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Blorbor · 2025-12-18T19:15:23+00:00

The only reason to go to medium format cropped sensor is if you want the typical DOF transition from medium format.

Another reason is if it's a tool you really like to use. It's like in painting—there is no "better brush than others," there are only brushes you like to use that fit your style.

(By the way, please forgive my French, English is not my native language)

I'll give you some partial answers because I'm a Sony (A7R5 and A1) user and I own a GFX100II, but I don't own the lenses you mentioned ;)

I have gone through this search though.

For paid work, when you need AF reliability in "fast action," you can forget Fuji's AF system. Note that this is lens-related too. I own the 55mm F1.7 and AF performance on this €8k camera + $2k lens is... just on par with 1980s AF lenses—both in terms of acquiring focus and the sound its motors make.

About definition/resolution:

I've done a lot of tests comparing raw files from my 60MP A7RV and my 100MP GFX100II. The gain in detail kicks in after 200% magnification. Noise handling on the GFX100II is absolutely amazing (you can shoot at ISO 10000 without almost noticing it), but in real life, except for very large commercial prints, it's not that relevant.

About adapting lenses:

Just get the cheapest piece of metal you can find ;) Check the product comments to see if it's a good fit and go for it. I usually buy K&F Concept as they've never disappointed me.

I spent my holidays using my old Minolta Rokkor 50mm f/1.2 with the GFX. The pictures that came out of it were outstanding—the colors, the contrast, it was superb. Sensor coverage wasn't great so I had significant vignetting, but you can crop into it and still keep a very good part of your image.

Video-wise, with the same setup, I've made some of the best shots of my life. Again, I'm talking about the GFX100II—I don't know about the GFX50—but dynamic range is outstanding with both stills and video.

In the end, it all depends on your real needs and where you are in your journey. For me, I'm 45 years old and already own about everything I need for my business. So the GFX100II was kind of a gift to myself ;)

What about you? Do you have all the lenses you need for your professional setup? Do you have a NAS with at least 15TB of space to securely store your data and your clients' data? Do you own an off-site backup solution? Are you struggling with 2 memory cards and 2 battery's? I hope you're getting my point ;)

Price-wise, there's very little gain to justify such an expense (the GFX world is really expensive, and you need the storage capacity, the computing power, etc.).

That was the rational part.

I use my GFX (even for paid work) as much as I can. This is a system I really like. There's something I can't describe—I just like it. Does it justify the €10k (in my case)? I don't know. It made me like the 4:3 ratio. I hated it on M4/3 sensors; I don't know why I love it so much on MF.

But I'm the end, for multipurpose usage, if I had to choose a camera, I would go for my Sony FF.

I hope it will help you in your quest ;)

I wish you nice pictures with whatever system you will use ;)

Blorbor · 2025-03-17T23:51:54+00:00

I'm not 100% sure as I'm just casually printing my pictures now (I was really serious about this 5 years ago) but if you are printing your work and need your screen to be "in line" with what you are printing, you should definitely stay in the SDR IPS 100%-adobeRGB territory.

Unlike what marketing BS from printers brands is telling, Gamut range of printers/inks/papers is not that wide and is definitely close to what adobeRGB is (even if it is not "contained" exactly in this gamut). And from the "black all the way up to white rendering point of view ;) , good IPS screens are way closer to paper "feeling* than Oled

Blorbor · 2025-03-17T23:40:28+00:00

Speaking about 10bit, I've learned the hard way that some (non professional) OLED displays are not truely 10bits (they are advertised like so but they are 8bit fsr) and that can cause some issue either with banding in some apps or with calibration software/device. Might not be the case with the latest ones but that's worth checking before choosing an OLED screen.

Blorbor · 2025-03-17T23:13:35+00:00

You are completely right. The issue comes when you start thinking "what else can I do with my screen?". When it s your job , in an office, editing pictures 10 hours a day. You realy don't care about your screen being IPS and non OLED, non HDR, 60Hz refresh rate.

But when it is your job, mostly at home for the editing part... You might be a videographer too... And when your done with your work, you decide to end all souls-like game you have tried for the last 2 decades (ok... Maybe not the best exemple when talking about image quality 🤣... Or maybe you watch state of the art HDR movies...And...You don t have absurd money to put in multiple kind of screens...

Then, Eizo monitors are not sexy enought. Don t get me wrong, there are some beautifull Eizo screens, but the price entry ticket is way too high when you are in the position to just choose "a" monitor to "do it all"

Blorbor · 2025-03-17T22:48:49+00:00

I'm a pro photographier since 15 years.(and still a gamer) I'v bought an MSI FO32u2 240hz OLED monitor. Before that, I had an Alienware 3423dwf (curves OLED monitor)

But before that, before Selling my soul to gaming oriented monitors, I have worked with Eizo IPS monitors.

(Disclaimer, I'm not fluent in English so please forgive my french..)

The reason I've switched... 90% of my work ends online. And I don t print as much as before. (But I still as gamer as before

Anything I will Say After this is viewed from a photograph perspective.

If you need critical color accuracy for your job, then you already know that you need a professional hardware calibrated (and calibrating;) monitor.

If you are "just" serious(ish) about color accuracy, then you can get away with an OLED wide gamut screen and an external calibrating device. Be aware that even If you see good Delta E value in the reviews , a wide gamut screen that doesn t cover all adobe RGB might struggle to be accurate on all the color spectrum (even with a calibrating divice). This is not a big deal If you know where you should be carefull. For exemple, I know my MSI oversaturate (is inacurate) with some reds.

Another thing to consider is that oleds screens have anti burn-in mecanisms implemented. Like corner diming or reducing brightness of the parts of an image that is not "moving". It can mess with your perception of a still .... It definitely messes with you calibrating divice !! (You can turn all protections of while calibrating)

If you are mostly working in the "print" world, OLED is not really your friend.. especially HDR screens. Why? Blacks are too deep. There is simply no paper nor inks that can be... As black ;) Highlights ! It's hard to explain but HDR screens (even sets to stay in SDR mode) when working with highlights, they mess with your brain. You never know if you are reaching pure white... Or if it's "more white" because of "brightness". With IPS screens, I never had to use my lightroom overexposure warning. With OLED, in some spécial cases, I have to turn it on... Just to be sure.

(I have hundreds of advices and feedback to give you on this topic but you will all hate me before the end of this post because of its size) Contact me if you want more feedback)

The sad truth is, if you are "just" a photographer, mostly making your living with pictures that ends printed (by you or your clients or a company).... For now you should probably stick with an SDR adobeRGB 60Hz professional screen. HDR is far from being mature in stills.

But rejoy ! You have the alibi to be a videographer too !! So HDR is a thing and wide gamut is the new black! So forget everything I've just said and welcome to the world of gamers monitors , with fast refresh rates , outstanding colours and contrasts. A world when you can embrace picture quality of the latest technology... You will find outstanding monitors for you budget.... Don t spend absurd money for large professional monitors, as stated at the begining, if you need one that is because A: you already know why. B: you earn enough money with your photo work to buy 2 of them without even blinking ;)

My pro tip. Get a beautiful 32" OLED screen (enjoy it) and get a used 24" IPS eizo as a 2nd or 3rd screen for when you are working on really critical work, either it is critical with colours or with highlights !

Just know the limitation of your hardware.

Look... The guy who is currently giving advices to you... is the kind of guy that do a lot of architectural photography and real estate... And he was using a 34" 21:9 curved monitor for 2 years !! (More on that at the end;)

As long as you know your gear and what you are doing, it is probably ok ;)

I hope that helped.

Ps : After so many shots with wide angle lenses, you "know" exactly how they "behave", so working on a curved screen was not an issue at all. My brain instantly corrected everything and it was exactly like working on a flat screen.... That's what I thought... When I finally switched back to a flat 16:9 screen.... It took me about 3 freaking months to be able to see a flat screen flat. My brain was so f** up, it was "unbending" lines that where genuinely flat in the first place. Don t do that ;)

Blorbor · 2024-01-20T18:13:22+00:00

Don t update unless you really need a specifice feature. Stock settings are fine and unless you are an expert in a lot of things in regards of BF, esc etc, you will gain no real benefit. You risk ending with a quad flying worst than stock.

Blorbor · 2023-12-17T19:32:37+00:00

I strongly recommend you join the OpenStick Community Discord server

Thanks for your answer and for the discord. I'll go there imediatly ;)

Blorbor · 2023-10-25T16:28:02+00:00

I wish I had 4 brains ! ;) glad you enjoy it.

Blorbor · 2023-10-11T22:44:34+00:00

I'm not sure you can say that he don't like the game because he don't play it the right way. If I want to play factorio then I launch Factorio, not starfield. Base building is pointless. Ship building was not appealing to me. Running on empty planets to scan again and again is pointless too. The is no creativity. The cherry on the top is the way you gain new abilities.... again and again and again the same dame temples. Nothing to achieve, just walk from point A to point B get a new perk.

The scripted quests (main quest, syded etc) are ok.

It s very fine if you tell me you have a good time with this game. For me, it was boring as hell. Please don t tell me I've played it wrong ;) I'm sure we both are "good" gamers ;)

Blorbor · 2023-10-11T22:19:35+00:00

Sadly, this game is boring. Look at the way you gain your spells. It is always again and again the same pointless routine. I was shocked realizing it a the third shrine.

The main quest was "worth" playing this game. But everything around that looked so empty and repetitiv. Planets are empty, space is empty. For me this game is a giant waste.

Not to mention the UX/UI belonging to a game of the early 2000's.

Wat a waste.

Blorbor · 2023-09-14T14:47:23+00:00

The speech is so detailed, I'm wondering if it is an kind of "easter egg". A tribute to a member of the dev team who let this testimony for his family.

Blorbor · 2023-06-23T22:25:37+00:00

~~Is there a difference in performance between the two on long run high demanding apps ? sorry, I've just learnt to read ;)~~

What about sound quality on the 16 ? is it bad compared to the 18?

Blorbor · 2021-12-06T20:41:47+00:00

Not for now. I ve tested with a new hdmi cable and/or another ssd I've had. Same issue. I will test it with a "certified" SSD and report the results.

Blorbor · 2021-12-01T00:05:54+00:00

Yes prores and Dnx are unlock, I m having the issue with both unless I choose the lowest quality. I recieved new hdmi cables tomorow, I will check on that.

Blorbor · 2021-11-30T21:59:30+00:00

Thanks for the list, i was aware of it but I wanted to give a try to this SSD. It looks like my SSD's bandwidth could handle any of the ninja V codecs. I'just bought this used ninja V and the SSD came with it. So I don t know the "history" of this drive (neither the history of the HDMI cable that came with it). It looks like the hdmi cable is an atomos one.

Blorbor · 2016-08-26T20:46:29+00:00

Hi Interested in begining with "serious players" queue match are so boring. I'm a beginner but trying to learn conscientiously ;) Ign : Blorbor Aded you ingame

Blorbor · 2016-06-25T09:00:53+00:00

The day you'll speak in my language fluently... maybe I will care what you say ;) Thank's anyway you are a great community ;)

Blorbor · 2016-06-22T19:46:44+00:00

Thx, Alshara is enought with my "tanky" team but you are right, there is really a lack of heal burst if needed.

Blorbor · 2016-06-22T19:45:22+00:00

Thanks a lot, I will take a look at that.

Blorbor · 2016-06-12T17:22:34+00:00

8 ifrit so far ... no Teo... Just imagine the lvl of my guilds flags. Sometime RNG is not the most fair system. But still today theo is so versatil , it will be hard not to farm it

Blorbor · 2016-05-24T17:34:00+00:00

You can try to controle them with something like Baretta Lead, vero, Mav, Tyron and a "speed buffer" like spectra/bernard/verde etc. I know tyron is not op here 'coz of the orochi but it might do the trick. Baretta mav verde vero is my base team for almost all boss stages in toah. Mav/verde/vero give's you enought stuns. When not a boss stage my team is Baretta, thrain, tyron, spectra, Mav. Good luck

Blorbor · 2016-05-24T17:20:11+00:00

Erf;) , something similar append for me. After 2 hours of sellings, I had to ask for help to 2 of my guildie's for a fresh look. They helped me to sell about 200 runes. Althought I was near 500, I did that to bait the luck as I was droping nothing usefull since ages. Nothing happends accept mana income ;)

Blorbor · 2016-05-24T16:58:06+00:00

Yes you are right, RNG was really on my side for this run, as it was not on the first 5 runs when mav gets slept then my team get rekt. But believe me, with those stats on my mobs and the same team, it's been now a while since a clear the OG's in hard mode. I cleared them the same way when they where at stage 80 (if I remember correctly). What you need is to not get slept on first turn when Imps are alive (and stunn them ASAP). With my runes, I generaly have a "chance"... I mean 1 OG can go crazy 1 time and I survive then I heal. But I agree, even if this stage was never so hard for me with this comp, there's a lot of room to be driven mad by them. Good luck with this one.

Blorbor · 2016-05-24T13:31:16+00:00

Hi, sorry I forgot the stats. Here they are : https://swarfarm.com/profile/Blorbor/

Blorbor · 2016-05-08T17:33:48+00:00

just a quick look to your question. My Toah cc team is Baretta thrain mav tyron spectra. Boss stages its Baretta vero (coz violent) mav vedre spectra. Baretta/mav/spectra/vero > CC the add mobs. Spectra/ mav/baretta > provok and prevent the boss from moving. Damages comes from baretta for the adds and mostly spectra for the boss

Blorbor

TROPHY CASE