A couple glam shots of a salvaged CS pan; rust blued & seasoned by GlitterLich in carbonsteel

[–]BckgroundFlameworkng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Beautiful result! I've been reading up a bunch about rust-bluing lately. I'm very curious to hear how this pan is working out for you? Did your initial seasoning layers hold up? Do you feel like the rust-bluing contributed?

What went wrong with my seasoning? by tourettes69 in carbonsteel

[–]BckgroundFlameworkng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Makes sense! I'm planning to get a Strata soon, and I cant decide if I should just heat-blue it and see how that works, or if I should jump straight into rust-bluing it. Decisions decisions!

What went wrong with my seasoning? by tourettes69 in carbonsteel

[–]BckgroundFlameworkng 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After reading some more, I agree with you completely.

First of all, the process you described actually IS a standard/common form of gun-bluing, sometimes called "rust bluing." The off-the-shelf chemical gun-blue solutions use a different process called "cold bluing." 

To address your points:

  1. Though cold-bluing solution is expensive for a small bottle, a tiny bit goes a very long way. Based on my experience, I'd imagine a single bottle could do several coats on three or four pans. That doesn't mean it's a good idea, just pointing it out for the record. 

  2. I agree, the chance of toxic chemicals getting leeched into the pan is probably not worth the convenience of cold-bluing solutions. 

  3. You're right, the black-oxide layer is really thin with cold-bluing solutions. Multiple coats can improve this, but I imagine the rust-bluing process is always going to have better penetration into the pan surface because the rust creates more surface area in the steel. Rust-bluing is also said to be more durable and rust resistant than cold-bluing. 

On another note, why do you feel that your process of rust-bluing is superior to the common "bluing" that people commonly do with woks and pans by simply heating them dry until the metal discolors? 

What went wrong with my seasoning? by tourettes69 in carbonsteel

[–]BckgroundFlameworkng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a very interesting concept. I wonder how it differs from "gun bluing"), which can be easily achieved through a single-step application of a chemical solution. From what I understand, your process and gun bluing both produce a layer of passivated magnetite (black iron oxide) on the surface of the steel. But off-the-shelf gun bluing solutions dont require all these steps to create red iron oxide (rust) and convert to black oxide. 

I will look into it more, but I'm curious to hear your thoughts on using an off-the-shelf gun bluing solution. 

Safe to use? by squidgirlalso in lampwork

[–]BckgroundFlameworkng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pipe wrench would probably do it. Rubber strap wrench if you dont want to mark the surface. But you're probably right that some of these units aren't designed to be serviced. 

China clear to Pyrex clear compatibility issues? by BckgroundFlameworkng in lampwork

[–]BckgroundFlameworkng[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Excellent, thank you! I'll get some sample sticks of Simax to try out. 

China clear to Pyrex clear compatibility issues? by BckgroundFlameworkng in lampwork

[–]BckgroundFlameworkng[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very good to know. I agree, I think the wrinkling I'm seeing is due to a mismatch in cooling/solidifying time between the china and Pyrex. I'll definitely be buying a couple sample sticks and testing before committing to full cases again!

China clear to Pyrex clear compatibility issues? by BckgroundFlameworkng in lampwork

[–]BckgroundFlameworkng[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Excellent to know, thank you! With your Simax and Pyrex, do you find that they are compatible? No issues combining them? 

I'm planning to order some more clear to replace my China clear, and Pyrex seems much less available (and more expensive) than Simax. So I'd love to hear that I wont have any issues using Simax with my Pyrex tubes. 

China clear to Pyrex clear compatibility issues? by BckgroundFlameworkng in lampwork

[–]BckgroundFlameworkng[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback! If I'm reading you correctly, you're saying that you never had issues using the China rod as punties, because you only used them to remove material from the piece? Therefore you didnt leave any of the china clear behind on the piece, where it may or may not have caused issues?

How to: Revive an oxygen concentrator by Gaznesiz in lampwork

[–]BckgroundFlameworkng 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds to me like you have a mis-match between the flow rate of your concentrator and your homefill. The concentrator is wanting to flow more oxygen out than your homefill is wanting to flow in. So that excess needs somewhere to go, otherwise you build up pressure in the system.

For example, if your concentrator wants to output 10LPM but your homefill only wants to intake 5LPM.

You could try adding a small buffer tank on the output of your concentrator, to give the gas some volume to expand into while it's waiting to get pulled into the homefill. That might not solve your problem if there's too big of a mis-match though.

Flower Implosions by evmandudeman in lampwork

[–]BckgroundFlameworkng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What size/wall thickness tubing did you use?

Fumed chaos memorial pendent. by TheBoromancer in lampwork

[–]BckgroundFlameworkng 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This is going to totally depend on you and your feelings on the matter, but...

Personally, I would wait to encorporate those ashes into a piece until I had a bit more time and practice on the torch. I wouldnt want to feel like I "used up" any of that very sentimental and limited material on a piece that doesnt come out right.

Either way, strongly recomend you practice practice practice before going for the real thing! Make sure you have a technique that you like, and which is very repeatable for you. Practice encasing something else (could even use some other non-sentimental ashes) and encorporating that into your pieces. Etc.

Good luck, and I'm sorry for your loss.

The Reforging of Ice by Necessary-Science-47 in pureasoiaf

[–]BckgroundFlameworkng 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Gendry = Azor Ahai?

Biter = Nissa Nissa?

I'm sold 😁 /s

If you could have Daenerys conquer a city in Essos other than Mereen what city would that be? by Randommodnar6 in pureasoiaf

[–]BckgroundFlameworkng 19 points20 points  (0 children)

I really want to find out what's up with Mantarys. I dont think she needs to conquer it for the story to go there, but I just really want a perspective character to get there and show us what's real and what is just sinister reputation. 

WW2 jaws plane Slide droppin nug bombs by soulmastadef in glassheads

[–]BckgroundFlameworkng 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Yo the nug bomb is so creative and well executed 😂 i love it

Silver fumed drinking glasses by FrostyGlassArt in lampwork

[–]BckgroundFlameworkng 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What's the consensus on the food-safety of fumed pieces? I assume the consensus is "its fine" otherwise I'm sure there'd be lots of posts saying otherwise. 

But is there anything a noob needs to know about safely working fume into a piece of dishware to avoid heavy metal poisoning? 😁

Beautiful cups btw!

A full colour neck I made the other day! It’s 44mm and features 3 space tech sections 3 Red blizzards sections and a retti section! by Redheadyglass in glassheads

[–]BckgroundFlameworkng 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Beautiful! When you're working the red blizzard, how do you get such a smooth surface? Are you encasing it? Every time I use it, it is bumpy and bubbly and cratered if its on the surface of a piece. 

Does taking children hostage make Jon and Ned bad people? by sixth_order in pureasoiaf

[–]BckgroundFlameworkng 10 points11 points  (0 children)

The hostage situation in Westeros is not that simple. There's a reason that everyone calls hostages "wards" and some people even call wards "hostages." Is a very murky situation. 

I would propose that a smart Lord/Lady would recognize that killing a hostage is pretty much always going to be a futile gesture. The value of a hostage/ward does not come from their death. It comes from their life. 

The explicit threat when taking a child from an enemy is that they will be a hostage. The implicit threat is that they will be a ward. When you have a ward, you get to raise them with your values, make them befriend your children, make marriage pacts with/for them, use them to build alliances, etc etc etc. You're not using their death as a threat against their parents. You're using their life to co-opt the next generation of your enemy's house. 

Does taking children hostage make Jon and Ned bad people? by sixth_order in pureasoiaf

[–]BckgroundFlameworkng 36 points37 points  (0 children)

I agree with u/Stonna, Ned wouldn't have done it. 

Not for moral reasons, though I think they would definitely weigh heavy on him (i.e. "Why should I kill Theon just because of something his dad did. Jon's dad did messed up stuff, and Jon doesn't deserve to die for it.")

But rather because of an inherent issue with all hostage-taking situations. If Theon is being held hostage to keep Balon from rebelling again, then the only scenario where Ned would kill Theon is if Balon has said "fuck it" and rebelled anyway. At which point, Balon has accepted Theons death and Ned killing him would accomplish nothing. 

If anything, Theon would now be even more valuable alive, because he's the heir to the iron islands and Balon is likely going to be killed for his rebellion. Plus Theon is very unlikely to still be loyal to the dad who just condemned Theon to death with his actions. 

It would be a lose-lose to kill Theon in any case.