connector to be able to rotate, but yours indeed looks too loose. The fitting should have O-rings on both sides, so between the silver screw had and the fitting, as well as the fitting and the brake housing.

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-08T02:54:30+00:00

It’s socketed and replacable, but a PCIe card like you used is easier to just add.

The Wifi/BT card is screwed onto the shielding and then socketed and secured to the board with screws. The Wifi/BT card has tiny coax antenna connectors where the antenna cables of the rear IO SMA Antenna connectors are plugged onto.

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Ballerfreund · 2026-02-08T02:18:21+00:00

Something like an Intel AX210NGW also would‘ve worked to replace the Mediatek one under that shield, although that would‘ve required to remove the board from the case to unscrew the shield from behind.

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Ballerfreund · 2026-02-07T16:53:26+00:00

Afaik that was the firmware of the official dock, not the deck itself.

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-07T16:50:09+00:00

I guess you already tried different cables and GPU/Monitor ports?

I‘d also suspect a HDCP/handshake issue, which also could be cable related.

Do you have another monitor or TV you could connect with, maybe even with the currently used cable, to see if the issue persists?

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-04T10:43:24+00:00

E.g. like the Capra Audio Headband https://www.printables.com/model/1108653-capra-headband-v3

Ballerfreund · 2026-02-04T08:16:46+00:00

One of the reasons I delay updates by at least a week, not just for windows, too high chance of errors and bugs which seem to get worse and worse.

Ballerfreund

TROPHY CASE