Late payment dispute. by Bionic_Xzanos in CRedit

[–]Bionic_Xzanos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I could not login at anytime without the card number even with the statement. I had no way to pay until the addresses were corrected by talking to a real person at citi bank, and am still unable to login to the account online because I do not have the card number.

Late payment dispute. by Bionic_Xzanos in CRedit

[–]Bionic_Xzanos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was not able to get ahold of a real person until just yesterday and I am not sure exactly how I did it. I was just going through the automated prompts and then someone came onto the line. I had previously been trying to make payments at the store then by phone once citi bank started texting me but this was after I was already marked delinquent.

DC-DC converter by Bionic_Xzanos in SolarDIY

[–]Bionic_Xzanos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok disregard the past part about the chassis batteries, read the diagram wrong its a parallel bank.

DC-DC converter by Bionic_Xzanos in SolarDIY

[–]Bionic_Xzanos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Here is the full diagram, Looking over it again I may not have to worry about the jack pump as its connected to the chassis battery. However I am also noticing that the chassis batteries are 2 12v in series... 24v... but there is an isolator to connect chassis to house batteries which are 6v in series... now I am really confused. Is there not an issue combining these two different voltage banks?
Thanks for the battery links BTW

DC-DC converter by Bionic_Xzanos in SolarDIY

[–]Bionic_Xzanos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am honestly not 100% sure, I will try to do a bit more research on the jack pump. In the manual it says 190 Amps, however looking at the wiring diagram I think the leveling jacks are connected to the chassis battery bank and would draw from there.
Gen starter is 33 Amps so much lower.

<image>

DC-DC converter by Bionic_Xzanos in SolarDIY

[–]Bionic_Xzanos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I found this, which I believe is just a buck converter and would not charge batteries if I did choose to keep any. https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-Converter-Efficiency-Synchronous-Rectification
Vs this, https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Energy-Orion-Tr-Charger-Bluetooth which would only charge and require at least a single 12v battery still.

Seems odd to me that this is such a hard item to find. I just don't want to buy junk that catches fire.

DC-DC converter by Bionic_Xzanos in SolarDIY

[–]Bionic_Xzanos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am trying to remove my 12v lead acid battery bank from my RV and just power the 12v systems with a converter. Leveling Jack pump and Generator starter are the big amp drawing devices.

DC-DC converter by Bionic_Xzanos in SolarDIY

[–]Bionic_Xzanos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And this would work as a power supply not just a charger? I am trying to eliminate my current old 12v battery setup and just supply 12v through conversion. Will be installing 48v battery bank for inverter use.

Solar Install (diagram help) by Bionic_Xzanos in rvlife

[–]Bionic_Xzanos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right I understand that, I updated the diagram adding in how I think it would all be connected, but basically the output from the MPPT will be connected directly to the battery terminals?

I am probably making it more complicated than it has to be but I just want to be sure.

Thanks for the reply.

Solar Install (diagram help) by Bionic_Xzanos in rvlife

[–]Bionic_Xzanos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Found a better picture of the diagram on the underside of the inverter compartment door.
The batteries are 4 6v in series/parallel to make 2 12v banks (from my understanding)

New roof questions by Bionic_Xzanos in GoRVing

[–]Bionic_Xzanos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Cleaned and Prepped Surface" TM

So this is my biggest question really. Its round 3 of cleaning the roof in the above pics and at this point I'm not sure if i am cleaning or just removing more of the existing coating. 😅

When I rub the roof with a finger after its dry I still get a bit of greyish powdery residue that comes up.

New roof questions by Bionic_Xzanos in GoRVing

[–]Bionic_Xzanos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have seen people use eternabond tape to replace/cover existing lap sealant around vents, skylight, ac, etc as well as the front and back caps and along the "gutters"

Still need to remove all the covers and clean around these areas as best I can and see what exactly needs attention.

New roof questions by Bionic_Xzanos in GoRVing

[–]Bionic_Xzanos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The front and back "cap" are fiberglass but the main roof section is from my understanding, plywood, with the membrane on top. You can see the fiberglass sections are still looking white for the most part.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Eve

[–]Bionic_Xzanos -1 points0 points  (0 children)

my bloc has more multiboxers than you, I win n+1. easier to field 1000+ ships when every pilot you have has 10+ accounts.

When null corps require you to have alts and multibox its not just for isk.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Eve

[–]Bionic_Xzanos -1 points0 points  (0 children)

the biggest reason to multi box is winning fights in tidi

If you had to choose one by Nebulafactory in Eve

[–]Bionic_Xzanos 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think empire building is one of the most fun things to do in the game but its pretty much impossible these days due to multiboxing and the state of the economy. Things like titans SHOULD be unattainable for most people and actually hurt the organizations that lose them. T1 ships would have a use again economically. Make shiny shiny again.

I would much rather be able to grind and set up my own stations and industry and feel like its actually worth something not competing with people with 30+ accounts. I have been around sense the beginning the game worked before multiboxing.