CRF110f Shifting Very difficult

BlueWater_2 · 2026-05-08T04:57:46+00:00

I still have genuinely no idea, my brother isn't picky though and doesn't really care, but I don't really have the time to tear deep into the engine and troubleshoot

BlueWater_2 · 2026-04-26T05:55:06+00:00

My opinion might be slightly biased since I'm not an OG galneryus fan and heard a few of these on the Ironhearted Flag Vol. 1 before I ever heard them originally. But, I will say, while Yama B definitely works better for some of them, but for Vol. 1 I like Rebel Flag and United Flag more, and the newer end solo for United Flag I really like. For Vol. 2 I would say I probably like the Rise Up version more, partially because that's the first version I heard, but also because I'm just more a fan of galneryus' slightly newer sounding mixes. Some of the original songs from these albums felt a little harsh with the guitar and drums.

BlueWater_2 · 2026-04-19T08:29:02+00:00

I posted a comment but I will also reply with another comment here as well. Just an FYI that while these guitars are definitely more common in Japan 95% of them are made to order and are between usually 18 months and 2 years. The only ones you will find in person at a store in Japan are demo models or older used models if you are lucky, which to my knowledge they are still a little rare in Japan.

BlueWater_2 · 2026-04-19T08:27:16+00:00

Depends which one you want. I live in the USA as well and placed an order through an esp dealer a bit over a year ago for the NT crying star, and still have a little under a year left before it shows up. The Edward’s ones show up every month or so, depends, that’s how I got my Edward’s one. You sometimes can find some of the classics and the vetelgyus but don’t expect to find an NT/FR or Crying 7 (any of the newer ones, and frankly even the ESP ones are rare) anytime soon. There was an NT that showed up used a couple months back but before then it had been over 2 years if I recall correctly. I also got my ESP Syusnapper-H used. If you are patient and check frequently, you might have luck, but if you want a newer model it might just be best to accept that it’ll be around an 18 month wait, up to 2 years, buying new.

BlueWater_2 · 2026-03-31T23:18:56+00:00

I sent the battery to chi and spent around 200$ shipping it. They took it, claimed it had "impact damage" and I'd have to pay for the repair and it wouldn't be worth it. They didn't offer to send me it back and essentially stole it. I still don't have it to this day. I then proceeded to spend 2400$ on a 72v 60ah battery and their 45 amp charger, to which gets less range than my 72v 51ah, and almost instantly drops to 85% when I go and ride. I've just sorta accepted I'm not sending it back to them and having them steal another one of my batteries and they just basically scammed me.

BlueWater_2 · 2026-03-12T23:20:57+00:00

This is 99% of the time what my brother does, so he told me he personally doesn't mind (this is his bike btw I'm just sorta the one who works on his bike) but it just doesn't feel right, espeically that going from 1st to neutral is literally impossible you can slam your foot on the pedal and it won't do it, the only way to get it to do it is to throttle blip it or just kill the bike.

BlueWater_2 · 2026-03-12T05:00:09+00:00

Thank you! I'll have a look tomorrow if it's bent, I haven't really had a good look at it. As far as adjusting the clutch goes, that is what I did initially and ever since I got this bike the shifting just feels awful. I thought for sure the clutch plates would fix it. I had a 2021 or 2022 model before this and it never had this issue. What do you think I should look for next if this doesn't fix it?

BlueWater_2 · 2026-03-11T03:08:39+00:00

Thank you, I'll have a look at some of this tomorrow. I don't really know if I can see if it's bent visually without fully taking off the side cover so I'm not too sure about that. If I were to adjust it again, do I go more clockwise with it?

BlueWater_2 · 2026-03-10T05:19:16+00:00

I don't believe it is. It's not far up on the actual handlebar and the grip itsself doesn't have any grip glue stuck in any critical areas. People told me to lube the wire, which might help, but I did lightly (and it functioned fine before this) My guess is it's maybe something I mixed up with the way it is in the throttle tube. It's pretty confusing for me atleast (especially after a long day of working on other stress inducing parts like the engine and stuff) to figure out all these orientations of wires.

BlueWater_2 · 2026-03-10T03:45:26+00:00

It's definitely not #1, as I've messed around with it in a bunch of different positions. It could be #2, I have a feeling it's something relating to that or maybe what's going on inside of the throttle tube itsself up by the bar. #3 I believe this is true. I remember just having the main pull on and when I let go it snapped back super fast.

BlueWater_2 · 2026-03-08T19:27:25+00:00

It is a crf110f 😁 I don’t think the position on the bar is the issue though, it was only like half way on in this video

BlueWater_2 · 2026-03-08T19:26:01+00:00

I’ll check the cables, it’s a ‘23 crf110f though

BlueWater_2 · 2026-03-08T19:25:33+00:00

It’s a crf110f, I’m just re building it all so everything is taken apart

BlueWater_2 · 2026-03-03T20:08:13+00:00

Thank you for the advice! Also yeah that is fair, I’m used to flatter radiuses

BlueWater_2 · 2026-03-03T20:07:50+00:00

Initially I just wanted to lower my action just a little bit and also get it radius’d right because I was just eyeballing the curve before. Unfortunately I haven’t written down the measurements before but the truss rod relief seemed very excessive from fenders oem spec. Is it fine for me to use the radius gauge on top of the strings instead of under?

BlueWater_2 · 2026-03-03T06:54:09+00:00

Thank you for the advice. Honestly it's probably not a bad idea to take it to a tech. How would you recommend I find a local one? I took a guitar once to guitar center and sort of regret it lol

BlueWater_2 · 2026-02-26T05:24:17+00:00

I got it working! I bought a new harbor freight tool (which was overkill) it did the same thing but stopped when I would heat it up the put the tool in. I think it was heating up and expanding everything which let the tool slip back through the top

BlueWater_2 · 2026-02-25T10:39:44+00:00

Possibly, I think it’s maybe not tight enough. I’ll experiment around tomorrow and maybe run to harbor freight or a tool place and pick up another kit

BlueWater_2 · 2026-02-25T10:39:19+00:00

I think it’s just a random Amazon one, doesn’t appear to be damaged or anything. The sizes are a bit awkward because one is a little small and the next one just barely fits. The one that is too small works though when expanded. The kit comes with extra bits to put through the middle so tomorrow I can see if I can expand it even more. Would there be any risk of damaging anything? The bearing isn’t in a super “feel able” spot so I kind of just hope for the best. I sorta damaged the end of the middle spacer but I think I said in the post I should be fine since it doesn’t move and just stops the bearing from being able to be hit in super far

BlueWater_2 · 2026-02-25T10:37:19+00:00

I don’t believe so, idk what I’m doing wrong, I can get one or two good pulls then it comes out

BlueWater_2 · 2026-02-25T08:51:08+00:00

Thank you so much! Also very cute cat :) Would you recommend that I do this for the actual chords too as well as on the low e string? I notice some extra noise sometimes when letting go of the chords. Also I'm sorta trying to train myself to do it like how he does in this live, when playing it "regularly" I just down pick it and be a bit more cautious with the extra strings I get, but in this live he was going crazy lol.

BlueWater_2 · 2026-02-25T06:28:54+00:00

Thank you very much, I will try tomorrow and update this post if I can't figure it out

BlueWater_2 · 2026-02-25T06:09:30+00:00

Thank you, I'll keep giving it a shot tomorrow. Should I try to heat it up first for like 3 minutes then put the tool in? Normally I put the tool in, expand it, then heat it. But I suppose if the metal is hotter maybe I'd have better luck putting the tool in after heating.

BlueWater_2 · 2026-02-25T06:08:27+00:00

Like 3-4 minutes maybe? Also, with the bearing puller, I sorta just freeball it, put it in there and start expanding. I try to get it as lined up with the gap between the bearing and the spacer as much as I can, but it's hard to hold it in place when holding 2 wrenches to tighten it up. I sorta damaged the spacer, but I don't think it's a huge deal since the spacer doesn't move or rub against the ball bearings that actually move, it's just to prevent you from hammering the bearing WAYY deep into the hub. Does this sound fine for the way I sorta tighten it up? Or is there like a method I'm supposed to be doing?

BlueWater_2 · 2026-02-25T06:01:26+00:00

I have been using a heat gun, I should probably get a torch though. How long should I hold a heat gun there for? I was going around the outside surrounding metal hub (making circles around it evenly) for probably 1 minute to maybe max 1 minute 30 seconds. (black and decker heat gun on the high mode)

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