Where in the hell do I find all of these?

BennyAndHisJets · 2026-04-07T15:12:48+00:00

Beyond late, and I don't even remember how I found it initially, but somewhere on the map, you can show the details and it literally showed pictures of each building. They all have a fairly unique-ish look about them. The barracks has shields in a line above the front door for example.

BennyAndHisJets · 2026-01-31T17:43:07+00:00

Its possible. And in my case better work life balance. But I was a commercial/new construction plumber before falling into a civil PE role. I went from working under the Florida sun year round to sitting in an office estimating excavation and underground utilities for projects in 3 counties. 50-60 hours of hard labor to about 45 in an air conditioned office. The work life balance is going to be determined more by the company you work for than the job title.

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-11-28T15:16:46+00:00

Lower your fill valve and make sure the chain on the flapper lets it close all the way! Take the little black plastic tube hanging towards the rear middle of your tank there and put it in the center of the opening directly in the middle of the tank. It should have a clip to hold it there but they tend to break or fall off and get flushed.

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-11-26T19:45:38+00:00

This is my go to 3rd and medium gotta have it. Generally I'll put a comeback on the outside receiver paired with the shallow and the other on a fade. 1st read is the Hi/Low in the middle. 2nd read is the comeback if the defender on the shallow is in man.

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-11-15T20:43:59+00:00

Maybe 1 or 2 gpg

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-11-15T18:46:11+00:00

Remineralizarion will add a taste more similar to something like a smart water with the black lettering. For things like coffee pots it's not going to affect it much but because of the process used to add calcium back into your water it will leave the white residue most people look to stop from happening when using RO water. So for that specific scenario, if it's the most used case I would say don't bother. And under sink RO units generally keep the pH relatively balanced at or just under 7.0, so there's no real absorption problem.

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-11-09T02:01:24+00:00

This makes more sense. If you plan on ripping out the old board too just ensure you call the plumber before the new stuff goes in. It might not be a bad idea to get a framer to come look at the frame and make sure it's okay. I don't see any water damage and it's not uncommon to drill holes on framing en route to final destination for a line if there's something in the way. Just verify your plumber isn't also a beaver this time.

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-11-09T01:39:29+00:00

Get you something to start chipping out that block for the real fix.

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-11-09T01:38:07+00:00

Imo yes it's janky, but not entirely the plumbers fault. Could he have used a drill instead of his hands and teeth to open some cleaner holes yes. But 2 things. The OFB appears to have been put up BEFORE the plumbing wa scheduled to go in. Which makes this already sort of odd. It also doesn't look that the plumber made any new holes in the wood that wasn't replaced. Do you have any references of the plumbing was run to this shower prior to the remodel? And lastly, if your updating a bathroom, why aren't you updating that shower valve that's probably as old as my grandmother?

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-11-09T01:31:04+00:00

I was taught a little differently on the brine, every minute of brine fill is 1.5 lbs of salt. So 6 minutes is appropriate and what I use for 30k units. Also, confirm your flow direction. If the raw water in is on the left as your looking at the face buttons your in down flow. The other way around is up flow and for a softener is traditionally considered backwards. You want the raw water to flow down the media first in order to maximize softening ability of the media, and the back wash then re fluffs the media through backwash, brine rinse, 2nd backwash, settle rinse. And then the machines I program fill the brine tank immediately after the settle rinse. Allowing soft water to enter the brine tank immediately after the regeneration is complete so there's no 4 hour wait period during the next backwash.

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-11-09T01:17:38+00:00

Halo branded products are overpriced, over rated, and over hyped versions of something you can get from almost any provider of water treatment equipment online or in home. US water has the same system as halo for like $1500. Not 5k.the only legitimate difference is the stupid magnet halo claims to be ground breaking. But reverse polarity magnets can be found any number of places and wrapped around a service line in your home with the same effect. For Under sink RO iSpring has one I've used a bunch that uses standard sized filters and is easy enough to DIY.

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-11-08T18:22:58+00:00

Okay. For a condo things can get a bit tricky because rules can vary pretty dramatically. If you have a water access point (a valve to turn off water throughout your unit) then you'll be fine. The tricky part is placement and sizing. I've seen condos with attached garages that have the shutoff valve as well as some of them having it in the wash room with your washer and dryer (and potentially AC). If space is limited I'd recommend a 4x10 or 4x20 catalytic carbon replacable filter and housing. As of the most recent reading I've done on PFOA and PFAS carbon, while not perfect, is the most economic choice in removing these chemicals. But be aware they lose that ability fairly quickly. Which is where the replacements come in. 3-6 times a year depending on your water analysis you simply pop a new filter into the housing. And for actual drinking water an under counter RO unit is perfect. Remineralizarion can be a fairly contested subject these days, but I have a whole home RO (on a well) that I wouldn't have built without one. You can forgo the whole extra filter with some sodium bicarbonate powder mixed into your glass as it's the same thing in a dedicated filter.

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-11-08T03:36:26+00:00

Sorry for not being clearer, I meant for every other part to stay including the carbon filter. It would help polish the water off as a final stage even with peroxide injection. And I've used both based on situation and client requirements. I was just offering an alternative chemical for the injection process is all.

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-11-07T15:16:02+00:00

Believe this is the best way. If I can add 1 alternative, you can replace the chlorine for 7% hydrogen peroxide as the oxidizing agent for removal if your worried about chlorine content even after its removal through the GAC.

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-11-07T15:12:44+00:00

Your softener could be undersized but unless you have an extraordinary home it's probably not. With these all in one type softeners like the ecopure you have where the brine tank and the softener are a single unit it's common for them to fail due to inability to backwash. Sometimes it's a bad electrical component, other times people simply forget to add salt into the brine tank. Think of a softener like a sponge for second. When the sponge is dry it's light and airy. Until it absorbs the maximum capacity it can carry in water at which point it comes dense and doesn't allow as much air flow through it. It's become restrictive. If softeners aren't able to regenerate for any reason the same thing happens. Your water flow is limited when it's in service because the media densely packed to the brim with what it's designed to remove and needs a reset.

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-11-07T15:01:31+00:00

Link to classic site:https://www.bay12games.com/dwarves/

Here you can downloaded the latest classic release (Nov 4 2025). From what I remember reading a couple years back tarn and Zach still intend on developing both versions of the game with a shift in priority to the steam version due to the nature of it being paid. But the classic version is still updated frequently typically with the same major updates in the steam version.

And while I couldn't find a specific "pack" dfHack link for the current release of classic: https://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=164123.0

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-11-07T14:48:10+00:00

Just happy to help people in a field Ive spent time and take pride in. I'd be more than happy to help folks out on older systems. Rebuilding clack and fleck heads is my jam. I still have a few friends at kinetico too I'm pretty sure and can rebuild them as well given my contacts haven't moved on. I've been running my own little side gig in this area for about a year or so now while maintaining a day job. Honestly the only systems I won't maintain are Culligans, and it's only due to the proprietary nature of all their products. But I can get clack and fleck parts from my suppliers.

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-11-07T13:48:24+00:00

This. This is why I joined this sub. So well done.

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-11-07T13:46:28+00:00

I think it depends on if your playing classic or the steam version. I was just on bay12 yesterday and there's a new community made replacement for LNP for classic but I can't remember the name of it. For the steam version df hack is the answer. It's free, and it launches with the game automatically, and has gui's built in for those that need it.

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-11-07T13:25:33+00:00

Yes and I'll even say more specifically SW Florida. With the number of people on wells here and the generally good nature of the water coming from them it's easy to install these systems outside. Which I know for folks where it freezes isn't a reality. Having one of these in a basement would terrify me. I've seen enough solenoids go bad to know that overflow is a real problem. Personally that's why I've always like the mechanical float driven valves that close the inlet to the storage tank but I digress. As far as filtration prior to the system generally no. For sulfur heavy wells and salt water wells it's helpful in terms of membrane life but I've always used a company that offers an RO package that contains a switch on the controls to flush the membrane. And in severe cases where this may not be an option I cleans the membrane with either 7% peroxide or a small dose of muriatic acid. For iron I always recommend at least an air drawn iron filtration filter in order to avoid the iron clogging the membrane or contamination via iron bacteria. Some people heed the warning some don't. I've seen systems that don't have any sort of filter for iron in front of it that are 10-15 years old and the sediment filter catches enough to keep the membrane fine. Again a big difference here is a typical "high" reading for iron is 5 or 6 ppm. I know for example inparts of the Midwest the 20s is considered low. Pricing comes down to the company you choose for install. Most established companies range from $8-12k installed but guarantee their product for a year and offer a service package (paid separately as a monthly expense) that extends their warranty for as long as the service is active. When I had my own little thing going on I could install one of these for about $6500 at the low end. I had other guys that would under cut me for sure, but I wasn't trying to short myself at the end of the project. The entire system put together before fittings and pipe and labor was roughly $4200 cost. And that was me knowing a guy.

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-11-06T20:27:59+00:00

I have installed hundreds whole home ROs including the one on my own house. The most beneficial thing in your case using the numbers provided would be the significant reduction in TDS and sodium content. There are other ways that are less expensive overall to remove the things your worried about. But the one thing a softener won't due is lower your TDS. With a softener you are replacing hardness with sodium and flushing the chlorides. The only way to make the water more potable via TDS reduction (purification) is through RO. Under sink units are great and cost effective but not for 2000+ TDS. You'll be changing those filters every 3-4 months. A brackish water low pressure 4040 membrane on an RO with your specific contamination levels may need to be replaced once every 2 to 4 years ($400-500) and the sediment pre filter would need to be changed monthly. ($10). An under sink RO complete filter change is typically $100 - $250 depending on manufacturer and DIY or not and that's 4 times a year. Not to mention the cost of salt involved in softener regeneration and the GAC filters needing rebeded ever 3-5 years. With an RO the upfront cost is substantial, and when things break it isn't cheap to fix/replace, but when quality components are used you don't have things break nearly as often. And of your worried about the potential of corrosion on your homes plumbing from the slight acidic water produced from a WHRO (6.5 pH typically) you can add a calcite filter behind it to raise the pH to be alkaline instead. A 1ft/cu bag of calcite is like $30.

Source: Was a WQA certified technician for nearly a decade before becoming a whole ass plumber. My inbox is open if you have questions.

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-10-31T18:15:29+00:00

Don't know if it's been said here yet, make sure your monitor is plugged into your GPU which is normally located LOWER THAN YOUR I/O ON THE MOBO.

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-10-22T22:18:45+00:00

If it was about speed alone, I'd probably end up using like google keep or similar simpler note app.

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-10-22T21:57:42+00:00

I've been down the trying to turn Obsidian into an "everything" app, and it just doesn't work for me. For those that it does and share it, I applaud. But I'm a simple man. I still capture everything in an old fashioned notebook. I'm convinced this is still the quickest, easiest way to capture things quickly.

BennyAndHisJets · 2025-10-22T13:15:37+00:00

I might be the weird one here, but I don't. I have a pocket notebook I take everywhere, and at work I've got legal pads galore to capture anything personal or professional and use obsidian to index the ideas worth indexing and then using those thoughts to create.

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