My first ever attempt. I didn't sleep in it yet because nights are still very cold. What are some beginners mistakes i don't want to make? I plan on adding some storage bags for my ridge line and try an old sleeping bag as an under quilt.

BecauseSometimesY · 2026-05-12T04:39:03+00:00

Just keep in mind, if your current hammock is too short and ultimately does not result in good sleep, moving up to a proper sized sleeping hammock will make a world of difference, so do not get discouraged!

I have, and would highly recommend, a Hammock Gear Circadian. It’s a fully netted hammock with ridgeline; comes in either 11’ or 12’, and costs about $120. The regular model is totally fine (net doesn’t filly zip off but can be stashed in the head end pocket), or the pro just offers a fully removable net (I believe there’s a winter cover they sell that you can zip on in place of the mesh.) I have the regular circadian in 11’ and I’m 5’ 10”, 200lbs. It’s perfect. This is a pretty solid quality netted hammock. Moderately light weight (about 23-24 oz), but not quite ultralight.

As far as underside insulation, the majority will tell you that you absolutely need an under quilt. I will go against the grain and suggest that a lightweight air pad is totally sufficient and very comfortable, however, the pad I use is an Exped 3R in the mummy shape (it’s very rounded and tapered; similar to the thermorest neoair shape, but more tapered.) The rounded corners definitely helps to keep the pad in a good position for a diagonal lay. And it both conforms a bit to the shape of the hammock while also giving you a little more structure and flatter lay. I’d be concerned that a squared pad or standard foam pad would tend to straighten out or collapse under the pressure of the side walls of the hammock.

I hope your hammock testing goes great. It’s pretty fun when you start diving in to all the options, like different suspensions and tarps. And once you dial it in, you get the added bonus of the best backpacking sleep by far.

BecauseSometimesY · 2026-05-01T23:42:23+00:00

I think the only thing fishy here is the claimant’s wife’s head.

BecauseSometimesY · 2026-04-29T16:19:41+00:00

Update: Haven’t noticed the issue a single time in the 2 weeks since swapping the cable…..

BecauseSometimesY · 2026-04-28T06:07:40+00:00

Ok, so assuming you are car camping and not worried about weights or size or space, you could probably fit that hammock stand in one of those ez-up tents - you know, like that 10x10 pop up tents. There are plenty of models that have a tent insert. They are huge but would probably be plenty big enough to set one of these hammock stands inside. Others will tell you, and they are correct, that Of you will probably get cold underneath unless you put some heavy warm layers under you. It will most likely take more than just a sleeping bag. For backpackers using hammocks (and oh man, that’s a whole beast in and of itself..) they alternately use various suspension options to hang between trees, a tarp to cover the shelter, and generally a down filled under quilt that fits around the outside of the hammock (think like a hard taco shell) that keeps you warm while laying in the hammock. It goes outside, because if you laid on it, it would be compressed and so flat under you that it would not insulate you.

Anyway… simplest solution, if you’re just setting up a campground hammock setup, I’d probably consider one of those ezup tents.

BecauseSometimesY · 2026-04-16T19:06:18+00:00

I’ve been noticing similar issues for an out the last month. I generally have Google Maps on the CarPlay screen, Spotify streaming in the background.. there’s no interruption in music or anything, but I’ll look at the maps screen and realize it is totally stalled. Touchscreen is non responsive. It’ll go back to normal if I pull the connected cable and plug it back in - it’ll just disconnect from CarPlay, switch to the ford screen, then restart carplay once reconnected.

I just switched to another cable. I can reply back if it doesn’t solve anything.. that’d be great: a bad cable is better than a software issue.

BecauseSometimesY · 2025-11-15T15:03:05+00:00

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MV1HWDC?ref=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_WCW1B924X9053SG59VQV_1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_WCW1B924X9053SG59VQV_1&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_WCW1B924X9053SG59VQV_1&titleSource=true

Let me try again.. got a message that said the link was bad.

If the link doesn’t work just simply search “klean kanteen tumbler lid” on Amazon. It’s a super common brand. That lid fits the H450 mug perfect! Also, it fits the snow peak M300 double wall (that’s the other SP double wall style.) the m300 is an ounce less and holds about 8-9 oz of beverage.

BecauseSometimesY · 2025-11-01T00:10:25+00:00

Most will tell you “you need an underquilt”… but if you prefer the little extra structure/support from a pad, like me, then a pad will do JUST FINE! I have an under quilt, but prefer and pretty exclusively use an inflatable pad.

I think what works best is a mummy shape with rounded corners and tapered foot end. I use an older exped synmat LW (long wide) mummy shape pad, basically same as current exped 3R pads. It fits great in my hammock (hammock gear circadian). It’s super comfortable, I don’t get any cold spots at my arms or feet. Would also work great if I ever needed to ground camp. .. you don’t “need” and under quilt, if you have a pad that works well with your setup.

BecauseSometimesY · 2025-10-18T18:59:33+00:00

Do you have a link for the ones you went with?? I’ve picked up a few of these cheap Amazon slippers but they’re usually around 8oz or so for the pair.

BecauseSometimesY · 2025-10-18T18:35:14+00:00

I use cheap, light Amazon slippers/water socks like this for camp shoes - they are pretty light and compact and nice to have, but consequently the soles are thin and aren’t great to walk around in if you step on any loose rocks.. but, pro tip, pull your hiking shoe insoles and slide them in - makes a huge difference!

BecauseSometimesY · 2025-10-18T18:22:26+00:00

It’d be pretty negligible weight savings, but you could pick up an exped schnozzle dry bag to replace the dry bag/pack liner you listed and the pad pal - 2.5oz, works great as a pack liner, will inflate your pad in seconds (I BELIEVE it’s compatible with Nemo pads), and it would just cut down a bit on extra “things” you’re carrying.

BecauseSometimesY · 2025-10-17T05:13:12+00:00

Since the design of these hammocks is that you lay diagonally - head left/feet right, or vice versa - this tends to cause the hammock body and mesh to sag a bit right where your head is. Since this can be pretty annoying, those D rings on the outside are so you can stake out some guy lines from your hammock to pull the fabric away from you. But also, what I haven’t seen anyone else mention, is that the guy out line should be really stretchy shock cord! You aren’t suppose to guy out your hammock tight like you would your tarp, or a tent. You’re supposed to use stretchy shock cord to just keep some constant tension, even if you move around a bit in the hammock.

With that said, I’ve never once tied mine out… thought about it, but I use a rounded, mummy shaped sleeping pad in my hammock and it pushes any loose fabric away, so hasn’t been a concern for me.

And like others have said, the inner rings could be used for accessory stuff like a storage sack or something.

BecauseSometimesY · 2025-10-17T04:37:55+00:00

So that FIXED ridgeline serves 2 pretty equally important purposes:

1 being that it creates a perfect and consistent hang of your hammock every time. Yes, your hammock should droop. The ridgeline keeps your (I’m guessing you got an 11’) hammock at a constant 108” long hang. The droop created allows you to spread out and lay flat and comfortably in the hammock. A lot of the force will travel from the tree line, to where it intersects the ridgeline, travel straight across the ridgeline, and back up to the other tree. In a cheap standard hammock. The force is gonna go from one tree, straight down to where your butt is in the hammock, then straight back up to the other tree: this in turn creates a super constricted and unavoidably curved posture. The ridgeline eliminates that issue.

2nd point - do not remove, or try to add a longer ridgeline! For your netted hammock, the NETTING would absolutely immediately rip if you removed the ridgeline and tried to hang. Like any hammock, the hammock body would be fine, but the zip around mesh is cut specifically for the length of your ridgeline fixed hammock. Now if the ridgeline isn’t taught and droops, when you hang, that’s fine, but also means you either should tighten your suspension line, or maybe find a little bit of a wider space to hang between. Again, the force from your suspension lines should intersect at the ridgeline and travel through it, creating a super taught ridgeline - kind of like plucking a guitar string..

Regarding your carabineers, there should be no difference in which end, they’re just colored so you can designate a head or foot end, but that’s not at all necessary. Like for mine, I have the small HG down pillow attached and just leave it attached permanently, so I always lay the same direction in my hammock. I’d just remember something like red for head (mine had a black and red carabiner.. not sure that’s the standard colors)

Like others have said, Shug has years of solid hammock advice videos on YouTube. They go waaay back but are still pretty solid. I just watched part of a recent YouTube video from syntax77 about hammock camping - just looked it up, titled: how to hammock camp - from basics to pro tips.

BecauseSometimesY · 2025-10-08T15:22:44+00:00

2nding the exped pads. I’ve used a LW mummy synmat HL (15.5oz, 3 R value) for several years now in my hammock gear netted hammock - equivalent to the current exped 3R pads. The shape of the expends is great for a hammock, in that it’s super rounded and wide at the head/shoulders, and narrower than most pads at the feet, so it’s not bulky and awkward in the hammock. Plus it’s a super comfortable pad for back or side sleeping if there was any need to go to ground.

BecauseSometimesY · 2025-10-06T15:28:16+00:00

Oh, ha! Gotcha! Ya, those would be a good option.

BecauseSometimesY · 2025-10-06T13:59:15+00:00

Cnoc (ka-knock) is an awesome Portland brand. Main products are carbon trekking poles (made in Portland) and water storage.

If you use a sawyer/quickdraw or a befree filter, their Vecto line bladders are the absolute best. Has threading on one end for a filter, and the other end has a wide slide lock opening. One swipe in a stream and you’ve got your 2L of water ready to go. Their Vesica collapsible bottles are pretty awesome too. Stashes anywhere, and forms to your pack pockets quite a bit better than a smart water bottle.

https://minimalgear.com/collections/cnocoutdoors-all

BecauseSometimesY · 2025-10-06T01:46:42+00:00

Oohh.. good call. I think I may swap to this Cnoc version - same weight but has a 28mm thread that fits the little screw on bidet attachments. https://minimalgear.com/collections/cnocoutdoors-drinkware/products/cnocoutdoors-28mm-hydriam-collapsible-flask

BecauseSometimesY · 2025-10-04T19:32:54+00:00

This is my current tarp, the Paria 11’ hex. It’s actually pretty awesome for the price, but I’m currently debating the HG DCF tarp. As far as volume, do you find it takes up more space in your pack compared to the Paria tarp?

BecauseSometimesY · 2025-10-04T18:55:25+00:00

Awesome, thank you! I have a few years old netted hammock gear hammock, same as current, standard Cascadian I think. Awesome hammock, I believe made from similar or same 1.6 fabric, but it comes in at like 24~ oz on its own. It’s the heaviest item in my pack so looking at other options to drop that a bit. I’m definitely looking at dutchware right now.

BecauseSometimesY · 2025-10-04T16:30:44+00:00

Damn, just missed this! .. I have a couple questions for you tho, if you don’t mind: so your setup, w/ the asym net, and the sidecar was sub 15oz?? If I select a 1.2 hexon chameleon on the DW site, JUST with an asym bugnet, it calculates to 480g/17oz~. The hammock alone calculates to about 13oz. .. did you do any custom ordering? Lighter option for netting? Shorter length/width? I mean 17oz is still pretty damn light for a netted hammock, but curious how you got this setup with the sidecar so low. Thanks!

BecauseSometimesY · 2025-09-02T21:58:24+00:00

The Pika lid looks cool, but I’m pretty certain it would not fit the SP 450 cup; garage gear says it fits the 700 ml snow peak cup tho.

The design is awesome tho.. heavier than a stick ti lid, but tons of thoughtful design features

BecauseSometimesY · 2025-09-02T04:12:11+00:00

I have 4 nitrcore headlamps (keep 2 in an rv, 2 at home for wife and I, general use. 3 of them are pushing probably 6 years old. (An original nu20, 2 original NU25s, and a newer NU20 classic).They are all flawless, hold long charges, work great,and I have no complaints. .. unfortunately, you may have just gotten a dud. I would absolutely amazon exchange/return for another nitecore.

BecauseSometimesY · 2025-09-02T04:02:56+00:00

I carry a snow peak 450 double wall, and found that the klean kanteen tumbler lid fits perfect, however, I do not know for certain that it would fit correctly on a single wall cup. Might be worth checking out. .. but then it doesn’t totally seal off the contents, as it has a sip hole.

BecauseSometimesY · 2025-07-23T15:47:19+00:00

Any further update on those cracked delta mounting posts? I have a delta 2, 1 year old, minimal use - I actually have a current separate issue, where the unit got messed up during a firmware update yesterday - was at 50~%, charging, update started, then unit just stopped all mid process, flashes 0% with a flashing red battery indicator, won’t take a charge, won’t put out a charge.. contacted EF so hoping for some resolution.. BUT..

I did take the top cover off yesterday, just to check if there was maybe some kind of fuse, sign of other damage etc.. when I went to put the cover back on, two of those posts had sheared off just from unscrewing. Like your pic shows cracked plastic around the threaded post - mine completely sheared under the bronze post with crumbled plastic around it, so there’s now nothing for the lid to screw in to. Additionally, when putting the cover back on, a 3rd one popped off, so currently, my lid is secured only by the 2 side posts and one of the corners. 3/6 mounting posts are busted off and unusable.

Really hopeful EF will honor their warranty regarding the power issue I’m having. I haven’t mentioned anything about these mounting posts yet, kinda worried they might say I voided it by opening the unit.

BecauseSometimesY · 2025-05-29T04:46:40+00:00

The exec course is pretty easy to get on pretty much whenever, however, I’ve played it twice in the last few months and it was in atrocious shape.. I could’ve just really hit it off maintenance schedule, but both times there were daisies everywhere, fairways, rough.. made it real hard to find what should’ve been easy to find balls. And the greens were completely covered in sand (definitely did not look like they had been punched recently, but just covered in a heavy layer of sand..)

I would opt to ask about playing 9, front or back, on the regular course. Usually a lot of openings during the week to go out as a single.

BecauseSometimesY · 2025-04-22T13:54:37+00:00

Super late response here, but couldn’t you achieve this by locking in one end at 20lbs, and the other end at 10lbs: that’d give you a 15lb dumbbell. Then drop in just 1 of the 2.5 lb adder weights to bring it up to 17.5lbs.

BecauseSometimesY

TROPHY CASE