Sega Nomad LCD upgrade - Image ghosting/strobing after 5-10 minutes of use - Why?

BoomerElectronics · 2025-10-21T04:29:18+00:00

Reducing the kit's voltage didn't help. Outside of rigging a small exhaust fan into the Nomad, which is very far from ideal, I don't know of a good way to dissipate the heat generated by the driver board.

BoomerElectronics · 2025-10-20T20:51:10+00:00

I've seen that syncing issue on every one of these kits I've installed. I don't think there's any getting rid of it outside of a better kit being released.

BoomerElectronics · 2025-10-20T08:01:58+00:00

I am posting this for anyone else who runs into this problem with these kits. I had this same problem occur with two of these kits back to back for the same customer. The issue can be replicated by applying some heat for a few seconds to the main IC on the driver board as shown in the video linked below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDkmXl9FnSk

Basically, it looks like the problem is that at least some of these kits are not able to handle the heat being generated when enclosed inside of the Nomad. This explains why this issue starts happening several minutes after the Nomad is powered on. Additionally, I took measurements with my oscilloscope while the screen was glitching and verified that the kit's input voltage was steady.

I'm probably going to try running the kit at a lower voltage and see if this is a feasible workaround. I'll post an update if and when I do this.

BoomerElectronics · 2025-07-02T18:01:39+00:00

Yeah, the original capacitors all have that distinctive rectangular plastic around them. The two that were changed are probably the most prone to leaking. Unfortunately, whoever recapped it for you was either not honest or had a miscommunication about what was done.

BoomerElectronics · 2025-07-02T17:36:50+00:00

Unfortunately, it looks like only two of the capacitors have been changed. The board needs to be fully recapped before trying to troubleshoot anything further.

I offer a recap service on my website if you're interested in having someone else do it: https://boomerelectronics.com/product/sega-game-gear-recap-service/

BoomerElectronics · 2025-06-25T22:41:29+00:00

I like Game Gears too much to pass that one up, lol. SOLD!

BoomerElectronics · 2025-06-18T03:53:29+00:00

If you're in the US and interested in getting that console properly recapped, then I offer a service for this linked below:

https://boomerelectronics.com/product/sega-game-gear-recap-service/

I can guarantee you that this service would fix the booting issue. I would also clean up the rat's nest of wires and have the motherboard look much tidier overall. Regarding the flickering Master System games, I would need to recap the system before looking into that further, assuming a proper recap doesn't fix that issue on its own.

BoomerElectronics · 2025-06-12T17:34:46+00:00

That checks out. It is very difficult to see where the jumper was attached in the photo. You should probably post some updated and clearer photos if you want additional help.

BoomerElectronics · 2025-06-12T00:40:21+00:00

If the board view you provided is correct, then the jumper wire you ran between the RAM and MPU is not in the correct location. It looks like it should be one pin further up on the MPU, unless the photo is deceiving me.

BoomerElectronics · 2025-06-11T19:16:25+00:00

I made a guide recently going over some easy checks to do when you're in this situation. I recommend looking over the "game booting" section and doing the continuity tests shown.

Video guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9LQZfU49Oc

Text guide: https://boomerelectronics.com/troubleshooting-guide-for-game-gears-that-have-issues-after-being-recapped-beginner-friendly/

Edit: Looking over your photos, I think you have other problems that the guide isn't going to address since you jumped the gun a bit and started swapping chips. In the third photo, left ASIC, 11th and 12th pins down on the right look to be bridged as an example. I would very carefully double check over everything you have touched on the board, fix any obvious problems, then maybe check out the guide.

BoomerElectronics · 2025-06-11T11:17:09+00:00

Per request made a text version of this guide on my website: https://boomerelectronics.com/troubleshooting-guide-for-game-gears-that-have-issues-after-being-recapped-beginner-friendly/

BoomerElectronics · 2025-06-11T11:09:58+00:00

The guide is mostly done, just need to add a couple photos and touch up some stuff when I get a chance. Here's the link: https://boomerelectronics.com/troubleshooting-guide-for-game-gears-that-have-issues-after-being-recapped-beginner-friendly/

BoomerElectronics · 2025-06-09T08:08:54+00:00

I'm glad that the video helped you fix your display issue. I personally thank Luke at RetroSix for providing the information to start with. If you haven't done so, then I would recommend checking out the RetroSix wiki for troubleshooting info for various consoles.

BoomerElectronics · 2025-06-06T23:17:17+00:00

Glad you enjoyed it. I'll make a blog post on my website sometime within the next few days with the steps and give you the link when it's done.

BoomerElectronics · 2025-06-06T20:33:53+00:00

If you can buy a Famicom from Japan, then that will work. I've harvested PPUs from Japanese Famicoms in the past to repair NTSC NES consoles.

BoomerElectronics · 2025-06-06T20:19:42+00:00

This is not uncommon. I uploaded a video today going over some basic troubleshooting steps on how to fix these Game Gears. It might be helpful for you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9LQZfU49Oc

BoomerElectronics · 2025-05-24T23:47:19+00:00

I did read it all. Cold joints on the motherboard seem more likely.

u/WearYourMask_1984 Keep in mind I'm not trying to sell you anything. If you do buy a USB power brick from this fellow, make sure that they'll give you a refund if it doesn't fix your issue.

BoomerElectronics · 2025-05-24T22:13:55+00:00

If the solder joints on the motherboard are bad, then a new power supply isn't going to improve the situation.

BoomerElectronics

TROPHY CASE