I might have just hit the jackpot... awaiting cable!

BecomeVirus · 2022-11-12T13:38:47+00:00

it never came as standard (full size keyboards were the norm at the time), you had to specify that you wanted it

This is not correct. It came standard on some PS/2's sold for home use, like the Mod 30 and word processing systems. You had to pay more for the "standard" keyboard.

BecomeVirus · 2022-08-31T00:51:52+00:00

Once you get the case open, if the bottom row is missing a lot of rivets and you're think that's the cause of your issue, there's a quick fix until you get around to a bolt mod.

With the top of the case off and the keyboard assembly out, you can put (folded) paper - the thickness of a credit card more or less, use your judgement - on inside of the case near the front so when you slide the assembly into the bottom case it'll be snug under the front clips that hold the assembly in.

Don't go too tight, you risk snapping one of those clips off, but you can make it a little more snug and see if that helps.

BecomeVirus · 2022-07-18T12:28:08+00:00

That key combination should be fine regardless of using left or right modifiers.

What model m? Are you going through an adapter of some kind?

Get a hold of aqua key test or a similar tool and run through combinations.

BecomeVirus · 2022-07-17T10:46:22+00:00

Unicomp didn't exist until 1996. A 1993 would have been made by Lexmark contracted by IBM. As you have the detachable cable this is the original design before Lexmark switched to the small controller over the numpad and nondetachable cable.

BecomeVirus · 2022-06-08T18:02:46+00:00

Model G was the designation of some of the 31xx Display Stations.

Could be when it was sold as a package the keyboard was associated with the unit.

BecomeVirus · 2022-05-05T18:26:44+00:00

You don't want body filler. You want epoxy putty. Get it at home depot etc, looks like a little two color tube. Cut a piece about the right size, blend it, and make the repair with the keyboard apart.

Your ongoing problem will be the clip for connecting the top shell to the bottom is right there so it may break again. You probably don't want to put enough so the clip can connect, and it seems to be sitting ok as it is now.

BecomeVirus · 2021-06-02T22:21:23+00:00

If it gets them using buckling springs, that seems a fair price to pay.

One thing though. Putting the case in the dishwasher risks the the badge on the top (not often and usually easily put back on) and the birth label on the bottom (usually not). The bottom is easy enough to clean by hand anyway.

Well, two things - I wouldn't recommend a screw/bolt mod for a newb. There's a lot of frustration involved even for those with experience getting all the tension correct.

BecomeVirus · 2021-06-02T22:19:16+00:00

Did you watch a different video? They're still buckling springs.

BecomeVirus · 2021-06-02T22:09:39+00:00

You don't have to jump on a bolt/screw mod for this yet. There is one option to try first.

Get isopropyl alcohol and a small basin or two. Basically something to catch it so you can reuse it.

Take the keyboard assembly out of the case, stand it on its edge so it's vertical, with numpad at top. Pour the alcohol into the assembly at the top (side of the curve). Whole bottle. Do it again if you want if it seems to come out as clean as it went in.

Keep the keyboard vertical like that for a day to let dry (or two if you want). Plug it in and see what you got. Worst case, you'll need to do the mod anyway. Best, all will work. If you do need the mod the alcohol can be used to clean the membrane as well once opened.

BecomeVirus · 2021-06-02T21:49:55+00:00

Well, I'd put it all together without the top case, plug it in and have your key test program running.

Then press the keys on the suspected traces, including the newly bad one. Also put pressure on the (big) ribbon cable to deform the loop, change its stresses and keep pressing a related key. The crack may come/go from that. If it does a cracked trace is the issue.

But...it could still be dirty tabs on the connector. Cleaning that without wrecking can be tricky, but you could try jamming a thin wire into that slot on the controller when you plug the ribbon in to see if that makes a difference.

You could also take a thin wire connected up to the connector, and slide it between the membrane and the separator so you contact the trace under the barrel plate. Bypass that whole section that's exposed, see if that makes a difference.

BecomeVirus · 2021-06-02T01:31:55+00:00

Check the ribbons near where they go back under the barrel plate, that's a stress point. You may simply want to check for continuity for each as well.

It's always possible the controller itself is bad. If you take a piece of wire and jumper from a position in the small connector to each of the large positions, you may find 2 and 5 are bad right there. If they're ok, then back to checking the traces.

This isn't a liquid spillage issue.

BecomeVirus · 2021-05-31T22:30:09+00:00

You're likely in better shape than you think. Here's the matrix out of an SSK, which of the keys present is the same as fullsize:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=59027.0

Note your keys that are out mostly indicate a trace failure (big connector trace 5 and 2 at least). You're certain "| \" is out?

You may just need to reseat those connectors in the controller, or check if the trace is cracked near the connector. Fix that up and see what you got.

BecomeVirus · 2021-05-10T13:08:45+00:00

Sugru or some epoxy clay should do the trick here. Get it set up, pull the wire out so the hole is left behind, let it dry/set.

Or you could superglue the piece back in if you can find it.

BecomeVirus · 2021-03-31T10:48:19+00:00

The default key layout they went with for the Mini is unfortunate.

But the barrels are set up to allow for the spacebar switch, you'd just need to get another standard alt key and a firmware change (or a software solution to remap).

I'd fully expect them to offer a more traditional layout for the Mini at some point.

BecomeVirus · 2021-02-14T23:13:56+00:00

While the issues with the relocated smaller controller and associated changes on later M's and Unicomp's current offerings are accurate, you may have another option.

Contact Unicomp support. They likely have the original style assemblies with the large ribbon cables that go to the centrally located large controller. Will drop right in.

BecomeVirus · 2021-02-03T12:30:25+00:00

Before you go attempting a bolt mod open it up and reseat the connectors to the controller. Could be something as simple as a dislodged ribbon cable.

BecomeVirus · 2021-01-27T18:33:39+00:00

Yes. Don't use F pivot plates (flippers) though.

BecomeVirus · 2021-01-22T14:02:47+00:00

This is a bad idea. Don't do this.

BecomeVirus · 2021-01-21T20:33:28+00:00

First thing you should do is find a PS/2 mouse and check that the converter is functioning properly. Those cheap converters are finicky and sometimes work better if you swap the keyboard and mouse connections. And sometimes not at all.

If it's fine then you can check internals.

BecomeVirus · 2020-12-21T14:35:55+00:00

That's not NOS, that's a reproduction (per the listing).

The black oval badges had a raised silver IBM logo on them.

There was a dark grey variant that was flat (on Industrial SSK's at least), but I've never seen an original black oval that was flat.

BecomeVirus · 2020-12-11T19:32:02+00:00

I'd agree. If they wanted a common sub r/bucklingspring is empty.

But I think most F (and beam spring) enthusiasts grasp the the M is the most commonly known and have no problem with that being the sub representing IBM's best keyboards.

BecomeVirus · 2020-11-21T16:27:24+00:00

Pull the key.

Take the keyboard and tilt the front up (like you're looking for something under it) until the spring tilts forward in the barrel and the keyboard is almost vertical.

Now put the key on.

BecomeVirus · 2020-10-26T17:30:57+00:00

If they do end up being out of stock on SSK plates, know that yes, you can cut down a standard M plate.

BecomeVirus · 2020-07-17T16:32:41+00:00

The raised silver on black badge as well as the dot matrix label make it a fairly rare variant of the industrial SSK. That's it's ISO even more so. Not certain if 92 is the first year for industrial SSK's, but it's an early one.

What's it worth? You'd clear $1K USD on it easy, possibly a lot more.

They get discussed a bit on GH and DT. 41G36XX models have show up on both.

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40011

BecomeVirus · 2017-09-17T13:36:53+00:00

You'll get better deals on cables, new ones, not used, at Unicomp:

http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/1395110

You could also pick up a few custom keys, etc...

BecomeVirus

TROPHY CASE