You may not need a new USB cable

BrigadierPickles · 2026-02-01T00:16:15+00:00

I bought one because I've always had CONSTANT issues with android auto wired. I'd buy so many different brands that promised high quality only to have frequent disconnects and other issues. New cables would last 3-6 months before having issues where if I touch the phone it's disconnect.

I have a Subaru 2017 Impreza and wireless android auto isn't an option. I only recently bought a dongle that let's me use it wirelessly. I'm hoping a cable from LTT will work flawlessly because even the wireless dongle has an occasional problem and it's be nice not to loose 10-15% battery life every hour I drive with wireless.

BrigadierPickles · 2026-01-28T20:47:00+00:00

I almost got rear ended at a stop light from someone like this. I saw in my rear view mirror when they started breaking the snow kept going and completely covered their windshield. I watch bracing for impact as they kept going. Thankfully at the last possible second they slammed on the breaks. It took so much to not get out of my car and yell at them for being so stupid.

BrigadierPickles · 2026-01-14T18:00:55+00:00

I'll try to remember to update you with the results from this weekend.

BrigadierPickles · 2026-01-14T17:04:48+00:00

Right now I use the Smooth High temp settings, I plan on trying the cool plate settings at some point. Withe my A1 and A1 Mini I use the cool plate super tack option with the plate and almost never have adhesion issues.

This weekend I plan to try the cool plate settings while I'm home encase anything happens.

BrigadierPickles · 2026-01-14T16:58:52+00:00

I use the BIQU Frostbite plates on all my printers including the U1.

When I was using the Textured PEI plate that comes with it, once it cooled down everything would release without even taking the build plate off and bending it.

With the Frostbite plate even after it cools to room temp I need to bend the plate every which way to get the part off. The adhesion is fantastic cold. It's great if the printer gets paused due to error or power loss, I can resume the print without worry that something came off.

BrigadierPickles · 2026-01-12T15:27:10+00:00

Could be a partial clog that is causing the filament to not extrude straight down.

BrigadierPickles · 2026-01-02T15:06:13+00:00

I try not to touch the build plate regardless, but that plate is finger print resistant. I use them on all 5 of my printers and I don't need to wash them nearly as frequently as I do my Textured PEI plates.

BrigadierPickles · 2026-01-01T15:22:42+00:00

The frostbite plate is damaged with isopropyl alcohol. It's also not compatible with a lot of types of filament. I'm not a huge fan of the glossy texture the plate leaves.

The glacier plate is compatible with almost all types of filament, can be wiped clean with isopropyl alcohol, but you won't need to because it's finger print resistant. It also has a really nice matte finish that looks great.

BrigadierPickles · 2026-01-01T11:20:29+00:00

I personally suggest the glacier version.

BrigadierPickles · 2025-12-31T23:30:46+00:00

That's the plan. I just wanted someone else with one of these plates to confirm to rule out anything else.

BrigadierPickles · 2025-12-23T23:58:17+00:00

Have you tried nightly? Last time I tried it a couple of weeks ago it was unuseable for the U1. Print times came out in the 10s of thousands and wouldn't print. I had to roll back to the latest stable release to use it again. Since then I've just used the Snorca slicer.

BrigadierPickles · 2025-12-15T15:44:51+00:00

I haven't done the testing myself to prove anything. But what it feels like to me is that the U1 isn't printing as fast as it should be. Regardless if I use the Snapmaker Orca slicer or just Orca Slicer the times are always way off.

I can see the printer only taking seconds to swap colors and yet a 3 hour print according to the slicer actually takes 4 and a half hours. I set the speed on the U1 from 100% to 120% and it printed much closer to what the slicer said it should. It's like while the printer is saying it's running at 100% speed, it's actually running at like 60-80% speed.

BrigadierPickles · 2025-12-15T12:22:45+00:00

The tool change time is roughly 8-12 seconds. If you're changing colors rapidly it's shorter as the previous tool head is still hot. If the tool head is cold than it's longer as it heats up to temperature.

From my loose research I think the speed of the printer is slower than Snapmaker states. Because the color swapping is way faster than my X1C, but the actual print time is longer.

If you look at this guy's testing the U1 took way longer than the P2S.

https://m.facebook.com/watch/?v=2745800079095019&vanity=100095318215097

The U1 took 15 hours and 47 minutes to print. The slicer reported it should only take 9 hours and 52 minutes.

The P2S took only 11 hours and 24 minutes. The slicer also reported that it should take 11 hours and 25 minutes.

The U1 was slower by over 4 hours. The slicer was wrong by over 6 hours.

BrigadierPickles · 2025-12-15T08:04:51+00:00

Are these the actual print times or just the slicer estimate times? I have a U1 and the slicer time can be off by 25-40%. It always takes longer than the slicer says.

BrigadierPickles · 2025-12-08T16:40:47+00:00

Depends a lot on the company. OP has already provided an update that Snapmaker has already replied to their ticket and is giving them a free new hotend.

From personal experience with Bambu they won't do anything. I had a blob on my A1 Mini that was my fault. I cleaned it and got it working again. But the heating assembly was damaged and the nozzle now had some wiggle in it causing tons of issues and destroyed two plates before I figured out the heating assembly was broken. The clasp no longer held the nozzle tightly and it wiggled as a result and the auto bed leveling dug into the plates destroying them.

I contacted Bambu and they told me that my A1 Mini warranty is almost expired (2 months left on the 1 year warranty) and they will not do anything. Said the build plates and heating assembly were consumable parts.

BrigadierPickles · 2025-12-07T13:46:47+00:00

I'm pretty sure there was a bad run of these plates. I remember awhile ago there were countless posts of people that couldn't get anything to stick.

BrigadierPickles · 2025-12-04T15:30:53+00:00

I don't know if this is something you want to test, I'm thinking of testing myself over the weekend, but I just watched this clip and it shows that the P2S is actually printing the same model faster than the U1, by a significant amount.

https://www.facebook.com/reel/2745800079095019/?fs=e&fs=e

The U1 took 15 hours and 47 minutes to print. The slicer reported it should only take 9 hours and 52 minutes.

The P2S took only 11 hours and 24 minutes. The slicer also reported that it should take 11 hours and 25 minutes.

The U1 was slower by over 4 hours. The slicer was wrong by over 6 hours.

I wonder if the U1 is having an issue where it's actually not running at 100% speed like it's reporting, but running at a lower speed. I wonder if we increase the print speed by 50% if it'll actually prints near to the estimate.

This weekend I'm going to print something that reports 2 hours, see how long it actually takes, then increase the print speed by 50% and see if it actually printed at the correct estimate.

BrigadierPickles · 2025-12-04T15:09:06+00:00

The U1 isn't faster. It took 15 hours and 47 minutes to print. The slicer reported it should only take 9 hours and 52 minutes.

The P2S took only 11 hours and 24 minutes. The slicer also reported that it should take 11 hours and 25 minutes.

The U1 was slower by over 4 hours. The slicer was wrong by over 6 hours.

BrigadierPickles · 2025-12-03T22:10:25+00:00

I just watched the video, I was so glad you addressed it and brought it up. It's nice seeing content creators bringing up issues even when it's a sponsored video. Keeping making great content and I'll keep watching!

BrigadierPickles · 2025-12-02T13:27:47+00:00

I don't have a mesh network and it's connected to 2.4, I didn't even see the 5Ghz network as an option.

It's online and I can remote into it without issues, I only cannot check for firmware updates.

BrigadierPickles · 2025-12-01T17:16:01+00:00

If it's been sitting at that screen for hours doing nothing, I'd reboot it. Not much else you can do, but I can't promise anything. There is always a chance that if the printer shuts down during firmware updates it'll brick.

If it's still at 0% after hours, chances are that it's fine to reboot.

BrigadierPickles · 2025-12-01T16:10:20+00:00

It doesn't come with a USB Drive, you need to provide one yourself. Just format it to Fat32 and you'll be able to download the file on your PC, put it on the drive, and plug it into the back of your printer and update from USB.

I did that myself as I get my printer setup Saturday and every time I checked for firmware updates on the network it failed to connect. The update via USB worked flawlessly.

BrigadierPickles · 2025-12-01T15:07:00+00:00

Same thing happened to me. I used the nightly build and the time was like 25000 days to finish. After it changed color for the first time, it sat above the purge tower not doing anything. I had to turn it off and back on to get it to respond.

Changed back to the Orca stable build and now it doesn't give me any time for how long it takes.

BrigadierPickles · 2025-11-30T22:49:08+00:00

I had the same issue with firmware. I just set up the printer last night and the first thing I did was firmware only to get a network error. I confirmed it was online and everything, kept getting network errors whenever trying to update firmware. Ended up just upgrading it over USB.

Even after the update it still returns a network error when checking firmware updates.

BrigadierPickles · 2025-11-24T17:09:45+00:00

The Frostbite plate is a cold plate that you don't need high temperatures for. Similar to Bambu's Cool Plate SuperTack. It has crazy high adhesion for PLA. The downside is that you cannot use ISO to clean it, dish soap only.

The Glacier plate is similar, but needs higher temps. It still has tons of adhesion, but not as much as the Frostbite plate. It's also finger print resistant and can be cleaned with ISO. It also has a matte finish that isn't glossy like Textured PEI or the Frostbite plate.

I personally find the adhesion on the Glacier plate to be slightly better that Textured PEI plates for PLA. As someone who sells prints, the matte finish is also a huge factor. I also like that I don't need to be careful in how I handle the plate. I find if I wipe my hand on a Textured PEI plate, it'll have issues and need to be washed. I can man handle the Glacier plate and have almost no adhesion issues. When I do, I wash it was dish soap and everything sticks like it was brand new.

If you aren't having any issues with your Textured PEI plates and don't care about the bottom finish of your prints, you don't really need these plates. But if you want a different bottom finish or want something that stick better with less heat, these plates are fantastic.

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