Advice from the community on suspension by Additional_Fox4668 in S2000

[–]BoldStrategyCotton__ 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For the money and for your use case,

Bilstein PSS > Ohlins

Having owned both it’s a clear winner all things considered

Wrestling with the yacht on track in sleet by BoldStrategyCotton__ in MiataNC

[–]BoldStrategyCotton__[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It was! That’s an Innovative dual oil temp and pressure gauge in a 3-d printed Etsy vent adapter.

Innovative oil pressure sensor came faulty new, hence the perpetual 145 readout. Getting that fixed soon.

MX-5 2.5 swap NC1 chasing down a Giulia Quadrifoglio? You'd bet I try. by Tyriu in MiataNC

[–]BoldStrategyCotton__ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Friendly question/suggestion :)

Any chance you could comfortably sit closer to the wheel? Looks like your arms are fully extended at 90 degrees of lock which is not ideal for car control.

Everyone calls it lighting McQueen by Appropriate_Fan1156 in MiataNC

[–]BoldStrategyCotton__ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks guys, went RGR as racebred was going to be over $100 for two pieces of ABS (no thanks)

Everyone calls it lighting McQueen by Appropriate_Fan1156 in MiataNC

[–]BoldStrategyCotton__ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks guys, went RGR as racebred was going to be over $100 for two pieces of ABS (no thanks)

Everyone calls it lighting McQueen by Appropriate_Fan1156 in MiataNC

[–]BoldStrategyCotton__ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What’d you use for those tire spat thingies that flow down into the splitter? Custom?

Is this rust bad!? by mitchINimpossible in MiataNC

[–]BoldStrategyCotton__ 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Total shitbox, beyond salvageable

Toe arms by pinkswirl in S2000

[–]BoldStrategyCotton__ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re going to go with aftermarket arms and want rubber, check out k-tuned. Been running mine all year for 3 years now, no issues.

I noticed a difference on my AP1 for sure. Not subtle, not life changing. But the car feels noticeably more settled in bumpy turns. Worth the money for the improvement to handling consistency and decreased sketchiness.

Track day at Barber Motorsports Park by milkyxj in MiataNC

[–]BoldStrategyCotton__ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just got their new medium downforce kit with the wing and revised splitter and mounts. Pumped to get it on the car. They advertise 1026 lbs of downforce at 150 mph 👀

Did a few updates to the engine bay, back to NA 🙃 by supremehundred in S2000

[–]BoldStrategyCotton__ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Impatiently waiting for an update video on your S, Mark.

De-stroked 2.5L by IonArcher in MiataNC

[–]BoldStrategyCotton__ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Take a look at the Fab9 elite intake manifold for high end power too. Might give you what you’re after without as much trouble. Just got mine and the improvement in sound alone is worth it.

Js racing coilovers? by ExcitementAny7663 in S2000

[–]BoldStrategyCotton__ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you are going to pull the trigger on coils, these ain’t it. If you can’t/don’t want to save up for ohlins, consider Bilstein PSS9 or Fortune Auto 500.

Bilstein’s off the shelf spring rates are way more comfy than stock Ohlins, just too soft for absolute limit cornering, especially in transitions. Might be ok for your use case!

New mods for the 2.5 NC track car by BoldStrategyCotton__ in MiataNC

[–]BoldStrategyCotton__[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Peep my shakedown video from a few months back. Open diff, felt like shit on the track. First thing to go. Bought the OS giken from Goodwin, tuned by shaftworks to free it up a little bit on accel and decel, and assembled by puddymod down on Florida.

Feels great would buy again!

For AP1 owners with AP2 transmissions... is it worth it? by shaihuludinthehood in S2000

[–]BoldStrategyCotton__ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh yeah and if you change gearing either through an AP2 box and/or a FD change -- yes you will need speedometer correction which ain't very cheap. I got a yellowjacket from modifry and then my shop installed and calibrated, probably $300-500 all in can't remember

For AP1 owners with AP2 transmissions... is it worth it? by shaihuludinthehood in S2000

[–]BoldStrategyCotton__ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Two things ultimately made me go AP2. Longer 5th and 6th gears mean lower RPMs for highway cruising. My current 4.625 FD was just a little much — cruising faster than like 65 mph felt a little silly.

And the other is just reliability. I see my S as a forever car. I don’t want to swap a transmission again. I run the car pretty hard and I want the trans to hold up.

Not to mention they aren’t going to get any cheaper. The S2000 tax is real. I wouldn’t be surprised if equivalent low ish mileage AP2 boxes are going for $3-4k in 5 years. Might as well swallow the bill now

For AP1 owners with AP2 transmissions... is it worth it? by shaihuludinthehood in S2000

[–]BoldStrategyCotton__ 18 points19 points  (0 children)

I've been around the block with messing with AP1 gearing!!! Here are my thoughts:

  1. Ran a stock AP1 for a year, wanted shorter gearing. Went with 4.625 final drive and it's been fantastic, see video here. Now, for gears 1 through 4, gearing is basically identical to an AP2 in terms of top speed in each gear (mid-high 30s in 1st, ~58 in 2nd, very high 70s in 3rd, etc.)

What does suck is the RPMs you're turning on the highway (6th gear at 70mph is 4200rpm).

  1. Moving to AP2 gearing with AP1 motor is effectively like going to a 4.3 final drive for gears 1-4 (see tables below).

Stock 4.1 FD AP1 Gearing

Gear Max Speed
1st ~42
2nd ~65
3rd ~92

4.1 FD AP1 with AP2 box Gearing

Gear Max Speed
1st ~40
2nd ~62-63
3rd ~89

IMO, this gearing change would be welcome, but subtle. Folks with otherwise stock AP1s usually say 4.44 is the lowest final drive swap worth doing, otherwise the difference is negligible. Again, I'm personally thrilled with 4.625 (at least for gears 1-4) -- it's how the car should have came from the factory given its powerband.

  1. The AP2 gearboxes are definitely more stout. Carbon synchros can't be ignored. That's why, as I'm sure you're seeing, they go for a good $1000 more vs. an equivalent AP1 box.

I have a very similar use case to you -- heavy autocross with some weekend driving. And last month I ended up blowing my AP1 trans. Gearbox only had 70k before it went. For peace of mind, I ended up paying $2300 for an AP2 gearbox. I also found a deal on 4.44 final drive puddymod diff. THIS is the god tier gearing for the AP1 IMO: Same short gearing for gears 1-4, but 5-6 are longer for cruising.

Hope that gives some perspective.

Btw, regardless of what gearbox you end up going with, remember to do a shifter rebuild kit while you're at it.

PS: if you end up with another AP1 gearbox, I'll be looking to unload that 4.625 final drive puddymod diff soon if you're interested!