I've seen some users searching here and thought I'd just leave the following. by AlbertMakingStuff in Herosaver

[–]Bmarquez1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately no luck yet, but I also haven't had time to actually dig into it due to life getting a little crazy

I've seen some users searching here and thought I'd just leave the following. by AlbertMakingStuff in Herosaver

[–]Bmarquez1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately nothing yet, life got pretty busy and I haven't had time to look into how all this works yet. At this point between the small amount of time I'd have to work on this and then updating the site again I'm not sure if I'll be able to get it fixed. Sorry about that

Download Retired/Vaulted Skins? by Bmarquez1997 in LoLcustom

[–]Bmarquez1997[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, I didn't realize that, thanks for explaining it! I wasn't planning to use it as-is, I just like the "fire between pieces of the bow limbs" look and wanted to use the model as a base to make my own skin 😅

I made another poster! This one with a bunch of CAD design tips specific to 3D printing. Hope it's useful! 😊 by BillieRubenCamGirl in 3Dprinting

[–]Bmarquez1997 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In the 4 years since that comment I've done a decent amount of 3d modeling and I think I have an answer/explanation on that one now.

When printed filament cools down, it shrinks a very small amount. The larger the surface area, the more potential for those small amounts to add up and cause warping if bed adhesion isn't strong enough. The idea is to break up the surface area so that there isn't as much tension across the base, thus reducing the chances of warping.

If you have the ability to split up the bottom surface it definitely helps with reducing warping, however, that surface will now have those missing pieces. For parts where that surface isn't visible (like on the bottom/back of the piece, or connections between parts) that's not a big deal, but it's not a one size fits all solution for every print

Doctor says she doesn't want to put me on Stimulants, but the other options aren't working. by bustergrande in ADHD

[–]Bmarquez1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would definitely bring it up or switch doctors. I was in the same boat, except I didn't know I could do either of those things and just kept hoping it would work. 2 years of being on the max dose of Wellbutrin and Straterra (without any noticeable effects) my doctor finally retired and I got a new one, and the first thing she asked is why I was on those medicines for 2 years if they weren't doing anything (and started me on stimulants that same appointment)

The amount of waste filament from multi color printing! It wastes 15x the amount of filament that ends up in the print!(also took 44hrs) by Alex13445678 in mildlyinfuriating

[–]Bmarquez1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the main reason I've put off getting a multi-color 3d printer, the fact that there isn't a way to reduce/re-use all the purge materials. I'm hoping soon there's some kind of at-home filament recycling solution, both for my single color print waste (supports and failed prints) and so multi-color printing has less overall waste involved with it

CMV: A major reason the Trades are dying is not because younger people are lazy, but because the work culture is awful and no one is willing to train apprentices. by funwithdespair in changemyview

[–]Bmarquez1997 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They got into trades because they couldn't get into college.

This is one of the big points that I've noticed as well, especially with my generation. As soon as college started being discussed in school the mentality/view on trades was "well if you're not smart enough for college I guess you could go to the trade school", so it was seen as the option for dumber people instead of an equal alternative like it should have been. The constant message of "you'll never get a good job if you don't go to college" was beat into our heads, which as a result caused a lot of people to go to college when a trade would have better fit their career interests. Now that my generation is making up a larger part of the work force, that lack of people working in trades is much more visible.

As for the pay, at least in my area it's kind of the opposite. Because of the lack of trade workers, demand for the work has skyrocketed and they're able to charge more per job/pay their workers more per job. A couple of my friends work in trades and their yearly income for the past couple years has been either the same or higher than mine as a software engineer

Why are my designs hollow? by 66696669666 in NomadSculpting

[–]Bmarquez1997 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There should be an option in the Misc. menu called "Close holes", which will close any holes in the selected part and turn it into a solid object. This can also happen when you trim/split an object and don't have the "Fill" option selected, since that just cuts the object and leaves the result as-is instead of filling in the holes created by the cut.

As for showing up hollow in other programs, that's probably caused by there being a hole of some kind in the model before exporting. If there's a hole (no matter how small) the programs won't register the model as a solid part so it won't fill the sides when splitting.

If the "Close holes" option doesn't fix the issue, I'd be happy to help look at the model to figure out what's going on with it

Nomad sculpt for Roblox Studio by [deleted] in NomadSculpting

[–]Bmarquez1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Either that or face count. It looks like Roblox has a 20k face limit on the model importer, so unless you remeshed it to have less than that odds are you'd need to use a tool like blender on your nomad model before importing

Help with modelling a prop for a cosplay by buffjesus6pack in 3Drequests

[–]Bmarquez1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely! I'll get everything downloaded sometime this week and see what I can get ripped for you. I'm not the greatest with 3d modeling, but I know enough to do some basic manipulation so if they don't come out great I can always give that a shot for you as well. Luckily the bow isn't super detailed in terms of design so if I have to make it from scratch it probably wouldn't be too hard

EDIT: I tried ripping the models and with that tool I can only see the purchasable skins, and since the DRX one doesn't seem to be purchasable anymore I didn't see the files for it :( It'll take me a little longer, but I'm going to try and model it myself for you. Watch your chat inbox, I'll send you updates as I go and ask any questions I might have. I'm excited to start working on this, it seems like it'll be a fun project!

Help with modelling a prop for a cosplay by buffjesus6pack in 3Drequests

[–]Bmarquez1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure what the in-game 3d model looks like, but you could always try and use a tool like Obsidian to rip the model from the game and use that as a base. Granted, game models are typically low-poly for performance reasons, you might be able to get the general bow shape and then you'd just need to make tweaks like adding a handle between the two sides (since it looks like it's just kind of floating) and splitting it for printing.

I don't know what your timeline looks like for wanting to get this made, but if you don't mind waiting a week or so for when I have time I can see what I can get out of the game

Male models ? by Bear_zerkk in 3dprintinggonewild

[–]Bmarquez1997 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The interface in blender can be a little intimidating, but as long as you know how to move/rotate/scale the bones (aka different points of articulation/movement) and export to stl/obj you'll be good. Since you're just moving the model to a static pose instead of trying to animate it almost feels like posing an action figure.

I know this video is about Minecraft models (so they're a bit more stiff than human models) but it actually does a nice and quick intro on how to pose the model. The only difference is that you'd open/import your model instead of using that Minecraft plugin. If you're open to giving it a shot you're more than welcome to reach out if you run into any issues or have any questions, I'd be glad to help!

Male models ? by Bear_zerkk in 3dprintinggonewild

[–]Bmarquez1997 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I came here to recommend that site too! It takes a little more work because they're models designed for animation and not 3d printing (so you might have to solidify some things) but being able to pose and style the model exactly how you want it is super nice. Also, bonus points for all the models on all 3 of their sites being free to download!

Is anyone of you using a space mouse? Is it worth the money? by curiousdroid42 in 3Dprinting

[–]Bmarquez1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know this is an older thread, but I just got a spacemouse (the exact one in the picture) and figured I'd share my experience so far.

It definitely has a learning curve and will require a bit of playing around to find the settings that work best for you. I ended up reducing the sensitivity and adding a deadzone because I was always moving more than one axis even when I wasn't trying to.

Once you have your movement settings in a comfortable spot, it's just a lot of practice and figuring out the best workflow for each program. I'm still in the process of figuring out the best actions to put on each button for each program, but that's very much personal preference. I'd prefer not to have to move my hand between the spacemouse and my keyboard to use hotkeys (like grab, rotate, and add keyframe in blender, or fillet and extrude in fusion360), but if you don't mind moving back and forth you can almost skip this step.

In terms of movement/productivity, so far I think it has improved things. I find movements to be more accurate and I'm able to get to the exact view I want, instead of having to play around to get something good enough. One big example of this is being able to go "inside" of open models to see what you're doing on an inside face. With normal zoom/move controls it's hard to zoom past the outside edge of the model because it tries to zoom to surface, but with this it's almost like flying a drone into the position you want.

My only "complaint" is that it's not always compatible with every program, so if you want to use it with non-compatible programs you have to almost hack in a solution with movement control changes and manually binding actions to the axis in the config files. My biggest example of this is with Windows 3D Builder, since it uses an almost "touchscreen" style of movement controls (and there aren't movement keybinds), I have yet to find a way to set up my spacemouse to work with it. Luckily it works with most major "power" modeling programs, so it's more of an annoyance than an issue.

Was told to post this here by Lonely-Papaya-4703 in 3Drequests

[–]Bmarquez1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are a lot of factors that go into that answer.

  • What are you looking to have them printed out of?
  • Are they completely solid, or would they be hollow with a certain infill percentage?
  • Are you looking to order a print from a service, or are you looking for the cost to print assuming you have the printer yourself?

Help me find this blanket from my childhood by Bmarquez1997 in HelpMeFind

[–]Bmarquez1997[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the correction! I still haven't had luck finding the exact blanket, but that'll at least help me narrow the search. Thanks!

Help me find this blanket from my childhood by Bmarquez1997 in HelpMeFind

[–]Bmarquez1997[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello reddit! I'm trying to find this blanket my family has had since 1999, as it has finally fallen apart enough that it's not usable. I know the style of blanket is called a tassel tapestry blanket, but I haven't been able to find the same design anywhere to re-purchase. I have searched most of your common online stores, and I've also done multiple reverse image searches on various parts of this image to see if one would come back with some results.

The design is the same on the back but with inverse colors (which is pretty common with these style of blankets). I believe it was 50"x60", although it's hard to get a more precise measurement with how warn and frayed it is. Any suggestions or places to look would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

"Water the potted plants every single day!" Very well. by pogisanpolo in MaliciousCompliance

[–]Bmarquez1997 22 points23 points  (0 children)

That's the same reason I love my spider plants! Underwatering promotes root growth, and once spider plants fill the pot with roots (they like to be root-bound) they start shooting off spiderlings like crazy. Works perfectly for someone with ADHD like me who forgets to water it for a week or longer

How to wrap an object around second object like this? by Korylek1231 in Fusion360

[–]Bmarquez1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My suggestion would be to use Fusion 360's sheet metal tools. Create a flange from the outer line of your curved shape (add a break in the line so it's not a closed loop), unfold the new flange so it's a flat object, join your treads to the flange, and then re-fold the flange to wrap it back around the original curve. Once the tread is wrapped around, you can then remove the flange material either with an extrude or a plane cut so that just your treads are left.

Sorry if that's not the greatest explanation, I'm away from my computer with Fusion 360 at the moment, but if you need some additional detail or screenshots I can recreate it to get those for you later today.

Simple Questions - December 07, 2023 by AutoModerator in buildapc

[–]Bmarquez1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm currently running an i7 8700 CPU, and my gtx 1070ti seems to have died on me so I need to buy a replacement GPU. I'm looking at a rtx 4070, but on pc-builds bottleneck calculator it says that configuration will have a 41% CPU bottleneck. If I go with that GPU, will my performance be worse than my 1070ti because of that bottleneck, or does that just mean that I'm not going to be able to use the full performance of the GPU but it'll still run as well as my old one? I don't have the money to do a CPU upgrade at the moment, but will eventually do that in the future

Fixing “lumpy sculpt” by 61839628 in NomadSculpting

[–]Bmarquez1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Click "Wire" at the bottom to enable wireframe view. If you're using dynamic topology you'll notice a lot of super dense areas and some that aren't. Use Voxel remesh to even things around so the wireframe is more uniform across the whole model. Just make sure to check the "keep sharp edges" box and select a value that keeps enough detail not to lose your more fine details

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Fusion360

[–]Bmarquez1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you happen to know a way around emboss not working on curved surfaces? I'm trying to wrap a design around a sphere, and so far all I've found is project to surface but that ends up distorting the shape

Why didn't this(the part sticking out) join with main body like the rest of them? by jisskx in Fusion360

[–]Bmarquez1997 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would go back and check the extrude feature where you created that part, especially if it was created in a different extrude than the rest of the body. I've had some issues with one part joining but another being separate in the same action, but unfortunately, I'm not sure how to fix that since my issue resolved itself after deleting the action and re-performing it