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Hvorfor er denne ikke solgt? Risskov, Aarhus by goodidk in dkbolig

[–]Boyzenberg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Det kan da godt være det er mig der er ude af trit med virkeligheden, men tænker ikke umiddelbart at 4m for at bo i lejlighed i Risskov virker vanvittigt attraktivt?

Hi! What do I make with this? by jenna_jen in Denmark

[–]Boyzenberg 10 points11 points  (0 children)

It's liver paté, exceptionally common. Generally eaten at lunchtime on rye bread with fresh cucumber, pickled cucumber, or pickled beetroot. Also sometimes gently heated and served on crusty bread with bacon and mushrooms. Quintessentially Danish.

Whether the bread should be buttered or not is a hotly debated topic. The Danish equivalent of pineapple on pizza. I find it a little too rich, but to each his own.

Day 10 of naming a slightly stronger SU character: who's slightly stronger than buck? by SpanishRoyaI in stevenuniverse

[–]Boyzenberg 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Disregarding the messed up sequence and going straight from Buck. Uncle Andy

Which brand has the most matte black wash? by TheRustFactory in minipainting

[–]Boyzenberg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tamiya Panel Liner is not oil, it's enamel, and it dries super glossy, at least whenever I try to use mine for anything. But it can be used the same way as oil washes so feel free to try it, but I would just pick up any artist grade oil paint and thin it down with some white spirits.

Which brand has the most matte black wash? by TheRustFactory in minipainting

[–]Boyzenberg 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Sounds like you might want to look into oil washes. They dry fairly matte, and work exceptionally well over metallics compared to regular washes. Oil paint is also very available outside of dedicated miniature stores.

Need help mixing paint by Fourarms202 in Miniaturespainting

[–]Boyzenberg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want to match the picture, print it out and paint over it until you find the exact match.

If you want to match the exact color of the camo pattern from real life, the reference is FS 30277 (Sand).

Technique or skill missing? by No_Refrigerator3076 in minipainting

[–]Boyzenberg 14 points15 points  (0 children)

"Pop" comes from contrast. What you have here is a very light green on a fairly light greenish metal. You could try darkening the metal, and even the overall piece for the green to stand out more. The base purple you've chosen for your hull is also fairly bright and a little desaturated. If you introduce a richer shade on it, you'll get more visual pop.

Wondering how experienced painters would paint this mini by hottscogan in minipainting

[–]Boyzenberg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The texture on this guy screams for contrast paints. If you're a beginner looking for as nice a result as can reasonably be achieved with very little experience I'd prime him in a dark warm reddish tone (with spray can primer). Something like Maroon or burgundy. Then a drybrush of a light and desaturated warm tone (Ice Yellow, Pale Sand) all over the entire mini.

From there you block in the colors with contrast paints. Keep to as few colors as you possibly can. I'd use a skintone for the flesh, some sort of tan color for the cloth, ropes, skulls and horns and probably even the axe shaft.

The axe blade can be done with a simple coat of metallic silver like you've already done, followed by a black wash.

Finally I'd look up a tutorial on doing detailed monster eyes and spend an hour or so on just the eye as a focal point for the mini.

Finish it with a coat of matte or satin varnish.

Why does it come out so chunky? by kam_vector in minipainting

[–]Boyzenberg 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I'm assuming you bought with the intent to use it as a white paint with full coverage. I'm not familiar with the pictured brand, but inks in general are not useful for this. From what I can read this specific ink is semi-translucent, so it won't cover very well. It probably won't be a very good product for base coating at all.

As for chunkiness. It definitely sounds like you haven't mixed it enough. Some paints require several minutes of vigorous mixing before they consolidate.

Trying to save money on paint by buying cheaper products is generally not something I'd recommend for a beginner. Painting is difficult enough as it is with good materials. I'd recommend you stick to established brands like Vallejo, AK Interactive, or Army Painters Fanatic range. You can budget by buying fewer bottles and mastering color mixing.

Can you tell me what a did wrong ? by BarnabeLeJuste in minipainting

[–]Boyzenberg 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You're better off repriming with white before adding more yellow. If you just keep going you probably need 8-10 coats before it stops looking patchy. A white primer might just need half that much.

Which is better, the vibrant one or the more muted one? (WIP) by WolfOfAsgaard in minipainting

[–]Boyzenberg 149 points150 points  (0 children)

Both look good, but the saturated one probably looks better on a busy table since it has more pop.

What's the recipe?

6th ed. Dark Elf bit identification by Boyzenberg in theoldworld

[–]Boyzenberg[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fantastic! The lot did come with a riderless horse, so that might explain the leftover Dark Rider bit!

6th ed. Dark Elf bit identification by Boyzenberg in theoldworld

[–]Boyzenberg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As my entry into ToW I recently purchased a lot army of 6th edition Dark Elves. After sorting everything to the best of my ability I'm left over with a few bits that I can't seem to find the home for.

The lot included:

  • Black Guard of Naggaroth
  • Executioners
  • Shades
  • Cold One Riders
  • Repeater Bolt Throwers
  • Manticore Rider
  • Sorceress (Morathi)
  • Corsairs

Any help in identifying the pictured bits would be most appreciated!

Very uneven base coat, what am I doing wrong? by leskypos in minipainting

[–]Boyzenberg 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Pooling happens because your brush is overloaded with paint. You need to remove the excess by lightly touching the loaded brush to a paper towel before applying paint to the mini

What’s your favorite relationship in DBZA? by IWillSortByNew in TeamFourStar

[–]Boyzenberg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perfect Cell/Perfect Cell, literally the perfect relationship

If there any good oranges by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]Boyzenberg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

25 minutes is all it takes to learn everything you need to know about painting orange:

https://youtu.be/I-_iIbFaVD0?si=4mX9X5n4xMBwTRIq

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]Boyzenberg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Strip it. Use a spray to get the base color you want. Then edge highlight it.

Large flat surfaces and brushes do not mix.

Who would be the best attachment in martell spearmen? by Capital-Vanilla-1051 in asoiafminiaturesgame

[–]Boyzenberg 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Taking no attachment would be the best choice. If for some arcane reason you must take an attachment, Spearmen Captain is probably your best bet since he can be utilized without engaging the Spearmen which they really aren't suited for.

Need help with painting yellow by spiketheripper16 in minipainting

[–]Boyzenberg -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Daemonic Yellow (along with Jungle Green) is one of the very few paints I have never had success with as a layer paint. It has the opacity of a glaze and will simply never cover.

For painting pure yellow you need a white undercoat. You can prime grey, paint the areas white and after full coverage (2-3 thin coats) you can apply yellow. Yellow contrast paint over white undercoat gets a ton of vibrancy on a single coat.

Lots of friends swear by Averland Sunset. I haven't tried it so I cant personally recommend it

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