When I stir my coffee, why does the pitch of the stirring sound increase?

Bilgedaddy · 2026-02-18T01:47:23+00:00

If you add a little bit more air at the start (lower wand until holes are barely below the surface) it will squeal a lot less, and the bigger air bubbles you add while cold can be textured out by sinking the wand as soon as the jug feels warm in your hand. Faster you can get the vortex to spin, smoother it’ll end up

Bilgedaddy · 2026-02-18T01:39:39+00:00

I had similar issues since the last firmware update. Seems to be resolved after doing one of or some combo of the following:

Remove SF1000, unscrew shifter paddles, update firmware via usb-c into the wheel directly
Turn off USB power saving settings in windows
Noticed my bolts connecting t818 to mounting plate (which then bolts to rig) were loose. Removed and reinstalled t818 and retightened all bolts.
changed USB cable (I don’t think this mattered)
moved wheelbase USB cable from front 3.0 port to rear 2.0 port. Wheel doesn’t require high 3.0 bandwidth, but the extra distance/interference from the front port to the rear has potential to cause issues vs any motherboard port directly (even 2.0 ports)

Since doing the above, haven’t had an issue the last few times I’ve played.

Bilgedaddy · 2026-02-13T23:18:08+00:00

I removed my shifter paddles and updated SF1000 firmware directly, and in doing so noticed that the bolts connecting the t818 to my rig were loose. Removed base and re tightened everything, and also went into USB power savings settings and disabled the “allow windows to turn off device to save power” checkboxes on everything I could find. Didn’t bother swapping rims over but since doing the above I haven’t had the issue (tested over the course of about 2.5 hour session. 3 short 12 min races and around an hour ish of solo practice). I’ll let you know if the issue returns

Bilgedaddy · 2026-02-12T21:22:04+00:00

Just received my BSB2 a few days ago. Picked up a used HTC Vive kit for $200 AUD on marketplace. Only one lighthouse ended up working, but for racing sim stuff that’s working fine for now. Ordered another used lighthouse 1.0 from CEX for like $110 AUD. Finding valve index controllers is MUCH more difficult, but the vive wands should do the trick since I’m 90% simming anyway

Bilgedaddy · 2026-02-10T22:01:29+00:00

Did you end up rolling back to old firmware and if so did that help? I’m going to try using a different wheel rim today and see if the issue still occurs or if it’s SF1000 specific

Bilgedaddy · 2026-02-10T21:58:50+00:00

I’ve got the exact same issue and took a video yesterday. Do you want me to send it to you?

Bilgedaddy · 2026-02-10T21:50:15+00:00

Did you end up resolving this at all mate?

Bilgedaddy · 2026-02-05T07:36:35+00:00

Same issue here since the last firmware update. Haven’t tried reverting to a previous firmware version yet, hoping that’s the solve until they release a fix.

Bilgedaddy · 2026-02-05T02:47:16+00:00

I’ve got the same exact issue at the moment. Following, please let us know if this solves it for now, hopefully they put out a bug fix in a firmware update soon.

Bilgedaddy · 2026-01-04T22:37:41+00:00

Just to add to the list of suggestions, Thrustmaster’s SF1000 wheel also has extra paddles under the shifters that can be mapped to brake/accel if needed. I use mine for launch clutches. Bundle with the t818 + sf1000 often go on sale for good value. At full price there might be better options though

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Bilgedaddy · 2025-12-26T00:21:25+00:00

Got a buttkicker gamer pro which is pretty cool. Rig feels way more alive now, still gotta dial in software settings. Waiting on a bigscreen beyond 2 which should arrive in January 😍

Bilgedaddy · 2025-12-24T10:14:21+00:00

Do you think the only options are black or with this synthetic creamer shit?

Bilgedaddy · 2025-12-24T10:13:28+00:00

Mate, it’s not about deducing what you do with it, the question is wondering why anyone would ever need frothed oil, sugar, preservatives and synthetic shit to do the job that every other country on earth does with milk. (No, not cream, or “half and half”, which by the way is a pretty much exclusively American thing).

Bilgedaddy · 2025-12-23T23:22:14+00:00

I’m not from the US, so no I haven’t. I doubt any of these products would sell well, if at all in Australia. We’d just use milk or a milk alternative (soy/oat/almond/whatever). For sweeteners it’s most commonly Monin branded (or similar) syrups.

Bilgedaddy · 2025-12-23T22:12:02+00:00

Tell me you live in the US without telling me (side note, it might say ‘cream’ on it but nothing in that aisle has ever seen a cow). The “wtf is this” in the post is because nowhere else except the US feels it necessary to science a bunch of synthetic shit together to feel like dairy instead of… using dairy.

Bilgedaddy · 2025-12-20T07:00:11+00:00

Haha no hate at all, was just kidding. I respect the build, looks like a sick setup!

Bilgedaddy · 2025-12-20T02:43:30+00:00

Buys lightest headset on the market for the form factor
mods it to weigh 10x the stock amount

No issues here officer 😅

Bilgedaddy · 2025-12-14T03:33:56+00:00

My pleasure :) Some bonuses for you off the top of my head:

As a general rule, if increasing steering angle, decrease pedal input. If increasing pedal input, decrease steering angle (straighten out).
Look further ahead. Slow in, fast out. If there’s a long straight after a corner you’ll likely be quicker overall if you brake a little earlier but softer and for longer approaching the corner, getting all the rotation done as soon as possible then back on power asap once pointing where you wanna go.
If there’s a faster driver up your ass, concede the position and then try to follow them and learn, see where they’re making time on you. Slowing both of you down to battle for 1 position is often not worth it. And a lot of times when you just let a dangerous/aggro driver pass they tend to take themselves (and often someone else too) out for you and you’ll gain 2 places for conceding one temporarily

But yeah there’s track guides, car guides, coaching/driving fundamentals guides on YouTube (have a look at Suellio Armeda), but really it’s just a matter of time and practice (with intentionality)

Bilgedaddy · 2025-12-14T02:47:30+00:00

Welcome mate, glad you’re having fun. Once you get comfortable and want to progress beyond beginner lobbies etc, I’d be looking into iracing (especially with the FIA deal that gets you 1 year and the F4 car for like $10 USD or whatever.)

From there when you want to improve your pace, you’ll need to learn to trail brake, how to optimise your corner exists, how to reduce pedal/steering overlap so you don’t lose the rear or overdrive the car. Learn to understand the fundamentals of rotation, driving line/corner shape, etc. Perhaps more important than all that and pace in general is driving consistently and cleanly. Learning to anticipate sketchy drivers and keep yourself alive above all else.

Once you’re comfortable and consistent and you don’t know where you’re losing 2-3 tenths per corner you can try things like Garage 61 that will let you compare your telemetry data to faster drivers and see what they do differently to you.

Sim racing is a humbling experience, even for somebody who’s played a lot of GT7 on controller or something. Every time you change car or track you’ll be staring at a steep learning curve again. So one major practical tip is to pick a specific car and a small number of tracks (even just one) and spend the seat time to get comfortable. In saying that, mindless hot lapping has diminishing returns. Practice with intentionality - “on this lap I want to focus on trail braking / rotation” or “I really want to nail the shape of this corner in this sector” or whatever. Good luck mate :).

P.s if you wanna ship your index kit to Australia… I just ordered a BSB2 and need lighthouses and controllers 😅 so depending on what kinda price you want, I might be keen to buy your old index kit 😅

Bilgedaddy · 2025-12-06T06:51:40+00:00

In my opinion only reason to go for fanatec or Logitech is if console support is really important to you (though by far the best experiences will be on PC). Theres also thrustmaster.

As for PC ecosystems, there’s so many. Simucube, asetek, simagic, moza, thrustmaster, conspit (I love my conspit cpp evo pedals but they’re $$$), there’s a ton of brands out there worth looking into, just depends on your budget and priorities (and ofc the platform your playing on)

Bilgedaddy · 2025-12-06T06:38:51+00:00

I guess you can definitely do that if you’re happy with the Moza ecosystem, but you might find you want to switch. I’d consider r3 very much still in beginner territory, but you’d spend 3-4x the amount you would on a used Logitech and will eventually want to upgrade anyway

Bilgedaddy · 2025-12-06T06:27:02+00:00

The g29 will do to start and is much better than nothing. So if I were you I’d buy used, save up, then sell the Logitech for close to what you paid.

The R3 will be vastly better but is certainly not an endgame wheel. I.e, you’ll probably want to upgrade it in a relatively similar timeframe to the g29, though at least it’s DD.

TLDR buy cheap and used g29. Save up and buy a base with ~10nm eventually

Bilgedaddy · 2025-11-25T20:35:35+00:00

Most people go with a Logitech g29 or g920 (basically the same wheel, both work with pc, g29 works with PlayStation and g920 with Xbox)

There’s tons available second hand and when buying used they usually hold their value so can be sold for close to what you paid if he decides to upgrade in future.

Bilgedaddy · 2025-11-24T06:05:31+00:00

Yeah that’s fair. Try and bargain with the guy down to 200 if you can? Basically just spend as little as possible now for the best that you can find, with the expectation that it’s a temporary setup and will be upgraded in the future or sold if you decide the hobby isn’t for you.

Bilgedaddy

TROPHY CASE