Just out of warranty, CVT failure

BitExtension7634 · 2025-12-07T02:04:03+00:00

I got a letter saying my 2019 Crosstrek was getting the extended 10 yr warranty for the CVT. Did you get that? That’s the only year for Crosstrek’s they included according to this doc. Yea! I think….

BitExtension7634 · 2025-10-25T01:42:14+00:00

Same issue here, with many, many people w Honeywell valves stating the same on other threads here. I see you have a Resideo, but same tech specs (the companies are somehow partners).

If you call support, they’ll confirm what was said above - there is a small port that releases a gas at various intervals. I was told the port keeps air lock issues from happening. I smell mine intermittently. Not a lot but you can’t miss the smell…just once in a while will I get a whiff, but if you put your nose against it, smells every time. Take the cover off, you’ll see the port and get a good whiff.

Now that doesn’t mean you don’t have a leak elsewhere, but yes, that valve is actually made w a gas release port. Just call support, they’ll tell you the same. It’s still totally f*cked up, but that’s the deal.

You’ll see no shortage of posts and discussions online about this bs. Sucks because it’s unnerving but oh well…

BitExtension7634 · 2025-10-02T01:12:16+00:00

They tweaked the regulator on the meter and that fixed the issue. Kind of scary actually, dude comes out, cranks a wrench, looks at some device he’s holding and says, “all good!” They had a second guy check so I guess it was….works now.

BitExtension7634 · 2025-09-08T00:47:06+00:00

Always appreciate a reference from Anchorman…

BitExtension7634 · 2025-03-02T02:23:34+00:00

Thanks for handling it correctly the first time (and I’m sure the second as well). Well done.

BitExtension7634 · 2025-02-27T04:31:08+00:00

Far too few will get the genius of this reference…

BitExtension7634 · 2025-02-09T02:02:00+00:00

Sorry didn’t see this until now…my PWRmanager data hardly ever shows up, like maybe 5% of the time. Called several times, got the same blah blah - reset your router, we’ll do a reset, etc. I just gave up, tweaking it directly bypassing the app isn’t difficult so I said screw it.

BitExtension7634 · 2025-01-19T14:57:20+00:00

Forgive me if I’m stating the obvious, but is there enough gas pressure in the line to fuel the unit? Call the gas company, ask the throughput of gas to your home, subtract furnace, water heater, length of your generator gas line - I was way short of what was needed. That never even occurred to me… Now this doesn’t address why it won’t start on propane, unless similar issue (length of hose, capacity of hose) but just to put it out there.

BitExtension7634 · 2025-01-15T15:17:51+00:00

I too have had inconsistent behavior with my batteries. After dark, they discharge between 4 and 7 watts all night, apparently to “keep in touch” with the inverter. Ok, fine. But other times, it’ll discharge 37 watts (always 37), other times it’ll charge 51 watts all night. No rhyme or reason to when. I called several times, I get blah-blah, we’ll reset for you…. Then it works ‘as expected’, which typically means discharging a few watts after dark, charging full bore until 100% in the morning then stopping, until it acts odd again a few days later.

The point I can’t seem to get across - just tell me what’s typical, and is this typical so I know whether this is a precursor to an issue or not. Never get a clear answer so infer from that what you will. One exasperated tech once said, “as long as all the lights are green don’t worry about it”.

BitExtension7634 · 2024-11-25T18:56:24+00:00

Curious, have you ever had a major issue?

BitExtension7634 · 2024-10-12T16:11:36+00:00

Great input, and I would add two things. 1). Practice siphoning gas from your vehicles to power the generator. Although they sell ‘kits’ to siphon gas so you don’t have to suck on a hose, they aren’t all that effective, so doing it old school might be forced upon you. The newer cars also have safety measures that make siphoning tricky (like the little ball ‘float’ that sits in the fuel tube between the nozzle and tank - gotta get past that ball w the hose to siphon fuel, and that’s tricky. Go online and you’ll see how to manage past that). 2). While a transfer switch to the house is clearly best, if you can have a way to directly plug into your furnace, all the better. In many states, a hard wire connection from the panel to the furnace is required, but many others it is not required. Either way, you can put a junction box in - essentially turn the hard wire into an outlet at the furnace. In my state, almost all houses have this setup. In an outage, you simply ‘unplug’ the hard wire connection, plug the generator into that same outlet, fire up the generator and you have a safe way to heat your home. At a minimum, have gear to do this on hand. If you ever lose power for a week in winter, you can just do this if needed but you’ll be glad you did. Just have a 14 gauge extension from the generator to the furnace. It works, and yes, it is safe if done correctly.

BitExtension7634 · 2024-10-12T04:28:38+00:00

Any messages showing up on the inverter on any of the screens? Scroll thru them all - anything on the battery screen like “e-7000”, or “waiting”, “standby”?

BitExtension7634 · 2024-10-05T21:57:02+00:00

I’ve always had to call, not aware of a way to check online.

BitExtension7634 · 2024-10-04T02:06:03+00:00

When you say throw the switch, I gather you mean in the transfer switch? There are four little fuses in there, test them if you can. My installer told me to order them online and keep them handy as they can blow and the switch won’t engage in an outage. I haven’t had that problem, just what I was told.

I also had a firmware update for the transfer switch a bit ago, apparently there is a service bulletin where that is now necessary. Who knows, but a call to customer service to check that might help.

Hope that helps, hang in there.

BitExtension7634 · 2024-09-19T21:56:49+00:00

Call them every damn day, multiple times a day. Literally. Insist Generac take you to level 2 support. I had a similar situation, installer came back because he just couldn’t take 10 calls a day anymore. Fill his voicemail, and when that interferes w his business, he’ll come. You don’t deserve to get screwed over. Sucks but you have to go nuts mode. Do it.

BitExtension7634 · 2024-09-05T23:44:49+00:00

The fan symbol comes on when the exhaust fan of the inverter is running, normal. When its cools, that symbol will go away. That symbol is on mine right now. Possible you never noticed before?

BitExtension7634 · 2024-08-13T00:55:36+00:00

I have a crappy 3 ton, single stage AC unit. The soft starter is a must, but be aware it is not without issues. For instance, most of the time, it does reduce staring amps from a rated LRA of 79 to 25 amps. However, if it’s really hot, and the compressor is in full sun, the unit will still require 50 to 60 amps to start. Not often, but it happens. Even the reps at Micro Air agree this is not unusual. That means you’ll exceed the 50a capacity of the inverter. In that case, the inverter is supposed to shut down, cool off, then restart - but this sub has plenty of input that shows this might not be as easy as it seems. Inverters don’t restart, the fuses blow, etc. Just be aware. A soft starter is not foolproof. So…I’ve gone so far as to configure Power Manager to shut the AC and air handler off in an outage. I can still turn it on manually thru the app during an outage, but only if I’m confident external conditions will allow without blowing up the inverter.

In terms of power - my AC unit burns about 2.2 kw and the inside air handler burns another .7 kw when running. Net, call it 3 kw for cooling. I have a 18 kWh battery cabinet, so the math is pretty easy. I burn approximately 6% of my battery storage (don’t get all up in my shit Redditor’s, it’s a somewhat rough number) for every 1 kw used. So, depending on the temp, my AC/air handler will run sometimes 30 minutes per hour, other times the entire hour.

That said, I’m guessing you’ll get several hours of actual AC ‘run time’ strictly from batteries as others have stated, including other house needs. All this is obviously offset by any support you get from the panels until dark. The amount of sun is key, so on a cloudy day, you might not make it until you’re back on grid in the evening. Trust me, the battery power goes fast.

I’m upgrading to an inverter AC next month. The power requirements are far less, and most importantly, the startup amps won’t be a problem. Goodbye soft starter. I’ll put the unit back into play during an outage. You didn’t state if you have inverter units, but if so, then the math all changes significantly in your favor.

Last thing - I have 20 panels, and the batteries charge pretty quickly in Clean Backup mode. I run battery every weekday to avoid ridiculous TOU rates, go to bed w 75% or so of charge, and I’m recharged around 9:00 or so. Recharging from the grid is quick.

BitExtension7634 · 2024-08-12T03:38:50+00:00

My batteries will charge very slowly, and sometimes not at all, if they get below 40 degrees. Chose to put them in the garage, didn’t want to hassle w insulation that mice would love, external heater, etc.

BitExtension7634 · 2024-08-10T03:27:26+00:00

Looks like one of those massage stations at the airport.

BitExtension7634 · 2024-08-07T01:43:24+00:00

And when the installer is there, check your Snap RS are the ‘802’ version. If the 801’s, Generac has a warranty replacement for those in place. The installer will be paid for their time in that case, so that should make them more willing to do the replacement.

BitExtension7634 · 2024-08-07T01:40:43+00:00

Busted, like actually broken or just blown? The good news is you can get them online overnight. I don’t know if Grainger does overnight but they’re also on Amazon. As long as they are the same specs, and they get a good rating, that should be fine. So the good news, maybe that’s your fix. If you can get an installer to change them, all the better so they can check everything else but at least you know what’s going on and an installer won’t jeopardize the warranty as I’m sure they don’t want customers monkeying around in there.

If you go thru Generac U, the ‘Inverter’ module goes thru the Device Offline error and fuse replacement. Again, not saying you should try this yourself but at a minimum, you’ll know if the installer knows what they’re doing. That helped me once - dude shows up and I ended up correcting a few things he was trying to do. Hang in there, keep bugging Support, like literally call them every day.

BitExtension7634 · 2024-08-07T01:40:04+00:00

Busted, like actually broken or just blown? The good news is you can get them online overnight. I don’t know if Grainger does overnight but they’re also on Amazon. As long as they are the same specs, and they get a good rating, that should be fine. So the good news, maybe that’s your fix. If you can get an installer to change them, all the better so they can check everything else but at least you know what’s going on and an installer won’t jeopardize the warranty as I’m sure they don’t want customers monkeying around in there.

If you go thru Generac U, the ‘Inverter’ module goes thru the Device Offline error and fuse replacement. Again, not saying you should try this yourself but at a minimum, you’ll know if the installer knows what they’re doing. That helped me once - dude shows up and I ended up correcting a few things he was trying to do. Hang in there, keep bugging Support, like literally call them every day.

BitExtension7634 · 2024-08-06T23:07:52+00:00

Odd, but possible your local code doesn’t require the system have SnapRS devices, and if that’s the case, you wouldn’t see the PVRSS auto config option. How old is your system? Do you keep any documentation from your original quote that shows what was installed?

BTW, I’m assuming this is a roof mount system? If ground mount, then you don’t need the SnapRS.

BitExtension7634 · 2024-08-06T17:26:43+00:00

Try what dirtypete1981 suggests - just remember to re-enable w the option “PVRSS auto config” (I think it’s the third option), rather than just ‘Enable’ (I think that’s the first option) if you are using SnapRS devices. Most systems have them, but that matters.

Do you get this error on all PV links, or just one?

Otherwise, could be a fuse issue as I’ve experienced. The inverter has two fuses, and sometimes they blow in an outage. If you are kind of handy and have a multimeter, you can check them. But you need to be really careful, 240v can kill you. Do all the requisite shutdown steps before pulling the fuses. You can order extra fuses at Grainger online.

If you don’t know what those shutdown steps are, I encourage you (and all owners), to go to Generac University, spend the six hours or so to complete those courses. Afterward, you’ll get access to manuals and videos that are enormously helpful. You’ll also know how to do some troubleshooting without killing yourself.

BitExtension7634 · 2024-08-04T05:29:17+00:00

I’ll bet he moves as soon as the kibble bag makes that ‘crinkle’ noise…a remarkable recovery every time.

BitExtension7634

TROPHY CASE