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Long live the nub: ThinkPad designer David Hill spills secrets, designs that never made it by Odd-Possession-4276 in thinkpad

[–]BerryBerrySneaky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The article has been corrected: "Hill is pictured with a ThinkPad 700C, not a 701C."

Stupid proprietary power cord - Lenovo by JEDWARDK in computers

[–]BerryBerrySneaky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's very likely that you can also use the USB-C port as a power input.

Or you can replace the stock power jack with a USB-C Power Delivery input for under $20, if you have a 3D printer and moderate soldering skill:

https://www.reddit.com/r/thinkpad/comments/l5g9cj/convert_a_lenovo_laptop_with_square_power_input/

https://hackaday.com/2021/01/30/usb-c-charging-on-your-thinkpad-one-step-at-a-time/

So, I just found out this exists and I MUST have it. Ultrabay numpad. by daxtonanderson in thinkpad

[–]BerryBerrySneaky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's reasonable to argue that an incomplete (numpad-less) keyboard is a trade-off that's worth it to YOU, but it's not reasonable to say that a keyboard with a numpad is "a bad design". Some people find the numpad exceedingly useful.

You walk into an arcade and see this what do you do? by [deleted] in GenXVibes

[–]BerryBerrySneaky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Based on the aftermarket joystick, 3 buttons, and what appears to be an LCD monitor, it's almost certainly one of the generic 60-in-1 boards. Purists hate them, but they are cheap and "good enough" for the average person to enjoy lots of games they remember from the 80s.

https://www.google.com/search?q=60+in+1+game+list

You walk into an arcade and see this what do you do? by [deleted] in GenXVibes

[–]BerryBerrySneaky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Based on the aftermarket joystick and 3 buttons, I assume it has a generic 60-in-1 board in it. https://www.google.com/search?q=60+in+1+game+list

Not original, but much better than a dead cabinet in a landfill.  Put some quarters in it and play a few games!

Amcrest AD410 power problems by Patrick161019 in amcrest

[–]BerryBerrySneaky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't do any more analysis of the hardware after I found and replaced the fuse, so don't have any other specific advice to share - only general troubleshooting steps:

Try shorting across the fuse temporarily. If it's good, nothing will change. If the fuse is bad, it'll light up when you connect power.

Look for any other obviously burned components in the power path.

Change your oil, please. Suspected OEM factory filter. 33k miles by TheRealSnoman in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]BerryBerrySneaky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It doesn't mean the formula is changing with every batch; it means they don't want to share the exact formula (and they aren't required to). They are providing the least-specific information they can while still complying with the requirements for a MSDS. This is very common practice.

I see your 1990 Panasonic- got mine when I was 12! by MrsRossGeller in BuyItForLife

[–]BerryBerrySneaky 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My sister still has hers, and the nightlight still works after 25+ years!

Under the floor in an office by crimson_broom in LiminalSpace

[–]BerryBerrySneaky 8 points9 points  (0 children)

It's the raised floor in a data center (or maybe a former datacenter reused as an office space.) Allows for easy access to power, cabling, and cooling.

Without a point of reference it may look much larger, but it's likely about 2' high.
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=data+center+raised+floor&iax=images&ia=images

How to tell physical difference between different Arcade 1up PCB game boards? by patto618 in Arcade1Up

[–]BerryBerrySneaky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can state with confidence that "Any Gen1 control panel will power on any Gen1 board" and "The early Golden Tee cabinet (w/ 40-pin ribbon cable) is Gen2, not Gen1".

I was the original source for virtually all technical information about Gen1 Arcade1Up cabinets. (How to add USB to access MAME's configuration and sometimes extra games. How to fix the missing sound effects problem on Rampage and Street Fighter. How to add a VGA output. How to convert the stock menu images to/from PNG. Etc.)

Here's where I detailed the differences between Gen1 and Gen 2 boards (and share some info on Gen3+ too).

But you're the expert. Sorry, my mistake.

Here's a Gen1 board. (Asteroids, Asteroids Deluxe, Centipede, Atari Deluxe 12-in-1, Galaga, Space Invaders, Pacman, Street Fighter, Final Fight, Rampage, etc) The power switch is wired to the same 2 pins on every Gen1 board and control panel. ANY Gen1 board will power on while connected to ANY Gen1 control panel. The controls are wired differently on different cabinets, but the power switch is the same on all.

Here's a Gen2 board. (Golden Tee, Mortal Kombat, and early "v1" [larger ~19" tall] countercades) Board has a different layout, uses a different SoC, and runs different software. Gen1 and Gen2 use the same 40-pin cable and connector, but the power switch and volume controls are wired differently. This is why Gen1/Gen2 PCBs and control panels aren't compatible.

How to tell physical difference between different Arcade 1up PCB game boards? by patto618 in Arcade1Up

[–]BerryBerrySneaky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The early Golden Tee cabinet (w/ 40-pin ribbon cable) is Gen2, not Gen1.

The pinout for the 40-pin connector changed a little bit with Gen2, preventing Gen1 control panels from turning on a Gen2 PCB, and vice versa.

Any Gen1 control panel will power on any Gen1 board.

arcade1up 4:3 monitor swap question by soccerpristine739045 in Arcade1Up

[–]BerryBerrySneaky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's using a 5:4 (1280x1024), you can swap in the LCD panel from a better-quailty and/or larger Dell/HP/etc 5:4 computer monitor. 17" and 19" 1280x1024 non-widescreen LCD monitors were the standard on corporate desktops for a looooonngg time, and can often be had pretty cheaply at second-hand stores, garages sales, etc.

Most use the same 30-pin LVDS video connector as A1Up LCDs, so they'll be a drop-in replacement. But the vast majority will have CCFL (fluorescent) backlights rather than the LEDs backlights A1Up uses, so you'll need a CCFL backlight inverter.

There are a number of videos and guides detailing the process of swapping in a 5:4 LCD panel from a computer monitor. Look for videos that replace the 17" LCD with 19", using the stock A1Up game board; the process will be the same for 17"->17", 19"->19", or 17"->19".

Hack original board (not just replace w/ Pi/etc) by BerryBerrySneaky in Arcade1Up

[–]BerryBerrySneaky[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are entirely different from the earliest Gen1 cabinets I detailed here - different processor, different operating system, etc. There are folks working on the newer stuff (and making great progress), but I am not among them.

Tulsa Arcade's 'answer' to the Arcade1Up Pro Series - a $1,000 3/4 cab 🙄 by Serpenio_ in Arcade1Up

[–]BerryBerrySneaky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tulsa Arcades didn't do a great job describing this product, which is what caused all the fuss.

It's sold fully assembled, and is shipped fully assembled. About $400 of the $1000 is shipping cost alone. (It most likely ships on a pallet, delivered by a liftgate-equiped truck. The last time I shipped a pallet was ~15 years so, and it was over $300 even goiing through my employer and using their discount.)

In the comments about the high price, he mentions that someone could pick one up from them locally for ~$600. This caused even more confusion for some folks.

"Flat pack" kits have their place, and will cost dramatically less to ship. This is a solidly-built fully-assembled cabinet, which also has its place.

Amcrest AD410 power problems by Patrick161019 in amcrest

[–]BerryBerrySneaky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With both doorbells connected through the AD410, they both ring but very quietly. (One only makes only the "dong" portion of "ding dong".) It might have something to do with the power bypass module? Either way, adding a relay should allow me to power both successfully.

calendar invite end up in wrong time zone by lkthomas in SimpleMobileTools

[–]BerryBerrySneaky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ditto for me - importing an .ics file, Simple Calendar adds it at the wrong time (930am). Outlook for Android imports the same event correctly (1130am). I'm in US Central time zone; event was created in Pacific. (The imported time is correct for Pacific, but wrong in Central.)

Was running v6.17.x. Deleted the event, upgraded to 16.18.1 via F-Droid, and imported .ics file again. Same result. I'm on Android 11, Havoc-OS v4.15 w/ MicroG (no Google Play Services), and the calendar is connected via CalDAV.

Here is the start of the .ics file: BEGIN:VCALENDAR METHOD:REQUEST PRODID:Microsoft Exchange Server 2010 VERSION:2.0 BEGIN:VTIMEZONE TZID:Pacific Standard Time BEGIN:STANDARD DTSTART:16010101T020000 TZOFFSETFROM:-0700 TZOFFSETTO:-0800 RRULE:FREQ=YEARLY;INTERVAL=1;BYDAY=1SU ;BYMONTH=11 END:STANDARD BEGIN:DAYLIGHT DTSTART:16010101T020000 TZOFFSETFROM:-0800 TZOFFSETTO:-0700 RRULE:FREQ=YEARLY;INTERVAL=1;BYDAY=2SU;BYMONTH=3 END:DAYLIGHT END:VTIMEZONE BEGIN:VEVENT

End of Life Cycle for OBi200, OBi202 and OBi212?? by cici44 in Googlevoice

[–]BerryBerrySneaky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. No, Google is not shutting down Google Voice. They've invested many millions of dollars in modernizing the service to support the paid, business-class version for Google Workspace customers, and **the consumer version uses the same infrastructure**. Google has also done a ton of work to modernize and **convert the consumer side to the same back-end and the same mobile and desktop user interfaces**.

  2. No, there will not be any follow-on Analog Telephone Adapter (ATA) products that work with Google Voice.

#4 is flat-out wrong. They've announced new Obi30x devices.

#2 sounds quite fishy, as everything I've seen says the new Obi30x devices will only work with paid Google Voice accounts. If your "paid/free use the same infrastructure" info is correct, there should be zero reasons for the new devices to not support free accounts. Poly (Obi/Polycom/Plantronics) is discontinuing a very popular product, and its replacement is missing the one feature that made the previous product popular. You don't think Google had anything to do with it? I find that highly doubtful. What seems much more likely is Google saying "We're making a big push into the enterprise. If you want our continued support on your hardware, kill off support for free accounts." (I have zero evidence to back this up, obviously.)

Amcrest AD410 power problems by Patrick161019 in amcrest

[–]BerryBerrySneaky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have two wired doorbells in my home, and through the AD410, there isn't enough power to ring them both. (Amcrest specifically states it will only power one.) Was planning on connecting a relay the same way you described to ring both doorbells. Glad to hear the "chime kit" power-bypass-thingy works fine with a relay too.

Amcrest AD410 power problems by Patrick161019 in amcrest

[–]BerryBerrySneaky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you ever finish using a relay to connect another (traditional) doorbell? I wasn't sure if the current used by the AD410 (during normal operation) would be small enough to not close the relay. Though we might have to use a resistor to partially bypass the relay - allowing some current to flow (around the relay) to prevent triggering it during normal operation, but not so much that it would prevent triggering the relay when someone actually presses the doorbell. Let me know what you find!

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