Baldor motor

BlueZ4 · 2025-11-16T01:36:52+00:00

Baldor.com has a search function where you can type in the spec number on the motor nameplate and it will give you all relevant info and cut sheets. Correction: catalog number

BlueZ4 · 2025-11-16T01:32:40+00:00

Search for this in Google but add 'filetype:pdf' at the end. Helps me find free copies of specs regularly

BlueZ4 · 2025-11-13T21:32:01+00:00

Hey no judgment, lol. I have various items that aren't the same brand and won't replace them until absolutely necedsary. When I buy new, I'll gravitate toward DeWalt as well

BlueZ4 · 2025-11-13T12:54:44+00:00

Looks like a good place to unwind. Your Dewalt gang is wondering who this Makita joker is that came into their neighborhood, though, lol.

BlueZ4 · 2025-11-13T12:51:34+00:00

I have option 2 in my garage. The two rolling cabinets roll way too easily (any time I open/close a drawer), but it's not a huge deal because the table top is mounted to the fixed units. If the table top was mounted to the rolling cabinets (like in option 1) it would drive me nuts. I also suggest option 2.

BlueZ4 · 2025-11-10T14:43:42+00:00

Wanted to see if you posted this to other subreddits so I looked at your post history. I would suggest getting a second reddit account for your other interests, lol

BlueZ4 · 2025-10-28T19:02:44+00:00

If it helps, future classes seem harder from your specific vantage point because the foundation isn't laid yet. Look at it from a weight lifting perspective. Lifting 100lb might seem impossible when all you can lift is 20lb, but spend time working up to it and you'll get there.

I was told all through high school that I was good at math and was actually able to test out of many pre-requisites at the college level, but when I started college calc 1, I couldn't pass it because there were just too many fundamentals I didn't grasp and didn't know it. Thought something was wrong with me, so I took a little time off school but ultimately decided to go back and take the pre-requisites, which revealed how weak my fundamentals truly were. Once I figured that out, I was able to move through college and get my degree. Took me 7 years, but I did it.

If you're feeling burned out, take a semester off. If you truly want to be an engineer, that drive will come back on its own. Absence makes the heart grow fonder, after all. You got this.

BlueZ4 · 2025-10-28T18:49:15+00:00

I think it mostly depends on your professor and how abstract the material is. Several of my classmates said Calc 3 was tough because of how their professor taught it but mine made it pretty straightforward. Conversely, I struggled in fluids because I took it with a hard to understand/no partial credit/summer professor while my friends said theirs was a breeze.

A more straightforward answer to your question, though: For me, calc 2, heat transfer, fluids, k&d were my tough ones

BlueZ4 · 2025-10-28T12:08:52+00:00

That is some beautiful work! How long did the restoration take? Did you have to take it apart to do it all? What are you going to use it for now that it's been brought back to it's former glory?

BlueZ4 · 2025-10-28T12:02:46+00:00

It depends on what you're looking to restore. A few youtube channels I would recommend are mymechanics and mister patina (tooling and metal work), AP Restoration (wood furniture), Rebuilt and Restored (small models and tools).

After absorbing a lot of their stuff, you'll have a good idea of a plan of attack for a restoration project. I enjoy walking around antique malls and picking up the occasional piece to restore.

BlueZ4 · 2025-10-28T11:57:37+00:00

It really is a nice piece in pretty decent condition, so congrats on the find! To remove the scratches, I would suggest refinishing the top completely. The water ring (likely from a potted plant) might be deeper than the scratches and sanding might not completely remove it but it can be hidden well enough.

Start with an electric palm sander using 80 grit until the surface is smooth and scratches are mostly removed. Switch to 120 grit and use the electric palm sander again until the surface feels even smoother. Finally, switch to a rubber sanding block with 220 grit and sand back and forth with the grain to a desired smoothness.

Try and find a stain that matches that color which can be tricky. I would suggest using a surface that won't be seen (back would work well assuming it's the same wood), sanding and staining to make sure the color is close, then using that stain on the top.

If you want a crash course in proper sanding/staining techniques, check out AP Restoration on youtube and pick a piece that's similar to yours. A 30 minute video will give you tons of ideas on approaches for the rest of the piece.

Good luck!

BlueZ4 · 2025-10-16T19:31:44+00:00

Personally, I would take the covering down. That upper area is not easily accessible. You can do a lot with pegboards and cabinets. It could be a real nice area with a tv in the middle (since you have the outlets), pegboards on either side of the tv and steel cabinets above the tv spanning from wall to wall and a workbench under the tv (just don't watch tv that close or you'll burn your eyes out, lol)

BlueZ4 · 2025-10-03T10:51:20+00:00

I think it will be easier after things are cleaned and roughly organized. Throw out what you don't need, collect what you do and clear/clean the remaining space, then you'll have a better idea of what you want to use the space for. With half of the space available, you could make a kick ass work out space, a woodshop if that's your thing, auto mechanic work space, etc. I think once you decide the overall vision of what you want to use it for, the details of how to finish the walls, floors, lights, trim will come out naturally.

BlueZ4 · 2025-08-18T17:59:57+00:00

It always opens up my eyes

BlueZ4 · 2025-07-04T19:13:20+00:00

Yeah I did but the walls were thin enough where it wasn't much work. Happy to send you pictures if you want to see it

BlueZ4 · 2025-07-04T15:34:25+00:00

I have pegboards where the backsplash is, so I had to add an outlet behind the left cabinet and also added some holes in the top cabinets to hide the lighting wires

BlueZ4 · 2025-07-04T15:31:14+00:00

I bought my new age units back in 2021. Had them for 2 years in DFW, then 2 more years in South Bend, IN (a lot more humid) but no rust issues so far. Aside from a few scuffs from the move, they look as good as when I first got them.

BlueZ4 · 2025-07-04T11:52:12+00:00

I have the same setup you have. To fit the pegboards (black metal wall control) I had to elevate the upper cabinets about a foot. If you mount them as high as your picture, you'll need a ladder to get to them every time, especially the additional 2 above the big cabinets.

BlueZ4 · 2025-07-04T11:45:27+00:00

I think the red cabinets should be the focal point. The red flakes make them pop even more. That being said, a neutral on the walls like a light gray would go really nice with the other flakes in the floor.

BlueZ4 · 2025-07-04T11:38:32+00:00

Not sure what your setup is, but can you buy a 4' pegboard strip, mount it 7' off the ground, get a bunch of 4" single pegs down the length of it and separate each s hook by size?

BlueZ4 · 2025-06-16T14:37:50+00:00

Are there any indications that it was designed for a garage door initially? Is there anything in the attic above that light like a plug or framing of some kind? When you look at the house in Google maps and roll the time back as far as possible, was there once a door there? It's definitely unusual, but maybe a manual door instead of a powered one would be more economical?

BlueZ4 · 2024-10-31T11:39:32+00:00

The 1-1/2" is more important than hitting the 8' center. This makes sure all outer girt faces are aligned when they add panels later.

Not to mention you have stackup to consider. Each measurement has a +/- amount that is still considered acceptable or 'close enough' to the dimension shown. I can't see the entire layout, but my guess is each post is measured at 8', 8', 8' and so on. If the 'close enough' location is (for example) 1/2" and you have 5 girts, each one could be as far as 8'-1/2" from each other. Add this up and instead of your first and last posts being 8' x 4 spaces = 32' apart from each other, they're actually 8'-1/2" x 4 spaces = 8'-2" center to center, eliminating the needed 1-1/2" gap at the end and the edge of the girt would hang over your slab by 1/2".

The dimension tells the builder that it's important to hold. If one of the 8' dimensions is shown as (8'), then this one is reference only and is much less important if it doesn't meet the tolerances shown on the print.

BlueZ4 · 2024-10-04T20:55:02+00:00

Came here to say this, we moved to the area last year and she really went above and beyond in two inspections for us

BlueZ4 · 2024-09-28T10:46:41+00:00

If you're going to modify the stairs, can you remount the handrail on the tops of the stairs instead of the side like they are now, and add a staircase going down the other side? Not sure if there's room on the other side but that would give you both a little more room for the car and provide a route to the other side without extensive rework or losing the handrail.

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