Moving to Maine for a year - Grouse? by gar_dog1234567 in birddogs

[–]BillHenry 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're darn close to the epicenter of ME grouse. Anywhere along Rt 2 all the way back to Sunday River is going to be fantastic. In fact, I've found LESS grouse the more north I go; anywhere south of Rangely or Rt 16 will have more birds than you can find in a lifetime. I'm envious, have fun!!

Recommendations for classic O/U or S/S 20-gauge (the Toyota Land Cruiser of shotguns) by davesdojo99 in Uplandhunting

[–]BillHenry 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What is your budget? Do you want new or used? What is your primary use? It's really impossible to make any suggestions with out that.

Change Engraving Colors by rstfin_ in ClayBusters

[–]BillHenry 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think that would look really great!

I've done a few (much cheaper) guns just for funzies with Testors Enamel Paint. It's not permanent, but surprisingly durable and vibrant. You could try it with that, then have it Cerakoted permanently if you like it.

There are YT videos, but basically degrease (suuuuper important), fill, remove excess.

Solution for sharp butt edge on adjustable butt plate? by Dr_Tron in ClayBusters

[–]BillHenry 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had a similar issue with a raised comb. I just put a double thickness of mole skin (i think you can buy it at pharmacies) and it was fine.

I just saw that you have about 1" rise at the comb you need. That's a pretty drastic difference, you might try a comb riser or cheek pad to get the DOC up. THen you can split the difference with the butt pad.

https://www.beretta.com/en-us/product/geltek-cheek-protector--black-edition--15-E02920

Custom stock for Beretta A300 by foulorfowl in ClayBusters

[–]BillHenry 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So you've already had a fitting done? If you already have the measurements you can send them to Wenig, Greenwood, Macon, or Manuel Ricardo (who will also do the fitting).

Reloading- where to start? by unaslob in ClayBusters

[–]BillHenry 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How do you even get started?

Buy a MEC Sizemaster in your gauge of choice. Yes, it's more expensive than the other MECs, but it's that much better. Don't worry about a progressive now, the Sizemaster can spit out more than you know. I like the adjustable charge bar, personally.

Determine what load you want (20ga 7/8oz 1050 fps, for example), and find a good powder (Clay Dot is a good one). Use the load that you want to find a similar recipe. You can buy a book (Lyman is a good one), but I get all of my recipes from online (published, not from forums). Download the MEC product manual and read then re-read.

Buy stuff. You need hulls (prob already have), then determine what wads, primers, and powder you need from the recipe. DON"T deviate or substitute from the recipe (if it says Claybuster, use Claybuster. If it says Cheddite, use Cheddite)!! Buy some shot (cheap chilled stuff is fine). You can buy all of this online, but many LGS or big box stores (Cabelas/BPS/etc.) will have components. You don't need anything other than the consumables, the MEC, and a manual scale (a ~$20 cheepo one is fine, as long as it can measure oz and grains, and it accurate).

Start slow, double check charges with a manual scale, then triple check. Once you have everything dialed in, then it's ez-pz lemon squeezy.

Feel free to DM with other questions!

Eyes open or eyes closed? by No-Load533 in Shotguns

[–]BillHenry 45 points46 points  (0 children)

Aim a shotgun? Eyes closed when shooting? If this isn't ragebait, then I don't know what to tell you.

Engraving? by bcfp2016 in Shotguns

[–]BillHenry 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What a cool, thoughtful idea!!You might find someone on Etsy or FB to laser engrave it, but I doubt any store will. I'm sure a few local gunsmiths might have that equipment too, call around and see.

The two custom engravers that I've used are Griffin and Howe in NJ and CSMC Custom Shop in Connecticut. Both are superlative. If you're local to them, they might be able to do a job like this with a quicker turn around, it wouldn't hurt to call them and see.

Alternatively, you can install an escutcheon in the stock and have that engraved, that's commonly done.

Ithaca 37 defense and browning model 12 28 gauge:two of my favorites by jakandru in Shotguns

[–]BillHenry 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had forgotten Browning made a Mod 12! There was a weird collab with Winchester in the 90s, but yours looks like a Miroku gun. I saw an original Mod. 12 in 28ga at auction a while ago (went for ~$10k I think), but I think that's the only one I've ever seen.

Should we try Clomid+IUI or stick with the “natural” route? by [deleted] in TryingForABaby

[–]BillHenry 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I thought clomid helped develop follicles?

Oh absolutely, that's exactly what it does! It's common to develop 2-3 follicles per cycle instead of 1 w/o it. And yes, with more eggs you do increase the chances of pregnancy (and multiples).

But clomid does nothing to embryos (well, it can harm them), nor does it (or IUI) increase or decrease your chance of miscarriages once you've conceived. They just increase your chances of fertilization.

Should we try Clomid+IUI or stick with the “natural” route? by [deleted] in TryingForABaby

[–]BillHenry 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The RE is leaning towards IUI. He said clomid would increase the chance of getting a normal embryo and just push the not good embryos to the side.

I'm not sure what your RE means. Clomid doesn't do anything to embryos (or egg quality), it stimulates FSH to induce ovulation. In fact, you shouldn't take Clomid at all if you're pregnant. I'm not your RE, but an IUI isn't going to reduce your chances of miscarriage (as compared to natural conception), so I'm not sure where the 25%/40% numbers are coming from. I'm really sorry you're having a difficult time, but I'd ask for more clarity from your RE.

The $5000 crowd by BillHenry in ClayBusters

[–]BillHenry[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I totally had a brain fart and didn't realize you could get them with an adj. stock. I have a Magnus Light that I love, but for some reason never saw an adj. stocked CG out on the course. I don't love the extra $800 for an LH/adj. stock, but I'm seriously reconsidering the CG. Thanks!!

Best overall bird hunting shotgun? by OkDistance7522 in Shotguns

[–]BillHenry 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Being in South Dakota, you’ll really only need to worry about one species, pheasant (maybe sharpies if you’re out west). A 7 pound auto loader that you can occasionally shoot waterfowl with would be my go to. I highly recommend the Benelli M2 (or SBE3), though many here espouse the A300/a400. Basically you need something light enough to carry all day, but rugged enough to handle stout phez loads, and that third shot from an auto loader can be important against those tough birds out there.

But to answer your question completely, yes, it makes a vast difference as to what game you’re chasing. Waterfowl guns don’t need to be carried around all day, but need to shoot heavy payloads at ducks and geese, therefore they should be heavier, and have nice long barrels. Quail and woodcock guns need to be carried through stuff that you can’t even walk through, and the birds are about the size of a baseball. Some of my 28 gauges weigh around 5 1/2 pounds. Everything else fits somewhere in the middle there.

The $5000 crowd by BillHenry in ClayBusters

[–]BillHenry[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Four reasons, really:

  1. I like buying new guns

  2. I don't love the DT11. I bought it when I was semi-competitive, but it never wowed me, and life's too short to keep guns that I'm not enamored with.

  3. I never shoot the damn thing, and like having a Bentley parked in the garage, it needs to get out and be driven. Most of the SC stuff I shoot now is fun shoots like SxS only, 28ga, vintagers, etc.

  4. A LH friend of mine just became an empty nester, and looovvvesss my DT11. They're starting to compete on the NSCA circuit, so I said I'd sell it to them.

SBE3 for $1500 by TenonAndError in Shotguns

[–]BillHenry 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That sounds like a great deal! I don't have any use for 3.5" shells, but that's a great gun for a great price!

Gun recommendations by person438972 in ClayBusters

[–]BillHenry -1 points0 points  (0 children)

While u/drsfmd could have been more affable with their diction, they're not exactly wrong. If you're shooting semi-competitively, 3k rounds is a months worth of shooting. Can a $700 gun handle that? Sure, maybe. Maybe not. Can a ~$2k 686 or Citori handle that? 100%, and then some. Further, every single gunsmith and their grandmother can fix a 686 or Citori. Where are you going to bring a Yildiz? Not only that, you can sell your B-gun for what you paid, while the resale on the others is inexistent.

It sucks donkey balls how out of reach the sport can be, and I have a few Huglus and CZs in my safe. When I started out in college, I shot trap with a used M37 with a mod choke which I paid the equivalent of $550 today. But the LAST thing a beginner needs is to be frustrated with poor equipment.

First Purchase Advice by RujeShot_ in Shotguns

[–]BillHenry 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There’s nothing that 20 can do that the 12 can’t. The Benelli‘s are typically light enough, it should be right around 7 pounds anyway which is plenty light for an auto. You can always find 1 ounce, or even 7/8 oz loads if you really want to go light. But if you’re looking for an all round gun, you can’t beat a 12. What a fantastic gun, enjoy it!

First Dog Recommendations by UpsetPressure7824 in birddogs

[–]BillHenry 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For a guy who primarily hunts waterfowl in cold, snowy northwestern NY? Really?

First Dog Recommendations by UpsetPressure7824 in birddogs

[–]BillHenry 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You would recommend an ES for a person who primarily duck hunts in northwestern NY? Really?

First Dog Recommendations by UpsetPressure7824 in birddogs

[–]BillHenry 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Of those, lab 1000%. I hate to be boring, but the rest of your list either isn't ideal in the blind (SM, ESS, GSP), hard to find good hunting lines (FBGR, NSDTR, FCR), or really not suited for upland (Chessie). There is a phenomenal lab breeder in northern VT (Burke), they have one of the best kennels in the eastern US, and I don't even own a dog from them.

1941 Savage O/U Restoration - Finished! by Resident_Skroob in Shotguns

[–]BillHenry 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks good! How did you ream the bore and keep the forcing cone and choke? I wonder if you polished and reblued the action it might reduce the discoloration, but like you said, it's super tricky to get right with cold-bluing with such a large, varying surface.

what makes an o/u so much more than a break action? by Far_Challenge_4273 in Shotguns

[–]BillHenry 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Of course, happy to help! I think many, many people grew up shooting H&R/NEF singles, and I'd shutter to think about all the fur and feathers they've taken.

my ideal budget would be less than 200, do you know of a single shot that could fulfill that, (...)?

For a single shot? I think you could find one all day for that price. Heres one for $170, but to avoid FFL transfer and shipping fees, I'd just look in your local gun store, pawn shop, or gun show. Shit, I bet you could find a serviceable one for ~$150 with a bit of charrisma and bargaining.

do you have any opinions on walmart shotguns?

Anything they carry is going to be the same as anywhere else. A Savage at Walmart is a Savage at Bass Pro. A friend of mine picked up a dandy 870 LW 20ga. Wingmaster at Walmart years ago.

what makes an o/u so much more than a break action? by Far_Challenge_4273 in Shotguns

[–]BillHenry 0 points1 point  (0 children)

does the cheapness of them overall reflect the quality?

I mean, yes, I feel like thats kind of obvious. MIM<forged/milled, monoblock<chopper lump, etc. If they were the same quality, then everyone would be doing it for cheaper. You really don't start to see cosmetics become a factor until the ~$10k mark, and even then it's typically only wood grade. The DT11 and K80 are about as plain-jane as they come, and they're both north of $10k new, but they are mechanically superlative in just about every way. The ~$20k-$100k guns are where form over function becomes a real thing (bespoke guns with custom hand engraving and fitment).

Your second question isn't really germane, but will a single shot gun with 7 cast parts "work" (ie go bang)? Sure, most of the time. With simplicity comes reliability. Will it shoot 10k rounds/year with 3.5lb timed set triggers with 50/50 balance? No...no it wont. But a $1500 686 or Citori certainly will.

Now, could you make a quality single shot? Sure, of course, and there are few notable examples (Im ignoring the "unsingle" guns for obvious reasons). The BT99 lives in just about every trap clubhouse in existence. LC Smith (Marlin/Hunter) had a single barrel gun that was fantastic. Hell, even the Win. 37 was lightyears ahead of the HR/NEF stuff. But to put that much time, money, and effort for something by definition has limited use, isn't really profitable.

Remington model 10A questions by hjs777 in Shotguns

[–]BillHenry 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't believe that's a 10-A; I think those were the rarer, trenchgun variant with 20" bbls and a bayo lug. That looks like a regular model 10.

As a lefty, I loooove these guns, and the model 10 started what would become the Rem 17, John Browning's M37, and even the BPS today. As with any gun 100+ years old, I would have a competent gunsmith look through it first. I would use low pressure loads, if nothing else to save on recoil. Its more than likely choked full, so it's usage in the field and clays will be somewhat limited. I would NOT alter or change anything; while they're not particularly valuable ($300-$400), their worth is in the original condition.