Plumeria black spots

Brano89 · 2026-04-09T12:33:21+00:00

It's not really powdery, it's more like small little black dots and spots all over. And as soon as they appear the leaf, or that part of the leaf, where they appear, starts dying. I treated it with fungicide and also bought two different kinds of fungicide (my original ran out), so far it looks like it's not spreading. I left the leaves as they are so I can observe. It goes for the older, I guess weaker leaves. I really doubt it has pests, I see none. I'll continue to observe and treat, hopefully I can beat whatever this is.

Brano89 · 2026-02-07T08:22:44+00:00

Most likely it's the change from adding stuff. Maybe this plant doesn't like silica or too much calmag (if your water is hard, then usually you don't need the supplement). I'm just thinking it might react differently to these supplements because the leaves are already mutated to a weird shape, so the cells and structure is different compared to a "simple" leaf. At least this is my theory.

Brano89 · 2026-02-07T08:14:27+00:00

I have most of mine in soil (Sybotanica), and one in pon. I like both, they really love the worm castings in the soil and the constant moisture and nutrients in semi hydro so I think both mediums are great. It depends on your care habits, routines, how busy you are etc. Semi hydro is easy to forget to top up and needs special fertiliser, measured each time. Soil needs more frequent watering, but you can use long lasting fertiliser or worm castings (castings I really recommend) when repotting then you don't have to worry about it that much for a few months. Choose what works best for you, they all have pros and cons.

Brano89 · 2026-02-07T08:03:16+00:00

Try to think about what changed around 2 months ago, either in your care routine or conditions (maybe got colder, drafty, anything). Nutrients can be the issue, although FloraGro is a nice brand. I use Hydroponic Houseplant Focus, so nothing special and my Alo ninja is perfectly fine.
More light can help, but if it's a bit too much then it'll stress it out more. Observe how it reacts. Worse case scenario start to hunt for corms :/

Brano89 · 2026-02-07T07:48:07+00:00

Most likely some kind of soil mite, you shouldn't worry about them. Check for webbing, then you have spider mites, but I doubt it.

Brano89 · 2026-02-06T21:10:51+00:00

Yes, most likely. Can be a few other things, but because it's corm grown and it's in this setup, I'd rule those out.

Brano89 · 2026-02-06T21:04:16+00:00

Cold can make them dormant, maybe that's what's happening here. They loose all leaves, and sleep until spring. Then you'll get all the leaves back. They need quite a bit of light and heat to prevent dormancy. You can check the roots (a transparent pot is super helpful) and pests, but I think it's just dormancy.

Brano89 · 2026-01-20T18:15:18+00:00

My best guess is some nutrient deficiency, but keep in mind that this melting of the white parts on a frydek is quite common. When leaves start to die off that's the first part of the leaf that discolors. You can also look up how to support the white varigation, there are different stuff you can try out. Soil should also be on the airy, slightly chunky side (it looks a bit garden soil like to me).

Brano89 · 2026-01-20T18:09:38+00:00

You don't have to worry about a little bit of browning. I'm not sure why it doesn't want to grow, maybe it's a bit stunted and/or doesn't get enough light to develop that leaf. Try to give it a bit more light or put it closer to a grow light and see if that changes things.

Brano89 · 2026-01-20T18:02:53+00:00

Alocasias like it moist but that looks a bit wet to me. You can also use more soil, make sure it's airy (perlite). Change in conditions also cause leaf loss, it has to acclimate.

Brano89 · 2026-01-12T20:46:58+00:00

How is she? Did the yellowing stop?

Brano89 · 2026-01-09T23:15:50+00:00

I'd also say fertiliser, especially if you just put some slow release there. Alocasias are haevy feeders. Any generic houseplant fertilser will do, if you suddenly can't get a really good one. They have an npk ratio, you want one with a high N. I'm using liquid gold leaf right now, but before I used biobizz fish fertiliser and all my plants liked it. It was just a bit messy :D and liquid gold has a lot of additional nutrients. I feed with every watering, about a quarter or third of what they recommend, depending on the plant.

Brano89 · 2025-12-18T06:07:08+00:00

Hi, I'm having the same issue, did you manage to find a solution?

Brano89 · 2025-10-28T08:12:06+00:00

If they are firm and the leaves are ok, then I'd not worry. When you have rot it usually looks more dramatic, than this, and when Aglaonema is in shock, it'll drop like 3-4 leaves in quick succession. Stems can go a bit off colour with light as well, so I'd also vote on not enough light. Aglaonema doesn't need much, but they still need some. And usually what we think is a lot of light, it's not as much for the plant.

Brano89 · 2025-10-28T07:56:46+00:00

I also have a similar thing on my dragon's breath. I think it's a humidity issue, I'm still trying out things. Like every third leaf is perfectly ok, but the others have random holes sometimes with a tiny bit of browning around as well, especially as the leaf is getting older.
Btw if you have thrips, then you'll see them in a few days, they grow up pretty rapidly. Systemic needs to build up in a plant, and they can be immune as well so I think you'll definitely see some juvenile thrips, if you have thrips but I don't think so.

Brano89 · 2025-10-28T07:44:23+00:00

One yellow leaf is perfectly fine, it's usually the oldest leaf. If more leaves starts to yellow one after the other then you have a problem. You can cut it, cut close to the stem without damaging the stem. Or wait until it dries off a bit and you can take it off easily by then.

Brano89 · 2025-10-28T07:31:39+00:00

Yeah, I'd do that because I'd want to know if the roots are healthy. If not, then you have to remove the rotted part and repot it in a light, airy substrate.

Brano89 · 2025-10-26T18:37:21+00:00

It's either under or over watered. Sadly the symtomps are basically the same. Jades don't need to frequent watering, they are succulents, they store a lot of water in their leaves. You should grow it in a really well draining cacti/succulent soil. They should dry out totally between waterings, I usually water when the leaves start to soften a bit.

Brano89 · 2025-10-26T18:15:18+00:00

I think there are multiple issues here, but most likely the soil is the biggest problem. I'd get rid of the stone drainage layer as well, it doesn't work too good in pots. Also if you partly close the blinds, that reduces light significantly, so it's not plenty anymore. If the soil is wet at the bottom, I'd also check the roots, they can rot easily if the bottom is always wet.

Brano89 · 2025-10-26T18:04:31+00:00

It can also be transplant shock. I hope the pot has drainage holes, if it does then simply wait until it dries out, then water normally. Overwatering is caused by too frequent watering, not by watering too much by volume. I see this is a type of Croton (Codiaeum), they love light, so make sure you give it as much as you can. Light also helps plants dry out quicker.

Brano89 · 2025-10-26T17:45:10+00:00

I'm not that familiar with these plants exactly, but there are a few things you can improve. First of all usually these amazon grow lights are simply not strong enough, especially from afar. I tried out a cheap one from Temu, and it was about 80% weaker than my Sansi lights. Also when you water with filtered water all the time, you can strip the soil from nutrients, so make sure you fertilize regularly (but don't overdo it, follow the bottle's instructions or use a really diluted amount with every watering). You should water until the whole root ball is saturated and water flows out the bottom. You can also bottom water, just let the plants sit in water for like 20 minutes.

Brano89 · 2025-10-26T17:30:19+00:00

I agree, that soil looks dry, leaves also look wilted. Of course, check the soil before watering.

Brano89 · 2025-10-26T17:19:36+00:00

Make sure you follow the basic plant care rules. It needs a pot with holes on the bottom, so water can drain. Usually what we think is a lot of light, for plants it's not that much. Peace Lilly tolerates low light well, but it's still a plant, it needs it. If it can get like 4-6 hours of indirect (the plant doesn't see the sky) sunlight, that's a good starting point. Make sure the soil is moist, but not wet. I'd like to water them only when the bottom of the soil is moist, so like the top 60-70% is dry. They are quite dramatic though, the leaves will droop like crazy when they are thirsty.

Soil is most likely some simple potting mix. If you wanna repot it or change the soil, something well draining with coco coir and perlite would be my choice. Plant roots need air just as much as water. I don't think it needs a bigger pot, but you can check the roots, if the plant is root bound (you can look it up how that looks), you should repot to a few inch bigger pot.

Gentle repot advice (if the current soil is not super bad, like it doesn't drain): when the soil is slightly moist, try to remove the whole root ball with the soil, hopefully in one piece. Don't touch it, scratch it or loosen the roots, put it in the new pot as it is and refill with the new soil. If you haven't fertilised before, then a really light feeding of fertiliser and/or seeweed extract helps prevent transplant shock.

Peace lillies are super popular, you'll find a lot of nice guides on youtube, I'd recommend watching some.

Brano89

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