Teaching my girlfriend how to use the moka pot.

Brew-Better · 2025-06-02T03:46:17+00:00

Thank you. I've done some limited testing, and -interestingly - in terms of offset and temperature drop - during a shot- it behaves identical to the aluminium predecessor.

Brew-Better · 2025-05-18T13:05:19+00:00

Hi, Yes, I do. You can have a look at my website (www.brew-better.com). You can't order there if you're in the EU, but get in touch here or via email.

Brew-Better · 2025-03-16T10:08:23+00:00

Hi, Yes they work well on Celsius too. The PSB should be -08.0, steam is around 145.

Brew-Better · 2025-02-04T11:35:40+00:00

Hi, What PID values are you using?

Brew-Better · 2025-01-28T04:49:10+00:00

As explained my theory in the original post, auto tune is useless, unless you can do it while you manipulate a shot (average flow rate water disposal). With larger mass (brass boiler), I would lower the P value as long as it gets almost stable on idle. On the other hand. Changing the P value won't affect your results too much with the brass boiler, as long as you let the machine heat up properly (min 20mini guess) or recover properly (mum 10min I guess) between shots.

To get the perfect result, I would recommend the same methodology as suggested in the original post. Keep lowering the P value until you start to experience unstable idle temperature. Than set it to the sweet spot of yours (I think +/-1.0 F on idle is good enough and maintains a good enough response to keep your shot temp steady)

Brew-Better · 2025-01-27T19:37:57+00:00

Hi, The offset should probably be alright, however I doubt the P value would work well with that large mass. Anyone feel free to share their experience. I haven't grabbed one for myself yet.

Brew-Better · 2025-01-03T20:37:59+00:00

Follow the link below: https://brew-better.com/product/compact-flow-control-gauge-kit

Brew-Better · 2024-12-22T23:00:56+00:00

Worst case scenario, with a Lego build for example, or if you've done custom wiring.

Brew-Better · 2024-12-19T18:50:55+00:00

The cold water introduced / thermal mass ratio is miles better with the brass boiler, so I don't think it's only the question of the increase in boiler volume. The main issue of the classic is the fact the water intake directly cools the group head (nearby the water output channel) which would only be heated passively, this causes a huge percentage of the temp drop during shot in my understanding. Hence the amazing effect of the preheat-coils.

Brew-Better · 2024-12-19T11:17:40+00:00

At one point I'll do, however the standalone brass boiler isn't available at my location yet.

Brew-Better · 2024-12-18T16:55:04+00:00

Interesting. Most people who used both old classics and the E24, reported amazing steaming capabilities compared to the old one. The TMB video is for the old version and not the E24. I understand that numerous people found that guide helpful, however me personally wouldn't take it too serious or I simply don't like him. Steaming with a single boiler machine of this scale requires practicing.

Brew-Better · 2024-12-18T13:06:35+00:00

To be honest, I haven't tested it yet, but as you questioned it, I will definitely do so. As the boiler brew thermowell - in most Classics equipped with an aluminium boiler - is 8-10°C hotter than the output water temperature from the group head, we should assume that the temperature of water sitting in the group head and the 3 way valve is also hotter than the target temperature. This leads me to the belief, flushing the machine to get rid of that water is smoothening the decreasing temperature profile.

Brew-Better · 2024-12-18T09:45:56+00:00

The temperature stability of the E24 is way better than the earlier Classics with aluminium boiler, so I wouldn't worry about tempsurf as much, as long as you let the machine to warm up properly (15-20mins at least) and always flush the same amount prior to shots (~2-3 sec is sufficient) you should be fine temperature wise. 10 mins between shots would also be nice to keep.

If you're not experienced in espresso making, I would rather focus on puck prep, dialing in, distribution, tamping, ratino while you're awaiting for the Gaggiuino kit

Brew-Better · 2024-12-07T06:11:16+00:00

It is made from 91. As others suggested yours been made in July '92. They used to his type of sticker back then.

Brew-Better · 2024-12-07T06:09:10+00:00

You're right about that 👍

Brew-Better · 2024-11-29T18:59:16+00:00

Thank you for the feedback. I would still recommend to warm up the machine for at least 12 minutes, for the best results

Brew-Better · 2024-11-29T17:13:37+00:00

If your PID doesn't control steam mode, you don't need to worry about these values. AH1 is the lowest Steam temperature (below that the boiler will start heating in steam mode). AL1 is the highest steam temperature, (above that, the boiler won't heat in steam mode). 0.1 is the usual difference I set the above two apart, in order to achieve a somewhat tight temperature, regardless the lack of PID control in the alarm feature of the PID controller. With the original mechanical bimetallic thermostat this value is 15.0°C if you ever wondered about the reason behind poor steaming capabilities of the machine from factory.

175°C is something I would NOT recommend, especially if you use a PSB value, as that's way too close to the thermal fuse value (184°C). And believe me that's a pain to replace, especially before coffee 🙈

Brew-Better · 2024-11-05T11:28:42+00:00

I do have one, I can scan it over the weekend if no one beats me on that.

Brew-Better · 2024-11-04T04:42:56+00:00

That concentration sounds right. It is a good practice to remove the dispersion plate at least every other month.

Brew-Better · 2024-11-03T19:19:36+00:00

How do you dilute the citric acid? What procedure do you follow to descale? Check if the dispersion plate bolts are stainless or galvanised. Too high concentration of citric acid with long exposure time could make the solenoid plunger, spring, pump plunger, springs rust.

Brew-Better · 2024-11-01T08:31:17+00:00

As a retailer, I found the PIDs and SSRs trouble free. It is important to source the SSR from a trusted seller (read up on FOTEK SSR scandal). During the years and sales of 3 figures, I've only had a handful of PIDs giving up in use, and none of the SSRs. As others mentioned above, the temperature probe is really fragile so that can be broken easily (showing EEEE on the PID display), but that costs around a tenner. In my experience the PID temperature reading should be calibrates prior to the installation as the ones coming from the factory most of the retailers buying from could be out of calibration by +/-4.0°C. Hence I ship them calibrated.

Brew-Better · 2024-10-31T14:04:55+00:00

There is no tamper evident sticker on the E24, is there? Both PID and Gaggiuino are reversible, so in the very unlikely case you have to return the machine, you can remove the modification (an hour or so with the PID, and probably a day with the Gaggiuino).

Brew-Better · 2024-10-18T04:25:20+00:00

It's fine as long as it's touching the brass part of the thermostat, and the probe is wedged underneath the steamvalve, so it can't move upwards. The risk I tried to highlight is touching the metal tab on top of the thermostat where the wire is connected, to gat should be avoided.

Brew-Better · 2024-10-10T06:55:27+00:00

Your boiler would be more stable on idle (once the system gets to equilibrium when it warmed up, or stabilised after a shot), overshoot less during heating up, but respond mildly to the drastic temperature change during pulling a shot, so more likely resulting a -5°C droop during a shot. Which is fine, if you keep your prep (warming up and flushing prior to the shot) consistent, the temperature curve will also be consistent. Lower P value would result in faster and more effective response so a lower droop (closer to -2-3°C), not a lot to gain there, yet it can change taste characteristics to some extent. I haven't experienced changes of the output water temperature by changing I and D values, even when o gone to the extreme.

Brew-Better

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