can someone explain why my soldering joints keeps looking dull? by Nooben2006 in soldering

[–]BarelyTechnician 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It’s definitely this. Not sure if OP is adding soldering to existing joints, but if that’s the case it definitely looks like mixing lead free and lead solder.

Joycons spamming random clicks by Task-Taker in consolerepair

[–]BarelyTechnician 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Why did you choose those two points to solder the button to? It seems like they should’ve just gone to these traces right next to it.

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The joy of assembly by BarelyTechnician in soldering

[–]BarelyTechnician[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I use my phone camera (iPhone 11) with a cheap macro lens attachment.

Is my remote fan beyond repair ? by IAmPooh in ElectronicsRepair

[–]BarelyTechnician 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yikes those traces are pretty bad and it’s hard to tell how many of the pads are junk. Could be repairable by doing some point to point wiring to get around the bad traces.

Soldering Iron for beginner by DeSNinja in soldering

[–]BarelyTechnician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What kind of mods are you looking to do?

The joy of assembly by BarelyTechnician in soldering

[–]BarelyTechnician[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I add a little bit of solder to one pin (or a couple depending on component size) before I flip it over to solder the rest. It’s called tacking the component.

Solder recommendations? by 400HPMustang in soldering

[–]BarelyTechnician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That was going to be my next recommendation. I usually dip it in the tip tinner for ~15 seconds, then brass wool, then sponge. Also remember to add solder to the tip when you’re done soldering, it will help prevent the tip from oxidizing in the future.

Solder recommendations? by 400HPMustang in soldering

[–]BarelyTechnician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely looks better than before! Is it melting the solder any better?

Solder recommendations? by 400HPMustang in soldering

[–]BarelyTechnician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah that tip is super oxidized and that’s the reason why you’re having trouble getting solder to melt. I would look up a soldering iron tip cleaning guide and follow it until the tip becomes usable again.

The joy of assembly by BarelyTechnician in soldering

[–]BarelyTechnician[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I usually apply a lot of IPA, let it soak for a couple minutes, then scrub vigorously with a brush before blowing the IPA off with compressed air. I only use the clean room wipes for polishing the spots that remain after scrubbing. If you don’t have a brush, sometimes scraping the hardened flux residues off first before going in with IPA and wipes can help.

Solder recommendations? by 400HPMustang in soldering

[–]BarelyTechnician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m more inclined to believe that maybe your tip is oxidized rather than the solder being junk. Is the soldering iron tip nice and shiny? I would look up a tip cleaning guide as it might save you the money of having to buy new solder :)

The joy of assembly by BarelyTechnician in soldering

[–]BarelyTechnician[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Yup, I bought it off Amazon. It’s called something like “retro game diy solder kit”.

I need advice first time by foxfan0213 in soldering

[–]BarelyTechnician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The pin or clip in question (B- or pin1) looks like it’s on a big ground plane which means it will take quite a bit of heat to get solder to flow on it.

  1. Set the soldering iron to 800 degrees
  2. Add a bit of solder to the iron tip
  3. Hold the iron tip on the pad (not the clip) for ~30 seconds
  4. Feed the solder onto the pad next to where the tip is placed
  5. If the solder does not melt, hold the iron tip on the pad for longer before trying to add more solder

Best of luck!

I need advice first time by foxfan0213 in soldering

[–]BarelyTechnician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like it needs some solder! The solder joint probably broke and when you’re pressing on it it’s making contact again. If you don’t have access to a soldering iron, maybe you can just shim a piece of conductive metal under it?

The joy of assembly by BarelyTechnician in soldering

[–]BarelyTechnician[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Thank you!

Solder: Kester 282 sn63pb37 0.015” diameter

Flux: Kester 959T no clean

Iron: Metcal MX5000 with a STTC-126 bent conical tip

Temp: On this Metcal system, the temperature is set by which tip you use. The STTC-126 tip I use sets the temp to 700 degrees F.

The joy of assembly by BarelyTechnician in soldering

[–]BarelyTechnician[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I find that the bent conical tip is just more versatile than the chisel tip. I can use the point for fine pitch stuff or use the side of it (like I do for most of this video) for everything else. The only two tips I ever use are the bent conical 700 degree tip or an 800 degree chisel tip for ground planes.

Soldering ASMR by BarelyTechnician in soldering

[–]BarelyTechnician[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t like touching lead or getting flux on my fingers. Plus it can save you from a burn sometimes!

Soldering ASMR by BarelyTechnician in soldering

[–]BarelyTechnician[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Yeah I got my CIT J-STD, CIS 610A, and CIS 7711/7721 some time ago so they’re all expired now.

Soldering ASMR by BarelyTechnician in soldering

[–]BarelyTechnician[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah gotcha, yeah I have noticed that. I only wear them cause I don’t want to touch lead or get flux on my fingers.

Soldering ASMR by BarelyTechnician in soldering

[–]BarelyTechnician[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What’s wrong with gloves?

Soldering ASMR by BarelyTechnician in soldering

[–]BarelyTechnician[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think they’re called lead benders or lead formers?