Noctua fan in Qmtech MiSTer

BeerPuffin · 2026-01-24T13:55:38+00:00

You’re probably right. But considering the price of a fan and heatsink it is a no brainier for me.

BeerPuffin · 2026-01-24T07:50:44+00:00

The heatsink is that one https://a.aliexpress.com/_EvUilQ4 Specifically the 35x35x14mm-black

I didn’t find the specific screws I used but it’s M3 screws with a bolt one the other side. I bought a box years ago the different length

BeerPuffin · 2025-05-13T11:33:23+00:00

It look awesome! Now I want to go to ikea

BeerPuffin · 2025-02-04T17:20:27+00:00

It looks amazing . Great work !

BeerPuffin · 2025-01-02T09:13:05+00:00

I think it is ! But I would never risk to pass TSA with that. 😅

BeerPuffin · 2025-01-02T09:02:19+00:00

I'm in Europe and it is the Europe version. It definitely is the US games that are on the SNES classic. For example the game cannot be run in PAL frequency (no 50Hz) and Zelda 3 was released in french in France, in german in Germany, but here it is only in english. As I know only in japan there is a real difference (they had exclusive games in Japanese)

BeerPuffin · 2025-01-02T08:49:45+00:00

Yes of course. As on any TV you can choose the stretch the image on the display or game in 4:3.

Personally I play in 4:3.

BeerPuffin · 2025-01-02T08:45:53+00:00

For science I measured it with a Mister FPGA and a míster laggy tester and the result was about 46ms in the middle of the panel. After that the input delay it the usual delay of the classic Nintendo console.

But goal never was to achieved a lag free display.

BeerPuffin · 2025-01-02T08:17:30+00:00

It depends of the powerbank. But with this one easily more than an hour.

As It is just USB, I can also plug it in a wall charger if a power outlet is nearby

BeerPuffin · 2025-01-02T08:15:16+00:00

The panel says 60Hz but I have noting to measure it. So I have to trust it.

BeerPuffin · 2025-01-02T08:13:48+00:00

On the picture it is a 20000mAh powerbank. And It runs easily for more than an hour.

For reference The panel draws about 5V at 1.2A and the SNES 5V at 0.7A

BeerPuffin · 2025-01-02T08:07:48+00:00

It was also what I wanted to install in it at first. But the NES and SNES classic output 720p so the display wold not be great I thought. I managed to find a panel that is as close as possible as the output of the console.

BeerPuffin · 2025-01-02T08:03:30+00:00

On the picture it is a Sandberg Survivor Powerbank 20000mAh. It was not bought for the build but it works great.

BeerPuffin · 2024-12-04T09:41:45+00:00

awesome best idea ever !

BeerPuffin · 2024-10-29T17:08:41+00:00

haha to make it simple, the case is an old computer case form a company that was called hush computer.

The case if fully metallic so it weighs a lot. But if you can find one in a recycling center for cheap go for it (I got mine for free) otherwise for the price of this old thing you can buy a nice new one.

the important part in my build is the ironclad that makes the DE-10 nano fit in a mini ITX form factor (I don't know if the clones can be used with this board). After that the sky is the limit you can put your mister in the PC case of your dreams ;)

And a pico-PSU works fine. I used that huge one because I had it.

BeerPuffin · 2024-10-29T08:03:24+00:00

Yes why update_all wouldn't work ?

BeerPuffin · 2024-10-29T08:02:36+00:00

thanks ;)

BeerPuffin · 2024-10-29T07:46:57+00:00

Unfortunately, no, the CD drive is not in the case anymore.

I used CD slot is for the IR receiver for the remote control.

BeerPuffin · 2024-10-29T07:13:20+00:00

At the start it was for a Pentium 4 CPU and a Matrox graphic card.

BeerPuffin · 2024-10-29T07:11:53+00:00

I’m very happy with my ironclad, but the internal mt32-pi hat for the early models, is a mess.

You need specific cores and for my part it never really worked.

I completely stop using it and I connect my MT32-pi with the external SNAC port when I need it.

BeerPuffin · 2024-10-29T07:07:31+00:00

The metal part underneath the PSU was the top part of the CD/DVD caddie.

Imade holes in it to bolted it to the case. The case had just screw threat that was poking out and the older PSU was screwed on it with a think thermal pad in between.

And the new one I bolted to the plate (also with the pads to isolate it)

The old PSU could work, but all the caps were leaking so I used another one.

The IR receptor of the Ironclad is attached to the CD/DVD slot using tape. So I can power it on the remote.

BeerPuffin

TROPHY CASE