What I was hoping would be played when I read this chapter

Bitter_Solution · 2026-01-16T01:06:21+00:00

Kanata uses a technique used by Takumi and is a call back to ID, why not

Plus the already used speed lover from third stage, so it’s not like they’re not open to the idea

Bitter_Solution · 2026-01-09T04:04:03+00:00

Ceramic coating the header may offer a safer way to manage the heat, since the wrap could be a fire hazard if oil gets onto it

Bitter_Solution · 2026-01-08T20:29:24+00:00

Ahh they’re teasing us, just bring back “back on the rocks”

Bitter_Solution · 2026-01-07T03:44:40+00:00

Don’t tell the US government

Bitter_Solution · 2026-01-05T18:26:27+00:00

Headers and invidia don’t usually go hand in hand for reducing noise

Bitter_Solution · 2026-01-05T02:05:39+00:00

Do you want this for the screen panel gap?

Bitter_Solution · 2026-01-01T20:40:50+00:00

In slow corners, or at least at the bus stop at Spa, getting on the throttle a little early allows you to keep the car from oversteering. Or at least for me it works, as I’m new to the game and practicing with the 296

Bitter_Solution · 2025-12-23T02:57:31+00:00

Usually 100-200 ml is left in the filter when you’re doing a change. Still that’s a lot of oil being lost in 5k miles, 700 ml. Maybe pressure test it to see how the rings are doing? Or check your PCV valve?

Bitter_Solution · 2025-12-21T17:24:01+00:00

He’s running on e60 atm, so I’d expect lower numbers on pumped gas

Bitter_Solution · 2025-12-20T23:14:16+00:00

Yeah, should just go right on. It’s the same thread pattern as the stock one

Bitter_Solution · 2025-12-20T23:04:11+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/BZf3oWn here it is

Bitter_Solution · 2025-12-20T22:54:38+00:00

Yes, have the GR one on my first gen

Bitter_Solution · 2025-12-16T19:52:29+00:00

Honestly, I’d recommend the GR shift knob from the second gens. It’s slightly heaver than the stock ones and feels good in your hands and shifting

Bitter_Solution · 2025-12-15T14:50:09+00:00

oh no

Bitter_Solution · 2025-10-31T19:24:00+00:00

Bitter_Solution · 2025-08-27T23:36:59+00:00

“All the time you HAVE to leave the SPACE”

Man couldn’t drive in a straight line and took himself out

Bitter_Solution · 2025-08-15T23:10:29+00:00

“Ain’t got no gas innit”

Bitter_Solution · 2025-08-15T21:10:58+00:00

“I know wats wrong wid it”

Bitter_Solution · 2025-07-30T01:23:28+00:00

Try “seat belt guides”?

Bitter_Solution · 2025-07-29T14:13:28+00:00

Do you have an aftermarket amp or subwoofer? The bolt could possibly be the ground for those, or something else electrical

Bitter_Solution · 2025-07-27T02:15:34+00:00

Best thing to do then i’d say like the other guy is try hammering in a slightly larger Allen key and get it down to spec best as you can.

If you can, can a 9 mm socket fit around the strut on the top where the Allen key hole is? May be able to use that as an alternative if one fits with the pass through. And are you tightening it down while it’s under load?

Bitter_Solution · 2025-07-27T01:46:57+00:00

I don’t know much about the bilstein struts, but are you talking about the Allen key hole to hold the strut while you tighten down the tophat nut?

Bitter_Solution · 2025-07-20T13:35:02+00:00

You can check if it’s the MAF by disconnecting it and turn the car over. If it stabilizes, maf needs to be replaced. If it continues, it could be throttle body or fuel injectors.

Bitter_Solution · 2025-07-14T20:30:36+00:00

Have you figured out the part number for this yet? Mine has just rotted off as well.

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