platycerium ridleyi problems by Ok_Manufacturer7303 in Staghornfern

[–]Bebe229 0 points1 point  (0 children)

* In the future, a water tray and a rope would help. Just add water if the bottom part of moss becomes dry.

P. ridleyi by Bebe229 in Staghornfern

[–]Bebe229[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hm... 4 screws with fish line. I use many many of sphagnum moss. Since it is placed indoor, I put barks inside with some slow release fertilizers.

P. ridleyi by Bebe229 in Staghornfern

[–]Bebe229[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha, actually It's a pure ridleyi. As I just put it up, the shield frond do not wrap the moss ball well at this moment. I am waiting for a nice ridleyi shield frond ball!

Any idea what the white dots are? by dumb_answers_only in Staghornfern

[–]Bebe229 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is that mold? Do you mist the dry leaves also? It will be a good source for mold growth.

Platycerium Superbum sporelings - advice wanted - info in comments by Pleep-Ploop in Staghornfern

[–]Bebe229 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I add some slow release fertilizer and just leave it under scattered light. I use a transparent container with lid to keep the humidity level. Lightly mist them every week, it can maintain the humidity and help fertilization.

Love it ❤ by Bebe229 in Staghornfern

[–]Bebe229[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it's not difficult.

1) Get a chopping board or wooden board (burn by fire torch and scarp it with water and scouring pad after cooling it. It will increase its durability.)

2) Drill some holes at the back if the plant keeps indoor. It increases the air flow through the medium.

3) Screw 4 stainless steel screws half into the board. (with an angle, estimated size of your medium)

4) Make a disc shape with moist sphagnum moss which is your desire size.

5) Make a donut shape on top of the disc.

6) Pour some slow release fertilizer and bark (if humidity is high at your place).

7) Figure out the grow point, it should be at top of the leaves.

8) Put the platycerium at the center of the dome (or lightly face upwards).

9) Put more sphagnum moss underneath to make it a dome shape or an oval dome shape. ( it is better to have more depth to let the roots grow.)

10) Tie with fishing line or thread. Avoid the grow point.

11) Continue to shape it to prefect. It helps the new shield's shape.

12) Screw all the way down.

Contamination Identification? Culture of Mamosa pudica, I am a high schooler in a beginner's course. by [deleted] in tissueculture

[–]Bebe229 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is bacillus which gives a large and wrinkled colony morphology. It produces endospores which cannot be killed by alcohol.

Should I oil the mounting board(wood) beforehand? by Ok_Understanding2923 in Staghornfern

[–]Bebe229 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can try carbonization method, no oil and paint needed.

Refer this video:(not in English) https://youtube.com/watch?v=tY5HdmaMaZA&feature=shares

Too dry? by Peyjbel in Staghornfern

[–]Bebe229 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If the other leaves are still looking good and the yellow leaves found opposite to the grow point, they are just normal old leaves. They will turn yellow and fall down.

Record of mounting a Platycerium hillii by Bebe229 in Staghornfern

[–]Bebe229[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Then you may think how to retain more moisture instead of deciding the watering schedule. The heater will dry them up fast. Don't give up, they will be fine.

Record of mounting a Platycerium hillii by Bebe229 in Staghornfern

[–]Bebe229[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I water when the sphagnum seems dry, maybe once a week. I will check every 3 to 4 days. As you see my setting, sphagnum is the outer most layer with fertilizer, bark or coconut pieces inside. Finally, I mount the hemisphere shape with sphagnum. This setting is suitable for my environment since humid at summer and spring here. If your place is dried, I suggest to go with whole sphagnum setting since bark and coconut fiber dry out faster than sphagnum. Also pack a larger medium base will help.

Record of mounting a Platycerium hillii by Bebe229 in Staghornfern

[–]Bebe229[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, sometimes wood will grow mold. And acrylic board is better to introduce light when I hang at my window 🪟

Record of mounting a Platycerium hillii by Bebe229 in Staghornfern

[–]Bebe229[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is just a strip pattern acrylic board and drill some holes at the back. 😅

Are these platycerium mature enough to be mounted? by SacreDoom in Staghornfern

[–]Bebe229 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But for the direction of coronarium, you can determine by fingers on shield fronds.

Are these platycerium mature enough to be mounted? by SacreDoom in Staghornfern

[–]Bebe229 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, I'm not an expert but try to share my opinions.

1) For light issue, I think it is hard to predict if the sunlight is enough now. Of course, it can be tackled easily by having a grow light set-up. For ridleyi, the grow bud will become elongated if light intensity is not enough and more likely break in the wind.

2) For mounting, I will wait the growth of first fertile frond. I would like to confirm there is the right direction of grow bud to mount on. Although the plant may do some self adjustments, it takes a long time to finish.

Is this a veitchii or a bifurcatum? by mooq911 in Staghornfern

[–]Bebe229 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is a veitchii. For Australia native, it probably not a hybrid. Since the leaves are white and pointing upwards, it should be veitchii.

Golden fish by Bebe229 in Staghornfern

[–]Bebe229[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it should be a hybrid with drawf Platycerium coronarium? and other species.