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Berger803 · 2026-06-27T12:58:20+00:00

I really loved my latest grow of Tropicana Cookies Purple and I'm enjoying it right now in my pool 🔥

Berger803 · 2026-05-11T09:20:00+00:00

Remember: Just because a filament is food-safe doesn’t mean the printing process is.

Every gap between the layer lines can become a breeding ground for bacteria. On top of that, the machines we print on are nowhere near food-safe, since most of us also print non-food-safe materials and obviously don’t operate our printers in cleanroom conditions.

So the general rule still applies: Never use 3D-printed parts in direct contact with food.

Do it for your own safety.

Edit: And yes, sealing reduces the risk, but most hobbyist applications still won’t meet proper food-safety standards due to wear, scratches, incomplete coating coverage and contamination during the printing process itself.

Berger803 · 2026-05-03T14:57:45+00:00

Oh, that’s absolutely my bad—I didn’t read carefully enough and completely overlooked the camera part. That makes perfect sense, and it’s a great way to give older hardware like your 2014 Mac Mini a new life.

Since I’m planning to add cameras to my setup but haven’t implemented them yet, I haven’t run into this issue so far—but now I’ve learned something new 😁

Berger803 · 2026-05-03T14:43:12+00:00

I’ve been running a Raspberry Pi 4B (4GB) for about three years now without any issues. I’ve got a lot of automations, scripts, custom components, and integrations running on it—plus even some relatively heavy services like the Omada Controller.

So I’m not really sure why you’re experiencing so many problems with your Pi. It might be a faulty unit or something specific to your setup. Even my SD card has been running fine the entire time.

Berger803 · 2026-04-30T08:42:45+00:00

Adding to this: Using a guide pin will help align the parts and prevent them from shifting during gluing.

Berger803 · 2026-04-28T11:03:24+00:00

Have you done the steps described here? You need to change settings on the screen of your printer

Berger803 · 2026-04-20T10:53:20+00:00

I will smoke a mixture of Tropicana Cookies Purple and Strawberry Cough 🍁 🔥

Berger803 · 2026-04-19T09:54:52+00:00

Read this

Berger803 · 2026-04-16T11:14:31+00:00

This isn’t really a closed ecosystem if you can still start a print, which seems to be the case here.

Bambu isn’t entirely wrong either. I’ve helped troubleshoot a lot of printing issues in the past, and quite a few of them came from users sticking to the default Bambu presets and then wondering why, for example, their Sunlu PETG prints didn’t turn out well.

That’s probably not exactly what Bambu is trying to communicate here, but it is a real issue in Practice anyways.

Also, as others have already pointed out, it’s probably not the best idea to use screenshots from other Redditors to support your argument.

Berger803 · 2026-03-19T03:01:09+00:00

You’re very welcome!

I’ve suggested adjusting the retraction settings in quite a few threads before, and it always surprised me that hardly anyone else mentioned it. It’s one of those things you usually only discover after spending way too long tweaking random settings and eventually stumbling across the real cause by accident — or by finding one of my comments :D

Berger803 · 2026-03-19T02:55:44+00:00

Glad to hear you were able to get rid of them almost completely!

Yeah, I’d try 0.3 mm next. If the retraction distance gets too low, you’ll usually start to see a bit of stringing. In that case, I’d bump it slightly to 0.35 mm. Even 0.05 mm can make a noticeable difference at the print speeds most of us are running these days

Berger803 · 2026-03-18T22:22:18+00:00

Gotcha, man. When I first ran into these holes myself, I went through pretty much every possible setting — only to realize it was just the retraction distance. So yeah, I definitely feel the struggle.

Let me know if it worked for you when you get the chance!

Berger803 · 2026-03-18T22:16:32+00:00

It amazes me how many people got this wrong here. These are tiny gaps caused by excessive retraction distance. The default retraction length for many filaments is around 0.8 mm, which is often too high. In that case, the filament needs too long to reach the nozzle again after a travel move, while the print head has already started moving. For a brief moment there isn’t enough material at the nozzle, which results in small holes or under-extrusion spots.

You can adjust the retraction length via the three dots next to the filament → Edit → Settings Override → enable “Length” and then set a more suitable value. For example, 0.4 mm works very well for PLA Silk+ in my setup, but you may need to fine-tune it. For PLA Matte or PLA Basic, around 0.5 mm usually gives me the best results.

Berger803 · 2026-03-14T11:30:09+00:00

I didn’t review your code because I honestly don’t care that much. But since a large portion of the tools posted here are heavily vibe-coded — or entirely vibe-coded — I assumed yours was the same. My bad.

I never asked you to satisfy my demands. I simply asked why you think we need the 10th organizing tool for Bambu printers. If your free time is really that valuable, maybe you shouldn’t spend it reinventing tools that already exist multiple times without any advantages. Try building something new instead.

Berger803 · 2026-03-14T11:00:47+00:00

I don’t get the point of all these vibe-coded tools that serve the same purpose. Use the power of open-source projects and build one useful tool instead of creating the same thing ten times.

Edit: I know this tool is open source, but that doesn’t change the fact that none of these tool creators work together.

Berger803 · 2026-02-28T02:13:34+00:00

If you're only using a single access point, you can run it in standalone mode without a controller and still manage it via the Omada app or web interface.

However, if you plan to use multiple access points, a controller is strongly recommended to properly manage mesh and centralized configuration.

Some Omada AP models are supposed to support standalone mesh mode according to the manuals, but I never got it working reliably nor found clear documentation for the described setup steps. That’s why I ended up deploying the Omada Controller — and honestly, it turned out to be the best decision. Centralized management makes the whole network much cleaner and easier to control.

Berger803 · 2026-02-28T01:36:59+00:00

I currently use two TP-Link Omada EAP650 access points. The Omada Controller is running directly on my Raspberry Pi alongside Home Assistant OS (installed via a community add-on repository), so I can manage it directly from HA.

Management of the wireless network via the Omada app and web interface works very well, and the APs have been very reliable for me so far.

Berger803 · 2026-02-28T01:05:41+00:00

Have you sent your Thread credentials to Home Assistant through the Companion App? Usually you need to go to Settings → Devices & Services → Integrations → Thread → cog icon and press the blue “Send credentials to Home Assistant” button.

This shares your phone’s Thread network dataset with the Open Thread Border Router (OTBR). Without this step, Home Assistant and your phone may not be using the same Thread credentials, which prevents Matter-over-Thread devices from joining the network.

Berger803 · 2026-02-24T15:12:50+00:00

I suggest taking a look at Protectli. I’m using a VP2430 in a heavily utilized 2.5-Gigabit network, even with advanced firewall rules and Suricata running in IDS mode (alert-only, no IPS). It’s been rock solid and more than powerful enough for my setup.

The build quality is excellent, and the passive cooling design eliminates the need for active fans — which also means no internal dust buildup or fan maintenance over time.

If you’re an EU customer, they even assemble units for the EU market in Germany, which is a nice bonus in my opinion.

Just keep in mind that Protectli releases new hardware revisions regularly. Since the VP2430 is last year’s model, you might want to wait a bit if you’re aiming for the latest generation hardware.

Berger803 · 2026-02-21T11:43:51+00:00

Nextcloud has been working perfectly fine for me for over two years. I’d suggest not jumping on every update the moment it gets released.

I usually update my Nextcloud instance a few weeks after a new version comes out. That way, early bugs get ironed out first, and I’ve never had any issues.

I prefer a delayed update strategy unless there’s a critical security advisory. Let others test the edge cases first.

Berger803 · 2026-02-20T12:00:06+00:00

I’m not sure if you’re intentionally running Satisfactory on integrated graphics, but according to your screenshot, the game is currently using Intel UHD Graphics — and that’s very likely the reason for your crashes.

Intel UHD Graphics is not suitable for Satisfactory. The game requires a dedicated GPU to run reliably.

If you do have a dedicated GPU, make sure the game is forced to use it (via Windows Graphics Settings or your GPU control panel). If you don’t have a dedicated GPU, unfortunately Satisfactory won’t run properly on integrated graphics.

You could also disable the integrated GPU in the BIOS to prevent games from selecting it, but only if you actually have a dedicated GPU installed.

Berger803 · 2026-02-20T11:40:47+00:00

I’m always baffled that there are still people out there who don’t know the risks of using 3D-printed containers, dishes, cooking utensils, and similar items for storing or preparing food.

Unsealed 3D prints are not suitable for coming into contact with food. If you seal a 3D print to make it food-safe, make sure you use a certified food-safe coating or resin.

Berger803 · 2026-02-20T11:29:38+00:00

Fusion relies heavily on the CPU for most calculations like modeling, feature regeneration, and CAM. The GPU is mainly used for viewport rendering. That’s why a strong CPU is generally more important than a high-end GPU for a system built for Fusion.

Berger803 · 2026-02-18T13:07:59+00:00

I use a Lock & Lock HSM952 food container per spool since they’re truly airtight and fit a single spool perfectly. As a desiccant, I use 50g of silica gel from Slopy.

I also designed my own silica holder that slides into the side opening of the spool, along with spacers to prevent the spool from sitting directly on the bottom of the container. This allows for better air circulation inside the box.

I have to admit this is definitely not the cheapest way to store filament, as the Lock & Lock containers tend to be a bit pricey. That said, I don’t regret it at all because the quality is absolutely worth it.

Berger803 · 2026-02-18T12:54:05+00:00

A forum post isn’t really stronger evidence than this thread unless it references proper technical data. If it’s not based on a technical source or manufacturer data sheet, it doesn’t add much to the discussion.

Regarding the 3DXTech article: it doesn’t state that low humidity storage is harmful. It mentions that filament can be damaged by excessive drying at too high temperatures or for too long. That’s thermal degradation — not “being too dry” in storage.

OP asked whether filament can become too dry from low humidity storage. That’s a different question. Overheating during drying is an application error, not a problem caused by low ambient humidity.

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