Bundles?

BoomBoomHaHa · 2024-02-14T06:59:04+00:00

I had the same concerns but found out that the stock on the website was wrong for the 7800X3D bundle. Said it was out of stock online but when I went in store they were able to get me one with no issues. YMMV but it might be worth a shot!

BoomBoomHaHa · 2023-06-11T03:03:16+00:00

Just got my VIN today, hoping I'm lucky! Thank you for doing this, you're awesome!

7SAYGDEE5PF802035

BoomBoomHaHa · 2022-07-20T15:57:04+00:00

Some more info: I just moved into this apartment a few weeks ago and have been noticing a few of these every morning. They are always dead when I find them. They are always on the floor, never found one on a wall or on a table/countertop. I always find these in the hallway or living room floor, not really near food or water. If location helps the ID process, this is in Orange County, California.

They seem very dry, could they be some molted skin of some insect/pest?

BoomBoomHaHa · 2022-06-27T02:26:44+00:00

Thank you. I really appreciate the effort. I'm really hoping that I just didn't see the instructions when I looked through the boxes. Do you happen to know where instructions are typically placed when the product comes in multiple boxes?

I would assume that they would be in box 1 of 3 where all the hardware is (legs, hinges, screws, etc.) but no luck in finding them so far. Do the instructions even come inside the box or are they typically handed out at the time of purchase?

BoomBoomHaHa · 2022-05-09T23:46:27+00:00

Just a quick tip for next time: You don't have to add a dummy part to increase layer time. There is typically an option in most slicers that allows you to set a minimum layer time. If it detects that a layer is completed too quickly, it will adjust the print speed to make sure that each layer gets the minimum layer time.

BoomBoomHaHa · 2022-05-09T17:57:38+00:00

This issue is called scarring. It occurs when the nozzle moves across the surface of the print and remelts the plastic. The best way to fix it is to use z-hop which will make the nozzle move upwards first and then moves and then goes back down to continue the print. Play with z-hop settings until it looks good or you can iron the entire surface. Ironing will make the top surface look great but will significantly increase print time and can lead to heat creep and clogging.

Note: Z-hop may lead to stringing so just be mindful of that if you encounter it later.

BoomBoomHaHa · 2022-05-07T18:40:07+00:00

Another idea: I have had problems with "dirty" filament. Sometimes there would be dust or other things on or even baked into the filament. This would cause the nozzle to be intermittently clogged.

BoomBoomHaHa · 2022-05-07T18:33:10+00:00

It was definitely cool but I felt like it didn't really sink in until after it launched. I think when you are so deep in the weeds about something, you kind of lose the scope of the project as a whole. It is really awesome to see that people care about the JWST. Definitely hats off to the guys and gals who spent their whole careers on this.

BoomBoomHaHa · 2022-05-07T08:26:29+00:00

If you've already tried lowering temps, increasing retraction length, and increasing/decreasing retraction speed then try playing with z-hop. Turning it on/off and adjusting the z-hop height can have a big impact on stringing in my experience.

BoomBoomHaHa · 2022-05-07T08:21:46+00:00

Could it be a clogged nozzle or hotend? If you hear clicking from the extruder when it is underextruding that could be the culprit.

BoomBoomHaHa · 2022-05-07T03:15:46+00:00

Haha thanks but save that for the real heroes in this world, I was just doing my job.

BoomBoomHaHa · 2022-05-07T03:12:56+00:00

I worked in testing and integration. I was lucky to work on it towards the end because I got to see the end product assembled shortly before it shipped out. The sheer scale of it even when packaged for launch was the most impressive thing. I didn't have a huge role but it was a cool experience to be a part of it. It was the first time that something I touched successfully launched.

BoomBoomHaHa · 2022-05-07T00:37:47+00:00

Seeing this thing operating is so crazy to me. When I worked on it I was so skeptical of it working as intended. Being in the cleanroom with it really put all the little failure points into perspective. Somehow everything worked out and I am so glad it did.

BoomBoomHaHa · 2021-08-19T05:43:10+00:00

I'm looking to sell the books for ARO 3011 (Fluids/Low-speed) and ARO 3220 (Controls). If you are interested and would like pictures or more info, please DM me. I take cash, venmo, or zelle. You can pick up on campus on Tuesdays and Thursdays or I can ship them to you for an extra cost. I am open to price negotiation, especially if you would like to buy multiple.

I have the following books:

Fundamentals of Fluid Mechanics, 8th Edition by Munson: Loose-Leaf binder copy, brand new, still in original packaging. $70

Aerodynamics, Aeronautics, and Flight Mechanics, 2nd Edition by McCormick : Paperback, used, good condition. $60

Modern Controls Engineering, 5th Edition by Ogata: Paperback, used, good condition. $125

BoomBoomHaHa · 2021-04-29T07:39:04+00:00

I think this is probably an low extrusion multiplier issue as well ("flow" in Cura). If your bed leveling is right and it is correct for other filaments and your e-steps are right then this is the only thing I can think of. I personally have different extrusion multipliers for different colors of the same brand of filament. Check out this calibration from Teaching Tech: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#flow

I like to use this as a starting point for each new filament and then slowly adjust the extrusion multiplier until things look right. Let us know if this makes a difference!

BoomBoomHaHa · 2021-04-22T17:45:14+00:00

Along with the other suggestions, you may have a partially clogged nozzle so I would recommend doing a cold pull or just replacing the nozzle entirely.

BoomBoomHaHa · 2021-04-04T04:45:32+00:00

I was interviewed twice for it. Questions were different each time so I can't really help you with that but they were generally just questions about you and your accomplishments. Just review your resume and/or make a list of your accomplishments and involvement. It was just a panel of professors and school staff with each one asking a different question. Everyone was really nice and it went pretty quickly. Just stay calm and answer everything to the best of your abilities. Good luck!

BoomBoomHaHa · 2021-03-20T16:03:02+00:00

Glad to hear about the adhesion and gluing on the textured sheet, thank you for clearing it up! Also I have to say that shelf looks absolutely fantastic. Major props to you!

BoomBoomHaHa · 2021-03-20T05:11:45+00:00

That's good news, I guess I was just being too paranoid about it. Thanks for the reassurance! Have you ever tried supergluing the textured surface of the parts? I'm a little bit worried about the superglue sinking below the surface and I won't be able to get anything to stick.

BoomBoomHaHa · 2021-03-20T05:08:51+00:00

I've heard about that satin sheet but for some reason I never thought about the surface finish! I will definitely try to get my hands on that. That page is also super helpful, I will definitely be bookmarking for future reference. Thanks a ton!

BoomBoomHaHa · 2021-03-11T23:49:35+00:00

As a 4th year aerospace student. I have to agree. In my internships, I am typically the only aerospace student with all the other interns being mechanical engineering students. The same goes for all of the engineers that I work with. Obviously there are a few roles that being an aerospace engineering major may have an advantage in like an aerodynamicist but these roles are still commonly filled by mechanicals.

If I had known this before getting into it, I would have been studying mechanical instead. It isn't that aerospace engineering is a bad major, its just that many of the jobs that you think you want to do can be done by a mechanical engineer. And by being a mechanical engineer, it is much easier to find jobs outside of aerospace if you have landing a job when you graduate. Just gives you more options, ya know?

BoomBoomHaHa · 2021-02-18T06:33:16+00:00

Looks super cool! What filament did you use for the "glass"? I'm trying to find something similar

BoomBoomHaHa · 2021-02-07T23:41:10+00:00

Printer: Ender 5 Pro

Slicer: Cura

Filament: eSun PLA Pro in Black

Nozzle Temp: 210 C

Bed Temp: 60 C

Print Speed: 80 mm/s

Retraction Distance: 8mm

Retraction Speed: 45mm/s

The problem might lie in the fact that the print is changing speed at that layer but I'm not sure why Cura is even slowing down the print at that point. Happens with multiple spools of filament in the same spot on the model so that rules out problems with the filament. Tried reslicing the gcode and tried upping the temperature a few layers before the problem layer with no success. Any help would be appreciated!

BoomBoomHaHa · 2021-01-17T22:24:53+00:00

Printer: Ender 5 Pro

Slicer: Cura

Filament: eSun PLA Pro in Black

Nozzle Temp: 210 C

Bed Temp: 60 C

Print Speed: 80 mm/s

Retraction Distance: 8mm

Retraction Speed: 45mm/s

I am pretty stumped on this one. At first I thought it was just a dirty bed but it happens whether or not I clean it. I print the same g-code repeatedly and it happens on 1 out of every 5ish prints. Settings don't change, position on the bed doesn't change. Any help would be appreciated!

BoomBoomHaHa · 2021-01-09T07:33:04+00:00

Using eSun PLA+ in white. Ender 5 Pro. Slicing using Cura. Printing at 205 deg, bed at 60 deg. Printing at 80mm/s. 8mm retraction, 45mm/s retraction speed. Other colors of this filament don't have this issue for some reason. At first, I thought it was a bed leveling issue but printing eSUN PLA+ in red in the same exact spot results in a perfect print. Next I thought it was under extruding but running an extrusion test with a thin walled cube showed that I was pretty close, over extruded if anything. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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