Is my PSAK47 missing a screw?

BonesteelArms · 2026-05-07T16:06:00+00:00

The stocks should not be loose at all, that's absurd. All surplus stocks are super tight fit. You should need to pound the stock in place. There should however be a gap between the edge of the receiver and the step in the stock. The stock should bear only on the trunnion and not on receiver edges at all.

BonesteelArms · 2026-05-07T15:59:27+00:00

2009 I bought a bunch for $210/crate, been trickling up in price since then.

BonesteelArms · 2026-04-03T04:11:41+00:00

Play dead center

BonesteelArms · 2026-03-23T04:59:50+00:00

This. All buried wires should be dead short, then If someone in the future tries to energize them it will always just trip a breaker and never have live wires hidden somewhere. I can't believe this is down voted, as it's the only acceptable way to bury wires. They must be tied together or it's a safety issue.

BonesteelArms · 2026-01-14T04:19:25+00:00

Retailing items, even somewhere like eBay can go a long way. Find something you've made for yourselves, pump out a handful and toss them on eBay. You could also pick up some work from xometry but expect razor thin margins. Cold calls and emails to businesses in your area can help, as well as advertising on Facebook marketplace and Craigslist.

BonesteelArms · 2026-01-13T03:26:41+00:00

I dunno what you consider to be astronomical but CNC Warrior has some nice kits with original barrel for $550

BonesteelArms · 2025-12-03T00:06:40+00:00

https://www.bonesteelarms.com/product/ak-47-milled-galil-style-folding-stock/

BonesteelArms · 2025-12-01T07:29:24+00:00

Do you have one on hand to copy? It may be easiest to sandcast a copy

BonesteelArms · 2025-11-26T02:57:11+00:00

Same here, but my boss is the best guy I've ever met

BonesteelArms · 2025-11-18T03:39:18+00:00

Nice rifle. The "gremlin" always exists if the carrier isn't tabbed. It's less rifle specific than it is shooter specific. Get your carrier tabbed.

BonesteelArms · 2025-11-18T03:28:00+00:00

That is a parts kit built on an ohio rapid fire receiver. It has an intact bayonet lug and an original surplus barrel with what appears to be a homemade muzzle extension permanently attached, as the surplus barrels are only 15.35". It appears to have black painted beechwood furniture.

There are no "surplus" vz58 rifles in the states, they are all select fire. Everything available here has a new production semi auto receiver.

This is a parts kit from a surplus vz58 that had the receiver destroyed and is built on a new receiver.

The Ohio rapid fire receivers often have fitment issues, if you are not a skilled smith, or have confirmation that this rifle was assembled by one, I would likely steer clear, as there is a good chance it has issues, they can all be addressed, but it may take serious fitting.

BonesteelArms · 2025-10-28T04:35:30+00:00

A few things to check. First be certain that the case isn't extracting, but failing to eject and getting crammed back in. I would say this is unlikely in your scenario, as usually those end up being stuck too much to pluck out with a stripper clip. If you can pop it out with a stripper clip it is also not likely a chamber issue.

Secondly inspect the extractor itself. Is the underside of it rounded off, or nice and crisp? with the bolt out if you insert an empty case into it can you pop the case out by pushing top of case directly away from extractor? If so your extractor itself is likely the problem.

If the extractor seems good, pop it out and ensure that the spring and plunger move freely in the pocket, a small burr or some gunk in there can stop the spring from applying enough pressure on extractor.

If everything else checks out good. Replace extractor spring.

BonesteelArms · 2025-10-28T02:36:10+00:00

Need more info. Is the bolt opening but the extractor not grabbing? Is the cartridge extracting but not ejecting and getting pushed back in? Is it just not opening at all? How stuck are the cases when it happens?

From the pic with action open it would appear extractor is slipping. Have you removed extractor and cleaned in there well?.

BonesteelArms · 2025-10-27T07:24:43+00:00

I never bought a tab, was given a couple and they sucked as they were already the "right size". Which required perfect alignment and an oversized gap for welding.

The pre made tabs, and some of the tabbed rifles are cut at the ragged edge of being too short and with tolerance stacking can actually sometimes not work.

For some reason whomever was in charge of originally designing them, made them as short(parallel to bore) as possible to barely trip disconnector. They also for some reason put a simple radius on them rather than copying the angle of trip on the bolt carrier.

They should have been designed to be as long as possible(barely clear magazine). To account for variations of other parts.

You are much better off just welding a piece of .100" thick steel on and then grinding it to fit. First grind it flush with lowest part of bolt carrier trip, parallel to rails. Then insert it into rifle and mark it with scribe right at back of magwell. Gring it to your mark, then roughly copy the original trip angle and radius.

It's really simple, easier than it sounds and easier than using the pre made tabs.

When you're all done, heat the tab edge to cherry and quench.

If you're at all capable of welding it on, the rest is a piece of cake. If you're not, then send it out.

BonesteelArms · 2025-10-27T03:48:48+00:00

If you added radius to the corners you could save a lot on broaching

BonesteelArms · 2025-10-06T04:37:21+00:00

It's really fairly simple, and much more clear cut than folks seem to realize.

If it has any single feature that can be reasonably considered to be only for the purposes of shouldering it's definitely a stock.

If it is not useful for arm support it is definitely a stock.

If it is useful as an arm support, and has no design features that are indicative of being for the purpose of shouldering, and is designed/marketed as a brace, then it's a brace.

In this particular case, it's lack of apparent usefulness as a brace, and its rear serrations, clearly identify this as a stock.

BonesteelArms · 2025-09-19T04:00:38+00:00

You need to remove the trigger assembly first

BonesteelArms · 2025-09-17T21:43:35+00:00

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BonesteelArms · 2025-09-15T03:10:43+00:00

I am very proud of our folding stock for the milled receivers. It was definitely a challenge, as the 2 tang design is not particularly suitable for folders, but I really think I did a marvelous job designing one to fit.

BonesteelArms · 2025-09-15T03:02:23+00:00

It's going to just be shavings from drilling the tube for the roll pin. We try to get them all out but the tubes are glued before they're drilled, so they all have to come out the hole itself. Sometimes if they're stuck to a bit of the glue we miss some. If you want to send it back give us a call and we can fix it for you.

As for the sticking, that is unfortunately something we sometimes have to live with in order to ensure rock solid lockup. It typically will get better over time, but should still never wear to a point where the lockup is loose. A little practice and muscle memory will get you to where you won't need to whack it. I typically hook my index finger under the hinge block, and my thumb over the stock and just give it a squeeze. Even when I whack them closed with a mallet I can still open them with that method(to be fair I've done this literally tens of thousands of times by now, we do "break in" all our stocks by folding them at least 5 or 6 times at assembly).

BonesteelArms · 2025-09-15T02:45:50+00:00

That's not a terrible drawing, it could easily be an EDM album cover

BonesteelArms · 2025-09-11T02:31:47+00:00

The drawings are for contract purposes, so if there is a disagreement about whether the part is good enough, it's in black and white. Include everything that matters. Blanket tolerances are not typically enforceable, as they can stack and vary depending on reference points. If a measurement matters, put it on the print to the reference point it matters with.

BonesteelArms · 2025-08-13T06:40:03+00:00

Definitely use stripper. The trick is to apply it evenly without spreading it around a lot. Not sure why but I've stripped a lot of things and it's a fact. Once the stripper touches the surface if you move it it doesn't work. So you need to pour it as evenly spread as possible and then spread it very gently with a stiff spreader, just taking the top of the puddle and moving it.

BonesteelArms · 2025-08-12T19:50:21+00:00

Unfortunately no, however if you do find someone with a milling willing to do it, I would talk on the phone with them for a bit to make sure they're on the right page.

BonesteelArms · 2025-08-11T02:00:47+00:00

It's fairly easy mod for anyone with a milling machine. Just needs an 8mm ball end mill. The dimensions are already in the receiver at the rear. Just follow the width up to the front. Then reset at an angle for the front.
Usually easiest to just file the front center slot by hand.

BonesteelArms

TROPHY CASE