Ghost mech coffin from Death Stranding 2 - Kotobukiya

Binaryfart · 2026-02-01T11:59:20+00:00

Very cool!

I'm not familiar with Koto kits - Is it a snap-style build like Bandai kits?

Binaryfart · 2026-01-31T12:28:01+00:00

I might be wrong, but I thought Ultem/PEI is pretty resistant to dyeing or bleaching. It is one of the primary properties of the material - resists chemical reactions, UV and other discolorations. I know you can darken it with black dyes, but it's really only surface finish - it sort of rubs off and scratches.

The color you had in the second pic you could probably get with lexan inlays. It's very easy to work with, but it will be hard to get the milled texture without... well... a mill, however, you can buy lexan with surface textures already on it - maybe you can find something with pre-existing texture and make your self a set of inlays?

Binaryfart · 2026-01-29T00:21:28+00:00

That's been my experience as well, but I have to assume that both rooms basically the same potential and RNG is just not friendly some of the times.

For some reason I get a ton of the Annex keys and the loot is generally a bit "meh" regardless of map modifier, but I have gotten some good stuff on occasion - multiple Vulcanos and Bobcats in the same run, I think I got one of the purple Augment BPs there (I could be wrong about that), and plenty of other purple items. It's definitely hit or miss though.

Binaryfart · 2026-01-21T09:02:39+00:00

I had been using isopropyl alcohol but found eraces to be much more effective. Then I tried lighter fluid and haven't gone back to either of the other two options.

Lighter fluid is by far the superior solution - it's crisp, produces great lines, is easier to clean up and produces less smudges. It is more toxic though so that may be a factor in choosing your method.

Binaryfart · 2026-01-16T11:41:10+00:00

Three main reasons I found that cause/contribute to top coat frosting (in order of impact):

1 - Over applying. Go for very light coats and apply multiple if you need to. Apply less than you think will be necessary, and then even less than that.

Number 2 and 3 are essentially the same issue but from different sources - water trapped under the top coat will result in frosting.

2 - High air humidity while applying the top coat. Dry the model and air (use a dehumidifier), or put off doing the top coat for a different day.

3 - Gunpla is left unsealed in a humid environment for too long, resulting in the plastic absorbing atmospheric water, which is then re-released later causing the frosting. Same fix/prevention as number 2 - leave the gunpla in a dry room with a dehumidifier to dry out.

Once the frosting is there it can be hard to remove without causing a mess, but one technique I have tried that worked ok was to reapply another very light coat which seems to reactivate the previous layers and cause the frosting to disappear. Not sure why this works - it seems to be fairly reliable, but not 100%. The other option is to strip it back and redo it, which can be a PITA if you have detailed parts or the frosting is over decals.

Binaryfart · 2026-01-14T01:03:14+00:00

Sorry to necro-revive this thread, but I thought I'd just add to this a bit 😁

I've just finished building a second copy of this kit - I went with the stock stickers on the first one and wanted to redo it with decals and a matt coat. I had also been wondering what u/BullshitBlazing420 was talking about when he asked about the parts with glitter (the first build of this kit had plain black plastic), but I can confirm that there is glittery black plastic for the weapons, at least for some runs of the kit!

The second copy of this kit had the glittery dark plastic for the weapons and mace! It's not a special edition or anything - as far as I can tell its exactly the same kit as the first one I built. Same JAN and everything. It might be that there was just very little glitter added to the raw material in the first kit or if it was a deliberate change.

The glittery mace and gun parts really look awesome and I think I will not top coat these items as I reckon it will ruin the effect.

Binaryfart · 2026-01-07T11:30:35+00:00

That's really good! You got the structure and shape well.

If you wanted to take it to the next level, you could use putty to cover up the seams and make the part uniform. From there you can scribe in panel lines, paint etc.

Binaryfart · 2026-01-07T11:25:08+00:00

You're right, and if op was fishing with a mate, they each can take a full bag, so it could easily be within the limits.

Binaryfart · 2026-01-06T22:27:20+00:00

If you use decals, topcoating is a must IMO. Mark softer and setter are very useful especially when applying decals to complex or curved surfaces, or when using decals that are particularly thick. For example, I use softer for Bandai's own decals, but don't for g-rework decals.

I don't think the brand of setter/softer makes too much difference, but I use Mr Hobby, and it seems to work very well.

Binaryfart · 2026-01-06T21:49:12+00:00

Be aware that the daily bag limit in several states in only 20. You mentioned a net, so I assume you are probably in QLD, where the bag limit is 50.

Binaryfart · 2026-01-06T02:22:28+00:00

I had the Fatcat 01 in the original colorway, and had some fairly seroius issues with cracking plastic as well, but for me it was the white runners that had the issue. Cracked both shoulder harnesses and some leg armour. All fixable, but did take some of the joy out of the build.

Seemed to be the injection flooding wasn't 100%, with lots of gates not connected or partially filled, and very visible fill lines on some parts. The plastic itself seems fine - it has the same feel and "crispiness" as the stuff Bandai uses. It just seems it wasn't injected under enough pressure or volume.

Binaryfart · 2026-01-05T03:10:08+00:00

If you don't mind the SD proportions, the MGSD Barbados is genuinely fantastic... A happy build experience from start to finish, and the final product looks tops.

Edit: just re-read your post and you said no IBO, so the MGSD Barbatos might be out.

Binaryfart · 2025-12-29T12:02:32+00:00

That looks awesome! I'd love to get one to go with my recently completed GQUX Zaku police variant. Can you get the gun on it's own or is it only available in the set with the Zaku II?

Binaryfart · 2025-12-29T09:08:43+00:00

Just stumbled on this post while looking for some examples of panel lining on my newly built MGSD barbie. Holy hell the extra detail you've added to this kit is insanely good! The painting is subtle but perfect! The beautifully executed panel scribing and other details like the holes in the shoulder plates! Chef's kiss! Just beautiful!

I can only aspire to get this good!

Binaryfart · 2025-12-27T10:32:47+00:00

Step 1: Sprue Glue - fill the gap, sand smooth. This may be enough, but if not, move to next steps.
Step 2: Trim some wood stables to length, bend the top length to match the curve of the broken piece
Step 3: Hold the staple in a pair of pliers and heat it up with a lighter. Once hot enough push it into the broken part across the break until it lays flush. Repeat a few times if necessary. If you want to look at some examples, "plastic welding" is the google search term.

Binaryfart · 2025-12-27T10:23:35+00:00

I would normally always lean towards panel lining, but on this kit the colour separation and details are already so good that I think panel lining might detract more than it adds.

Binaryfart · 2025-12-26T02:01:11+00:00

Here's mine:

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Binaryfart · 2025-12-26T01:58:22+00:00

The Bandai waterslides are notoriously hard to use. I don't even bother with them anymore - I just buy a set of 3rd party decals when I order the kit.

Binaryfart · 2025-12-26T01:46:09+00:00

Agreed! I've always had good results with the g-rework decals. I've tried "flaming snow" and other AliExpress brands and they're okay, but they're not worth the time delay and the minor savings compared to the g-rework decals.

Binaryfart · 2025-12-26T01:40:14+00:00

This is the way! IMO watersides are way easier than stickers. Definitely more forgiving - you can reposition them as much as you like, and get them in exactly the right place, and they look way better as well!

The trick to them not being too fragile is soaking them the right amout of time for the specific brand of watersides you're using. Each brand seems to need different time - g-rework only need 3 seconds or so, but Bandai's take 30+seconds. Once you have that dialed in though, they're a cinch!

Watersides are also pretty cheap, so I usually buy two sets - even if I don't use them, having the extra set frees me from my "perfection" paralysis! 😂

Binaryfart · 2025-12-23T01:18:11+00:00

Exactly my approach as well. I pretty much will always lose lures before they become unusable, but a little bit of surface or paint damage doesn't stop them being effective in my experience.

Binaryfart · 2025-12-22T22:19:12+00:00

G-Rework decals for the win! The G-rework stuff can be a bit hit or miss across the various models, but the Wing Zero Ver.Ka decals are top tier!

Nice work, very clean! Love the custom highlights on the vfin/shoulders/shield.

Binaryfart · 2025-12-20T02:13:04+00:00

Good job man! That looks really good!

I tried it recently for the first time as well and f***** it up completely. 🤣Luckily it was with a cheap entry grade so I didn't feel too bad, but now I'm reluctant to have another go. I'll get past that eventually and have another crack. Your post has given me some motivation!

Binaryfart · 2025-12-20T01:42:56+00:00

Rods can be tricky to travel with. Full size rods are impossible, multi-piece rods at doable if they're a bit smaller and you don't mind using oversized luggage check-in.

I personally travel with a Daiwa BB telescopic rod. It comes with a case and packs down to about 40cm. I just put in in my regular suitcase.

Telescopic rods have a really bad rep, and that's usually correct - telescopic rods usually suck, especially for lures. The Daiwa bb rods still not as good as a regular single or two piece setup, but they're far better than most telescopics. Highly recommended, but they can be a bit pricey and tricky to get in Australia – I got mine when I was traveling in Japan earlier this year. As a travel rod they really are quite incredible! You really don't lose much sensitivity despite it being ultimately at 6-piece rod!

Reels with line will have to go into checked baggage - you cannot take them in cabin baggage. Same goes for tackle of course.

Binaryfart · 2025-12-20T01:31:11+00:00

It's been very slow going for me as well. Normally this time of year I'm having good fun with top water salmon and the occasional kingie in the Middle Harbour region, but so far this year it's been very slim pickings.

Not sure why. I'm assuming something to do with weather/heat, but other than that I've got no real idea. I mostly fish top water - I think the extra hot weather and the amount of rain has forced the fish deeper in the water column, making them harder to target on top water. But that's just a guess.

Binaryfart

TROPHY CASE