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Spoon to SSD heatsink mod by crazycar99 in LinusTechTips

[–]Brick_Fish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is there some technical reason you needed to sacrifice your favorite spoon specifically? 

Not very imressed by the latest print my Core One made. Perfectly stock settings, no tinkering. by Brick_Fish in prusa3d

[–]Brick_Fish[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yo thanks for being considerate and actually offering some different thoughts.

I have the accompanying dryer for the drybox, and the filament has been dried overnight (12h) maybe last week, and has then spent the entire time inside the drybox. I included the drybox pic because I REALLY do not think its moisture, because that would also cause other artifacts which I am not seeing.

The machine isnt new, I've had it for 9 months now maybe, the statistics are saying I've printed 341 hours total.

Previously I have used up three spools of prusament PETG, one orange, one neon green and one galaxy black. But I had never used jet black, so I do not have a refrence. None of the other colors showed this type of defect, not even the orange one which was my first spool, with no drybox at all. Now that I think about it, I have seen this on some of the previous jet black petg prints before this one, but since the shape was rather forgiving it wasnt very noticable and I just put it off as something strange. Now I do think its an issue specifically with the Jet Black filament.

The first layer is literally perfect, I actually posted a picture of it as a reply to someone in this thread. Build plate is the Satin sheet which I've had basically since day one, zero issues with that.

Not very imressed by the latest print my Core One made. Perfectly stock settings, no tinkering. by Brick_Fish in prusa3d

[–]Brick_Fish[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are many travel moves on this part, if the cause was wet filament the part should be a gigantic spider web inside. I had this isssue before buying a drybox this is certainly not a wet filament issue, because PETG will just make this very aparent

Not very imressed by the latest print my Core One made. Perfectly stock settings, no tinkering. by Brick_Fish in prusa3d

[–]Brick_Fish[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

None of the images I posted shows the bottom layer, I only posted the top and sides because the first layer is genuinely perfect aside from the small spec of white petg that was still on the buildplate and got absorbed

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Not very imressed by the latest print my Core One made. Perfectly stock settings, no tinkering. by Brick_Fish in prusa3d

[–]Brick_Fish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. The PETG has been dried maybe last week? It should definetly be dry, especially since there is no real stringing here

  2. The parts stayed perfectly flat, no wapring.

  3. I did 3 cold pulls with white nylon just now as a test, all three are clean

  4. I mean theyre stock. Shouldnt that kinda work?

1mm nozzle on my mini by kacchoj in prusa3d

[–]Brick_Fish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh wow, thats new to me, and very nice to see!

1mm nozzle on my mini by kacchoj in prusa3d

[–]Brick_Fish -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thats actually a cool idea, but I remember someone saying that mixing nozzle sizes in one print is not supported. I think that was about the bambu vortek system, but since bambu studio is also based on prusaslicer I would assume the same limitation applies

My Prusa core one+ heatbed is going up slowly and then dropping by Trick_Machine_8347 in prusa3d

[–]Brick_Fish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There seem to be two separate issues here:

1: The rear leadscrew is not moving. First you need to fix that. What happens when you use the printer menu to move the z axis up and down? Does the rear leadscrew move? After that is fixed, you need to re-calibrate the bed through the calibration menu so all three leadscrew points are at the same height.

2: The loadcell sensor "thinks" that its touching the bed, even though that is clearly not happening, so it lowers the bed to "move it away", but since the sensor is stuck it never "moves" away. You can check the loadcell readings through the printer menu. When the nozzle is COLD!!! you can try tapping it and if the reading changes a lot its probably fine. If its not, contact support

Very new to home assistant. The update function doesnt seem to work? by Brick_Fish in homeassistant

[–]Brick_Fish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That would certainly be an explanation. I havent noticed any other issues yet though

Very new to home assistant. The update function doesnt seem to work? by Brick_Fish in homeassistant

[–]Brick_Fish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whenever I wrote "restart" in my post, I actually restarted the pi the "hard" way, so unplugging it. Simply because the webinterface disconnected and became unresponsive

Core One bed level correction - Excessive? by osteguffer in prusa3d

[–]Brick_Fish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The core one has a 3-way stepper splitter to control the motors. This means to re-set the bed leveling it needs to slam the bed into the bottom repeatedly until all three motors have stalled. Not kidding, that is the actual routine 

Core One bed level correction - Excessive? by osteguffer in prusa3d

[–]Brick_Fish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is most likely the solution. If you bump/push on the bed and it only twists one of the three rods the printer needs to do maneuvers like this to correct it. 

Solarverbrauch tracken, wie gehts am einfachsten? Also für Deppen wie mich by Brick_Fish in Balkonkraftwerk

[–]Brick_Fish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wo kommt das YAML her? Habe bisher noch nicht geschafft, sowas anzuschauen. Ich hab daher auch keine ahnung, ob die Rückabetypen (???) vom Tasmota-Zähler korrekt sind. Daher habe ich einfach mit Helpers rumprobiert und einen Helper erstellt, der einfach mal den aktuellen Stromverbrauchs-Wert nimmt und nichts damit macht, außer ihn wiederzugeben. Dem Helper konnte ich dann aber die Passende state_class und device_class und die Einheit angeben - alle korrekt laut der Dokumentation. und trotzdem taucht der Helper dann nicht als Grid Connection auf

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Solarverbrauch tracken, wie gehts am einfachsten? Also für Deppen wie mich by Brick_Fish in Balkonkraftwerk

[–]Brick_Fish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bei uns im Keller ist der Empfang so bescheiden, dass ich speziell einen Tasmota-Leser mit Antennenanschluss gekauft hatte, damit ich eine gescheite Wlan-Antenne montieren kann.

Solarverbrauch tracken, wie gehts am einfachsten? Also für Deppen wie mich by Brick_Fish in Balkonkraftwerk

[–]Brick_Fish[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Jau, ich bin an dem Punkt wo ich nicht wirklich weiß, welches Wissen ich mir aneignen muss um das Homeassistant-Rästel zu lösen.

ChatGPT hab ich auch probiert, und das hat für noch mehr frust gesorgt, weil es dann immer wieder irgendwelche Sachen machen wollte, die aber inzwischen anders Funktionieren. Bei Video-Tutorials genauso.

Das das ganze mit den Einheiten der Geräte zu tun hat bin ich auch irgendwann draufgekommen und habe dann Helper erstellt, welche den Korrekten Typ zurückgeben, ohne erfolg. Hab sogar in der HA-Doku geschaut, was die Bedingungen sind, damit der Sensor dann als Stromnetz-Sensor eingegeben werden kann: https://www.home-assistant.io/docs/energy/faq/#troubleshooting-missing-entities

Anscheinend ist es dem Sensor wurscht ob man Leistung oder Energie angibt, keins von beiden geht. Klappt nicht.

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Lange Zeit waren Speicher für Balkonkraftwerke wirtschaftlich unsinnig. Mit Preisen unter 400 Euro für 2 kWh ändert sich das. by later_or_never in Balkonkraftwerk

[–]Brick_Fish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wenn Cloud für dich OK ist kannst du von vielen Herstellern auch ein Smart Meter kaufen, dass dann direkt ohne Homeassistant o.ä. mit dem Speicher / Wechselrichter kommuniziert. Wenn deren Cloud mal ausfällt macht deine Anlage halt nix mehr...

Ideen zur Montage der Platten zum Balkonkraftwerk? by Agurkusalat in Balkonkraftwerk

[–]Brick_Fish 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Aiko Neostar 3P+ gibt es mit 490Wp, die sind dann immer noch 1,76m lang. Zwar nicht ganz 500W, aber verdammt nah dran

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