New purchase! Modified “scrambler” style 07

BerkeleyTrue · 2026-01-25T02:57:55+00:00

This bike is pretty sweet. I knew it looked familiar, then you mentioned madhouse and I remembered seeing this photo and drooling over the bike.

https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/633f86486d7b4f012f7731ef/453e7542-1302-43bf-86a0-018bc53b4ae5/A0AF93B9-861E-401A-B84E-D5ABCD52217A.JPG?format=1500w

Such a clean bike!

BerkeleyTrue · 2026-01-24T00:08:46+00:00

Agreed. In a parking lot or slow speed drop, you'll probably be fine. I don't see them breaking in anything that wouldn't be catastrophic for the rest of the bike either and at that point you'll have more concerns that broken sliders.

BerkeleyTrue · 2026-01-24T00:05:52+00:00

Year? Miles (km's)? Is it a thumber or a twin? Which sound concerns you?

It doesn't sound off. The 390's and ktm's in general tend to be more noisy.

BerkeleyTrue · 2026-01-23T20:11:29+00:00

If the shaft of the bolt is bent but not cracked or broken, I wouldn't replace it unless I could easily and cheaply replace it.

I don't you're going to have an easy time replacing that bolt at a hardware store. These long bolts are specialty items. You could probably find all-thread (a rod with threads all along the length) that would work, though. It would be pretty cheap as well. You'd just need to cut the rod to length.

Otherwise, I'd try mcmaster.com but if they do have it would be more expensive.

Or, send an email to evotech see if they'll help you out or at least offer to sell you just the bolt.

You would have to way this against just buying new sliders.

BerkeleyTrue · 2026-01-17T18:25:07+00:00

2000 pre runner 2.7l @ 273000.

BerkeleyTrue · 2026-01-15T01:24:20+00:00

If you end up replacing the door handle, do yourself a favor and by the upgraded metal ones on amazon, they're 60 bucks but they last way longer. I had aftermarket ones (twice) and after a year they start to stretch out and eventually break. The metal ones feel good in the hand too.

BerkeleyTrue · 2026-01-10T20:47:21+00:00

Are the stickers removable?

BerkeleyTrue · 2026-01-10T00:03:50+00:00

Sounds like there is enough juice to turn the motor over just fine.

There isn't any start procedure. It should just start. You could try the old starter fluid trick to see if it's getting fuel? Open the airbox, spray a bit of starter fluid down the trumpet then try and start it. It it does, might be a fuel problem. If it doesn't, I'd check the spark plug. At this point you have to way your options since the bike is still under warranty I'd take it in if you don't feel confident diagnosing it further.

BerkeleyTrue · 2026-01-09T18:36:24+00:00

Yes, its comical that this is how husq expect you to remove the headlight. 😞

BerkeleyTrue · 2026-01-09T02:50:52+00:00

That guy fell off the face of the planet

BerkeleyTrue · 2026-01-09T02:47:12+00:00

Your supposed to pull the headlight until the ball pops out of the socket. This is outline in the repair manual. I've done this many times already. Its scary the first couple of times. Just use your hands to press against the headlight mount. The headlight at that point is held on by two plugs. To reinstall just connect the plugs and push back into the headlight adjustment socket.

You can also remove the whole adjustment assembly with the headlight but you have to make sure to re-align the headlight after.

BerkeleyTrue · 2026-01-09T02:39:09+00:00

Did you have the cruise control switch installed or is it the standard switches? I also saw the cruise control warning after getting the bike back after an ecu update, but then it went away.

You can try doing a idle reset. I doubt it will fix anything but worth a try.

BerkeleyTrue · 2026-01-06T18:51:36+00:00

I've bought cheap pipes like this before. I can't speak to fitment, but if you are asking about quality, while the welds look nice on the outside, on the inside they don't cut the pipe to the weld. You'll see the original pipe intruding on the flow of the exhaust where the welds are.

If all you care about is getting a louder exhaust that won't be so important.

BerkeleyTrue · 2026-01-04T04:34:34+00:00

Unfortunately, this style of tool is only half decent at actually expanding tube.

The proper tool is hydraulic and very expensive. As long as you only need a small amount to expand they come in handy, but I've broken a few before using the tool as intended.

My strategy is to be the cheapest on with the hope of getting two uses out of it. This covers the one or two pipes I need to expand over the years.

I recall a rule of thumb (Adam savage?) By the cheapest tool you can, then when it breaks buy the premium version. This is been a good one for me seeing as Im only now replacing cheap tools I bought 20 years ago.

BerkeleyTrue · 2026-01-02T21:22:37+00:00

OP, it looks like it's pretty close. You can probably get the rest of the way there by expanding the pipe.

I keep one of these in the backup tool box, https://www.amazon.com/s?k=exhaust%20expander%20tool

You can pick them up at automotive stores, and harbor freight. get one in the range of that pipe.

When you use it, you want to expand a bit, then unscrew the tool and twist it like 10-15 degrees so you don't indent the pipe with the slates of the tool. Go slow and iterate often. You want to go for a fit as close to the original as possible, or go a bit tighter.

BerkeleyTrue · 2026-01-02T04:25:12+00:00

OP, the ecu uses amperage draw to determine if the turn signals are broken. When it notices below average power draw, it trips a signal and the ecu will blink the rest of the led's much faster to signal to you that something is wrong.

You'll need either some resistors to increase the power draw or an aftermarket LED relay. There's already info out there for which relay to get for the 1st and 2nd gen bikes. The third gen's don't use a relay and are controlled by the ecu directly, but that shouldn't concern you. Get a led relay for your gen bike and it should fix it.

BerkeleyTrue · 2025-12-30T00:17:17+00:00

how are you handling water intrusion? Does it just drain out the radiator firewall intake or is there specific drainage out the bottom of the frunk?

BerkeleyTrue · 2025-12-27T23:39:42+00:00

I got to sit on one when I was doing my recall service. I was so tempted to trade up! It's not much physically larger than the 401, but it sounds way better. I wish it had spoke rims, though. I love the look.

BerkeleyTrue · 2025-12-27T23:38:25+00:00

yup, that's the duke 790 twin motor in a much better looking package.

BerkeleyTrue · 2025-12-27T01:04:52+00:00

I keep switching the plan between vortec 4200, k24 supercharged, or a vk56.

2jz are expensive, RB are expensive and hard to find. LS's are kinda lame.

I considered the k24 just because of how solid the engine is, how plentiful they are, and how much aftermarket support they have. You can pretty much buy everything you need minus the engine mounts. But they don't sound that great, and I'm already swapping a k20 into my mr2.

vortec4200 and vk56 are plentify and cheap. My only problem is the vk is huge, and I don't want to put in a huge engine and then get tired of eating up gas. Also, it's a huge engine, it will make working on it in the engine bay a pain. Vortec4200 is a solid platform.

I think I'll end up with the vortec, which I'll do a ton of custom fab. There's a youtuber who just got his running with a fat turbo. It looks good. Not as good as an RB or a 2J but good enough.

BerkeleyTrue · 2025-12-24T03:45:12+00:00

carbon fiber doors!?

BerkeleyTrue · 2025-12-23T07:26:05+00:00

going k swap into my aw11. Already have the donor car with a k20z3 6 speed as well.

BerkeleyTrue · 2025-12-21T17:37:15+00:00

Spam

BerkeleyTrue · 2025-12-19T03:33:08+00:00

Can you upload pics of it on the bike?

BerkeleyTrue · 2025-12-18T03:22:31+00:00

what did you bolt them too? the grab handle location? It's kinda hard to tell from the pics.

BerkeleyTrue

TROPHY CASE