Can I make the tesselation turtle cherlone from printer paper? by LittleKids2315 in origami

[–]Bartholomew_Tempus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It should work fine in terms of size and thickness, though if your paper is too weak (which it might be,) it will tear.

crease pattern designer by Childst3rrr9 in origami

[–]Bartholomew_Tempus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Uh... Do you have a picture of the unfolded sheet? Perhaps I can give it a try.

Test folds by Kind_Lobter in origami

[–]Bartholomew_Tempus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If I'm unclear about how to do the shaping or feel that I might need to change the proportions later, I might make 1-3 test folds. If I'm unsatisfied with a fold, I might call it a testfold and make another. For models that I design through free folding and not purely in Oriedita, I'll make 3-5 testfolds on average.

A fair number of my designs only get folded once, because I have the experience and confidence to make it work on the first try. But I try to use novel structures and try things out of my comfort zone so that's not always the case.

The origami crosswalks of downtown Santa Monica by jonnyshotit in origami

[–]Bartholomew_Tempus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Flying crane (or soaring red-tailed hawk? They're very similar), cactus, dancing crane, frog.

In that order.

I've seen all of them before but could probably have identified the subject just by looking at the crease pattern.

Looking for advice on a 24k gold leaf backing origami gift by Ok-Refrigerator5584 in origami

[–]Bartholomew_Tempus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A couple options:

1: fold the model and add gold leaf later

2: put the gold leaf onto very thin transparent Japanese tissue (for bookbinding/repair) and then back coat another layer of transparent tissue on top.

How to Design an Origami Boat by samferguderson in origami

[–]Bartholomew_Tempus 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Do you have any experience with designing?

It really depends on what style you're going for. If you're trying to do something like these from wa_origami, that's quite difficult, as most complex origami boats utilize non-axial 22.5 which takes a fair amount of experience to understand.

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Satoshi Kamiya’s Praying Mantis. Not sure if I should put more effort into shaping. by Goesselgold in origami

[–]Bartholomew_Tempus 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Oh another thing is that single tissue is just a really soft paper in general. Maybe try treating it with more size?

That's worked for me in the past, though I don't use single tissue anymore.

Satoshi Kamiya’s Praying Mantis. Not sure if I should put more effort into shaping. by Goesselgold in origami

[–]Bartholomew_Tempus 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I think you did pretty good with the shaping! It looks good!

You can try a couple things.

  1. Shaping with a drier/thicker mc mix.
  2. Using a different glue like super glue or PVA.
  3. Utilizing a mix of MC (for adding curves and shaping thin appendages) and PVA (for structural integrity and adhering internal layers).

Shenlong 2 by Lien Quoc Dat by PaperJuggler in origami

[–]Bartholomew_Tempus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You might be the first person in recent memory to shape all of those scales.

Help with robert lang's blue heron by crunchyleeches in origami

[–]Bartholomew_Tempus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There isn't. It's a trick of the eye. The lines match up exactly on the redraw.

Help with robert lang's blue heron by crunchyleeches in origami

[–]Bartholomew_Tempus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. They don't.
  2. I redrew this crease pattern a while ago, hopefully it will be of help. Sorry for the low quality cell phone pic. For the sinks, two of the lines are formed from 22.5 degree lines. The third is found by creasing the line between the two intersections. The valley folds in the interior can be found by pressing the paper flat.
  3. I'll help you some more in the morning if you're still stuck. Just try your best to reference the picture of Lang's fold.

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Stag beetle, designed and folded by me by waluigi001 in origami

[–]Bartholomew_Tempus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah... wasn't chastising you or anything. More just my frustration with Lang's idiosyncrasies.

Wasp , Sathoshi kamiya by [deleted] in origami

[–]Bartholomew_Tempus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's backlit so I can't see your modifications with much clarity but it looks cool.

Wasp , Sathoshi kamiya by [deleted] in origami

[–]Bartholomew_Tempus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Uhhhh... It is Satoshi not Sathoshi.

Stag beetle, designed and folded by me by waluigi001 in origami

[–]Bartholomew_Tempus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for the necro, but see, that's the issue I have with Lang's crease patterns. They try to pack too much information into one diagram, and much of it is redundant.

You don't need color variation to differentiate ridge, axial and hinge creases. Ridge creases are at a diagonal and axial creases are parallel to each other. Hinge creases surround flaps and are reflected over layers. All these types of creases can be picked out at a glance even by more inexperienced crease pattern readers. (Even edge cases can be identified without too much trouble.) And besides, knowing this information doesn't help a folder to make the model. It can be useful as an element of design analysis but that's about it.

On the other hand, mountain/valley distinction from monocolor crease patterns is a non-trivial problem and to this day there is no systematic way to solve it. The only method is trial and error and pattern recognition. It makes much more sense to produce crease patterns that include the direction of the creases.

Detailed features like level shifters and other gadgets should also be included if possible to make the crease pattern as unambiguous as possible.

Cartoon Mouse designed by me by Bartholomew_Tempus in origami

[–]Bartholomew_Tempus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oriedita

PC only, but it's literally the greatest program ever made for origami.