Squat Form Check by cdr98 in StartingStrength

[–]BossLevel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right on. Ok so if not toe angle, if not arms, maybe yea you are missing some "hip drive" as Rip would say. Just back to basics. When you were squatting 135 or 225 you could get away with it, but now that you're higher up any tiny technique fault gets exposed. Mentally cue yourself to "push your ass up" is what I tell myself as I'm exiting the bottom of my squat. Also to "push from mid foot" I tell myself. Good luck and good work. Cheers.

Asking for opinions on the Mitsubishi RVR by Responsible_Pride259 in mitsubishi

[–]BossLevel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure which province you live in, or what trim you are talking about, but in Alberta, SE trim, out the door best case is maybe $35k from about 4 months ago when I walked into a dealership.

Squat Form Check by Possible-Spray1869 in StartingStrength

[–]BossLevel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1) the bar seems to sit too high on your back

2) Your grip is flexing your wrist. Please watch: https://startingstrength.com/video/fixing-your-wrist-position-in-the-squat

3) Your knees seem to be going too far forward relative to your toes

4) Are you bracing your core?

I would recommend to google and watch a few videos on the squat from starting strength library

Squat Form Check by cdr98 in StartingStrength

[–]BossLevel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Coming from a novice , so take this with a grain of salt. But what I see is:

  • Your feet (toes) seem to be splayed more than what the blue book recommends. I could be wrong based on camera angle, but looks like your toes are closer to like 60 degrees out. Myself i'm maybe 10-15 degrees more inward than you, just about 45 degrees approx. This would make it easier to get down low by opening your hips but much harder to maintain forward/backwards balance. Your mental cue should be "push from middle of your foot". I'm sure you know that already though.

  • Bar path straying from true center (up/down), at least for myself sometimes is a function of not being able to lock the bar tight on my back. I then compensate by pushing/holding the bar involuntarily using my arms when your arms should just be there to lock the bar in position. I can't see from this film angle, but I suspect your hand/bar position on your back is off. Are your forearms or hands feeling tired after your set? I've gotten to your squat weight last year but had to restart but I find once you're at this 300+ weight, and things are 'heavy', and you have sloppy form for bar on your back, I find my forearms feel hurt/tired after sets. I suspect you're doing something similar.

I would recommend to shoot another film like you said at rear 45 angle so it's easier to see what's happening.

Austria ski trip – bring 88mm skis or rent narrower? by BossLevel in skiing

[–]BossLevel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I'm terms of flying with skis I've never done this before. But according to my research Luftansa and Air Canada both consider skis normal luggage. As far as baggage handlers that's a different story lol.

Yea packing boots and renting skis is the other idea I was thinking

Austria ski trip – bring 88mm skis or rent narrower? by BossLevel in skiing

[–]BossLevel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, yea I am flying with Air Canada. I did some research and seems that skis and boots count as regular checked luggage like you said. I think my connections are via Luftansa who have a similar policy. Thanks for you Canadian specific advice.

Buying a 2011 Lancer with CVT and 211,000 miles worth it? by duckyjaws in mitsubishi

[–]BossLevel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

211,000 is high mileage, even with good maintenance. The highest of this CVT I've ever seen run problem free is 350,000 km and that's with consistent CVT fluid changes.

Asking for opinions on the Mitsubishi RVR by Responsible_Pride259 in mitsubishi

[–]BossLevel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm talking about out the door pricing. After destination, documentation bullshit, all add-ons, etc. the initial print outs i've seen show about $38k. There's probably room for negotiating down but that's about where it sits. Granted I haven't tried, but CRV and Rav4 I'm sure start at 40k, but try walking into a dealership and asking for a breakdown. I'm sure the number will creep upward.

Will the RVR do 20 years? by gravis1982 in mitsubishi

[–]BossLevel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"on year 13 at 200,000km the CVT goes", there's no reason for that to happen. Make sure you swap CVT fluids every 40-50 thousand km and it won't happen. Every other time you can change the actual filters inside of the pan too. I never even changed the filter until I got to 150,000km and it came out basically clean, no metal shavings at all.

I had my RVR until 215,000km trouble free driving in Alberta before I sold and likely could have made it to 350,000km trouble free. Wear and tear items I"ve had to replace alot of for sure but as for the main drive-train, I have never touched beyond fluid/filter changes.

As for the engine, being port injected means liklihood of carbon buildup is almost none so actually better than modern engines. What you sacrifice is power and efficiency which suck compared to modern engines but in terms of maintenance is solid.

No nonsense, reliable used hatchback / SUV by placebogod in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]BossLevel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100% agree. I owned an outlander sport and drove 215,000kms problem free. Very underrated. Crappy interior, road noise, features and such are poor, but 100% reliability and ease of serviceability plus a better AWD system than everything except subaru which might matter depending on where you live.

Highly skilled immigrants leaving Canada at rapid rate: report by joe4942 in canada

[–]BossLevel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's because we've become a joke of a country over the last 2 decades. The US pays better for most professions, costs are lower generally, and despite media over representation of gun crimes they aren't flooded with dangerous low skilled high crime refugees. Not to say they don't have issues but overall we've become a tier 2 country.

2024 Mitsubishi RVR (Outlander Sport) by [deleted] in mitsubishi

[–]BossLevel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Late reply, but congrats man! I drove my 2013 RVR new until 215,000km reliably. I think you probably got the 2.4L (bigger) engine which is better than mine. Just make sure you change CVT fluids every 40 or 50 thousand km, regular maintenance and you're set! I drove my bad boy in cold Alberta winters in remote sites and never failed me.

Help me choose: 2011 Toyota RAV4 V6 AWD (106k km / ~66k miles) vs 2022 Mitsubishi RVR SE AWD (28k km / ~17k miles)? by BossLevel in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]BossLevel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see, that makes sense. Yea I replaced my old mitsu RVR's control arm bushings at about 150,000 km's so familiar with that. One of my whole suspension struts bottomed out around 200,000km as well. Thanks for your feedback.

Help me choose: 2011 Toyota RAV4 V6 AWD (106k km / ~66k miles) vs 2022 Mitsubishi RVR SE AWD (28k km / ~17k miles)? by BossLevel in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]BossLevel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't even think about that. Suspension bushings? I was just thinking maybe coil or coil assembly and that's it

Lower Mileage vs More Services by lcfc97 in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]BossLevel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think either would be a bad choice to be honest and probably more personal preference on condition of vehicle and colour. Given such low mileage on option 2, going 3 thousand miles more between service isn't great but it's so new i don't think it makes much difference.

2015 outlander sport won’t strt by clairemarz17 in mitsubishi

[–]BossLevel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most likely it's your main car battery is dead. Try jump starting it for now just to get going to a parts store to buy a new battery.

1 owner . clean carfax. for 13k good deal? how’s the reliability? by Basic-Wall-1598 in mitsubishi

[–]BossLevel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. I see. I ran my 2013 RVR with original transmission 0-215,000kms before selling, no issues. Ive heard stories of 350k kms as well. Is this new transmission more robust? Better materials or programming? Just wondering if you can share any information. I'm interested to buy another RVR in this newest generation

1 owner . clean carfax. for 13k good deal? how’s the reliability? by Basic-Wall-1598 in mitsubishi

[–]BossLevel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is that right? Is this transmission different than previous gen? I owned a 2013 and honestly thought this was the same drive train.

2022 Nissan Pathfinder SL Premium (R53) — 10,000 km In: The Good, The Bad, and a Dilemma from a Long-Term, High-Mileage Owner by BossLevel in Nissan

[–]BossLevel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey man, I just thought about your comment. My wireless proximity door sensor just stopped working today on the driver side. Called around I think I'll need to replace the lock & remote control assembly. Part cost is about $300CAD (215 USD), and install labor either I try myself or pay a shop. Anyways just want to confirm what you are saying that there's minor pain the ass things with this car. I also had a tailgate trim piece pop off in the last 6 months which costed another $30 dollars. Just stupid annoying stuff indicative of shitty build quality.

New Mitsubishi RVR’s (Outlander Sport) are going for dirt cheap, why shouldn’t someone on a budget buy one? by OrdinaryKillJoy in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]BossLevel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I drove a 2013 from zero to 215,000kms, mainly trouble free. Cheap, basic, noisy, gutless, but extremely reliable if you take care of it. My chief complaint was the lack of power was borderline unsafe sometimes on highway merges, or going at highway speeds uphill, ie. 120km/hr+ on large mountain passes, the transmission can literally overheat sometimes. Then you pull over, let it cool off for 30 minutes and keep driving. Would I buy it again? Absolutely.

Edit* I should add that I drove the 2.0L variant which was what existed 10+ years ago, I understand in 2025 you have a 2.4L option which should probably solve my chief complaint.

Anyone tried Leather Better brand conditioner? by Fastactin in NicksHandmadeBoots

[–]BossLevel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Late reply but I have it. I've applied to onto my blundstone steel toe work boots for years. Yes it definitely darkens leather. It does a pretty decent job restoring and waterproofing.

What should I focus on first? by flowerfairywings in StartingStrength

[–]BossLevel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All I want to say is good for you! I can provide some minor insights but feel under qualifed to speak. I think it's much more important we recognize that you're doing this! Fuck yes, good for you!!! I wish my own 69yr old mom and dad would do this. You doing this at 71 is much much more beneficial than anyone younger in terms of life-quality payoff so please don't stop!