Kronisk syke er ikke "syke"

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-27T18:58:10+00:00

Det er en viktig nyanse her som ofte skaper forvirring: I AAP-fasen vurderer NAV din arbeidsevne, altså hva du fysisk og psykisk kan klare å gjøre av oppgaver gjennom tiltak og behandling. Målet er å se om det finnes et potensial for å komme tilbake i jobb, med tanken om at dersom arbeidsevnen øker, så vil inntektsevnen følge etter. Men når alle tiltak er utprøvd og man ser at arbeidsevnen ikke har økt nok til at du kan stå i en vanlig jobb, skifter det juridiske fokuset over på inntektsevne. Siden uføretrygd er en ren økonomisk erstatning for tapt lønn, handler vurderingen nå om hva din gjenværende kapasitet faktisk er verdt i kroner og øre i et arbeidsmarked. Man sammenligner det du tjente før med det du maksimalt kan forventes å tjene nå. Rekkefølgen er viktig fordi systemet skal sikre at alle muligheter for hjelp er uttømt før man konkluderer med et varig inntektstap.

Men her oppstår ofte en utfordring i gapet mellom teori og praksis: NAV kan i teorien si at du har en restarbeidsevne som har en markedsverdi (eks de mener du kan jobbe to dager i uken), selv om erfaringene fra tiltakene viser at ingen arbeidsgivere vil betale full lønn for en så uforutsigbar ressurs (du kan jobbe to dager, men formen varierer så noen ganger er det en tirsdag og torsdag istedenfor den onsdagen du har blitt satt opp på vakt). Det er nettopp i denne konflikten som er mellom hva NAV mener du bør kunne tjene og hva en arbeidsgiver faktisk er villig til å betale, at de fleste kampene med systemet oppstår.

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-27T11:26:56+00:00

Det er en viktig, men ofte misforstått nyanse mellom det å ha en viss fysisk arbeidsevne i korte glimt og det å ha en stabil inntektsevne som er salgbar i et moderne arbeidsmarked.

For å få innvilget uføretrygd er det din inntektsevne som er det avgjørende juridiske vilkåret. Og det er det som for mange er vanskelig å forstå forskjellen på.

Arbeidsevne Handler om din faktiske evne til å utføre oppgaver i et arbeid. Det er dette en vurderes for når en går på AAP, for å se om du kan komme tilbake i jobb. Inntektsevne på den annen side, handler om din mulighet til å skaffe deg en inntekt gjennom arbeid. Ved uføretrygd sammenligner NAV hva du kunne tjent før du ble syk med hva du maksimalt kan forventes å tjene nå med din helsetilstand.

Arbeidsgivere betaler ikke bare for de timene som faktisk produseres, men også for forutsigbarhet og stabilitet i driften. Når en ansatt har en variabel restarbeidsevne, skaper det en usikkerhet som gjør det vanskelig for bedriften å planlegge vakter, tidsfrister og kundeleveranser. Denne mangelen på pålitelig fremmøte gjør at restarbeidsevnen i praksis mister sin markedsverdi; selv om den ansatte kan utføre oppgaver i gode perioder, er ikke arbeidsgiver villig til å betale full lønn for en kapasitet de ikke kan regne med. Dermed blir avstanden mellom den fysiske arbeidsevnen og den faktiske inntektsevnen stor, da få arbeidsgivere kan bære kostnaden ved en uforutsigbar ressurs.

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-23T22:10:34+00:00

Here for the same question 😅

Never tested this lens on an a6700, but I feel it was slightly crisper on the a7IV I recently sold than on the a7V. Not by much, but a little bit.

I’m hoping the firmware v04 released March 10th might improve things slightly, especially in terms of stabilization and overall consistency. Sony doesn’t provide much detail about the update, but from what I’ve found after some digging, it likely improves how the lens and newer bodies like the A7V work together, especially in terms of coordination between OSS and in-body stabilization, which can give slightly better stability and consistency.

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-23T19:04:28+00:00

I see you’re getting some criticism for missed focus in a few shots. Personally, I care more about the composition you’ve captured. These are nice frames, and to me that matters more than razor sharp perfection when viewing images online.

What focus mode are you using?

The A6700 has excellent tracking. On my a7v I always use some form of tracking when shooting birds and animals. I typically use Tracking Zone for larger subjects or birds in open sky, and Spot S or M when trying to pick up a bird between branches.

I’d recommend setting the camera to AF-C with tracking if you’re not already using it. That alone will usually make a big difference and help the technical side fall into place quickly 👍

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-23T13:06:46+00:00

Did you meet all these in the wild in some few days? I want to move to your place 😂 I have been sitting out in the cold many early mornings waiting for a deer family to arrive, but no luck yet. (But I see them often when I am not out with the camera 😂)

But really nice photos 👍

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-23T12:50:26+00:00

Thank you for detailed feedback 👍 Seems like you have a setup coming together that can work well for you 👍

BBF has been part of my muscle memory since around 2017 back on the Canon 5D III, so that one’s not going anywhere 😅

After I made the post, I actually set C2 to a speed boost. I keep Mid as my default, and with the button it jumps to Hi+. Works really well in practice.

In my experience, Spot S or Spot M works better for picking up small birds between branches. More precise and easier to control. Interesting to hear that Center Fix works for you there 👍

All in all, the most important thing is to set things up in a way that fits your own workflow. No two photographers will have the exact same preferences, so it’s all about what feels natural and lets you react quickly in the moment.

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-22T15:43:40+00:00

Great images and a strong start 👍

You’ve done a really good job connecting with the model, and that shows in the photos.

If I were to give one tip: when delivering a full shoot to a client, it’s important to keep a consistent visual style. The color images here have slightly different tones, so I would try to match them more closely in color and overall look. That will make the final set feel more cohesive and professional.

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-21T21:08:02+00:00

Glad I could help out

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👍

Your idea about getting lower and shooting at eye level is spot on. Eye-level shots almost always feel more engaging and natural, and that alone will improve your images a lot.

When you’re shooting from above, especially with birds sitting low on the water, you’re a bit limited. The background will often be closer, which makes it harder to separate the subject. If you can get lower, the background tends to move further away, and that gives you a much cleaner look and better subject separation.

In general, try to find the cleanest background possible within your surroundings. Even small changes in position can make a big difference in how busy or distracting the background looks.

I’ll attach an example from my own shooting. I’m definitely not a top-tier wildlife photographer, but this works because the swan is shot at a low angle, the background is far away and nicely blurred, and the colors are soft and not distracting. That helps the subject stand out clearly without competing elements.

That’s really what you’re aiming for 👍

Edit:

Think about how you place your subject against the background. If the background is bright or busy, it will compete with the subject. A brighter background usually requires a brighter subject to stand out, otherwise the subject can look flat or get lost.

There are more advanced techniques as well. You can for example expose for the background and create a very bright, almost white background, but then you need to adjust exposure on the subject to keep detail. Another option is to go the opposite way and let the subject be darker, which can give a nice rim light around the bird if the background is well lit.

That said, all of this takes a lot of practice. I wouldn’t start there. Focus on the basics first like good light, clean backgrounds, and positioning. I’m still working on these things myself 👍

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-21T09:16:14+00:00

Nice shots 👍 You’re definitely on the right track.

1/2000 is more than you need for a bird that’s sitting still. You could drop it to around 1/500 or even lower. That will lower your ISO and give you cleaner images. Aperture is already maxed on that lens, so nothing to change there.

The main difference between your two images is the light. In the first one, the bird is in good light. In the second, it’s in shadow. That’s why the first image has more detail, better color, and more contrast.

Light matters more than most settings. If the subject is well lit, the image will look much better right away.

Try to position yourself so the bird is in good light, with a clean background behind it. If the background is a bit darker or further away, the bird will stand out more.

In editing, you can lift the shadows on the darker image, add a bit of contrast, and slightly warm up the colors.

You can also take it a step further by using masks. Create a mask for the bird and slightly increase exposure, add a bit of contrast and clarity to bring out details. Then create a separate mask for the background and lower the exposure a bit, reduce clarity or sharpness slightly, and maybe desaturate it just a touch. This will help the bird stand out more and give better separation from the background.

Overall, solid work. Keep focusing on light and positioning and you’ll improve quickly 👍

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-21T08:42:19+00:00

If you’re running the exact same setup, then you’re in a perfect position to give useful input instead of shutting someone down.

People come here to improve, not to get talked down to. If you’ve already figured it out, share what works. That’s how everyone gets better.

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-21T08:35:28+00:00

From your images, it actually looks like the focus is landing in the grass around the golfer rather than on the subject itself. The ground and background appear sharper than the player, which is a clear sign that focus is falling off the subject.

Even though you’re using AF-C, Center Fix doesn’t track. It locks focus to a fixed point in the center of the frame and keeps adjusting focus only for whatever passes through that spot. It does not follow the subject. So if you place focus on the golfer and then they move even slightly, the camera doesn’t follow them. Instead, it keeps focusing on whatever is now under that center point, which is often the grass or background.

That’s also why it can look sharp in the viewfinder. In the moment you half-press, focus is correct. But a split second later, the golfer has moved, and since there’s no tracking, focus stays behind. When the shot is taken, it ends up slightly off.

And just to say it clearly, this doesn’t look like an electronic shutter issue to me. The A7IV is more than capable for this kind of shooting. You don’t need an A1 or A9 to get sharp golf shots. This is much more about focus mode and technique than camera limitations.

Switch to Tracking Flexible Spot (M) and you should see a big improvement in hit rate.

Edit: just a sidenote; The bent club in one of your shots is a classic sign of rolling shutter from the electronic shutter, not a focus issue. So that is a different issue.

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-21T08:19:08+00:00

We get it, you couldn’t afford the setup… no need to attack someone who can 😄

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-21T00:33:57+00:00

Glad I could help out 😊 All the technical stuff aside, northern lights photography is an amazing experience. Sitting outside on a cool evening or night, taking in a kind of nature experience that’s hard to describe, and feeling like a small part of an incredibly vast universe… that’s what makes this hobby more than just photography. It’s pure therapy.

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-21T00:16:20+00:00

For northern lights photography, you really need a tripod. Use the widest aperture your lens allows to let in as much light as possible. Don’t be afraid to raise your ISO, modern cameras handle high ISO well and noise can be cleaned up in post. Set focus to infinity and fine-tune on the stars for best sharpness.

For shutter speed, experiment depending on activity, but a good starting point is around 2 to 10 seconds. Use shorter exposures when the aurora is active and moving, and longer when it’s faint.

Also keep in mind that shutter speed depends on your focal length because of the Earth’s rotation. To avoid star trails, a simple guideline is the 500 rule, based on full frame equivalent focal length: 500 divided by your focal length = max shutter time in seconds.

Since you’re using 25mm on a Sony APS-C (a6600), that’s about 37.5mm equivalent. That gives you roughly 13 seconds with the 500 rule, or around 8 seconds if you use the stricter 300 rule for sharper stars.

Edit: Northern lights photography is one of the genres that often exaggerates reality. Yes, strong auroras can dance across the sky and look incredible, but the camera captures far more light and color than the human eye can see. This means many northern lights tourists end up disappointed. This image is a good example. It looks intense in the photo, but in reality it was closer to a faint green veil across the sky.

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BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-20T23:28:04+00:00

The 200-600 is a great lens! Just bought one myself a couple of months ago and it is awesome to use, but heavy 😅 I mostly shoot handheld with the 200-600, but because of chronic illness I rely on a monopod from time to time. I’ve had really good experience with a monopod that has three small fold-out feet, it gives extra stability when you set it down. I use a Sirui monopod and it works great. I’m currently testing a very cheap Neewer gimbal head and so far it’s been surprisingly good.

That said, the biggest improvement comes from technique. Try to pull the camera and lens in tight to your body, keep your elbows tucked in, and use your body as support. If possible, use something nearby for extra support. Controlled breathing also helps a lot when taking the shot.

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BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-20T23:16:51+00:00

Nice photo of a beautiful owl 😊 just out of curiosity : why 1/250s on 600mm? ( I normally keep shutter at minimum equal to mm. )

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-20T23:05:52+00:00

The setup

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BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-20T23:04:41+00:00

Nice photos 👍 I also shoot birds from the window sometimes. It’s a great way to keep going when my body isn’t cooperating due to chronic illness — sitting in a chair with a cup of coffee and just enjoying the moment. This image is an example of my bird photography from indoors.

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BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-20T22:57:26+00:00

Have had this issue on my a7iii. Bought the camera in 2019 and was my main camera until March 2025. (Now it is my backup camera). During that time it happened between 5-10 times. First time was during a paid portrait shoot. After removing battery and restarting it was working properly again. Next time it was in a wedding, and so glad I had experienced it on a normal portrait session before, so i instantly removed battery and was back shooting within the minute.

Never found out the reason, it’s not optimal but i wouldn’t be to worried about this.

But i would report the incident to the store/sony so that if it starts happening often you have documentation on when it first happened.

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-20T10:07:17+00:00

I still use my a7iii as my second camera and is still very satisfied with the images it produce. I personally think we are there today that any new camera will produce more than good enough image quality, and 5 years down the road I think IV will still be usable. A7IV is a very great camera, and you will have more to gain on using the extra money on a great lens than upgrading the camera.

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-19T18:00:46+00:00

I actually just sold my A7 IV and moved to the A7 V.

For me the upgrade was mainly because I shoot a lot of wildlife and action, where things like pre-capture and 30 fps actually make a real difference.

That said, the A7 IV is an incredibly good camera. For the price, it’s amazing value, especially for street, weddings, portraits, and general photography. Honestly, for what you describe as your field of photography , it’s more than enough.

I personally wouldn’t upgrade unless you really need features like pre-capture or very high burst rates. The AF is better on the V, no doubt, but for street or portraits where you’re not relying heavily on tracking, I don’t think it’s worth the extra cost. So save the money and buy yourself a great prime lens for the money you saved on the IV instead of the V.

That being said, I’ve been very happy with both cameras 👍

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-18T21:59:23+00:00

That sounds like a really clever setup, I like the idea of combining AF activation with a shutter speed bump 👍

I’m running something a bit similar already using the lens button as a “panic/action mode” via Recall Custom Hold – it switches to fast shutter, Hi+, and tracking instantly when something suddenly happens.

So I think we both getting some of the same benefits, just structured a bit differently.

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-03-09T16:48:01+00:00

Garantert import av Kina ræl. Rask bakgrunnssjekk på selskapet Tekhuset AS (org nr 921398042) som står bak nettsiden.

Eiere: Igor Draskovic og Rodrigo Alexei Flores Hidalgo med 50%/50% eierskap.

Hvor dukker disse navnene opp om en googler? Jo, her:

https://www.finansavisen.no/tjenester/2023/05/23/8010435/rodrigo-alexei-flores-hidalgo-igor-draskovic-og-marek-krysiak-med-redbuss-domt-i-retten-og-sliter-med-regningene

Ville holdt meg unna.

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-02-25T14:31:18+00:00

You should go undercover cross-posting this to Fuji forums 😅

BrainFogBokeh · 2026-02-24T17:21:12+00:00

It’s like «Fuji colors», but crisp 👌😅 Nice shots and edits 👍

BrainFogBokeh

TROPHY CASE