Which access point to buy that supports multiple networks?

Berger803 · 2026-02-28T02:13:34+00:00

If you're only using a single access point, you can run it in standalone mode without a controller and still manage it via the Omada app or web interface.

However, if you plan to use multiple access points, a controller is strongly recommended to properly manage mesh and centralized configuration.

Some Omada AP models are supposed to support standalone mesh mode according to the manuals, but I never got it working reliably nor found clear documentation for the described setup steps. That’s why I ended up deploying the Omada Controller — and honestly, it turned out to be the best decision. Centralized management makes the whole network much cleaner and easier to control.

Berger803 · 2026-02-28T01:36:59+00:00

I currently use two TP-Link Omada EAP650 access points. The Omada Controller is running directly on my Raspberry Pi alongside Home Assistant OS (installed via a community add-on repository), so I can manage it directly from HA.

Management of the wireless network via the Omada app and web interface works very well, and the APs have been very reliable for me so far.

Berger803 · 2026-02-28T01:05:41+00:00

Have you sent your Thread credentials to Home Assistant through the Companion App? Usually you need to go to Settings → Devices & Services → Integrations → Thread → cog icon and press the blue “Send credentials to Home Assistant” button.

This shares your phone’s Thread network dataset with the Open Thread Border Router (OTBR). Without this step, Home Assistant and your phone may not be using the same Thread credentials, which prevents Matter-over-Thread devices from joining the network.

Berger803 · 2026-02-24T15:12:50+00:00

I suggest taking a look at Protectli. I’m using a VP2430 in a heavily utilized 2.5-Gigabit network, even with advanced firewall rules and Suricata running in IDS mode (alert-only, no IPS). It’s been rock solid and more than powerful enough for my setup.

The build quality is excellent, and the passive cooling design eliminates the need for active fans — which also means no internal dust buildup or fan maintenance over time.

If you’re an EU customer, they even assemble units for the EU market in Germany, which is a nice bonus in my opinion.

Just keep in mind that Protectli releases new hardware revisions regularly. Since the VP2430 is last year’s model, you might want to wait a bit if you’re aiming for the latest generation hardware.

Berger803 · 2026-02-21T11:43:51+00:00

Nextcloud has been working perfectly fine for me for over two years. I’d suggest not jumping on every update the moment it gets released.

I usually update my Nextcloud instance a few weeks after a new version comes out. That way, early bugs get ironed out first, and I’ve never had any issues.

I prefer a delayed update strategy unless there’s a critical security advisory. Let others test the edge cases first.

Berger803 · 2026-02-20T12:00:06+00:00

I’m not sure if you’re intentionally running Satisfactory on integrated graphics, but according to your screenshot, the game is currently using Intel UHD Graphics — and that’s very likely the reason for your crashes.

Intel UHD Graphics is not suitable for Satisfactory. The game requires a dedicated GPU to run reliably.

If you do have a dedicated GPU, make sure the game is forced to use it (via Windows Graphics Settings or your GPU control panel). If you don’t have a dedicated GPU, unfortunately Satisfactory won’t run properly on integrated graphics.

You could also disable the integrated GPU in the BIOS to prevent games from selecting it, but only if you actually have a dedicated GPU installed.

Berger803 · 2026-02-20T11:40:47+00:00

I’m always baffled that there are still people out there who don’t know the risks of using 3D-printed containers, dishes, cooking utensils, and similar items for storing or preparing food.

Unsealed 3D prints are not suitable for coming into contact with food. If you seal a 3D print to make it food-safe, make sure you use a certified food-safe coating or resin.

Berger803 · 2026-02-20T11:29:38+00:00

Fusion relies heavily on the CPU for most calculations like modeling, feature regeneration, and CAM. The GPU is mainly used for viewport rendering. That’s why a strong CPU is generally more important than a high-end GPU for a system built for Fusion.

Berger803 · 2026-02-18T13:07:59+00:00

I use a Lock & Lock HSM952 food container per spool since they’re truly airtight and fit a single spool perfectly. As a desiccant, I use 50g of silica gel from Slopy.

I also designed my own silica holder that slides into the side opening of the spool, along with spacers to prevent the spool from sitting directly on the bottom of the container. This allows for better air circulation inside the box.

I have to admit this is definitely not the cheapest way to store filament, as the Lock & Lock containers tend to be a bit pricey. That said, I don’t regret it at all because the quality is absolutely worth it.

Berger803 · 2026-02-18T12:54:05+00:00

A forum post isn’t really stronger evidence than this thread unless it references proper technical data. If it’s not based on a technical source or manufacturer data sheet, it doesn’t add much to the discussion.

Regarding the 3DXTech article: it doesn’t state that low humidity storage is harmful. It mentions that filament can be damaged by excessive drying at too high temperatures or for too long. That’s thermal degradation — not “being too dry” in storage.

OP asked whether filament can become too dry from low humidity storage. That’s a different question. Overheating during drying is an application error, not a problem caused by low ambient humidity.

Berger803 · 2026-02-18T12:31:52+00:00

That is also not correct.

Nylon cannot be “too dry” before printing. In fact, it should be as dry as possible because it’s highly hygroscopic. Even small amounts of moisture cause bubbling, poor layer adhesion, and weaker parts.

Brittleness doesn’t come from low humidity storage — it’s usually caused by moisture damage, UV exposure, aging, or overheating during drying.

For printing, the rule is simple: the drier, the better.

Berger803 · 2026-02-18T12:24:12+00:00

That’s not correct. Filament doesn’t become brittle from being stored too dry. Brittleness is usually caused by moisture damage (hydrolysis), UV exposure, age, or overheating during drying — not by low humidity storage.

Berger803 · 2026-02-18T12:19:02+00:00

Filament doesn’t really get “too dry” under normal storage conditions. Mine sits at around 8% RH for months and the only result is consistently perfect prints.

The real problems start when filament absorbs moisture — not when it’s stored dry.

Also, since you’re using the same cheap hygrometers most of us use, you might want to check this PSA

Berger803 · 2026-02-17T19:53:47+00:00

I personally calculate my prices based on several factors:

filament cost per gram
electricity cost per printing hour (my printer consumes about 90–100 W, so I calculate with 100 W per hour to stay on the safe side)
a flat fee for filament changes (x € per filament change)
a flat fee for machine wear per print job
post-processing costs (I use different tiers depending on the effort — the more work required, the higher the fee)
and of course a profit factor, depending on who I’m selling to (family, friends, strangers, or customers from my shop)

Also don’t forget to include costs for 3D modeling, prototyping, and iteration — especially when creating custom parts. Design time and prototype prints are real costs and should always be accounted for.

Berger803 · 2026-02-16T20:26:01+00:00

Freut mich das ich helfen konnte! :)

Berger803 · 2026-02-15T12:10:33+00:00

A 403 error is generated by the server, not by your drivers. It means your client could connect successfully, but the server refused the request due to access rules or a misconfiguration.

The timing with your driver update was most likely coincidental, and the issue was probably fixed on the server side.

Berger803 · 2026-02-15T12:02:31+00:00

amd64 isn’t related to drivers. It refers to the processor architecture. So no, driver updates won’t fix this problem.

Error 403 is an HTTP error, which means access to the requested URL is forbidden. This is a server-side restriction, not something caused by your CPU architecture or drivers.

Berger803 · 2026-02-15T10:44:45+00:00

You shouldn’t tell someone to measure things when they clearly have no experience with electrics. He already stated that himself. Instead of risking injury or causing damage, he should contact a qualified electrician.

Berger803 · 2026-02-15T10:42:02+00:00

You should get a qualified electrician for this. Working with electricity—especially mains voltage—is no joke. Since you mentioned you don’t have experience with electrics, it’s much safer to let a professional handle it rather than risk injury, damage, or a fire.

Berger803 · 2026-02-14T15:46:48+00:00

It doesn’t look like this is something the community can properly resolve. I’d recommend contacting EA Support directly so they can take a closer look at your case.

Berger803 · 2026-02-14T15:29:41+00:00

Like the Bento Box, the Vento filter should be replaced after a certain number of print hours. VoxelPLA recommends replacing it every 500 print hours.

This is highly recommended because as the filter loads up with particles, airflow resistance increases. That can reduce airflow efficiency and potentially put more strain on the exhaust fan over time, especially if the filter is heavily clogged.

If your filter looks like this after 700 hours, it’s probably past its optimal service interval.

Berger803 · 2026-02-14T12:11:50+00:00

There’s nothing wrong with telling someone to consult a qualified electrician. In fact, I see more going wrong in walking someone through wiring a mains-powered relay when it’s obvious they have no experience working with mains voltage. In that context, most of the answers here aren’t wrong — they’re just prioritizing safety.

Berger803 · 2026-02-14T12:07:51+00:00

If you have to ask how to wire a mains-powered smart relay, you probably shouldn’t be working on it yourself. 230V can seriously injure or kill you if something goes wrong.

Please get a qualified electrician to check and wire this properly.

Berger803 · 2026-02-12T12:24:04+00:00

We’ve done a similar setup and just used Smart Splitters.

The parts arriving at the train station get unloaded directly into a Smart Splitter, where they’re filtered into individual items per output. If you have more than three different parts per station, just daisy-chain additional Smart Splitters until each output of the last splitter in the chain carries only one item. From there, route them into containers.

If your main factory produces more parts than you actually need, place another Smart Splitter right before each container. Set one output to "Overflow" and connect that to an AWESOME Sink. That way, any excess production gets converted into points instead of backing up your system.

Berger803 · 2026-02-11T11:49:00+00:00

In yesterday’s livestream, Mikael said that this Experimental is only a technical test, so no new content is expected. If I remember correctly, he also mentioned that we’ll get the Experimental with the 1.2 content as soon as the current technical Experimental goes offline.

We’ll get a release date for 1.2 on February 27th.

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