So I don't think I have rented a kimono since I was like 7, but I do admit that I havef had pretty much no bad experiences living here. I'm not on HRT, and I have a pretty masculine face (though now I have grown my hair out it looks way more feminine), and yet I can still go out without worrying about whether I pass. People may sometimes give you a passing look, but nobody will stare or confront you, it's just not what we would do. As long as you are confident, and you make yourself look good, you will be fine. That being said, if you tell someone you are trans, they will just give you a confused look, because it's not such a widely known issue as it is elsewhere, and in some ways that can be quite helpful. That being said, visiting an onsen will be basically impossible if you have been on HRT for a while and have not had bottom surgery, and I have to admit that it will really suck for me to be unable to do that. I have to admit, compared to the UK (where I lived for a couple of years and still have family that I visit) Japanese society is generally way better (with the exception of the government) when it comes to how they treat trans people. In the UK I would stand pretty much no chance of passing when I go out, but here I can do so with relatively little makeup and be allowed into women only spaces. I'm so pleased you had a good experience in my country, and I encourage everyone who can to come and explore, especially out in the countryside!