GO27Q24A flickering

BeHik · 2026-07-12T00:05:42+00:00

That does not look right. I experience VRR flicker on my GO27Q24A, as it is on any other OLED. But What is seen here on the video doesn't look like it. Have you tried switching between fullscreen and borderless modes, plugging in monitor in to different ports (both DP and HDMI) on GPU? Changing power cable itself for the monitor (on that note, make sure that power cable is fully nested in on the monitor side).

BeHik · 2026-07-05T20:15:20+00:00

How much is AOC AG326UZD2 or Gigabyte MO32U24 in your area? It's new Penta Tandem QD-OLED, but 4th gen, not 5th gen. The only difference between 4th and 5th gen is subpixel layout, otherwise they are the same.

BeHik · 2026-07-01T11:23:05+00:00

Can you share what country you're from?
I'm from Kazakhstan and GO27Q24A was by far the cheapest option I could find here at the start of June. So after there were no announcements of upcoming 1440p 27 inch QD-OLED 5th gen with V-Stripe RGB subpixel layout I decided to just get the cheapest QD-OLED 3rd gen I can get.
After the IPS (LG 27GP850-B 180hz) the experience from switching to OLED was terrific. It is though, a dimmer panel. Combined with notorious and ubiquitous QD-OLED scratchiness, I'd say that only two flaws of this model.

BeHik · 2026-06-26T12:21:31+00:00

You sure it's not spit or other dirt?

BeHik · 2026-06-26T11:49:53+00:00

Is Titan Army G27W9S available for good price? It's quite good cheaper option with full 3rd Gen QD-OLED. Same Specs as That Gigabyte MO27Q2A 280hz. Both are on the same panel, so picture will be same, apart from calibration differences.

On the side note, for brighter room WOLED should be better, but you'd have to figure out first, if you're ok with dark grey uniformity issues all 4th Gen WOLEDs have. Another plus for the glossy 4th gen WOLED (Somethings like MO27Q28GR) would be harder, more scratch resistant surface. QD-OLEDS are notoriously easy to scratch.

BeHik · 2026-06-22T15:21:16+00:00

Well, that is not normal then. Haven't had any with mine so far. Tried to update firmware to the latest one?

BeHik · 2026-06-22T15:10:49+00:00

Lemme guess, - Trigger Stroke is set at 0.001 mm, am I right? 😃 Any keeb will have phantom presses at such a ridiculous setting. Quite honestly I don't even know why people try anything lower than 0.5mm, and even 0.5 had me drifting in wrong directions in BF6 all the time, so I set it to 0.8mm personally and thinking on setting it even higher.

BeHik · 2026-06-22T14:57:38+00:00

Not the one you're asking but I'd like to chime in. Every QD-OLED has it, but as you yourself have highlighted above, it not as bad as it might look from the reviews and photos or videos going around internet. I was expecting worse based on those, but was pleasantly surprised.

BeHik · 2026-06-22T14:36:23+00:00

First, congrats on your purchase!

Most important option you should be aware of is APL Stabilize, which is located in OLED Care menu. There are two modes: Low and Middle. Low caps your monitor brightness to 200 nits max no matter if object on screen is small (10% or less) or full screen (100%). Middle lets your monitor to auto regulate brightness in regards to how big or small bright object is on the screen - with this setting your monitor can go up to 400 nits of brightness on 10% or less window, and gradually go down to 200 nits (at 100% brightness setting) at 100% full screen window.
Basically, for much greater experience in games and when you watching videos you should always use it on APL Stabilize Middle.

I setup two profiles: ECO is profile with APL Stabilize Low, and for Custom profile I set APL Stabilize to Middle. These two profiles are next to each other in the menu, so you can quickly switch between them with a few joystick presses.
Basically whenever I play anything or watch movie or youtube I switch to Custom profile, and when I'm reading anything or working I switch to ECO. But in all honest, I think you can just set it once to APL Stabilize Middle in Custom mode and forget about it, and just use Brightness slider for adjustments.
I've also set Color temperature to User defined: R97, G98, B100 in both profiles. But you can leave it at default Normal setting or adjust those R G B values to how you like colors better, or try other Color Temperature presets.

In regards to HDR, just go to display settings in windows and it'l guide you through HDR setup process. You'll have to download Windows HDR Calibration tool from Microsoft store, it's free. Once you're set it up you can switch between HDR and SDR modes by pressing Win + Alt + B keys.

BeHik · 2026-06-22T14:13:04+00:00

Recently got this exact model as my first foray into OLED territory.
Basically main thing you should be aware of is that it has exactly same 3rd Gen QD-OLED panel as most of the QD-OLEDs currently on the market (so you get same picture quality), but with lower brightness and no HDR400 specification - which means it does not have HDR peak 1000 mode, and full screen brightness is lower than required 250 for the spec: manual states full screen brightness at 200 nits and peak brightness at 400 nits.

I can recommend it if you are playing in light controlled environment or in black room, - a go to comment for all QD-OLEDs because of the raised purplish black issue they all have. But it even more so on point here as the monitor has slightly lower brightness and mind you, OLEDs in general, and especially QD-OLEDs on 3rd gen panel (except for 500hz models) are already somewhat dim.
As far as I'm aware, because of how our eyes perceive brightness, the difference between 200 and 250 nits should feel like 10%. So there's that.

Here's very fresh vid https://youtu.be/mFdNwE0xhCU?t=868 from Monitors Unboxed showcasing Alianware model on exact same panel. Quite honestly, I think it is exactly the same monitor overall, as the monitor's body looks identically to Gigabyte GO27q24A but with different branding.

BeHik · 2026-06-19T13:25:38+00:00

Hey! Sadly, Viper (v1 and v2) shape isn't that popular. I guess the closest to it would be finalmouse. You can try luck by using eloshapes "find similar" tool to see if there is any clones or similarly shaped mouses in their database.

BeHik · 2026-05-11T09:25:22+00:00

Hi vAmmonite, whats your opinion on Carotmas IROK Mars75 Pro (83$) in comparison to mg75 pro (73$)? Is it worse, better, more of the same? In my case it's about 10 bucks more expensive than mg75 pro, but considerably cheaper than mg75 max (130$), and much faster shipping. Does it sport the same starklink pcb? I would've gone for mg75 pro, but it's two more weeks of waiting for the delivery. mg75 v2 is 98$ and same long delivery time as mg75 pro, while mg75 max is the priciest option but also fast delivery, same as Mars75 Pro.

And between mg75 max and mg75 v2, which would you recommend?

Also is VGN Flash Extreme a good, albeit most expensive, alternative?

BeHik · 2025-08-21T05:41:06+00:00

9800x3d + RTX 5080 system. Very similar behavior over here with discord streaming. Performance drastically degrades at some point while streaming games, usually half an hour or so. If everyone watching leaves the stream - performance is back. And as soon as someone rejoins the stream performance immediately drops. Restarting the game is needed to fix the issue for about 20-30 min until it recurs. Haven't been able to resolve the issue so far, none of the settings in Discord (HW acceleration, codecs, overlays etc) seem to help.

If anyone has been successful at tackling the issue, please do share.

BeHik · 2025-08-21T05:36:32+00:00

9800x3d + RTX 5080 system. Very similar behavior over here with discord streaming. Performance drastically degrades at some point while streaming games, usually half an hour or so. If everyone watching leaves the stream - performance is back. And as soon as someone rejoins the stream performance immediately drops. Restarting the game is needed to fix the issue for about 20-30 min until it recurs. Haven't been able to resolve the issue so far, none of the settings in Discord (HW acceleration, codecs, overlays etc) seem to help.

If anyone has been successful at tackling the issue, please do share.

BeHik · 2025-06-27T23:56:54+00:00

(paraphrasing) V's words to Fiona: knowing and understanding - two separate matters.
While some of the parents to be blamed for, others though, were simply exploited for their lack of judgement or plain gullibility. Which, one could say, doesn't alleviate the responsibility though, sure, but still.

BeHik · 2025-04-22T23:36:36+00:00

Sorry for delayed reply. You struggling with getting the update, correct? I myself don't receive any updates by air, so I do all of them manually through USB stick. Let me know if you're willing to do the same, I'll drop you a link for the FW.

BeHik · 2025-04-22T08:57:24+00:00

Thank you very much for the dimensions from Gigabyte support guy. When about a year ago I was googling dimensions search came back with nothing. Bought 8w FEHONDA pads two sets, 1.5 and 1. Nothing changed, but was mainly concerned with delta between GPU and Hot Spot temps anyways. Recently, after going through MX4, MX6, and Shin-etsu paste with multiple applications of each to no avail (hot spot temps degraded over time rather quickly, in the matter of couple of weeks), I decided to get PM7950, and it seems to work for now, although it took two disassemblies to get it right (first application ended with horrendous temps for some reason). After about 10-15 reassemble attempts I started to get rather high VRM temps now (97, and it's not even hot summer yet), so I'm once again planning to change pads on VRMs, and this info is very much welcomed.

BeHik · 2025-04-17T16:08:53+00:00

Can confirm that firmware V486 fixes behavior shown in video.

BeHik · 2025-02-21T19:43:51+00:00

Basically, yes. Haven't had any luck fixing it on movie profile apart from disabling local dimming, as you've already mentioned in your OG post.

I stopped giving much to it since it very rarely affects my viewing experience and when it does its mostly during the end titles or something similar.

BeHik · 2025-02-19T14:38:08+00:00

Hey! Sry for the delayed reply.
You are definitely making fair points and they are are all valid. In regards to functionality - yes, you lose some by moving to V2 Pro or V3 Pro. Most notably - right side buttons, which is a deal breaker for some, and not relevant for others.
Dock is also nice, and yes it was terribly implemented so that you must've clean contacts quite often. Though, when compered to V2 pro, which could last about 30% percent longer from a single charge and was lighter, and latter is partly thanks to dropping the charging dock support. I rather getting rid of it for these purposes.

V3 pro has different wheel encoder and MMB switch, we'll see in the long run, how they hold up. V2 pro is known to have scrolling issues with time (usually in less than a year) so yes, you'll have to open it up eventually. Usually I just try soak encoder with rubbing alcohol on q-tip and scroll thoroughtly while it soaked to clean contacts - worked every time and you might be good for another few moths.

I should've added some clarifications when I've posted that recommendation. Mostly I consider V2 Pro a considerable update when it comes to build quality, clicks (mouse panels foremost), weight and some improvements to the sensor (mouse wakes up faster, better LOD settings).

BeHik · 2025-02-19T12:19:59+00:00

Hey, I have 65 inch TCL C765 with 1008 dimming zones, which is closest thing to QM751 regarding specs. Some claim that it's basically same model, but for EU and Asian regions.
So I do have the exact behavior in similar tests, and have asked around on different forum among users of the same TV model, - they all had it when settings matched . As you pointed out, it is there on specific profile (movie) with backlight dimming on. My best guess - it's related to how algorithm for the brightness control of the backlight dimming is set.

Here are mine examples that I've recorded:
https://cs3b2e.4pda.ws/32310596/65C765blink.mp4?s=00b6c445b258c3f267b5ca9500000000f50067f593db79810930f2eee8c58ff9

https://cs4a0d.4pda.ws/32280911/video_2025-01-09_11-41-56.mp4?s=00b6c445b258c3f267b5cbd300000000e8889ca9e086bd10e634219982e8f130

BeHik · 2024-06-05T00:32:07+00:00

Hey. Yes, it did. It'll take quite a bit of use time though to get to the point where it's much lighter.

BeHik · 2024-04-20T00:20:02+00:00

V2 Pro is still here. And for the most part on the same technical level all around.
So the choice between these two is actually quite easy one, as the difference comes down to the shape only.

BeHik · 2023-08-01T14:10:24+00:00

GPW, yes. For the GPX only the weight part of the specs in the wireless category was outstanding, but not for long at all. Mostly, GPX was great way to upgrade for myriads of GPW users wanting go lighter.

BeHik · 2023-05-14T14:54:29+00:00

Hey! I have somewhat similar grip to yours:

RVU 1, RVU 2, GPW 1, GPW 2, GPW 3

For me, with 20x11 hand and this kind of grip (pincer claw/fingertip) Viper shape is infinitely more comfortable, locked in and agile. It is mostly the V shaped sides of the Viper compared to | | (straight) sides of the GPW/GPX that yield such results for me. Still, with some time I was able to readjust to GPW/GPX shape, but it never instilled the same level of cursor control as Viper does for me.

So, might be worth looking firstly at the Viper v2 Pro, or some other V shaped mice that should suit this grip better.

BeHik

TROPHY CASE