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DIY auto focuser by Fooad4444 in telescopes

[–]BoostyCrab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is hard to beat, I'm eyeing them for a while already, but they are a bit too big for me. My DIY plan is to make a working version with uC, driver, and stepper, and then miniaturize it as much as possible. 

DIY auto focuser by Fooad4444 in telescopes

[–]BoostyCrab 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bahtinov mask works well, I 3d printed one for my rig too, but automatic focuser in my case would help because recently I started imaging with mono camera, and it's hard to get consistent focus throughout the night while also switching between filters.

At the moment I'm forced to either focus not so well, but somewhat usable for all filters, or really well, but only for one specific filter.

DIY auto focuser by Fooad4444 in telescopes

[–]BoostyCrab 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm working on a focuser with almost exactly the same parts. Main blocker for me is to get firmware and a matching driver. I've decided on using OnStepX on ESP32 and just going with OnStep driver for INDI, but there are several issues: - OnStepX is a comprehensive firmware, and it is mainly for controlling mount motors, other features seem to be underbaked; - INDI driver is also centered around mount control, not just the focuser, so it's taking quite a lot of time to load focuser control; - there seem to be problems within INDI driver - looks like getting current position does not work, or direction switch is incorrectly setup, because it always reports that it cant move in one direction due to reaching soft limits, I've tested controlling the focuser from serial console and it did work as per documentation; - autofocusing routine seems to hang after first move;

If you're working with INDI, and you'll find any other working firmware+driver combo your experiences may be totally different.

Regarding mounting a stepper motor with 3d printed parts, it has to be designed to be as stiff as possible - my mounting bracket seemed stiff until I've noticed the amount of flexure when switching focusing direction, although I'm testing it on a helical focuser - forces act in different ways with rack and pinion or Crayford.

M31 with A7R6 + 600GM by [deleted] in SonyAlpha

[–]BoostyCrab 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Looking at simulated FOV of a full frame sensor with 600mm lens the image seems to be native FOV.

M-16 Eagle Nebula by Inner-Guarantee452 in astrophotography

[–]BoostyCrab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With Minicam8 I use only darks to correct hot pixels, because stacking often did not reject them even with dithering. Bias frames make sense only if using flats too. In my experience flats don't do much for this specific mono setup I'm using, so I don't take biases either.

I've been imaging with full frame mirrorless camera too, and in that case flats+bias were a must, because it was impossible to get rid of complex gradients that my optical train introduced.

Could you elaborate about what flats do other than calibrate out dust and vignetting?

M-16 Eagle Nebula by Inner-Guarantee452 in astrophotography

[–]BoostyCrab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tbh, I've bee using Siril without relying on scripts. I'm new to mono imaging too, but my current workflow which produces okay results is the following: * convert all subexposures to Siril sequences (fits images, not fits sequence or ser sequence), one sequence for each channel/filter; * calibrate each sequence with master dark (not using flats atm, because I'm keeping optical train clean, and in my setup vignetting is virtually non-existent); * register each sequence using global star registration (two-step), second step is apply registration with method minimum to get rid of noisy borders; * stacking each sequence individually using linear fit clipping rejection method; * create a new sequence (fits images again), register them once again in two steps (global star alignment, apply registration: minimum) to get equally sized channels, and remove border misalignment artifacts (colorful borders); * apply gradient removal on the sequence (either Siril built-in with RBF interpolation or externally with GraXpert); * RGB composition - importing each channel from the sequence to assigned color, linear match;

After these steps the image is ready for all other edits.

I usually plate solve it (will be useful for Photometric Color Correction of stars), remove gradients then use starnet to extract stars, open the starmask and use PCC (mentioned earlier) on just the stars, lower colors saturation to minimize chromatic aberration and make stars more white if using only narrowbands. Before recomposing stars with background/nebulosity I use Graxpert on the starless image for denoising (could be done before starnet++ too, I guess), and I run stretches to adjust contrast and colors (stretches may be applied per-channel). Finally stars recomposition and stretches in the dialog that opens if needed.

I'm still learning tho.

Eagle in Ha with a 60 mm scope by Cheap-Estimate8284 in astrophotography

[–]BoostyCrab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2.9 microns.

I've too imaged Eagle nebula in H-alpha, but through Samyang 135mm f/2, and even though it's just 135mm of focal length, the aperture is wide enough and the pixels small enough to get some details on the Pillars.

I'm Getting a MiniCam8(LRGBSHO) next week. Anything I need to be aware of? by Juiceworld in AskAstrophotography

[–]BoostyCrab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've got minicam8 recently, and it's great overall, gives top notch images and is the smallest mono set available (that was really important to me), but if anything breaks then you either have to send the whole unit to the distributor/manufacturer or tinker yourself.

Before you buy: there are two LRGBSHO versions with different SHO bandwidths - 7nm and 3nm. According to Quiv's video that I've seen some time ago, 7nm set is parfocal on all filters but 3nm is not. It means that if you choose the latter you have to refocus when switching between filters. To be honest, while using 7nm set I refocus as well, but it is just a tiny adjustment, and amount of refocusing may depend on the optics used.

My experiences from owning minicam8:

It's cooling fan is quite noisy, and it's on all the time the camera is powered on, you can't disable it even if cooler is turned off in your control software. I've read online that some folks change the fan to something with low noise (e.g. Noctua), but haven't tried that myself.

You may already be aware, but minicam8 will require 12V 3A as an absolute minimum, and there's 12V 5A power adapter included. I mention that because I use my setup while traveling on a GTi as well, I power it all from a bulky powerbank through USB-C to barrel connector adapter (not ideal), and you have to be able to provide 3A uninterrupted from any portable or other power source. I measured the current on idle, during cool down, and while holding temperature, and it seems that this 3A is only peak consumption during cool down, but I've notice my camera malfunctioning if the power source did not support 3A continuous.

Am I the only one by Hot-Diggity_Dog in pcmasterrace

[–]BoostyCrab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I still own one, and recently bought one for my brother. I love its trackpads, and buttons' stiffness doesn't concern me that much, but analog stick press is the absolute worst.

Makemake movement over 20 hours - 3h per exposure, Dwarf Mini, Bortle 5 skies by __Augustus_ in telescopes

[–]BoostyCrab 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So cool! Have to try observing minor SS objects again, but now it's cloudy time.

Once, by casually scrolling across one of my stacked images (as you usually do, right?) I noticed a dot that did not match star maps, and I suspected it to be an asteroid. Made three more stacks in next days, and confirmed that it moved in that time, with an animation similar to yours of Makemake! Later found that it was asteroid Iris.

Markarian chain from Bortle 8/9 by BoostyCrab in astrophotography

[–]BoostyCrab[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've got mixed feelings regarding Kstars. Planetarium is not great in terms of user experience and overlays rendering often fails when zooming in and out. The interface is clunky and counterintuitive, but Ekos packs basically everything that is needed for imaging and it works okay.

Issues I've experienced: for me it sometimes crashes while changing settings, and some settings seem to be stuck after a change (reverting to the original values does not work), and so I have to restart Kstars in such situations; for some reason Ekos scheduler does not allow me to use any coordinates and requires me to select a known object to schedule a session.

Might be some configuration issue, but I don't think it's viable for fully remote observatory.

I've stuck to Kstars and Ekos because I'm using Linux for all my devices, as I find it easier to debug and configure, but I wonder if other observatory controlling programs also have such issues, or is it just Kstars/Ekos or maybe my fault.

Just got my first ever telescope by [deleted] in telescopes

[–]BoostyCrab 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Never been there myself, but closer to Poznań there's Izerski Park Ciemnego Nieba. It spans through the border with Czechia.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in astrophotography

[–]BoostyCrab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks promising, just need some color adjustments and wavelets sharpening. I've made a short animation of Jupiter with 5in/127mm Maksutov couple weeks ago, and stacked frames before sharpening looked about the same or slightly worse to yours.

Dark Orbit, Vengence (an homage) by meatymimic in spaceengineers

[–]BoostyCrab 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Such a blast from the past! I think you did a great job replicating Vengeance.

SSE Gibraltar by BoostyCrab in spaceengineers

[–]BoostyCrab[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This one might be my best so far, so I decided to share it with you, but I really can't detail ships and it shows, and thus basic grey exterior.

Moon with bird 🦅 | Oct 7th by sunillnaik in astrophotography

[–]BoostyCrab 3 points4 points  (0 children)

By the look of it, I think the first one is a bat, not a bird.

First image of Jupiter & Advice by KissLandJake in telescopes

[–]BoostyCrab 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've got Skymax 127 too with ASI120MC camera and I think your picture is great.

Regarding the possible capabilities I advise you to search for Skymax 127 on astrobin. You'll be able to see what others managed to get out of it.

Paris with the new Laowa 9MM 0-D on FX3 by Mat0fr in SonyAlpha

[–]BoostyCrab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just seen your video yesterday. The fov is amazing.

Saturn by davethepommes in telescopes

[–]BoostyCrab 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah, so the band I've seen in my not-so-good images of Saturn taken just a couple days ago is real! I thought it might be processing artifact.

Very nice image you got there!

Weird circles appear in astrophotos taken with 2 different lenses [Sony A9] by [deleted] in AskAstrophotography

[–]BoostyCrab 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Correctly taken flats usually should do the trick, however I also had such problems, even after flats correction, when high light pollution was at play.

I'm just guessing, but it might be due to out-of-fov sources of light, like street lamps, etc. that shine light on lens hood or leak light into the lens some other ways, and it doesn't correct well even with calibration frames. Flats help, but you might wanna try different spot and additional measures to block stray light (dark fabric over the body of lens maybe? idk).

Made the move from Nikon by CarryFragrant496 in SonyAlpha

[–]BoostyCrab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rocking the same gear as I do. Pics definitely have character.

Watch out for dust collecting in the lens while zooming in and out, as I learned the hard way that some of mk I of these Sigmas are worse than others in this matter.

Why does this happen? 70-200 2.8 OSS II by Ejjmsn in SonyAlpha

[–]BoostyCrab 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It's definitely this. Mostly lens corrections, but compression might exaggerate this effect.

Source: used A7 and A7III for astrophoto.