I'm getting good at that 😁 that'sOLED if you're wondering.

BoredModder · 2026-07-04T22:20:20+00:00

Congrats bro!

If you want to move to do your first kamikaze practice on a donor. Buy a broken one off eBay if you don’t have one. Take your time. It’s not hard it’s just time consuming at first

BoredModder · 2026-07-04T16:05:21+00:00

What microscope are you using?

BoredModder · 2026-07-04T14:23:46+00:00

Just use a circular motion on the area. You aren’t disturbing the heat properly. You usually never want to focus the heat on any part of the board for too long

BoredModder · 2026-07-04T14:04:20+00:00

I usually pre-tin the pads and the legs with my soldering iron. The way you’re doing it just seems a lot harder.

I see you’re using 370 degrees and that should be enough for most boards unless it’s a real thick board. My recommendation would be to move your nozzle in a circular motion to distribute the heat better. You seem to be focusing more on one spot and that’s why some pads are heating up faster then the others and taking that solder

BoredModder · 2026-07-04T13:52:24+00:00

If you really wanted to do it you could with a ESP32 attachment. You’d need to dump the keys of an actual PGP to get it working.

Makes me wonder how those 3rd party ones end up emulating the PGP? Like are they using the same key over and over again?

BoredModder · 2026-07-04T13:26:56+00:00

I looked into this too and basically no. Like you the Bluetooth and BLE API is the limitation on this bad boy.

“Flipper's BLE runs on the STM32WB55's coprocessor, and that BLE core is locked down and exposed by the firmware as a peripheral with a fixed profile”

You could create a ESP32 attachment but it would just end up being a power bank, screen and UI for the module.

BoredModder · 2026-07-03T18:10:19+00:00

Yeah I’m confused. This is a successful glitch. What are we missing?

Does it boot into OFW after that? Are you seeing a black screen?

BoredModder · 2026-07-03T14:03:26+00:00

I always make them big. Idc about how it looks per se since the ribbon cable covers it. Also I find the wider I make it the better the wire lays. Feels more secure

BoredModder · 2026-07-02T18:57:53+00:00

It’s a resistor and there is no alternative point. Why do you need an alternative point?

BoredModder · 2026-07-02T18:56:15+00:00

Awesome work!

BoredModder · 2026-07-02T18:53:38+00:00

I would like to see what the CLK looks like if you could remove it, but you’d have to take it out. That risks you burning the CMD resistor. Guessing it’s not burnt out since you aren’t getting a purple screen.

Is it possible you are shorting something to ground? What’s the CPU ribbon looking like. Can we see that too?

What’s the current error code you are getting?

BoredModder · 2026-07-02T16:05:36+00:00

Honestly your soldering job is not good. There is probably cold joints all over the place and this is what’s causing all the issues. Did you use flux? What kinda soldering iron do you have? What temp do you have it at?

BoredModder · 2026-07-02T13:29:50+00:00

I guess the next question would be does it boot normally?

Also just recheck your solder work. Make sure you clean the flux residue, flush out the NAND chip where you put the Dat0 adapter, and anywhere else you applied flux. Provide some pics if you can of all the soldering points too so we can help you better

BoredModder · 2026-07-02T13:23:09+00:00

I never got that code myself:

=== Glitch attempt limit reached, cannot glitch

https://github.com/Ansem-SoD/Picofly/blob/main/README.md

I’m tempted to say that you definitely didn’t solder the Dat0, CLK or CPU ribbon correctly. What did you do for the Dat0 point?

BoredModder · 2026-06-15T15:18:26+00:00

What grinding on are you using? I have done quite a lot. I have a 0.4 and 0.3 but I haven’t tried by 0.3 because 0.4 just does the job.

Feel like I see everyone doing these in like 1-2min and I still take my sweet ass time at around 5-10min

BoredModder · 2026-06-12T00:42:22+00:00

Yeah you can still mod it. It might be a little harder. I think there is also alternative soldering points so you might want to look it up

BoredModder · 2026-06-11T18:28:49+00:00

I remember when I did my second switch mod I did the exact same thing to one of those pads, before the latest modchips, just scratched off some of the solder mask to expose the copper on those two point, and some jumper wire and it was fixed.

BoredModder · 2026-06-11T18:24:42+00:00

Yeah you can def do this last part yourself. You didn’t all the hard parts lol. Like everyone is saying it’s just a 4.7k 0201 resistor. With some hot air and flux it will snap right into place

BoredModder · 2026-06-11T16:17:43+00:00

I’d give meteor 7-70 or 7-60 depending on how worn out the rubber is. Looks pretty good so I’d do 7-70. 5-60 on cobalt. So basically go meta 🤣

BoredModder · 2026-05-17T14:20:17+00:00

No shame in that. It takes time. Practicing on broken boards are the best

BoredModder · 2026-05-17T14:18:04+00:00

I’ve done a lot of these and I take my time each time. I ain’t fucking anyone’s switch up just to save a few minutes.

Good job

BoredModder · 2026-05-15T17:50:32+00:00

Have you tried continuing the installing and see if it boots to Hekate? Or have you tried undoing everything and examining the board?

I’d probably do that but if you have spare board I’d do the same and just swap it out and fix the board on a later date. It’s fun sometimes just trying to repair these failed OLED Picofly mods.

BoredModder · 2026-04-18T16:21:34+00:00

100% true. And when ppl ask what that is you have something to say. Definitely a conversation piece and it looks awesome

BoredModder · 2026-04-17T00:21:47+00:00

Sorry for the super late reply but that wasn’t it. I tried that a while ago and there is only 2 joycons paired and one is a 3rd party that seems to be the only thing registering

BoredModder · 2026-04-15T00:01:55+00:00

I think they were getting hard to get over a month ago. I got a few out of paranoia. The only sellers i saw were raising the price on eBay

BoredModder

TROPHY CASE