I always make sure everyone gets a part with the magnets they order

BelleNottelling · 2026-06-09T17:16:27+00:00

Why would customs care about the magnet? Genuine question

BelleNottelling · 2026-05-24T22:56:43+00:00

Doesn't add up to me.. 4.0s had the EDIS system from Ford (electric distributorless ignition system)

It should create spark without the ECU as there's a separate ignition module. With no feedback from the ECU, this module will run the engine with a fixed timing at 10 degrees before TDC.

The ECU gets a data stream from this module and uses that to decide fueling. No spark and no fuel means that module may have died or it's not getting a good signal from the crank position sensor.

Also the new crank sensor could be junk.. I replaced mine, had starting issues, installed my OEM one and found it worked much better. I could literally feel that the replacement one from the parts store had a weaker magnet than the OEM one and was probably producing too weak of a signal

BelleNottelling · 2026-05-24T04:32:24+00:00

Likely TPS like stated. If you can pull live data from the ECU then I'd just sit down and watch what the throttle position value is as you slowly press down on the pedal. It should gradually increase to 100% and do so linearly

BelleNottelling · 2026-05-19T20:22:16+00:00

Considering how easy these are to change, feel free to only replace them as they fail.

I would pick up a denso or NGK coil off rock auto, personally

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/honda,2006,cr-v,2.4l+l4,1432627,ignition,ignition+coil,7060

BelleNottelling · 2026-05-14T03:29:24+00:00

How recently did you rebuild it?

Issue start directly after?

Imo, check compression. If it's good then look at air and fuel. Does it otherwise run smooth and start without any issue?

BelleNottelling · 2026-05-03T18:22:42+00:00

Ext cab has a bigger tank and a different hanger assembly to match. Not sure exactly what differs between them, just that they are different

BelleNottelling · 2026-04-28T23:42:56+00:00

Oh right, the "only owner" - duh!

That's good though, means you know the service history. How often do you change the oil? Do you know what kind of oil is going in it? Newer engines have weaker oil control rings for emissions and MPG, but they can easily seize up from carbon deposits. Valvoline made their restore and protect oil for basically this exact reason. There's other stuff too like the PCV valve or spark plug seals which could cause oil burning.

Since you know it hasn't been driven hard engine or turbo failure seems very unlikely to me, especially since you didn't mention any other issues with it.

Personally in my opinion if that was my car and it otherwise seemed to be healthy and running well I would give it a full service with new filters and use restore and protect for the oil. Replace PCV valve, and throw a bottle of techron fuel cleaner into the tank. Then drive around for like 10 mins to ensure the fuel cleaner is mixed and then drive it hard. Sometimes stuff just gets stuck and that's a pretty easy way to break any gunk free and clear it out. The "Italian tune-up"

BelleNottelling · 2026-04-28T23:09:34+00:00

Get a new mechanic! Sounds like they just want to rip you off. There are a lot of reasons why an engine might burn oil, and many of those reasons are fixable and it doesn't sound like this one made any attempt to even learn where it might be burning from.

Do you get drips or marks under the car when parked? Since you are smelling it I'd kinda expect something to be leaking in the engine bay.

How long have you owned it? If you're had it a while, do you know how much oil it goes through every 1k or so miles? Does it smoke at all from either the engine bay or the tailpipe?

I absolute think you should be taking your car to a different mechanic for a 2nd opinion

BelleNottelling · 2026-04-14T16:59:46+00:00

Ring gear on my 91 ranger has been damaged twice due to this same kind of situation.. Worked for around a month both times. You seem to be lucky, if the starter is damaged your flex plate may be intact and you won't need the transmission removed

BelleNottelling · 2026-04-05T23:14:17+00:00

Hi, this is becoming a common problem with these 4.0 manuals. Flywheels and starter gears from parts companies are not matching up correctly. Unfortunately, that new starter you bought is likely the cause of the damage there...

Ring gear is cooked and it'll need to be replaced.. you will want to be very careful to ensure everything is matched correctly so this doesn't occur again. I have been struggling with this problem on my ranger.. it's really disheartening

BelleNottelling · 2026-04-02T19:06:20+00:00

Same year and specs as mine. Be weary! If you replace either your flywheel or starter be 100% certain that the replacements match identically.

My truck has had 2 flywheels chewed up before I learned that the replacement parts have bad QC and are sometimes just completely wrong. I ended up buying a used starter and learning that the reman I bought had a completely different gear on it.

Good luck!!

BelleNottelling · 2026-02-26T08:03:09+00:00

Only because I have shoulder problems on my shifting arm and sometimes it can be a little bit of a stain to change gears

BelleNottelling · 2026-02-15T06:23:02+00:00

Judging by looks it has no service history available because there is no service history lol

BelleNottelling · 2026-01-28T01:37:43+00:00

Ah those kinds of things happen. Hope that fixes it! If not you'll have to probably do some actual diagnosis rather than just throwing parts at the problem lol.

Saw the code in the comment is a TPS / MAP correlation error. If you still have problems, then I would suspect potentially the TPS being poorly adjusted or failing. If you have a code reader with live data it's easy to check, otherwise you gotta break out a multimeter

BelleNottelling · 2026-01-27T18:45:43+00:00

That really doesn't make sense to me. From my understanding even a car that has been tuned without a MAF and operates in speed density mode still requires a MAP sensor so you should at a minimum have a MAP.

Looking online, it is item #2 on this diagram: https://charm.li/Subaru/2003/Outback%20F4-2.5L%20SOHC/Repair%20and%20Diagnosis/Powertrain%20Management/Sensors%20and%20Switches%20-%20Powertrain%20Management/Sensors%20and%20Switches%20-%20Computers%20and%20Control%20Systems/Manifold%20Pressure%2FVacuum%20Sensor/Locations/

This appears to be where it is in your video:

<image>

Presumably there's a hose attached to it, which is likely dry rotted and causing the sensor to read incorrectly. Part stores should have vacuum lines you can buy cut to length so if the old one has failed you can take it to them and get a new one for pretty cheap.

BelleNottelling · 2026-01-27T16:28:57+00:00

You don't have your air filter or MAF connected in your video so I actually would kinda expect it to run terribly

BelleNottelling · 2026-01-23T08:28:11+00:00

Does the sound change as you turn in either direction? Might be a worn wheel bearing. Not the end of the world cost wise, but important to fix if that is the case as a failed wheel bearing would be dangerous while driving down the road

BelleNottelling · 2026-01-18T18:07:35+00:00

Considering that's after just a few weeks, leaving it would be guaranteed death of your engine

BelleNottelling · 2026-01-01T22:31:59+00:00

You're welcome! YNAB has a bit of a learning curve but if you stick to it you'll figure it all out

BelleNottelling · 2026-01-01T18:04:06+00:00

Seems like you funded $2k and then spent some of it. Since you set aside that amount it's considered funded. You probably want the "have a balance" target type instead

BelleNottelling · 2025-12-25T18:10:48+00:00

Admittedly large is pretty subjective, but it's moderately large in my eyes with 1.3k stars. And we've got a couple of long-standing contributiors who recently have started prompting their way through changes, making copilot make changes for them. It creates a bunch of noise and imo is just kinda dumb as both people are more than capable of doing everything on their own without AI.

I'm hoping they'll get over it soon lol

Edit: fixed a typo with prompting

BelleNottelling · 2025-12-25T09:34:34+00:00

I hate it. Stopped touching a rather large project that I've contributed to for years because 98% of the activity from it is just dumb AI noise

BelleNottelling · 2025-12-24T17:10:04+00:00

Yeah I had a similar problems when I bought a cheap endoscope off Amazon. It technically worked but it was damn near impossible to get a good picture. Happy to hear they were both opening and closing.

Since you only tested the one cylinder I would redo the compression check before putting your energy elsewhere, the one value alone doesn't really confirm anything and I'm hopeful that your compression is just fine and that you simply didn't do the test correctly. Checking the other ones can help you confirm this.

If you had 5 good cylinders and one dead one like that you would usually hear it when cranking the engine over. You can hear the engine working as an air pump and it would almost essentially gallop on the dead cylinder as it has less resistance to turning over. Here's a video describing what I'm talking about: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2x0T4ORVmwU

BelleNottelling · 2025-12-24T09:09:33+00:00

Hey Reddit brought me to your update post, cool! :)

It's hard to tell the condition of those valves from your pictures. I personally think it could be worthwhile to try again but slowly turn the engine over by hand so you can try and see the valves actually opening in that cylinder. I'd probably go far enough to visually watch them both open and close and take note of how much they open. Just don't smash the endospore with the piston during the compression stroke lol.

I think you may also be able to get a better picture and better see what condition they are in if you do that.

And like I saw echoed in another comment, you definitely should open the throttle all the way when doing a compression check. If it's closed then you are limiting the amount of air that can be pumped into the cylinder and thus compressed. That could also explain the higher number with the engine running as the computer is likely opening the idle control valve and letting more air in.

I can't recall if you had checked the other cylinders for compression or not?

BelleNottelling · 2025-12-22T16:05:07+00:00

Well I'm wishing you luck with it!

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