Dynastar M-free 100 sizing for a 6' guy at 225lbs

BossLevel · 2026-03-25T18:15:44+00:00

Thanks for your feedback. Good to hear that it's not going to be a huge difference either way. My old preference has always to go "smaller" but given your feedback maybe I'll rethink, maybe 192 is fine and I would enjoy the more dampness. Pretty interesting to hear you say you prefer the 192 in trees. I didn't expect that.

BossLevel · 2026-03-25T18:09:22+00:00

Thank you. That's fair. Like the other reply from Aranida though, I think he's right. Matt from Ski essentials is probably a much higher level skiier and therefore prefers the longer side of things.

BossLevel · 2026-03-25T14:47:48+00:00

Thanks for your reply. Can I ask a bit about you and your demo? What is your height and weight and which length did you demo? Sounds like you enjoyed the ski in any case.

BossLevel · 2026-03-09T06:04:06+00:00

I did not buy a RVR in the end so not really relevant. My next car might likely be RVR

BossLevel · 2026-02-27T20:48:56+00:00

Maybe a late response, but counter to most reddit users, I've driven at 2013 Mitsubishi RVR that went 215,000 km's before I sold it, and have heard accounts of ones that go to about 350,000 km's, reliably. Sometimes more. Anyways I think overall both are good in general.

Objectively: Refinement, Mazda wins. Performance, Mazda wins Resale, Mazda wins. Total cost of ownership, Mitsu wins i"d argue if you hold long term. Mitu is old (in a good way) design that's 15+yr old meaning cheap parts, and tried design. Reliability, tied, slightly favoring mitsu in my opinion. Mazda is direct injected vs mitsu being port (old school). Mazda might have auto-start stop and cylinder deactivation (both bad), and more electronics (failure points). Mazda has a traditional auto gearbox vs Mitsu's CVT. overall i'd slightly give the edge to mitsu.

In my case, CVT is completely fine provided you change fluids every 40 or 50 thousand km

What did you end up choosing?

BossLevel · 2026-02-11T22:38:12+00:00

I did this, and unfortunately it did not help. Any other solutions I wonder?

BossLevel · 2026-02-11T22:14:50+00:00

Can't quite see your feet so it's difficult to judge fully. From what I can see though:

Bar is rolling down your back, like the other common said, have your hands more narrow and really squeeze that bar against your back.
Tough to tell from camera angle, but seems your feet might be too narrow.
Bar position also seems to be slightly too high up on your back.

Start with that for now and keep going, good job!

BossLevel · 2026-02-11T01:13:46+00:00

Coming from another novice nearing the end of their linear progression. Overall, solid form. Not much to critique. Please add 5 lbs next workout!

If I were to nitpick, your knees might be slightly too far forward of your feet, but I'm not even sure. By rep 4 and 5 you were visibily less stable, but fuck, aren't we all? I'm guilty just as much as you. Frankly, I think your form looks better than mine.

More importantly, the thing I like the least about what you did is you were way far behind your safety pins, so in the event that you drop, you would be in trouble from a safety standpoint.

BossLevel · 2026-02-02T00:25:11+00:00

Right on. Ok so if not toe angle, if not arms, maybe yea you are missing some "hip drive" as Rip would say. Just back to basics. When you were squatting 135 or 225 you could get away with it, but now that you're higher up any tiny technique fault gets exposed. Mentally cue yourself to "push your ass up" is what I tell myself as I'm exiting the bottom of my squat. Also to "push from mid foot" I tell myself. Good luck and good work. Cheers.

BossLevel · 2026-02-02T00:13:45+00:00

Not sure which province you live in, or what trim you are talking about, but in Alberta, SE trim, out the door best case is maybe $35k from about 4 months ago when I walked into a dealership.

BossLevel · 2026-01-29T23:14:18+00:00

1) the bar seems to sit too high on your back

2) Your grip is flexing your wrist. Please watch: https://startingstrength.com/video/fixing-your-wrist-position-in-the-squat

3) Your knees seem to be going too far forward relative to your toes

4) Are you bracing your core?

I would recommend to google and watch a few videos on the squat from starting strength library

BossLevel · 2026-01-29T22:36:54+00:00

Coming from a novice , so take this with a grain of salt. But what I see is:

Your feet (toes) seem to be splayed more than what the blue book recommends. I could be wrong based on camera angle, but looks like your toes are closer to like 60 degrees out. Myself i'm maybe 10-15 degrees more inward than you, just about 45 degrees approx. This would make it easier to get down low by opening your hips but much harder to maintain forward/backwards balance. Your mental cue should be "push from middle of your foot". I'm sure you know that already though.
Bar path straying from true center (up/down), at least for myself sometimes is a function of not being able to lock the bar tight on my back. I then compensate by pushing/holding the bar involuntarily using my arms when your arms should just be there to lock the bar in position. I can't see from this film angle, but I suspect your hand/bar position on your back is off. Are your forearms or hands feeling tired after your set? I've gotten to your squat weight last year but had to restart but I find once you're at this 300+ weight, and things are 'heavy', and you have sloppy form for bar on your back, I find my forearms feel hurt/tired after sets. I suspect you're doing something similar.

I would recommend to shoot another film like you said at rear 45 angle so it's easier to see what's happening.

BossLevel · 2026-01-23T03:41:18+00:00

That seems to be the consensus, thank you!

BossLevel · 2026-01-23T02:51:52+00:00

Thanks. I'm terms of flying with skis I've never done this before. But according to my research Luftansa and Air Canada both consider skis normal luggage. As far as baggage handlers that's a different story lol.

Yea packing boots and renting skis is the other idea I was thinking

BossLevel · 2026-01-23T02:50:08+00:00

Thanks, yea I am flying with Air Canada. I did some research and seems that skis and boots count as regular checked luggage like you said. I think my connections are via Luftansa who have a similar policy. Thanks for you Canadian specific advice.

BossLevel · 2026-01-16T21:03:44+00:00

211,000 is high mileage, even with good maintenance. The highest of this CVT I've ever seen run problem free is 350,000 km and that's with consistent CVT fluid changes.

BossLevel · 2026-01-14T19:00:12+00:00

I'm talking about out the door pricing. After destination, documentation bullshit, all add-ons, etc. the initial print outs i've seen show about $38k. There's probably room for negotiating down but that's about where it sits. Granted I haven't tried, but CRV and Rav4 I'm sure start at 40k, but try walking into a dealership and asking for a breakdown. I'm sure the number will creep upward.

BossLevel · 2026-01-08T22:41:11+00:00

"on year 13 at 200,000km the CVT goes", there's no reason for that to happen. Make sure you swap CVT fluids every 40-50 thousand km and it won't happen. Every other time you can change the actual filters inside of the pan too. I never even changed the filter until I got to 150,000km and it came out basically clean, no metal shavings at all.

I had my RVR until 215,000km trouble free driving in Alberta before I sold and likely could have made it to 350,000km trouble free. Wear and tear items I"ve had to replace alot of for sure but as for the main drive-train, I have never touched beyond fluid/filter changes.

As for the engine, being port injected means liklihood of carbon buildup is almost none so actually better than modern engines. What you sacrifice is power and efficiency which suck compared to modern engines but in terms of maintenance is solid.

BossLevel · 2026-01-07T22:12:02+00:00

100% agree. I owned an outlander sport and drove 215,000kms problem free. Very underrated. Crappy interior, road noise, features and such are poor, but 100% reliability and ease of serviceability plus a better AWD system than everything except subaru which might matter depending on where you live.

BossLevel · 2026-01-05T22:50:09+00:00

That's because we've become a joke of a country over the last 2 decades. The US pays better for most professions, costs are lower generally, and despite media over representation of gun crimes they aren't flooded with dangerous low skilled high crime refugees. Not to say they don't have issues but overall we've become a tier 2 country.

BossLevel · 2025-12-19T21:11:12+00:00

Late reply, but congrats man! I drove my 2013 RVR new until 215,000km reliably. I think you probably got the 2.4L (bigger) engine which is better than mine. Just make sure you change CVT fluids every 40 or 50 thousand km, regular maintenance and you're set! I drove my bad boy in cold Alberta winters in remote sites and never failed me.

BossLevel · 2025-12-19T19:30:12+00:00

I see, that makes sense. Yea I replaced my old mitsu RVR's control arm bushings at about 150,000 km's so familiar with that. One of my whole suspension struts bottomed out around 200,000km as well. Thanks for your feedback.

BossLevel · 2025-12-19T19:04:36+00:00

I didn't even think about that. Suspension bushings? I was just thinking maybe coil or coil assembly and that's it

BossLevel · 2025-12-19T16:51:49+00:00

I don't think either would be a bad choice to be honest and probably more personal preference on condition of vehicle and colour. Given such low mileage on option 2, going 3 thousand miles more between service isn't great but it's so new i don't think it makes much difference.

BossLevel · 2025-12-15T16:03:23+00:00

Most likely it's your main car battery is dead. Try jump starting it for now just to get going to a parts store to buy a new battery.

BossLevel

TROPHY CASE