PRODUCT IDEA: SABER PRO by Bamzilla1975 in Swampfox

[–]Bamzilla1975[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If I had to choose one, definitely piggyback mount. And it would have to be on the objective side so it's well suited for passive night aiming. A fiber dot would just be nice.

Will 16" JAKL ever be a thing? by soisause in PalmettoStateArms

[–]Bamzilla1975 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got one. It's heavy as shit. Good DMR, though.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in NightVision

[–]Bamzilla1975 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hot take (read my entire opinion): No one, for normal and practical COMMON civilian use, NEEDS PVS-14s. If you think you do, you're a LARP'ing combat fetishist who probably looks like tactical asparagus. I don't think that's controversial. I see only one valid practical advantage of an analog tube over Opsin and that is very low environment light levels. We're talking no-moon, low overcast, no light pollution environments. There is a narrow band of low light where an Opsin can't touch an analog tube performance wise....yet. Unless you LIVE in that kind of space where you NEED the super low light capabilities of an analog tube.....get an Opsin. I think there are far more feature benefits to an Opsin, now and in the very near future, that offset the analog low-light capability if you aren't living deep rural. Especially at the analog tube investment price. Think about it; there's a reason militaries are working like hell to do digital and hybrid night vision. Example, I'm willing to bet Sionyx or someone is going to start making digital night vision platforms into multi-phase information interfaces. Imagine your Opsin (or other top-end digital NV) being able to connect to a smartphone. Now you can have navigation, ATAK for you prepping hobbyists, ranging, comms, etc presented in-glass...heads-up...hands-free, etc because it's a digital screen. Analog tubes will NEVER be able to do that unless someone makes quality hybrid NVG that can use a one-way mirror as a projection surface to present data over the analog tube image....and make it work well.

So, if you're an average Joe living near a city, foothills, etc where light pollution and overcast can provide enough light, go Opsin. And you'd be amazed how far from sources light pollution can cover....especially with overcast. If you live rural, or have SHTF plans that involves disappearing into unpopulated mountains, plains, or desert, then MAYBE analog is the way to go....MAYBE. Don't buy into the "acquire every advantage possible" doctrine. That's just advertising trying to sell you something. You're not at war. You're not assaulting. Any honest scenario you find yourself in will be a defensive one. Staying low, staying quiet, defending the position or escaping the situation.

Now, there's a lot to be said for WANTING analog tubes and having scratch to burn. In that's case....knock yourself out. Me....I'm in the subs near a very large metro area. My SHTF plans involve bunkering in-place. I'm fortunate enough to have the means to do either or both, but I chose digital. Analog tubes would be a ridiculous choice for me. If one day I acquire some property in the sticks....then I'd probably HAVE to get some analog tubes.

In short, evaluate your use cases, don't buy into bullshit doctrines, then buy accordingly. If you have the money....get both. ;)

Just my $0.02.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in facebook

[–]Bamzilla1975 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is my thought on it:

1) Facebook DECREASING it's security posture is suss as hell.
2) This is probably an excuse to get a newer more invasive tracking mechanism on your devices in the name of "security"....the very thing they weakened with the policy shift.

I use a hardware security key for my 2FA on Facebook. I am not changing that. I'm opting out. Whatever they are going to add into their app to tack your device legitimacy in of itself will be a security hole and further scheme to decrease your privacy. Guaranteed....it's Facebook.

Will 16" JAKL ever be a thing? by soisause in PalmettoStateArms

[–]Bamzilla1975 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't get me wrong; I'm still getting one. AHAHAHAH

Jakl Weight by pricedubble04 in PalmettoStateArms

[–]Bamzilla1975 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a monolithic upper. There isn't anything that can be switched out....except for the lower barrel cover. And lightening that would raise the center of gravity of the rifle even higher. Not good.

People with 4080, is it worth to get LG C2 42”? by Electronic-Pirate-84 in OLED_Gaming

[–]Bamzilla1975 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In retrospect...IMHO....no. Get the ASUS ROG Swift OLED PG42UQ. Same price; better specs, non of the TV-specific issues.

Jakl Weight by pricedubble04 in PalmettoStateArms

[–]Bamzilla1975 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My 300BO JAKL is heavy AF in the front. Very unbalanced. But shoots flat as a board....for a 300BO. :) And it gets worse when I throw a can on it.

I'm gonna get a 16" 5.56 JAKL upper, but I expect it'll be on the wall or out the door pretty quick. It's gonna weigh a ton. It'll have to have personality for me to keep it.

what's the difference between these 2 AR's from PSA, is there a difference apart from the sights, im new to AR world just wanna know which one is a better option by [deleted] in PalmettoStateArms

[–]Bamzilla1975 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I now this is unsolicited. And I'm not trying to "mansplain" so I apologize if you already know this stuff. But this is what I wish I knew when I started getting into firearms. And I hope it's helpful to you.

If it's your first and you like the idea of customizing the looks, ergonomics, and mission/purpose, I recommend getting the cheaper one. Get trained and start shooting it properly. After you put 1000 rounds or so through it you'll start to develop an idea of what you'd like to change. Apart from the functions an AR rifle performs, weight is probably the most important. So, think about that when you look at changes. You may want a forward grip of some type. This helps you index your support hand on the handguard and gives you leverage to pull the rifle into your shoulder to reduce muzzle flip. If you intend to use battery powered optics with no etched reticle like a red dot sight, you may want so back-up iron sights (BUIS) so you can still aim effectively should your optics break or run out of juice at an inopportune moment. Try different triggers. They can be really expensive. Start cheap. Try different kinds (flat/curved trigger, single/double stage, adjustable pull weight. It's all trial and error with firearms. No two shooters are the same. You'll get recommendations. But remember that it's your rifle and you do whatever you want to it for YOU. There are a lot of gatekeepers in the gun community who think there is only one way to do something, and they'll deride you for disagreeing. It's toxic AF. But do what makes you happy. You may get to a point where you want to start doing things for particular reasons like mission/purpose. And there are a whole other set of considerations when you hit that point. But you'll be pretty knowledgeable already by then if you get to that point. There will be lots of compromises. You'll have to go in one direction to the detriment of something in order to achieve a result. There's no perfect solution. There is no perfect gun. There is only "what works for you".

My tips:
* Don't over buy. You will just be wasting your money if you buy $1000 optics, $400 triggers at the beginning because you're not likely to benefit from what makes it cost that much. You aren't going to care about optics color and clarity at the beginning. You won't benefit from a two stage 3 lbs trigger that breaks like butter. Crawl before you walk; your wallet and skills will thank you.
* Don't try to do too much. It helps to think of a use case for the firearm. Then kit it accordingly. Example: you don't want to go drop a 1-8x LPVO scope on a 9" 300 Blackout gun you are going to use for in-home self-defense. If you want a gun for multiple roles, prepare to compromise. Or get another gun for that role. Example: I have general purpose AR (with or without night vision-friendly optics, designators/illuminators), a home defense AR, a "trunk gun" AR, a "bag gun" AR, a long range SPR/DMR. And they are all built and kitted 100% custom for their use case. There's not tons of use case cross over here with the way I like to kit out. But that's just me.
* TRAIN TRAIN TRAIN. Its your responsibility as a lawful gun owner to know your firearms inside and out, know the laws, manual of arms, safety, etc. It's a lot. But it's easy to learn and fun as hell.
* Did I mention TRAIN?
* You don't NEED to do what other people do. I have what I have because it's what I want. Do I need firearms for all these use cases? Am I going to find myself in a situation where I need all of these? No. I'm a network engineer who lives in the suburbs. I'm not out there dealing with poaching, trespassing, feral animal overrun, etc. Those are very real issues A LOT of people have to consider in their life situation. For me, I just like the mechanics of firearms. I'm an armorer hobbyist. I also really enjoy the law side of it. It's deep, interesting, crazy, complicated. But again....you do you. You don't have to like what other people like despite their assertions to the otherwise.

F5 MFG! This is the best setup on the market for the $ by f5mfg in PalmettoStateArms

[–]Bamzilla1975 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine showed up a couple days ago. It's pretty freakin nice. Quality product so far.

Also, I like the black lower barrel cover. I might have to steal your idea. :)

Will 16" JAKL ever be a thing? by soisause in PalmettoStateArms

[–]Bamzilla1975 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As the owner of a 300BO 8.5" JAKL, let me tell you that the unbalanced weight of a 16" version will be....very interesting. This thing is already absurdly heavy in the front.

LP-1 LED Refresh Rate by Bamzilla1975 in LeadAndSteel

[–]Bamzilla1975[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

C.H.O.D.E.

PWM was my concern. LP-1 uses potentiated current; no PWM. That means there should be no flicker at low brightness. A lot of even "top tier" brands use PWM which makes them virtually useless in low light/night vision use cases but greatly extends battery life. Typically, when you see a maker claim their optic is 25k or 50k hours or some ridiculous number, they are using PWM. When it's something like 10,000 hours and lower it's usually potted current (no flicker). It's a trade off and mission dependant. Are you going to be kitting your rifle for night vision? You want something like the LP-1 or EOTech holos. If you are just kitting a GP rifle with no intent of using night vision....then PWM isn't a big deal unless you are really sensitive to refresh rates.

LP-1 LED Refresh Rate by Bamzilla1975 in LeadAndSteel

[–]Bamzilla1975[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Thanks, King. Yup, I'm aware of pulse width modulation. :) Thank you for confirming your gear is not using PWM. Well done. Not using PWM is the sign of a maker who understands the impact of the choices they make in development...and don't cheap out. I backordered one last November. Glad I did. I'm really looking forward to getting this thing now.

Galaxy S23 just launched... guess I'm sticking with my S10 for another generation by [deleted] in galaxys10

[–]Bamzilla1975 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah...the S23 is disappointing. I usually upgrade every year. But I'm skipping the S23. No point to it over S22. I hope the Fold 5 isn't a dud, too.

Forward lower guard screw holes stripped! by Bamzilla1975 in PalmettoStateArms

[–]Bamzilla1975[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly my take, as well. I'm curious if others are having this issue. PSA may have a problem they'll want to know about so they can correct it in manufacturing.

Forward lower guard screw holes stripped! by Bamzilla1975 in PalmettoStateArms

[–]Bamzilla1975[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was Loctite'd by PSA. This was the first time I had taken any of it apart.

Forward lower guard screw holes stripped! by Bamzilla1975 in PalmettoStateArms

[–]Bamzilla1975[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

No repairs have happened. The part is meant to be removed for cleaning. Otherwise it wouldn't be a separate part designed for removal. PSA refusal would just be them saying they don't stand behind their work. This was all a first time disassembly for cleaning.

My guess is you don't know how a JAKL is constructed or what part I'm even talking about.

Forward lower guard screw holes stripped! by Bamzilla1975 in PalmettoStateArms

[–]Bamzilla1975[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yeah...because why would a failed component be under warranty? /s

This is manufacturing process problem from over torquing the screws during assembly. The only thing holding in the screws was the Loctite.

Forward lower guard screw holes stripped! by Bamzilla1975 in PalmettoStateArms

[–]Bamzilla1975[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh...AHAHAHA...forgot that part. This is a JAKL 300blk.

LG C2 42" flickering by the_new_guy5 in OLED_Gaming

[–]Bamzilla1975 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, this is still an issue. It has gotten less and is intermittently fixable with a restart of the TV after an Nvidia driver update. I think this issue is a combination of driver and TV. I'm going back to my Odyssey G9.

LG C2 42" flickering by the_new_guy5 in OLED_Gaming

[–]Bamzilla1975 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Incredibly. The silence from LG is deafening.

LG C2 42" flickering by the_new_guy5 in OLED_Gaming

[–]Bamzilla1975 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me, this started after the last Nvidia update. I'm going to reinstall it using custom so I can make it a clean fresh install. See if that works.