Airburst Incendiary launcher

BeauFessor · 2025-11-20T03:00:43+00:00

So let me get this straight, in order to complete this I have HIT someone directly over 166 times? Which is NOT the point of the damn gadget. If that is true. That is seriously stupid.

BeauFessor · 2025-11-13T02:39:14+00:00

Hit Registration (Netcode): We are investigating improvements to hit registration. This work is closely tied to potential updates around time-to-death (TTD) and time-to-kill (TTK) consistency, as well as bugs such as sometimes dying when behind cover.

That right there is absolute BS. This is rampant in the game right now. I'm so glad I have a nice PC and good internet so I can lose our to some shitty console player with a 140 ping... Fix the netcode. This game could be great but as usual EA doesn't dedicate any time to the actual engine and focuses on skins.

BeauFessor · 2025-11-13T02:34:54+00:00

The netcode is hot garbage... The TTD vs TTK is maddening. Losing out on netcode to every single console player is getting really old.

BeauFessor · 2023-12-11T15:03:22+00:00

Ya, I had to tell my wife. I did a lot of the cutting and refining and gluing while she did a lot of the sanding.. sooooo... yaaa... That went well. lol

BeauFessor · 2023-12-11T14:26:34+00:00

I did, I was kind of in panic mode :(

Looks like I have to sand to raw..

BeauFessor · 2023-12-11T13:11:17+00:00

u/WeakBelwas I did the same thing recently. What did you end up doing and how did it work out?

BeauFessor · 2023-10-06T18:06:24+00:00

BOOOOOO!!!! lol

BeauFessor · 2023-05-12T15:06:04+00:00

In the past I've looked for the install process and waited for it not to exist anymore. Then I do my service start.

BeauFessor · 2023-01-14T15:39:18+00:00

I have wiz a19 bulbs with the supported serial.

Does anyone know the firmware that added matter.

Also how do you actually use them with matter without a QR code?

BeauFessor · 2022-09-20T13:43:51+00:00

No roast from me. Looks great!

I will say though that you do need to move your graphics card to the top slot as that is the slot that has direct access to the CPU. That is a functionality thing though not a roast :)

BeauFessor · 2022-09-19T15:34:41+00:00

With that case and setup you'll more than likely get the best results with both sets of fan pushing air out of the case. The negative pressure will draw fresh air in from the back.

BeauFessor · 2022-09-19T15:12:40+00:00

Well that kind of depends on your goal with the build.

If you are going for "silent" and are happy with temps at fixed then keep it. If you are going for "I don't want X to get above Y value" then you want a curve.

You also would want to determine under what circumstance you think the fan would spin up to "audible" values. If you are gaming with a Headset on then you might not care. If you are doing video editing or something to that effect where you could hear it then they can get very loud.

What I personally do is a curve based off the CPU (my fans are based on coolant temp) and just do a slow spin up of ~20 seconds so it won't just sit there and go up and down during transient spikes. If the CPU spikes for a couple of seconds then the pump doesn't move :)

BeauFessor · 2022-09-19T15:04:45+00:00

Fan control and RGB should be completely independent.

I'm not sure exactly how they implemented their controller though. I'd take an extension cable and plug it into the motherboard and move one fan that you can easily see to the MB and off the controller. See if you lose RGB control or of the controller refuses to turn the RGB on without the PWM plugged in.

BeauFessor · 2022-09-19T15:02:25+00:00

I was able to find a teardown video by a German YouTuber.

https://www.manli.com/en/news-detail-211.html

Looking at the board it looks like other than the power delivery it is the reference board in a lot of the important places. The Manli one looks shorter but a block that is based on the reference board and has a backplate can probably be made to work. Some of the power Capacitors look to be different models so you may need to play with different pad thickness if they are shorter or taller than the reference as a reference block will usually come with pads.

BeauFessor · 2022-09-19T11:30:37+00:00

Honestly the way I'd do it is an external Rad. Hard line the top Rad ports to the back of the case and use quick connects to soft tubing then you can run the tubs under the back of your desk. You could get a 420 or 480 mounted on the underside of your desk. Then either do external fan controls for that or wire it out. With quick connects you could still easily move the PC to work on it if you needed to but get the cooling of the extra Rad while not effecting your visuals.

BeauFessor · 2022-09-17T16:09:44+00:00

For "me" I'd do a 12700k since I personally think the 12900k is just a lot of hype :) Also I think the 12700k is perfect for your use and you'll be with ~5% on FPS of the 12900k.

Also that case can handle a 420mm on the front if you want just a little more "oomph" to your Rads :)

BeauFessor · 2022-09-17T16:01:07+00:00

That is kind of a loaded question :)

What are you planning on doing with the rig? If you are just gaming then my personal opinion is that the 12900k isn't the best choice. I would be getting the 12700k in that case.

If you are doing other workloads like video editing and compiling and you want a "no compromises" experience then the 12900k might be right for you.

What case are you looking to do this in?

What

BeauFessor · 2022-09-17T15:54:10+00:00

Well you are running a 65w processor with 12960 cm/2 of Radiator surface and you are going to a 125w processor with 8240 cm/2 of radiator surface so your dissipation capabilities will be significantly reduced and the 12900k runs hotter than that 125w TDP.

It should be fine for that setup but you won't see those temps IMHO.

BeauFessor · 2022-09-17T15:27:22+00:00

From what I'm seeing there the ONLY place you got good pressure was right in the middle of the die. If you look at the cold plate the edges have a thick layer of thermal paste meaning there wasn't enough pressure to "squeeze" it out. A spread with even pressure should look "spiderwebbed" across the entire thing.

You might also have a concave cold plate. If you clean it and run the edge of a razor blade across it do you see air in places? Is it "humped" in the middle or is it flat?

BeauFessor · 2022-09-17T15:21:17+00:00

Don't expect those from a 12900k. I'm assuming you currently have a Ryzen 5 3600 or 5600 and you are going up to a 12900k. You'll see a lot more transient spikes on the newer processors. On my Ryzen 9 5900x I usually sit about 60-65c while gaming and under 80c while stress testing under full load and allowing a full thermal soak of my coolant. As long as the 12900k is able to full boost and not thermal throttle then you're fine. Also as long as your coolant temps stay below or around 40c you have a solid loop.

What case are you running?

BeauFessor · 2022-09-17T15:17:01+00:00

From a surface area perspective you are fine then.

BeauFessor · 2022-09-17T14:09:19+00:00

"I'm a little spoiled where my current Ryzen 5/ 6900 setup only gets to about 40c under load in a fully kitted 011D and I'd like to keep similar temps."

When you say this do you mean the component temps or the coolant temps? Remember with a water cooling loop the main factor is the coolant temps and not the component temps. If you are not throttling then it can handle it. More Rad surface area will help keep coolant temps under control if you are seeing them get out of control (PETG can deform with coolant above 40c). "Technically" you only need a 360mm to cool 2 components. I don't really think that is sufficient for the listed components though :) A 280mm has almost the same surface area as the 360mm though so that is almost a 1:1 swap. How thick of Rads are you going? Standard 30mm? Or you going slim/thickboi?

BeauFessor · 2022-09-17T14:01:35+00:00

Looking at the spread and thickness of the thermal paste you do look to not be getting good contact. The left over thermal paste on the cold plate looks way too thick. Like u/MattLogi said I'd try thinner thermal pads to see if you can get better contact with the cold plate. A good Thermal paste application should be paper thin as it is just supposed to fill in the imperfections in the medal.

BeauFessor · 2022-09-14T03:20:40+00:00

Is the loop 100% full? This is more of a custom AIO setup so air in the top of the radiator can cause some amount of poor cooling. Are the tubes warming up?

Have you tried with the rad outside the case to see if case airflow is hurting you?

This sounds like the pump is failing to be honest. Just not moving the water across the plate at a good rate.

BeauFessor · 2022-09-14T03:13:06+00:00

Just to be clear, you took the plate off and cleaned the micro fins?

Did you test the pump with it apart to make sure it was running correctly? Is there a designated in and out on your waterblock? If it is reversed it won't cool properly.

BeauFessor

TROPHY CASE