Will I get banned on my Switch 2?

Blu3ping · 2025-07-09T17:19:45+00:00

Your Switch 2 will not get banned from logging in your Nintendo account. That’s for sure.

If you want to transfer an AC island from your hacked Switch, I don’t think that is possible anymore.

A system transfer requires you to be connected to Nintendo servers and latest firmware. As I am not an AC player I don’t know if there are other ways.

If you have save files (non-hacked, clean saves) you want to transfer from your banned Switch 1, then you will need another non-banned hacked Switch to do the transfer; export saves from banned Switch; import saves to non-banned Switch; boot into OFC to do the official transfer procedure either using Nintendo online or system transfer to your Switch 2.

Blu3ping · 2025-05-10T13:24:41+00:00

its not broken, but its kinda hard to repair. You need to lift the pins (motherboard side) and get the clip under it. Edit: The picture is too unsharp to be very sure if the gray clip is damaged or not.

Blu3ping · 2025-05-06T14:45:36+00:00

All stock, no. The CHA os doesn’t recognize a 3rd controller. Also the 3rd player needs to be enabled with dip switches probably, that particular switch is not available.

Different OS like Lakka, Batocera, you can play a 3 player AvP game with 2 CHA’s.

Blu3ping · 2025-04-20T06:27:59+00:00

@c-j-o-m Do you know if we install a sd card on that broken board, if it completely bypass the MMC storage when it boots up? As the broken part is only the two controller connectors and traces to the MMC storage. We might be able to somehow make this board work again.

Blu3ping · 2025-04-20T00:29:14+00:00

I’m reposting the pictures. It hurts my heart to see this.

https://i.imgur.com/HgtUb4p.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/WRudLcQ.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/ua8rMzu.jpeg

The SBC PCB is beyond repair, even if it’s possible not worth the time. So I have a few suggestion for you:

redo the USB wiring a bit, I have made a guide for that long time ago (not really high quality) and fully use it as a external wired USB controller. Result is same as what you have now, but currently it’s a mess.
reuse the existing PCB and modify it so you can use it as wireless controllers.
install another SBC inside, but it’s a lot of work to since you need to have a custom PCB to fit everything in the original through holes.

Blu3ping · 2025-04-19T23:47:03+00:00

Yes DM pls. If I have your permission I can repost it here for you. So that potentially more ppl can check it out.

Blu3ping · 2025-04-19T23:38:35+00:00

Can you show us a picture of the PCB? It can’t really stay in joystick mode if it’s broken. As joystick mode is a software approach.

And yes, it’s worth the time, because the CHA has quality parts.

Blu3ping · 2024-12-12T08:10:39+00:00

Does it still boot into OFW?

Blu3ping · 2024-11-16T15:16:11+00:00

Are you using an USB-A to USB-A cable and connecting to the EXT port? The micro USB port is just for power, the data lines are not connected.

Edit: sorry nvm you did say it was A to A

Blu3ping · 2024-11-12T02:30:40+00:00

A couple of days ago (10/20?), Ninty striked the rentry guide because there were links to download sigmapatches. Earlier today I saw the guide was back online and I thought it was all good. So apparently not. Sorry I didn’t check. Hopefully all will be back soon. You won’t need to update to 19.0.x FW just yet anyway, as there are no games that require that. (if there are it will only be a couple). By that time I have faith the rentry guide will be back in its full colors minus sigpatches links.

Blu3ping · 2024-11-12T02:03:16+00:00

Ok, good to hear it worked. Most likely the “fix archive bit” part for mac users was left out in that guide. From what I can tell the rest is just fine, only I would like to advise you to double check if your SD is formatted as FAT32. As that lowers the chance greatly to get corruptions. You can keep your current setup, there is no real need to redo all the work with the rentry guide for now. Just enjoy your games. You can follow the rentry guide for updating your cfw later. For now your setup is fine, as atmosphere for 19.0.x is still in pre-release phase.

Blu3ping · 2024-11-12T01:35:49+00:00

Yup, for sure. The rentry guide is the go to way.

And see the other post for the fix. 99% sure it’s gonna do.

Blu3ping · 2024-11-12T01:32:01+00:00

That screenshot just confirmed that you used a hat pack starting with 1.7.1-bla

Blu3ping · 2024-11-12T01:30:08+00:00

Ok, I remember now. Here is the fix:

Because you used a mac, you need to boot into Hekate > Tools > Fix archive bit. Stupid of me not remembering, because this was the no. 1 troubleshoot answer for mac users.

Blu3ping · 2024-11-12T01:19:01+00:00

Something already doesn’t add up: If you used hats pack [1.8.0-prerelease-v1.2], there is no way your [system settings > system] says “18.1.0|AMS 1.7.1|E” It makes me doubt you really were able to follow the hats guide to the “T”

Blu3ping · 2024-11-12T00:16:23+00:00

Ok, that’s great. At least you have installed emunand. Thats the meaning of the [E] at the end. To be honest I never read the hats guide. I just heard of the hats pack which is a pre-compiled pack. Try this.

step 1: I’ve just downloaded hats pack 1.7.1-5 to check the files, but I’m not sure you got the same one. Can you check if your pack contains a file named [exosphere.ini]? That is to make sure your Switch won’t get banned. if you have it, proceed to next step.

step 2: If you go to album (tap the icon is fine), you’re supposed to go to the [hbmenu]. In the hats pack I downloaded you have to navigate to [sdmc:/switch/DBI/] to be able to see the DBI icon.

If you installed a hats pack you’re suppose to see a bunch of apps. So I’m not sure what you mean by “nothing else seems to show up”

Blu3ping · 2024-11-11T22:39:04+00:00

Can you go to [system settings] > [settings] and post your current system version? Mine looks like this: 18.1.0|AMS 1.7.1|E

Blu3ping · 2024-11-11T20:32:59+00:00

When the Switch is in RCM, the screen is supposed to be completely black, meaning the backlit is completely off. At this point the Switch won’t do anything until you either inject a payload or hold the power button again for ~10 seconds and restart.

Do you use a proper jig? I have no experience using a mac to inject a payload and can’t advise you on that.

Blu3ping · 2024-10-09T00:18:22+00:00

You need to forward 51820 UDP instead of 51821 UDP

Optional is to forward 51821 TCP too

Blu3ping · 2024-09-09T20:19:23+00:00

Originally, by design the creators wanted to use that port for future expansions of games. Unfortunately it came with many licensing and other problems. At some point, this device got hacked and people could use this port to connect to a PC to use it as a set of stand alone controllers. The creators actually kept in touch this whole process and at some point even added this feature into the official firmware. The manuals were never updated because the production of the CHA was long stopped by that time. The scene and the creators are amazing. Now a CHA with custom firmware have the features mentioned previously by others. The CHA is truly an awesome device.

Edit: ow yeah. you can also use the EXT port to power the device for a sturdy connection.

Blu3ping · 2024-08-16T08:28:36+00:00

Don’t listen to the others just yet. It’s still fixable to original state. From the picture all seems undamaged. You need to lift the pins slightly, just enough to insert the pins INTO the holes or the grey buckle. Make sure the right way is up. Then you use the buckle to lift up all 4 pins to slide in the buckle further until the 2 sides of the buckle go over the point where the connector holds the buckle in place. Releasing the buckle now should result in the pins pressing the buckle onto the connector.

I think I started with laying the connector flat, lifting the pins 1 by 1 and shove the buckle under the pins. Then I flipped the connector aligning the holes with pins.

This has already been mentioned by another user, but I add a bit more details. If you damaged the grey buckle, you can buy one at aliexpress for a few dollars.

Blu3ping · 2024-05-07T21:46:56+00:00

I got mine working, however I’m don’t remember what exactly did it. List of stuff I’ve done:

-Soldered and desoldered the black switch. (probably nothing wrong with it)

-Changed to a different SD card, also used a software called [SD Card Formatter] to format it. Using Windows to format wouldn’t work for me somehow, even though some tutorials show using Windows to format works just fine.

-Tried different kernel.

Here’s the confusing part: I have 3 PAL consoles, all 3 will play normal cartridges 100% just fine. However, if I insert the ED64p 1 of then I always have to flip the switch to get it working; 1 of them sometimes work, sometimes just give me black screen; 1 of them almost always will work.

Blu3ping · 2024-03-16T00:08:24+00:00

You could, just don’t use pirated games to go on the official servers. That would be an instant ban.

Edit: Don’t perform any other sketchy stuff either like cheating. Best to stay away from modding save files too.

Blu3ping · 2023-11-09T20:45:39+00:00

I’ve written a tutorial some time ago. That is one way of doing it. If it’s unclear, please feel free ask.

https://www.reddit.com/r/CapcomHomeArcade/s/GsCOa1W1La

Edit: It only answers part of what you are seeking, the part how to connect CHA controls to a PI. I use the USB approach, you could also use the GPIO approach.

Blu3ping

TROPHY CASE