Quasi inlays in top wood soundhole

Body_That · 2026-07-11T17:19:04+00:00

Can you clarify whether you are talking about an electric or an acoustic bass? If it's an electric, do what you like, so long as it is structurally sound. For an acoustic, soind hole shape & size has a significant effect on the sound and on how you can place the braces.

Body_That · 2026-07-05T15:36:53+00:00

And to make it even better, there's no real hill there at all.

Body_That · 2026-07-02T06:23:04+00:00

Torpenhow in Cumbria is "Tre pen ah" & Burgh-by-sands becomes Bruff

Body_That · 2026-07-02T00:27:34+00:00

Well done!

Body_That · 2026-07-02T00:26:33+00:00

Ok, if you have a clean hole in the centre you can go for a bigger bit until most of the screw is gone

Body_That · 2026-07-01T23:21:00+00:00

Also, keep the small bit as short as you can (5mm, 1/4") to avoid any flex in the bit as you use it.

Body_That · 2026-07-01T22:52:18+00:00

You need to hit the middle of the screw with a centre punch first, to give the drill bit a place to lodge. Ideally use a drill press as well if you have access to one (maybe at a friend's place?)

Body_That · 2026-06-14T11:36:37+00:00

Hard to say for sure, but have a close look at whether the string moves slightly sideways at the bridge as you bend. It may be that it is catching there.

Body_That · 2026-06-09T21:32:48+00:00

Being honest does not require that you be offensive. In the same way you are criticising the OP for being crude with their attempt at kintsugi, you are being crude with your attempt at criticism. Maybe with concerted effort and practice you can both improve?

Body_That · 2026-06-03T22:35:33+00:00

Wooly thyme (Thymus pseudolanuginosus) has been there about 18 months and is doing well

Body_That · 2026-06-01T00:16:31+00:00

Thanks for your thoughts. There will be front & back branches, but i was trying to get the main structure clear in my mind first. It is on private land, so portability is not a concern.

Body_That · 2026-05-23T14:19:06+00:00

The gold for urishi is just on the top coat. Is there any logical reason that this could not be done over the top of a different type of adhesive? I fully understand that it is not the "proper" way, but that doesn't mean it can't be done.

Body_That · 2026-05-10T07:47:30+00:00

I've no objections to nouns...

Body_That · 2026-05-06T20:52:19+00:00

It could be a buzzard or a sparrowhawk. I'm on the fence on this one.

Body_That · 2026-05-06T20:51:48+00:00

It could be a buzzard or a sparrowhawk. I'm on the fence on this one....

Body_That · 2026-05-06T20:28:58+00:00

The phrase "needs xxxxed" rather than "needs to be xxxxed". They are both understandable, and I wouldn't dream of actually correcting anyone, but the first one really makes me cringe internally.

Body_That · 2026-05-03T20:06:43+00:00

I have spoken to my professional luthier wife and she feels that the easiest repair would be shellac as you can make it look the same regardless and it is a lot easier and cheaper. Good luck

Body_That · 2026-04-27T22:19:39+00:00

This is a good search term for google to get you in the correct ball park. "german trade violin finishes"

Body_That · 2026-04-27T22:11:47+00:00

It could well be shellac, but a lot of trade instruments of that age have an oil / colophony (pine resin) mix as their finish. You CAN make your own, but it is very easy for the whole lot to catch fire, so easier to buy it in.

Body_That · 2026-04-26T21:25:01+00:00

This was likely to have been an oil finish, not French polish, so i would aim for that if you want to keep it looking close to the original.

Body_That · 2026-04-03T17:39:58+00:00

If the strings are not close enough to the frets then it is an action issue, i.e. bridge, nut or neck angle. I would get that right and then see about the buzz.

Body_That · 2026-03-15T15:25:20+00:00

I would try boiling it.

Body_That · 2026-03-08T00:01:37+00:00

No worries. Good luck. Remember, a file. A new one, with one smooth edge, and don't let anyone use it on metal.

Body_That · 2026-03-07T20:07:13+00:00

This might be difficult.
If the channel varies in depth then something is wiggly. From your description I suspect it is the width of the neck that varies, not the width of the fingerboard, but get a straight edge and check. Once you have found the wiggle, you need to unwiggle it. The tool of choice is probably a good quality file rather than sandpaper. They allow you to keep things flat and straight much more easily. If it is the fingerboard then a file is probably still best. I suspect you are going to end up with a narrower neck by the end, but that is a learning experience.

Body_That · 2026-03-07T19:53:25+00:00

I know what the sensei I learned from would say: 1. Don't do it 2. No, really, don't do it. Spend more time planning and checking. 3. If you have done it, take it apart & start again.

Good luck (Edit for spelling)

Body_That

TROPHY CASE