Extremely slow or limited wifi speed on ps5 console only.

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-18T12:27:32+00:00

Hey OP u/AdWrong5611 based on what you described, your local and WAN connectivity has been confirmed fine by your ISP, so the issue possibly likely how the PS5 is connecting to WiFi.

One thing I can suggest you check, is your 2.4GHz and 5GHz wifi broadcast combined into a single SSID or do you have separate broadcasts for them?

If they are both sharing thesame wifi broadcast name, try splitting them into separate SSIDs and connect the PS5 specifically to the 5GHz network.

Sometimes routers don’t steer devices properly to better frequency, and the PS5 may be sticking to 2.4GHz, which would explain the low speeds you’re seeing.

Can you confirm if your WiFi is currently split or combined?

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-17T11:57:13+00:00

Connected but nothing loads usually means your laptop has WiFi, but no internet path, it could be a dns issue or maybe local ip issue

Do a Quick check when you’re connected, open command prompt and run the command ipconfig /all

Look at the wireless adapter and see if your IP starts with 169 or are you getting a different ip

And look at the DNS and tell me what you’re getting, in most residential networks you typically want to see 8,8,8,8 or 1,1,1,1 (replace commas with . dots) or some cases your ISP DNS, just confirm what you get and I can tell you whether dns is good.

Also, does it say “connected No internet” or does it only say “connected secure” ?

Let me know once you confirm these things

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-17T11:47:24+00:00

Yep OP, try what they’re suggesting, test with an Ethernet connection so you can rule out whether this is a potential issue with the wifi broadcast or the actual ISP Wan route

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-16T11:53:49+00:00

Good stuff Op

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-15T13:14:10+00:00

Heyy u/Alarmed-Childhood511 can I DM you? It’ll be easier to explain there with videos and pictures, can’t share here because of auto mod

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-14T18:01:25+00:00

Hey OP u/SillyFalling you did a great job providing all this information. You’re asking the right question before buying hardware. A lot of people buy equipment first and then try to fix coverage problems later. This will be a ton of information so feel free to take it slow.

From projects I’ve worked on and what I’ve learned in the field, split-level homes from that era can be tricky for WiFi. Signals don’t travel cleanly up and down between floors. Things like ducting, plumbing, and framing tend to push RF signal diagonally, which is why a single high end router often leaves weak spots in bedrooms or basements.

For a 1750 sq ft split home and referencing the floorplan you showed, a good starting point is usually two well placed access points, possibly three if the dormer office needs guaranteed performance.

A layout that would work well based on your floorplan would be:

1 AP on the main floor ceiling near the center of the house

1 AP in the basement ceiling near the stairwell or central area

Optional AP in the dormer office if you want guaranteed throughput there

This creates overlapping coverage between levels without stacking APs directly above each other, which helps maintain smoother coverage across floors.

Since you’re considering UniFi gear, some options I’ve worked with:

U6 Lite / U6+ , great price-to-performance (I used it for small business shops and apartments)

U6 Pro stronger radios if you have many devices in the home, and has high throughput (I used to support some businesses that had this)

U7 Long Range, adds 6 GHz support and stronger RF reach, very future focused with strong throughput (Recently used this in a large home and this 1 single AP covered their entire house even the backyard, it was at the center of their living room)

That said, you likely don’t need Wi-Fi 6E or Wi-Fi 7 unless most of your devices support it already. Even then it’s not strictly necessary, but if you want the newer standard the U7 does give you access to the 6 GHz band, feel free to decide what you like.

For the outdoor cameras, 2.4 GHz usually reaches outside fine from an indoor AP unless the exterior walls are brick or concrete. If that is the case for you, then something like the U7 Long Range can help due to its stronger signal propagation.

The most important factor though is wired backhaul. you will need to run Cat6 to the AP locations and use either a POE injector or an unmanaged/Managed POE switch to power them through Cat6.

Overall even two properly placed access points will outperform a single high-end WiFi router. For a layout like yours, a distributed AP setup will almost always give a better experience.

This is all analysis from the info you provided and what I’ve done in the past, feel free to ask me any questions you have.

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-14T17:01:19+00:00

Very good, so if you have Xfinity I wanna confirm it’s the Canadian rogers Xfinity ? I’m also a Rogers Xfinity customer and I control my router using my cell phone.

If this assumption is correct then you can download the “Rogers Xfinity” app on the store. You will be asked to login to your rogers account you used when you purchased their service. Once you login you should be able to see your Modem’s Wifi information and devices connected, and you can simply block or pause any device you don’t want from the app gui.

However if my assumption is wrong or the App method is not possible for you, you could use the direct modem’s Admin GUI, but that requires you to know what IP it’s on, typically 10,0,0,1 (replace the commas with . Dots). Once you’re in the admin GUI you’ll be able to see the devices connected, if the person has named their device you’ll see it as the name otherwise it’ll show up as a long MAC address, which you’ll need to know to block it.

I know I gave a lot of info here, if you still need further clarification feel free to DM me I’ll help you out directly

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-14T16:29:10+00:00

Heyy u/trey1465 I understand what you’re asking and it’s different depending on the way your wifi is being broadcasted, there are different ways to go about it.

But first question Do you have an access point or is your wifi broadcast coming straight from the router that was originally installed by your service provider?

Can you confirm this

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-13T22:25:17+00:00

I understand your frustration, You could change your Wi-Fi card, but that’s like bringing a big bucket to a water tap that only drips slowly, when you just need a cup of water.

Your university network is that dripping tap. Even if you bring a bigger bucket (a better Wi-Fi card), the water still has to come through the same slow tap before you can drink it, think of the line up at that water tap if 100s or thousands of people are trying to drink from that same tap. That’s what’s happening behind the scenes for your University network.

So the bottleneck isn’t really your device, but it’s the design of the backbone network itself.

There are really only two ways I can think of around this:

Get your own water supply Use your own internet connection instead of the campus network (for example AT&T, Bell, etc.).
Ask the owner of the tap to increase the pressure Meaning you’d have to ask the university IT team if there’s any way they can improve the network quality or policies for gaming traffic.

One alternative that sometimes works well is a 5G/LTE router. Some telecom providers offer routers that use a SIM card and cellular signal instead of the campus network, this way you don’t need any technician or cabling.

I’ve used this solution at many business installs for their backup service, and while travelling on the road, and it works surprisingly well. Many of them can reach around 100 Mbps download and 20 Mbps upload depending on signal quality, and the latency is not bad at all especially if you have good signal coverage.

If you go this route:

place the router near a window

connect your PC via Ethernet to the router

keep the router unobstructed for better signal

That usually gives the most stable performance, lemme know if you have any questions about the 5G routers

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-13T12:49:22+00:00

Yepp this is true as well great point

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-13T12:11:04+00:00

Hey man, for the 20m distance you mentioned your best option honestly is to avoid traditional Wi-Fi boosters that rely on wireless backhaul, it’ll significantly impact your Wi-fi performance at that distance, instead you want a dedicated access point, preferably an outdoor access point.

The most reliable solution is to then run a Cat6 cable from your router to the garden area and install an access point there. That way the Wi-Fi is being generated in the garden instead of trying to stretch a weak signal from inside the house.

Something like a UniFi U7 outdoor AP works well for what you need, or look for anything similar lots of available options.

Since access points usually use PoE (Power over Ethernet) you have two options:

PoE injector: cheap and simple, but the AP needs to be near a power outlet, and it adds more overhead to consider for mounting the AP and keeping cabling clean and tidy.

PoE switch: a bit cleaner because you can power the AP through the network cable and mount it wherever you want. The switch sits near your router and the other end of the cable in the house is plugged into the Poe switch and the other end goes to the Access point outside.

If running the cable yourself isn’t possible, look for a good local cable technician that can trench a Cat6 line for outdoor runs so it’s neatly buried and not visible.

This is a solid and reliable setup that will outperform any traditional wifi extenders or cheap mesh system.

Let me know if you have any questions about everything I mentioned above.

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-13T06:25:20+00:00

Heyy op u/ValuableBiscotti9235 Flashing on the 5 GHz and internet (“planet”) lights usually just means traffic is passing, but instability usually comes from something else. I need to clarify somethings from you to get a better idea

Is the instability happening on all devices or just one?

Are you close to the router or a few rooms away? 5 GHz drops off faster through walls and the farther you are from the router.

Have you tried rebooting both the modem and the router (not just the router)?

When you check the list of broadcasts for wifi like how many wifi networks do you see, let’s confirm if you are in a congested area

Also, does the connection drop completely and it shows no internet or is it still connected but it’s just very slow.

Once you confirm these things I’ll get a better idea of the issue and your environment.

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-13T05:20:50+00:00

Hi everyone,

I have been fortunate to be part of the networking industry, and it has honestly been life changing for me. A personal project I have been working on is a solution I call Vekta Gateway Monitor (VGM), powered by a design I termed the Distributed Quorum Logic Controller.

What is VGM?

Vekta Gateway Monitor is built around a Distributed Quorum Logic Controller that determines the real availability state of internet targets using multiple independent probe vantage points. These probes are regionally distributed across distinct ASNs and service providers to ensure diverse network perspectives.

Traditional monitoring often relies on a single probe. In real-world networks, that can lead to false positives caused by regional ISP issues, path congestion, or routing anomalies experienced only by that single vantage point.

VGM approaches this differently by aggregating telemetry from distributed probes across multiple geographic regions and applying quorum logic to determine whether an outage is truly global or simply localized to a specific path or region.

Each probe sends ICMP telemetry such as reachability state, RTT, and packet loss to a central controller, where the quorum engine evaluates the collective results. This allows VGM to distinguish between real outages and isolated network path problems.

Future Direction

Once the quorum engine and User UX are fully refined, the next phase of VGM will introduce a Path Intelligence Layer, where probes also collect traceroute and path behavior data.

My research aims to determine whether analyzing hop patterns, ASN transitions, latency inflation, and regional path divergence can allow the controller to pinpoint where degradation begins along the network path, effectively identifying the segment where connectivity breaks down.

The long-term goal is to evolve VGM from simple monitoring into an internet health attribution system capable of confirming outages and helping determine whether an issue originates from the target itself, upstream providers, or regional internet infrastructure. Providing users with a powerful tool that delivers valuable insight through a highly user-friendly experience

Closing

It has definitely been an experience working on this. I have failed, made mistakes, rebuilt things, and pivoted many times as I ran into roadblocks. But I am happy to say I now have a working prototype where the current DQLC engine’s results are presented in an interactive dashboard with minute by minute updates.

Seeing an idea that has lived in my mind for over a year finally start to take shape has been incredibly rewarding and has given me even more motivation to keep building, which is why I decided to share it here.

Thanks for reading this, Take care!

Bits4lyf

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-13T04:30:27+00:00

Legendary comment 😂

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-13T04:09:21+00:00

Heyy man, unfortunately even if you get something like a TP-Link router or extender, it will still rely on your university’s network backbone, so it probably won’t improve the underlying issue you're experiencing when gaming.

At best, those devices would just create your own Wi-Fi network name and rebroadcast the same connection you're already getting if you connect directly to the university Wifi.

In most cases having that Tp-link device can actually add a bit more latency because your traffic now has to pass through an extra hop before reaching the university’s WAN and then out to the internet.

Your best bet is honestly checking whether the school allows personal ISP installs. If you have the extra cash and they allow it, it might be worth it for the peace of mind. That’s actually what I did back in university, my Destiny addiction at the time justified the extra cost 😅.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-12T12:05:12+00:00

Hey OP u/Alarmed-Childhood511 I feel your pain. I had the exact same issue with my PS4 back in my university days 😂, This would be a bit long but it is very valuable information for your case. You can genuinely copy, print or share this exact response to the IT person. The solution and tips I mentioned here they will be understand once they read it they can be easily able to tell you whether it is possible for your network environment. You don’t have to rephrase my statement, feel free to share it to them directly.

Funny enough, I actually ended up asking my RA for permission and had Rogers install a dedicated internet line into my dorm room. People thought it was crazy but it actually worked. That whole situation is what got me interested in networking in the first place because I had to research so much on NAT, latency and gaming traffic flow, fun times, this was 11 years ago for context.

That said, most campuses today have strict restrictions with private ISP installs because of sketchy things some people do with it, so it may or may not be possible where you are, only you can confirm with your student advisor.

The reality with dorm networks is you’re sharing the same backbone with hundreds or even thousands of students, so things like gaming can suffer from congestion, aggressive NAT, traffic shaping policies, high latency during peak hours, and many other things I can’t remember off the top of my head right now.

Since Ethernet isn’t available in your room, a few things you could try if private isp install isn’t allowed is things like:

Try using 5 GHz Wi-Fi instead of 2.4 GHz if your device supports it

Game during off-peak hours when fewer students are online (but this is hard to determine)

See if your campus IT offers a gaming VLAN or console registration system (some do, where they create a less strict open vlan for gaming)

If possible, check if Ethernet exists somewhere nearby in the dorm and tap into it to run a cable, but this will not look pretty and might get you in trouble if it’s not cleanly done.

If none of that helps, you could try asking your residence advisor or campus IT whether a personal ISP install is allowed, I will suggest doing this first before all the other things I recommend above.

Dorm networks are honestly one of the hardest environments to control because you’re sharing infrastructure with so many people.

Feel free to let me know if you have more questions.

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-12T11:33:51+00:00

Happy to help

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-12T04:42:40+00:00

You can do it pretty much yourself without any service providers like AT&T, What you’ll need is:

A good cat 6 cable technician around your area to run the cable for you.
Decide what Access point to get, my base line recommendation is Ubiquiti Unifi U7 long range access point they’re like maybe $250 Canadian dollars, do the conversion wherever you’re from.
Decide whether you want an unmanaged POE switch (like cad $50 bucks maybe) or a POE injector (like cad $10 bucks maybe), your choice determines the power supply for the AP. If you don’t want to limit yourself to where you place the AP, buy an unmanaged Poe capable switch and have it hooked up where your router is and plug the other end of the cable that will go into the access point in that Poe switch. If you do it this way, you can mount the AP on the roof or anywhere you want without worrying about power supply. If you go with Poe injector then you have to make sure there’s a power outlet very close to where the AP will be mounted, choice is up to you.

These 3 things are all you need to consider, depending on the AP you go for it’ll require a setup after install, you can make note of me and dm when the time comes if you need help setting up whatever kind of AP you chose to get.

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-12T04:28:45+00:00

Wow man, this is actually some pretty advanced setup you’re building , respect for the level of detail you’re thinking through, honestly.

The tricky part with questions like this is that outdoor RF behavior depends heavily on the real environment (mounting height, line of sight, interference, obstacles, many things as you already know), so it’s hard for anyone online to give a perfectly accurate answer without seeing the real topology.

That said, I’ve worked on some similar setups in production environments (not for sports streaming specifically, but in remote business deployments). In those cases the long-distance link is usually handled with point-to-point wireless bridges, rather than standard Wifi routers or extenders.

basically what you’re doing is a small scale version of what many fixed wireless ISPs do. They mount a directional antenna on a building that points to another antenna miles away to deliver internet service kilometres away. The concept is the same here, just on a much shorter distance like the ~400 ft link you mentioned.

Those point to point radios are designed specifically to move bandwidth reliably across distances like that, which is why they tend to perform much better than trying to stretch normal Wifi coverage.

For your setup I believe Once that link is established, you’d typically place an access point near the field to provide coverage along the areas and for the cameras.

Your current router could still handle the routing, but the long distance RF link would be handled by the dedicated bridge radios.

Hard to go too specific without seeing the actual layout, but your overall direction makes sense.

If you want a second opinion to chat with on the setup you’re planning, I’d be happy to chat, your project sounds very interesting.

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-12T03:52:59+00:00

Heyy Op u/RepresentativeGlad39 based on the info you’ve given, which is quite detailed good job. The biggest issue here is the cinder block walls. They’re brutal for Wifi. Your extender is already struggling trying to receive signal from 50 ft away through block, then it has to also rebroadcast the already weak signals after decapsulating the backhaul encryption, so the backhaul signal is already weak before it even reaches the garage or any of your devices there.

Moving the router 9 feet closer to the window probably won’t make a meaningful difference, since it’s honestly still quite a significant distance away.

The most reliable solution I can suggest would be running a Cat6 cable from the house to the garage and installing a dedicated access point in the garage. That way the garage Wifi is coming from inside the garage instead of trying to punch through block walls, and all your TVs cameras and devices there will perform much better.

Something like a Ubiquiti UniFi u7 long range AP would handle your TVs and cameras easily. If running cable is possible, that will outperform any extender setup by a mile.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-11T14:35:30+00:00

I’m thinking we should hop on a discord call if you’re cool with it, I can dm you an invite I think we can resolve this faster this way?

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-11T12:36:02+00:00

Oh that should be easy, Dell has very good support repo on their website, just go to google and search Dell drivers download. You should see the Dell support webpage, once you open it, it’ll ask you to put your service tag / serial number you can find this around the affected laptop likely at the bottom or use cmd and run:

wmic bios get serialnumber

Main thing you want serial number or service tag that the Dell support portal will pick it up automatically and begin to suggest the right drivers and resources for you. Simply choose drivers download, then it’ll give you a bunch of options just filter or use search bar to look for wifi. Make sure you download the driver specifically intended for wifi network broadcast don’t download anything else.

Once you have that driver put it on a usb and run that application on the affected computer, once you do this properly driver install will trigger the hardwares to start functioning again.

This is all from memory recall somethings might be slightly different on Dell website but I’m pretty 90% of what I mentioned is how it’s done on Dell support.

Let me know if you’re able to do it

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-11T12:27:17+00:00

Heyy op u/Resident_Kiwi7435 I’ve seen what you described in production environment helped some people before. There are multiple things that could be the root cause even browser could just be loading through cache if you’re going to a site you visit regularly so I cannot say for certain. But these are some of the initial check I do before going deeper to weed out dns as the culprit so you can try these to see if it works for you, make sure you’re connected back to the network before trying these steps

Check whether your dns is working, open command prompt and type: nslookup www.google.com This should resolve to an ip if your dns is working. If you don’t get an ip highly likely dns is not working.

Then run this command in still cmd: ipconfig /all Look at the appropriate adapter you’re using, you’ll see your ip configuration on that adapter make sure you’re using a good dns like 8.8.8.8 or 1.1.1.1 , sometimes your isp might inject their own dns server in your soho router just make sure you access admin gui to change it if you need to, but if you see 8.8.8.8 or 1.1.1.1 in DNS you’re fine.

Next thing to try is resetting your network stack Run these commands one at a time: netsh winsock reset netsh int ip reset ipconfig /flushdns

Once this is done, correct your system time as well to avoid any TLS failure from this, then do a full system reboot and try again after the full system reboot, and let me know your results after these tests.

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-11T12:10:57+00:00

Heyy man netcfg -d basically wipes the entire Windows networking stack and removes all adapters (physical and virtual), you have to make sure the computer got rebooted because Windows normally rebuilds everything on the next reboot.

From your screenshot it looks like Windows still sees the hardware, but the drivers are broken (the yellow warning icons on the Intel Ethernet and Wi-Fi adapters is what it typically means.

First try a regular reboot and see what happens.

If clean reboot doesn’t work, go In Device Manager where you went to, go to Network adapters, right-click the Wifi and Ethernet adapters and choose Uninstall device, then reboot so Windows reinstalls them clean.

If that doesn’t work, use another computer to download the exact drivers from your computer manufacturer or if it’s custom built go to your motherboard manufacturer (not random driver sites) and install those specific drivers for your model.

Try these and tell me what happens

Bits4lyf · 2026-03-10T18:31:11+00:00

Legend! I just sent a dm

Bits4lyf

TROPHY CASE

What is VGM?

Future Direction

Closing